ISSUE 182 - HOW TO SEW A back-to-front WRAP TOP

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO SEW A reverse WRAP TOP

Hi! 

First thank you so much for all your tutorials!

I want to make a Peppermint Wrap top but I would like it to be reversible (worn with the back in the front if I make sense). Do you think the pattern is already reversible as is or should I make some alterations ? (To the neck line maybe?)

Thanks a lot!

Clara

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Hi Clara,

This might seem a strange place to start with an answer, but bear with me… In a meeting this week, we were chatting about necklines, and how they are usually lower at the front than they are at the back. This then led to how our kids often put their shirts on back-to-front and how the tell-tale sign is that the neckline at the front sits much too high, but even though it appears to be choking them, they don’t seem to notice or care. (We’re all mums, so these kinds of discussions aren’t unusual. Ha!)

Which brings me to the start of my answer to your question…

Yes, you’re right, one of the problems you’ll run into with reversing the  Peppermint Wrap top is that the neckline at the back will be higher. And while you may be able to get away with it, keep in mind that it also has bust darts, which you may not like having on your back.

If you really want a top that has the wrap section at the back, what I’d suggest you do is draft something specifically for this purpose. That way you’ll get your bust darts where you need them and the correct neckline shape. 

HOW TO DRAFT & SEW A reverse WRAP TOP

Rather than using the Peppermint Wrap top as the base, I suggest you start with the Peppermint Ruffle sleeve top. The reason for this is that the wrap has altered the shape of the front of the wrap top and it’s difficult to reverse if you haven’t got much patternmaking knowledge (and I like to write these tutorials so that they appeal to makers of all levels). If we start with the Peppermint Ruffle sleeve top, we have a more solid base that requires less tweaking to get started.

Step 1

You will need the Ruffle sleeve top BACK and the Wrap top FRONT. We will be taking the wrap section from the Wrap top and transferring it onto the Ruffle sleeve top. You will need to flip one of the pieces so they line up correctly (i.e. the armholes are on the same side).

Step 2

Place the Ruffle sleeve top BACK onto the Wrap top FRONT, lining up the high shoulder point STITCH LINE (the point where the shoulder line meets the neckline) and making sure the grainlines are parallel. Pin or glue in place.

Step 3

Trace the neckline STITCH LINE and CUT LINE from the Wrap top onto the Ruffle sleeve top.

Step 4

We now need to blend the hems. I decided to keep the length of the Ruffle sleeve top, so I have drawn a curve that blends from the side seam on the Ruffle sleeve top to the tie section of the Wrap top.

Step 5

Add hem allowance. This should be the same amount that is on the Wrap top, which is 1.2cm (1/2in).

Step 6

Cut along the new lines, removing the excess paper. Cut along the Ruffle sleeve top shoulder line, armhole and side seam. We have now created the new BACK pattern pieces.

You could use the FRONT of the pattern as it is, but from your question it sounded like you liked the idea of the round neckline that you would get by turning the Wrap top back-to-front.

Step 7

Stick some paper behind the neckline of the FRONT Ruffle sleeve top. Extend the CENTRE FRONT up onto the paper and redraw the neckline as a smooth curve. The neckline needs to meet the CENTRE FRONT at a right angle.

Step 8

Add 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to the neckline. You will notice that the neckline on the BACK has a different seam allowance (1.2cm (1/2in)). This is due to the construction method used on the Wrap top neckline and wrap.

Alter the hem line to match the BACK - changing it to 1.2cm (1/2in).

Step 9

Cut off excess paper by cutting through the new CUT LINES at the neckline, hem and CENTRE FRONT.

Step 10

The back neckline on the Wrap top is finished with a facing, so we will need to draft one for our FRONT. It is helpful to refer to the facing piece while drafting the new one.

Place a piece of pattern paper over the neckline of the FRONT. Trace the neckline, CENTRE FRONT and shoulder. Make the facing 5cm (2in) wide. Add seam allowance to correspond with the original piece - 1cm (3/8in) at the neckline and 6mm (1/4in) at the shoulder (this is much smaller than what would be used on a shoulder and is due to the construction method used for the top that is sewn with French seams).

Step 11

Complete the pattern by taking the WAIST TIE from the Wrap top. You will need to use the SLEEVE from the Ruffle Sleeve top to correspond with the armholes we used. If you would prefer the length / style of the Wrap top SLEEVE, you can transfer this from one to the other by laying the pieces on top of each other. 

To construct the top, follow the instructions from the Wrap top, swapping the FRONT and BACK.

I hope you have fun making yourself a back-to-front wrap top!

Happy patternmaking and sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Peppermint Wrap top pattern can be found here.

• The Peppermint Ruffle sleeve top pattern can be found here.

• More In the Folds patternmaking tutorials can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Collins top made by @allysondykhuizen

Peppermint wrap top made by @suzannemade

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 181 - HOW TO DRAFT A LINING FOR THE PEPPERMINT PLEATED SKIRT

THE Q & A SERIES

DRAFT A LINING FOR THE PEPPERMINT PLEATED SKIRT

Hi Emily,

I have a short question for you. I would like to add a lining to the Peppermint Pleated skirt and I’m wondering whether I should make an A-line lining based on the pleated outer skirt, or pleat the lining as well.

What would you do? Looking forward to your reply.

Many thanks in advance!
Kind regards,

Marjon

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Hi Marjon,

Great question! In the last two issues of Curated by ITF, we've been exploring all things linings. 

When creating a lining, you want to replicate the shape of the original pattern while creating the simplest pattern possible. So, we’ll often remove decorative elements like seam lines and pocket pieces etc, and this includes pleats.

