Hello, hello! This poor little blog has been very quiet lately, with me being very busy testing my new pattern and working on a couple of freelance jobs. But today is the day that I finally get back into the blogging routine (well that's the plan, at least). As I have so many tutorials to share with you and it's about time that I get going again!
In my last post, I showed you how to draft a bodice block to your own measurements, and today I'd like to show you how to relocate the darts, using the 'Cut and Spread technique.'
I would suggest making a toile of your bodice block before making any adjustments to your pattern. You can use this guide to making a toile, if you are not sure where to start. It's important that you get the fit right before you start making adjustments to your pattern.
Choose the new dart position
Have a think about where you would like to move your dart/s to. In the image above you can see some suggestions about where you could move them to on the front bodice.
Move the dart
Trace a copy of your bodice block pattern (it is always good to leave your original pattern as a master copy) without seam allowance.
1. Draw a line where you would like your new dart to be placed. The dart point will need to be at the same point as the original dart.
2. Cut along the new dart line and one of the dart arms (the one closest to the new dart) from the edge of the pattern towards the dart point. Don't cut all the way to the dart point - leave a small 1-2mm "hinge" to keep the two pieces together.
3. You will now be able to move the shoulder section of the pattern, using the small hinge you created in Step 2.
4. Close out the original dart by aligning the cut dart arm with the other dart arm from the original dart arm. In the example, you will see that by closing the shoulder dart you have opened a new dart in the armhole. Use tape to close the dart permanently.
To complete the pattern you will need to add shaping to the dart, add a drill hole 1.2cm - 1.5cm from the tip of the dart and then add seam allowance. And voila. You moved a dart!
There is another way of moving darts - which is called the 'pivot technique,' that I will show you next time.
Until then, happy drafting (and sewing)!
