How to draft a lining for a pleated skirt.

THE Q & A SERIES

DRAFT A LINING FOR THE PEPPERMINT PLEATED SKIRT

Hi Emily,

I have a short question for you. I would like to add a lining to the Peppermint Pleated skirt and I’m wondering whether I should make an A-line lining based on the pleated outer skirt, or pleat the lining as well.

What would you do? Looking forward to your reply.

Many thanks in advance!
Kind regards,

Marjon

Hi Marjon,

Great question! In the last two issues of Curated by ITF, we've been exploring all things linings.

When creating a lining, you want to replicate the shape of the original pattern while creating the simplest pattern possible. So, we’ll often remove decorative elements like seam lines and pocket pieces etc, and this includes pleats.

Removing the pleats in the lining not only makes it easier to sew, but also helps to avoid bulk in the waist seam and throughout the body. So, an A-line skirt, as you suggested, is a great idea!

There are a few different methods to create the skirt lining pattern.

HOW TO DRAFT AN A-LINE SKIRT LINING

If your pattern is complex with lots of pleats or details, you may find it easiest to draft an A-line skirt from scratch (or use a pattern/block you already have). You can find information about drafting a skirt block here and how to turn it into an a-line skirt pattern here.

When using this method, make sure that:

The top of the lining is the same length as the top of the original pattern (once pleated), as they will sew into the same seam or waistband. You can use this measurement rather than your waist measurement when drafting the skirt block.
The hem width is similar or less than the original pattern, and you have enough space when walking.
The lining is shorter than the original so it is hidden.

As there aren’t too many pleats in the pleated skirt pattern you’re using, you can use the pattern as a base and remove the pleat volume, which I’ll demonstrate in today’s tutorial.

HOW TO DRAFT A LINING FOR THE PEPPERMINT PLEATED SKIRT

Step 1

Place the pocket bag behind the front piece using the notches to guide you. We’ll treat this piece as one going forward, as the lining will sit behind the pocket.

Step 2

Trace the front and back patterns without seam allowance, including the notches and pleats.

Step 3

Draw a line from either side of each pleat to the hem.

Step 4

On the front, starting at the top edge, cut down one of the lines until you are 1-2mm from the hem to create a hinge.

Tip - If your pattern isn’t cut out, you’ll also need to cut from the bottom of the paper and stop 1-2mm before you reach the other side of the hem, to allow the paper to move.

Step 5

Overlap the pattern at the top to remove the pleat volume and tape in place.

Step 6

Repeat for the rest of the pleats.

Step 7

Lay some paper on top and trace the pattern, including any notches. You can redraw the grainline parallel to the CENTRE FRONT.

Step 8

Remove 2.5cm (1in) from the hem. This will prevent the lining from showing below the hem. You could consider making the lining shorter if you like.

Step 9

Repeat process for the BACK. Remove the same amount from the hem on the BACK as you have on the FRONT.

Step 10

Check the seams match and flow together nicely and then add seam allowance.

If your fabric is wide enough, you can remove the centre back and centre front seams and place the patterns on the fold to remove any excess bulk.

Step 11

Label the pattern pieces with the new cutting instructions - Cut 1 pair lining.

Fun fact to up your patternmaking game…
In industry cutting instructions on lining patterns are written in green pen / marker so that lining pieces can be quickly and easily identified.

I hope you enjoy this tutorial and it helps you get the outcome you’re hoping for!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of October to get part one of our Sewing Linings Series, the Sewing linings Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.
The Peppermint Pleated skirt pattern can be found here.
Drafting a skirt block - tutorial here.
How to use the cut & spread technique to draft an A-line skirt - tutorial here.