Removing the pleats in the lining not only makes it easier to sew, but also helps to avoid bulk in the waist seam and throughout the body. So, an A-line skirt, as you suggested, is a great idea!

There are a few different methods to create the skirt lining pattern.

HOW TO DRAFT AN A-LINE SKIRT LINING

If your pattern is complex with lots of pleats or details, you may find it easiest to draft an A-line skirt from scratch (or use a pattern/block you already have). You can find information about drafting a skirt block here and how to turn it into an a-line skirt pattern here.

When using this method, make sure that: 

• The top of the lining is the same length as the top of the original pattern (once pleated), as they will sew into the same seam or waistband. You can use this measurement rather than your waist measurement when drafting the skirt block.

• The hem width is similar or less than the original pattern, and you have enough space when walking.

• The lining is shorter than the original so it is hidden. 

As there aren’t too many pleats in the pleated skirt pattern you’re using, you can use the pattern as a base and remove the pleat volume, which I’ll demonstrate in today’s tutorial.

HOW TO DRAFT A LINING FOR THE PEPPERMINT PLEATED SKIRT

Step 1

Place the pocket bag behind the front piece using the notches to guide you. We’ll treat this piece as one going forward, as the lining will sit behind the pocket.

Step 2

Trace the front and back patterns without seam allowance, including the notches and pleats.

Step 3

Draw a line from either side of each pleat to the hem.

Step 4

On the front, starting at the top edge, cut down one of the lines until you are 1-2mm from the hem to create a hinge.

Tip - If your pattern isn’t cut out, you’ll also need to cut from the bottom of the paper and stop 1-2mm before you reach the other side of the hem, to allow the paper to move.

Step 5

Overlap the pattern at the top to remove the pleat volume and tape in place.

Step 6

Repeat for the rest of the pleats.

Step 7

Lay some paper on top and trace the pattern, including any notches. You can redraw the grainline parallel to the CENTRE FRONT.

Step 8

Remove 2.5cm (1in) from the hem. This will prevent the lining from showing below the hem. You could consider making the lining shorter if you like.

Step 9

Repeat process for the BACK. Remove the same amount from the hem on the BACK as you have on the FRONT.

Step 10

Check the seams match and flow together nicely and then add seam allowance. 

If your fabric is wide enough, you can remove the centre back and centre front seams and place the patterns on the fold to remove any excess bulk.

Step 11

Label the pattern pieces with the new cutting instructions - Cut 1 pair lining.

Fun fact to up your patternmaking game…
In industry cutting instructions on lining patterns are written in green pen / marker so that lining pieces can be quickly and easily identified.

I hope you enjoy this tutorial and it helps you get the outcome you’re hoping for!

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of October to get part one of our Sewing Linings Series, the Sewing linings Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

• The Peppermint Pleated skirt pattern can be found here.

• Drafting a skirt block - tutorial here.

• How to use the cut & spread technique to draft an A-line skirt - tutorial here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Ormond chore coat made by @tandarady

Acton dress made by @erincharter

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 179 - How to line the Collins top

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO LINE THE COLLINS TOP

How do I line a garment? I'm new to sewing, and recently bought the Collins top pattern, but the fabric I bought for it ended up being a bit more sheer than I would feel comfortable wearing.  Do I double up fabric and sew as indicated in the pattern, or can I make this pattern reversible?

Emma

Davis, US

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Hi Emma,

The situation you find yourself in is such a common one! I can certainly relate to falling in love with a fabric, only to find that it needs to be lined, except the pattern I want to use doesn’t include a lining. It’s a bit annoying! 

Thankfully, as sewists who are focused on learning new skills (like patternmaking) we’re not limited to what a pattern provides. 

four ways to line the collins top

When it comes to lining the Collins top specifically, you have a couple of options. 

OPTION ONE: UNDERLINING 

Underlining a garment is the simplest way to stop a fabric from being see-through.

What is underlining?

Underlining is a technique in which a second layer of fabric is cut and sewn together with the outer fabric pieces before the garment is constructed. Unlike a traditional lining (which is a separate layer added after the main garment is assembled), underlining is treated as one with the outer fabric when the garment is constructed. 

You may choose to underline the entire garment, or just part of it. For example, you may decide to only underline the sleeves in a jacket or coat so it is easy to slide the garment on and off.

In the case of the Collins top, you may choose to underline the front and back pieces only and leave the sleeves unlined. A great example of this is when sewing with broderie anglaise. You might leave the sleeves unlined to show off the cut-outs in the fabric, but line the bodice.

OPTION TWO: CREATE A LINING PATTERN 

The next option is to create a separate lining pattern for the garment, which is drafted using the original pattern as a base.

How to create a lining pattern for a garment

To start, it’s a good idea to remove any seams you can. In the case of the Collins top, this means removing the panel lines. 

To do this, place the pieces together with STITCH LINE on STITCH LINE and trace a copy. Make sure to trace all the important markings such as the grainline and notches.

Some panel lines cannot be removed. For example, the sleeve panel seams create shaping through the shoulder so they cannot be removed. 

However, if you want to minimise bulk, you could consider combining the pieces and using darts to create the shaping instead of panel lines.

Consider how you would like the lining to join to the outer garment. In the case of a top or dress, this means considering how the two will meet at the neckline.

OPTION THREE: LINING A GARMENT ‘EDGE TO EDGE’

Lining ‘edge to edge’ refers to a garment construction technique where the lining is sewn directly to the outer fabric along the edges, such that the lining reaches and is attached to the very edge of the garment, rather than being connected to a facing. 

This method is often used if the main fabric (fabric that the garment is made in) is bulky or scratchy. By removing the facings, the main fabric will not touch the skin. It is also a good option for sheer fabrics where you don't want to see a facing or seam through the outer fabric. You can also use this method if you would like a quicker method of lining a garment, as it removes the need to draft a lining pattern and the time it takes to attach the facings.

With this option, you may consider adding interfacing to the neckline and armholes (for sleeveless styles) to prevent stretching. If the pattern has facing pieces, you can use these as the pattern pieces for cutting interfacing. Alternatively, trace the armhole / neckline shape and then cut 5cm (2in) width of interfacing as if you were drafting a facing.

If you would like to use this method, you can use the pattern to cut the lining pieces without drafting a new lining pattern.

OPTION FOUR: ATTACH A LINING TO FACINGS

Attaching the lining to a facing or multiple facings can give the inside a clean and professional look. It also has the added bonus of providing extra structure in areas that are prone to stretching, such as necklines and armholes, which can maintain the garment's shape over time.

Facings help to prevent the lining rolling to the other side, ensuring the garment stays in place and the lining is not visible from the outside.

If you’re interested in learning how to draft a facing for the Collins top, we wrote a post about it here for another Emma. If you would like to draft a neck facing only (which is what we’d suggest you do for the neckline on the Collins top) you can find instructions in the Drafting Linings Skills Kit.

Additional tips for sewing a lining for the Collins top

Alter the hem length.

The hem of the lining needs to be shorter than the outer so that it doesn’t extend beyond the hem. When drafting a lining pattern, shorten the lining by 2.5cm (1in) from the hem.

The other thing to keep in mind when sewing a lining for the Collins top is that the pattern has a high-low hem. This means that you may be able to see the inside of the back of the garment when it is worn. So keep this in mind when choosing the best option for the fabric you are working with.

CAN YOU MAKE THE COLLINS TOP REVERSIBLE?

The idea of a reversible Collins top is very interesting! We haven’t got any resources about making a garment reversible at this stage, so thought we’d link to this great post which covers the things to consider if it’s a project you’re keen to have a crack at.

One thing to consider with making it reversible is how the closure at the neckline will work. In the case of the Collins top, which has a button and loop closure at the centre back, you could consider two buttons, one on the inside and one on the outside. Be sure to choose nice flat buttons so they don’t create bulk. The other option is to remove the closure altogether. Some makers have chosen to do this and haven’t had any problems getting the top on or off. As always, I recommend making a toile to check it works for you!

Happy patternmaking,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Collins top pattern can be found here.

• The Stow dress pattern can be found here.

• How to draft a facing - tutorial can be found here.

• Seamwork article - Make it reversible - can be found here.

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of September to get part one of our Sewing Linings Series, the Drafting Linings Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Sawtell dress made by @sarahissewcrafty

Peppermint wrap skirt made by @laura_made_this

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 178 - HOW TO DRAFT A SKIRT LINING FOR THE ACTON DRESS

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO DRAFT A SKIRT LINING FOR THE ACTON DRESS

Hi Emily,

If one would want to add a lining to the skirt, how should the pocket construction go? (in reference to the Acton dress).

Giulia

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Hi Giulia,

We thought this would be a great question to answer this week as we just released the first instalment of our two-part Sewing Linings Series. I’ll give you a few pointers on how to draft the lining pattern for the Acton dress, but if you want more help with drafting and sewing linings, I recommend you join our Curated by ITF subscription!

When it comes to pockets, you actually don’t need to worry about them in relation to the lining. The pocket will be sandwiched between the outer fabric and the lining.

Construct the dress and pockets as usual and then attach the lining, making sure you don’t attach the lining to the skirt.

One thing that you may do differently is leave the seams raw. When it comes to the linings, if your fabric doesn’t fray too much then you can leave the seams unfinished too.

The Acton dress design includes a number of panels in the skirt. To draft a lining, we begin by removing the panel lines from the pattern.

5 reasons to remove panel lines from a lining pattern

1. Removing panel lines reduces the number of pieces you need to sew together, simplifying the

   construction process and the time it takes to assemble the lining. Fewer seams also means less chance of errors or misalignment during construction.

2. Eliminates unnecessary seams, reducing bulk and potential discomfort. Seam allowances add bulk, and fewer seams mean a smoother, more comfortable lining against the skin.

3. Every seam is a potential weak point that can experience stress and wear over time. By reducing the number of seams, you minimise the areas where the lining could potentially tear or fray.

4. A lining with fewer seams allows the outer fabric to drape more naturally and smoothly, without the interruption of seam lines.

5. Fewer seams create a cleaner, more polished look inside the garment. This is particularly important for high-end or tailored pieces where attention to detail is crucial.

WHY IS THE LINING ON SKIRTS LEFT UNATTACHED TO THE OUTER SKIRT?

There are several very good reasons why the skirt linings are usually left unattached to the hem of outer skirt:

• Independent movement - Leaving the lining to hang freely allows it to move independently of the outer skirt. This prevents restriction and ensures that both layers can flow naturally, enhancing comfort and ease of movement.

• Avoiding constriction - If the lining were attached to the hem, it could constrict the outer fabric, causing awkward bunching, pulling, or riding up as you move.

• Smooth silhouette - Attaching the lining to the outer hem can create bulk at the bottom of the skirt, disrupting the smooth silhouette and clean lines of the garment. An unattached lining maintains a sleek appearance.

• Facilitates alterations - If alterations are needed, having an unattached lining makes it easier to adjust either the outer skirt or the lining independently without affecting the other layer.

• Enhanced breathability - An unattached lining can enhance breathability, as it allows for better air circulation between the layers, contributing to overall comfort.

HOW TO DRAFT A SKIRT LINING FOR THE ACTON DRESS

Step 1

To get started, trace a copy of your skirt pattern and remove any panel lines or unnecessary design details. If the panel lines provide shaping, transform the panel line into a dart or tuck. Be sure to transfer any notches from the pattern onto the lining pattern.

Step 2

Alter the length for the lining. A skirt lining is typically left unattached (not joined to the hem) from the outer skirt hem. This means that the lining pattern needs to be shorter than the outer skirt so that the lining cannot be seen when the skirt is worn.

We recommend shortening the length by 2.5cm (1in). The length should be taken from the hem (not from within the pattern piece as you do when removing length for variation in height between your measurements and the pattern).

Step 3

Add seam allowance to the pattern.

Step 4

Finalise the pattern by adding a grainline and cutting instructions. It's also a good idea to label the CENTRE FRONT and CENTRE BACK.

Industry tip! Cutting instructions on lining patterns are written in green pen / marker so that lining pieces can be quickly and easily identified.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Acton dress pattern can be found here.

• The Acton dress sew-along can be found here.

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of September to get part one of our Sewing Linings Series, the Drafting Linings Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Sawtell dress made by @sarahissewcrafty

Collins top made by @megmadesewing

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 177 -HOW TO SLIM DOWN THE WIDE LEG PANTS PATTERN

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO SLIM DOWN THE PEPPERMINT WIDE LEG PANTS PATTERN

Hi Emily,

I had a question about the Peppermint Wide Leg pants. 

They are drafted straight from the hip. If I wanted them to narrow around the thigh and be straight from there down, how would one do that? Might be too complex to tackle, but thought I'd ask!!

(Also, I'm just 2 seams from finishing my first Flynn jacket and I wanted to tell you this much. I completely love and appreciate that pattern and instructions!!! It is probably my favourite pattern to date.)

Nina

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Hi Nina,

I have a pair of jeans that I made from this pattern and I also made the exact alteration you are planning to make! 

I found the easiest way to get the leg shape I wanted was to first make a toile in calico. So, here’s my tips!

TIPS FOR SLIMMING THE LEG OF THE PEPPERMINT WIDE LEG PANTS PATTERN

• I recommend you make the toile with a long stitch length in a contrasting colour so you can easily see and unpick seams needed.

• Don't bother putting in the zip.

• Just cut one set of waist band pieces so you can pin the pants closed and get them to sit in the correct position on your waist. 

• Put the pants on inside out so you can see the stitch lines. (This is where the contrasting thread is useful!) Play with the seams until you figure out how much you want to take off the side seams and inner leg seams. With the toile on, use a marker to mark directly onto the fabric. (Alternatively, you could use pins to hold in place, but sometimes this can be a little painful when you’re wearing the toile and fitting on yourself!)

• When you take off the pants, use a ruler and marker to mark in your new stitch lines. You will need to unpick the crotch seam either side of the inner leg seam to make any alterations to that seam. 

• Stitch along the new lines (again with a long stitch length in case you need to unpick them again), and try them on again. Continue this process until you are happy with the shape. 

• If you have a number of stitch lines by the end, take a coloured marker and trace along the stitch lines to mark the new stitch line on the fabric. 

• Unpick the pants so you have the front and back piece and then transfer the changes back to the pattern. 

• It is likely that you will need to skim off some of the pocket pieces at the side seam, so be sure to transfer the shape of your new pattern piece to the pockets too.

And that’s it! Sometimes, making changes to a pattern can take a little time when you do a toile, but in my experience toiling is never something to be regretted.

If you’d like to continue learning more about sewing pants, I highly recommend our very popular Pants Making Series, which the Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants pattern and Fit Kit, plus the Pants Design Kit.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Peppermint Wide Leg pants pattern can be found here.

• The Pants Making Series can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Acton dress made by @crafty_enthusiast

Sleeveless Flynn jacket made by @damselfly.ca

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 175 - HOW TO FIGURE OUT FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO FIGURE OUT FABRIC REQUIREMENTS WHEN COPYING READY-TO-WEAR

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Many sewists are used to working with sewing patterns that tell them everything they need to make a garment. Construction method, notions, sizing, fabric requirements… Everything is covered in explicit detail and you just need to follow the instructions.

But what about when you’re copying a ready-to-wear garment? 

Or if you’re doing a major hack to a pattern in your stash?

How do you know how much fabric to buy!?

It’s a question we get asked a lot!

We’ve been so excited to see our Curated by ITF members diving into the resources from our Copy Your Clothes series and learning how to copy ready-to-wear garments that they love and can’t bear to part with. And while many of them have been using fabric from their stash to learn these new skills (which we applaud, btw!), we figured it would be helpful to know what to do if they do want to head to a fabric store (because it’s inevitable, right?).

HOW TO FIGURE OUT FABRIC REQUIREMENTS WHEN COPYING A READY-TO-WEAR GARMENT

The following methods can be used when copying a ready-to-wear garment or when pattern hacking. 

Method 1 - Measure each pattern piece loosely and calculate the required fabric. 

Take the pattern pieces and loosely measure them as if they were rectangles. To do this, measure the longest and widest points. As you can see in the example we have given a little extra in both width and length, just to be safe. Remember to keep things straight and the right way up, as this is how the pieces will be cut on the fabric. Take note of the dimensions of each piece.

Consider the width of the fabric you are buying. Common fabric widths are 115cm (45in) and 150cm (60in), although there is a lot of variation, so be sure to check.

For the example, our FRONT [1] piece measures 37cm (14½in) wide and 140cm (55⅛in) long. Our BACK [2] measures 45cm (17¾in) wide and 140cm (55⅛in) long. We will need to cut a pair of each.

For a fabric width of 115cm (45in) we will need to cut the pieces one on top of the other (lengthways), as we won't be able to cut more than 2 pieces for the width (2 fronts = 74cm (29⅛in) and 2 backs = 90cm (35½).

For a fabric width of 150cm (60in), we will have more room to play (see image below). We could cut a pair of backs and a front on the width - leaving one front to cut. This does mean you will need a similar length of fabric, but you will have more fabric to spare from the 150cm (60in) width, which you could use for another project. Remember, this example does not include any additional pieces, such as facings and pockets. See cutting plan examples on the following page. (See image below.)

Remember, fabric may shrink a little during pre-washing, so consider getting a little bit more fabric to account for this.

Method 2 - Create a tape mockup of your fabric width on your floor

Take some masking tape and tape a line on the floor / table the width of the fabric you are considering using. 

Lay out the pattern pieces, ensuring they fit within the fabric width. Take a tape measure and measure the length of your mock cutting plan.

Remember, fabric may shrink a little during pre-washing, so consider getting a little bit more fabric to account for this.

I usually use the second method, and place a tape measure so I can quickly move the pieces around and calculate the total. 

The example below is as if the fabric is on the fold. Always make sure you read the pattern labels so you know if you need to cut 1 pair or cut 1 on fold etc.

Whether it’s with copying your ready-to-wear garments or hacking patterns, I hope this helps you on your sewing journey!

Happy patternmaking,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of July to get part two of our Copy Your Clothes Series, the Make it your own Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Flynn jacket made by @thecrookedhem

Acton dress made by @sewbee73

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 174 - HOW TO ALTER A DROPPED SHOULDER TO A SET-IN SLEEVE

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO ALTER A DROPPED SHOULDER TO A SET-IN SLEEVE

I prefer fitted button down shirts, but the trend for women's shirts right now tends to be ‘oversized’ with the shoulder hitting in the middle of the bicep instead of the top of the shoulder. Is it possible to buy one of those patterns and change where the shoulder hits? And if it is, how does that affect the rest of the pattern, especially the sleeves? 

Thanks for your help.

Sage
Toronto, Canada

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Hi Sage,

We had a few community members with this exact question when we released the Marden shirt, so I thought it was a good one to answer.

Your question touches on two things:

1. The difference between a dropped shoulder sleeve and a set-in sleeve

2. What these two sleeve types have to do with the overall fit of a shirt.

So let’s dive in!

the difference between a set-in sleeve and a dropped shoulder sleeve

Our Cartwright dress and top pattern has a set-in sleeve, while our Marden shirt pattern has a dropped shoulder.

Set-in Sleeve

• Construction - The sleeve is sewn into the armhole, aligning with the natural shoulder line.

• Fit - More fitted and structured, following the natural contours of the shoulder and arm.

• Appearance - Provides a tailored, polished look, as the sleeve cap fits snugly around the shoulder.

• Use - Common in more formal and tailored garments, such as blazers, dress shirts, and fitted tops.

Dropped shoulder

• Construction - The shoulder seam extends beyond the natural shoulder line, often ending halfway down the upper arm.

• Fit - Looser and more relaxed, giving a casual and oversized look.

• Appearance - The sleeve is attached lower on the arm, creating a slouchy, laid-back silhouette.

• Use - Frequently seen in casual and oversized clothing, such as sweatshirts and t-shirts.

Due to how far the shoulder seam extends beyond the shoulder, the dropped shoulder has a boxier fit.

Above is a comparison of the front pattern pieces. 

As you can see, the dropped shoulder pattern on the right is much boxier. The shoulder seam in our Marden pattern is longer and curved, although this isn’t always the case for dropped shoulder patterns. It can be straight, depending on the fabric it will be made of and the design. The side seam is straight and the armhole is much smaller.

The sleeve required for a dropped shoulder (on the right) has a much lower sleeve cap as it doesn’t need to reach the shoulder. From the bicep line down there is not a huge difference. 

In the case of these specific patterns, the Marden shirt sleeve is more tapered to accommodate the cuff.

Is it possible to buy a dropped shoulder pattern and change where the shoulder seam hits?

The answer is yes, you can definitely purchase one of these patterns with a dropped shoulder and alter the pattern. And we love that you’re considering pattern hacking! Adding these types of skills to your repertoire opens up a whole new world of opportunities when you’re sewing, and it’s what we’re all about at In the Folds.

However, drafting a set-in sleeve from a dropped shoulder sleeve pattern is quite complicated and I wouldn’t suggest you try this.

Instead, if you like elements of a dropped shoulder pattern, but you don’t like the dropped shoulder part, here’s what I recommend. Rather than remove the dropped shoulder sleeve, mash the two patterns together so you can take the elements from each pattern that you want. 

This will be MUCH simpler than trying to draft a set-in sleeve from a dropped shoulder sleeve. The other way around is manageable, but going back is much more difficult.

Below is a step-by-step tutorial of how to do this with the Marden and Cartwright patterns.

How to remove a dropped shoulder from a pattern

For this tutorial I will be transferring the set-in sleeve from the Cartwright dress over to the Marden shirt.

Step 1

To begin, we need to check we have the CENTRE FRONT marked on both patterns. This will give us a point to match across both patterns. 

Due to the button placket on the Marden shirt, to mark the CENTRE FRONT we need to add to the FRONT pattern piece half the width of the button placket, as the CENTRE FRONT on a button-up shirt is in the middle of the placket where the buttons are placed.

Step 2

Transfer the neckline from the Marden shirt to the Cartwright dress. This will allow us to attach the Marden collar pieces to this altered pattern.

Place one pattern piece on top of the other, lining up the CENTRE FRONTS. Slide the pattern that’s on top up or down until the STITCH LINES at the shoulder (where it intersects with the neckline) line up. Hold in place with a pattern weight.

Step 3

Slide some pattern paper under the neckline of the pattern you are altering and stick in place. Trace the neckline onto the paper. 

In this case you will see that we have to trace part of the shoulder seam as well. This is because the Cartwright dress has a lower neckline than the Marden.

Step 4

Trace the seam line down the CENTRE FRONT. This means you will be able to attach the placket (sometimes called a button band) from the dropped shoulder pattern to the more fitted pattern.

Step 5

Transfer any other details from the dropped shoulder pattern onto the more fitted pattern. In this case we need to trace the horizontal seam from the Marden shirt onto the Cartwright dress.

Step 6

The lower panel on the Marden shirt would also need to have the width reduced so it matches the new more fitted version of the pattern. 

Line up the STITCH LINE on the LOWER PANEL with the horizontal seam line marked on the altered pattern. By lining up the side seam STITCH LINE we can just remove the width from the CENTRE FRONT area.

Step 7

Complete the pattern by repeating the process on the back and reflecting the changes onto any other pattern pieces that are impacted. 

In the case of this example, we would also need to alter the LOWER BACK PANEL and the hem facing pieces. Once those pieces are altered we can then use the collar pieces, sleeve, placket, cuff and button placket from the Marden shirt pattern.

Step 8

When the pattern is complete, be sure to make a toile to check you are happy with the fit.

If altering patterns to better suit your preferences is something you have been hoping to learn, this month’s issue of Curated by ITF might be the one for you!

Happy drafting,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of July to get part two of our Copy Your Clothes Series, the Make it your own Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

• The Cartwright dress and top pattern can be found here.

• The Marden shirt pattern can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Acton dress made by @annamadeitmn

Hacked Peppermint peplum top made by @_rubysthreads_

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 173 - OUR FAVOURITE PATTERNMAKING & GRADING RESOURCES

THE Q & A SERIES

OUR FAVOURITE PATTERNMAKING & GRADING RESOURCES

Hello Emily,

I am a fan of your pattern drafting tutorials and as an aspiring pattern cutter. I would like to know what books you recommend for pattern cutting and grading. I’m American, but I live in Madrid, Spain (my husband is Spanish) and I have been taking an industrial pattern cutting course here. I love the technical part of it, but unfortunately, I find the course really lacking in a lot of information so I have been trying to find good reference books or technical online courses to help fill in the gaps. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much for all of the information you provide on making patterns. It is so helpful and I haven’t found another website that offers such clear and useful tutorials about the technical side of pattern drafting.

All the best,
Marlena

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Hi Marlena,

I am pleased to hear you are enjoying our tutorials! And, great to hear you are doing a patternmaking course. I really think this is the best way to learn, as it gives you a foundation to work from. It makes it a lot easier to look at books or resources and know whether they are worth using.

I don't use patternmaking books that often, but the main one I refer to is the one that we were told to buy for university - Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong. The book has a good foundation on many patternmaking techniques and is a great place to start. Some of the drafts seem a overly complicated for the techniques being achieved, but with a bit of knowledge under your belt, you should be able to discern that. 

I have since purchased Metric Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich and I find this one a bit easier to follow. It’s a small book, but it has a lot of information in it! 

Helen Armstrong’s book covers more of the basics and leaves less up to you to work out yourself, while Aldrich’s book is great if you already feel confident with basic pattern making principles like slash and spread.

I don't think the Armstrong book has anything about grading in it, but the Aldrich one has a little. I feel that in general, there is very limited information about grading available. We did it for just one patternmaking class in my whole fashion degree! If you would like to understand the basics of grading you can check out this tutorial. And we’re going into more depth in next month’s issue of Curated by ITF, with the Make It Your Own Skills Kit.

The other book I like is How Patterns Work by Assembil. It's a big book, so I haven't managed to even scratch the surface with it. It's beautifully done and the creator of that book went to the same university as me, so it makes sense to me as it's written in the same way as I was taught to draft.

Garmenta Apparel is also a great site with lots of good information if you’re interested in the professional side of patternmaking and grading. Her blog and Instagram are definitely worth a look.

I hope that helps! Best of luck with your course.

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of June to get Part One of our Copy Your Clothes Series, the Copy Your Clothes Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Hacked Attwood pants made by @thatsewannabel

Collins top made by Emily, a Curated by ITF member.

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 172 - EMILY'S TIPS FOR COPYING YOUR CLOTHES

THE Q & A SERIES

EMILY’S TIPS FOR COPYING YOUR CLOTHES

Hi Emily

I am really trying to improve/ learn how to cut a pattern from a much loved garment. I manage reasonably with children’s simple clothes but struggle with mine. I’d love to hear any tips you have. 

Thanks, 
Clare

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Hi Clare,

Can I just say first up - you are not the first person who has loved a garment and wanted to know how to copy it so that they could wear it forever. We’ve heard this question SO MANY TIMES in our community.

Because, if you’re someone who has the skills to make your own clothes, it’s highly likely that you’ve thought at some point… “I know how to sew. I can copy that. I mean… how hard can it be?”

And you would be right to think that you CAN copy clothes. Even without unpicking them! (Which is the approach we teach. Seam rippers, begone!)

What most makers don’t realise is they’re actually embarking on a journey that is, while related to sewing a garment, a completely unique skill set. Obviously, there is a lot of overlap between sewing a garment from a pattern and sewing a garment from a pattern you’ve drafted from a finished garment. The knowledge you have from sewing garments from patterns will most definitely help you as you starting to learn patternmaking skills, but there are some pretty important patternmaking foundations that you won’t necessarily be able to ‘figure out’ just because you’ve sewn a few garments from patterns.

Which is exactly why we took a deep dive into the whole process in our Copy Your Clothes Skills Kit.

As you probably know, it’s all about the details for In the Folds. We’re big on learning skills and having strong foundations because this is what helps you get a really beautiful finish. And that’s what gets you making clothes you REALLY love and REALLY love to wear.

WHY COPY YOUR CLOTHES?

What's great about copying clothes you already own is that you know exactly how the garment fits from the original item. When starting with a pattern, you can get a rough idea of how it's going to fit by checking the garment measurements, but it still leaves a lot up to guesswork (which is why we ALWAYS encourage you to make a toile). By using an existing garment as a base pattern, you will have a good idea of how the garment will fit your body. Once you have a pattern, you can then adjust it to fit your body better or alter the design to suit your style or preferences (more on that in the upcoming issue of Curated).

The other great thing about drafting a pattern from an existing garment is that you have a garment to refer to to check seam finishes and details. It’s a great opportunity to learn patternmaking skills without having to start from scratch!

Tips for successfully copying your clothes

Start with a simple garment

Garments can be made from woven or knit fabrics. Choose a garment that does not have design details such as darts, panel lines, tucks or gathers for your first copy. We recommend starting with a T-shirt and then working your way up to more complex patterns. Garments that do not lay flat will be more difficult to trace, so we encourage you to leave those until you have completed a few patterns using this process

And, while a t-shirt might seem like a very simple garment, please don’t be fooled!

Taking a pattern from a t-shirt will teach you a range of techniques that are foundational to patternmaking. It’s really important that you understand why they are done and learn how to do them well when taking a pattern from an existing garment. Remember, any errors that you make on a pattern will be transferred to any and all garments you make from that pattern. So take it slow and learn it well and properly!

 It’s a good place to start as you don’t have to deal with elements such as darts or gathers etc. but it will give you a chance to trace straight seams, curved seams and sleeves.

Have the right tools on hand

A needle point tracing wheel is the most important piece of equipment when copying your clothes. There are various types of tracing wheels available, but for patternmaking it is important you get one with needle points. Ones with smoother or flatter points won’t have the desired effect, and are used for different processes in sewing. A needle point tracing wheel is sharp enough to transfer markings through the garment without damaging your clothes.

If you’re intent on learning patternmaking skills and you don’t have a tracing wheel already, it is a good piece of equipment to add to your toolbox.

You will also need pattern paper and a patternmaking ruler. We suggest a curved ruler too, such as a French curve or Patternmaster.

Consider the condition of the garment you are copying

You can copy a garment in any condition. Don’t worry if it’s a newer garment, or something you can still get a lot of wear out of. For the process we use, we won’t be unpicking the garments to create a pattern so you’ll still be able to wear it afterwards. Bonus!

The better the condition, the easier the garment will be to copy. When clothes begin deteriorating, they often stretch and warp out of shape, so this may make it difficult to trace an accurate pattern. If it’s something you love though, it’s well worth giving it a go, even if it is in poor condition. As you have pattern alteration skills (and if you don’t you should definitely join Curated by ITF!), you will likely be able to tweak any issues that come about due to stretched or warped fabric.

If your garment is in poor condition, we recommend choosing something in better condition for your first attempt to get used to the process and work your way up to the garment in poorer condition.

Prepare the garment to make it as easy as possible to trace

This means:

• Launder the garment. It is important that the garment is in good shape so that the trace is as accurate as possible.

• Iron the garment. Use steam to ensure any areas that have stretched are as flat as possible.

• Get to know the garment. Look over the garment and ask yourself some questions about how it's made:

• Is the garment symmetrical?

• How is it constructed? (i.e. what seam finishes are used?)

• How are openings finished? For example, how is the hemline finished, how are the necklines / armholes finished?

• Does the garment have any special details I need to consider?
  

The basics of copying your clothes

Start by marking the CENTRE FRONT / CENTRE BACK

Find the CENTRE FRONT by folding the T-shirt in half with the front facing out. Align the shoulder seams and the side seams. Lay the piece flat and smooth out any wrinkles.

The fold is the CENTRE FRONT. Place a vertical pin in the CENTRE FRONT at the neckline and the hem. If the back neckline extends above the front neckline, which is common for T-shirts, place the pin through the back neckline.

Take a length of masking tape and place it along the fold from the top of the garment to the bottom, with one edge right up against the fold. Use multiple pieces if required (it doesn’t have to be one length). 

Leave the pins in place so it is clear which side of the tape is the CENTRE FRONT.

With a tracing wheel, carefully trace along the seam lines

Methodically work your way around the garment so that you don't miss a seam.

When using the tracing wheel you need to apply enough pressure for the wheel to leave markings on the paper underneath the garment. Roll the tracing wheel back and forth in the same spot a couple of times before moving along the seam. 

If you make a mistake, go over the seam again, pressing harder with the tracing wheel. This means when you lift the garment it will be clear which markings are the correct markings to follow.

You can use a ruler for straight seams and trace along them with the tracing wheel or just use the tracing wheel and straighten out the line later when you are tracing the markings.

For seams that are on the the outer edge of the garment (e.g., shoulder seams and side seams in the case of a T-shirt) you can choose whether you would like to trace the seam shape with the tracing wheel or a pencil.

Use a ruler on straight seams to help you get a straight line.

Alternatively, mark each end of the straight line with a pencil and then join the points when you remove the garment.

To mark a curved line with a pencil, use a broken line to transfer the shape onto the paper.

Check and true your pattern pieces

As you trace your pieces, check them against the pieces they will attach to to check that the seams are the same length and there is smooth flow through from front to back. This will ensure the pieces fit together accurately and you won’t get any surprises at the sewing machine.

Make a toile

Even though you’ve made a pattern from a garment you already own, if you’re not sure about anything, a toile is ALWAYS a good idea and a great way to check before cutting into your ‘good’ fabric.

Happy skill-building,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of June to get the Copy Your Clothes Skills Kit delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Peppermint Wrap top made by @marfasmakes

Darlow pants made by @kristinkoury

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 171 - HOW TO LENGTHEN AN A-LINE PATTERN

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO LENGTHEN AN A-LINE PATTERN

Hi there,

I'm writing regarding the lengthening of the Rushcutter dress. I'd like to make it at least 10" longer than it is, however I see that there is a flare to all of the panels in the dress, and I wanted your advice regarding this alternation. I know that the side panel is likely to be a bit heavy due to the pocket added on top. I see the lengthening line on the panel pieces, so that's where I would add the extra length. Best advice on this please?

Thanks,

Dawn

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Hi Dawn,

Great to hear you’re planning to make the Rushcutter dress. It is the very first pattern we released, so it holds a special place in our hearts!

Over the years, we’ve seen makers have a LOT of fun with this pattern. If you’d like to find some inspiration you should definitely check out the Instagram hashtag #rushcutterdress. 

We love it when makers want to make changes to our patterns, and whenever we can we are happy to help! Adding length to the Rushcutter dress has been done before (check out this one by Oak Fabrics!), but you’re right, the pockets are definitely a consideration.

Here’s what you need to do.

How to lengthen the Rushcutter dress

To lengthen the pattern, definitely use the LENGTHEN / SHORTEN lines that are on the pattern. Use the CENTRE BACK and CENTRE FRONT lines to ensure you’re lining the lower section up correctly and the grainline on the SIDE PANEL.

Normally when you add or remove length from a pattern using the LENGTHEN / SHORTEN line, you draw a line of best fit over the alteration. In the case of the Ruschutter, which has straight seam lines, this means ruling a straight line over the alteration. If the pattern you’re adding length to has curved seams then you need to mark in the new seam line as a curve.

As you can see, to draw a straight line to the lower sections we need to cut a little bit of the width off (I’ve made these yellow in the illustration).

In a pattern with quite a lot of ease in this area, like the Rushcutter dress, this may not be a problem, but it will depend on your measurements in relation to the finished garment measurements. In this case we will be losing about 10cm (4in) ease in this area if we go ahead with this pattern alteration, so be sure to check your measurements before you make the cut!

If you would prefer to not lose this width, the alternative is to follow the lines on the upper section when adding length (a) and then joining the new line to the original hem line (b). As you can see, this adds some width to the hem circumference. 

If you’re making View A (with the patch pocket), once you’ve added length, you then need to decide what to do with the pocket. The way the pocket is constructed on the Rushcutter is that it becomes part of the side panel. 

By adding length to this panel, the pocket will end up sitting very low and you wouldn’t be able to reach it. Alternatively, you can lengthen the pocket in the same way we lengthened the pattern which will keep the design integrity intact, but then you have a very long pocket. You’d be able to put things in it, but may not be able to reach in to get it back out!

You have two options here. The first is to keep the pocket in its original size and keep it in its original position. This means that you will need to fold up the bottom edge of the pocket and attach it to the SIDE PANEL. This approach means you will see a line of stitching and the bottom of the pocket.

The other option is to lengthen the pocket so it goes all the way to the hem, and then make a lining to attach to the inside of the pocket. This way from the outside it will look like the pocket goes all the way to the hem, but on the inside, you will have a shorter pocket bag to catch things so they don’t go all the way to the hem too.

Which option you choose is really a matter of design preference. It’s up to you!

To do this:

A Lengthen the pocket so the top of the pocket sits in the original position.

B Make the pocket lining piece by removing the hem allowance from the top of the original pocket piece.

C When constructing the pocket, slide the pocket lining under the hem of the new pocket so that when you stitch the hem you catch the pocket lining.

D Attach the pocket to the SIDE PANEL, sewing the bottom of the pocket lining in place first, then attaching the edges of the pocket lining and pocket to the SIDE PANEL. You can then construct the dress as normal.

Hope this helps your Rushcutter sewing adventure, Dawn. And if you have any other questions about the Rushcutter sewing process, we recommend you check out our Rushcutter sew-along here.

Make sure you share your finished make with us too - it’s one of our favourite parts!

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Rushcutter dress pattern can be found here.

• The Rushcutter dress sew-along can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Hove tote made by @the.tiny.tailor

Hove jacket made by @sewquietly

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 168 - REMOVING PANEL LINES FROM A PATTERN

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO REMOVE PANEL LINES FROM A PATTERN

On the Acton dress the centre front bodice is not cut on the fold, although the seam is straight and so it could be. I'm wondering if there is any structural purpose to having a seam down the centre front, or whether I could cut on the fold so I don't have to pattern match my tricky fabric.

A

Sydney, Australia

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Hi there!

I’ll answer your question specifically, as well as give you some pointers about removing seams in general for anyone else reading along that may have this question in relation to another pattern.

In general, if a seam line is straight, it’s normally fine to remove it.

For example, in our Attwood pants we used a lot of panel lines to create a design feature. The design intention of the different panels allows makers to play with the pattern and use fabric in different ways (like colour blocking or directional prints) to create different looks. When made in a solid colour, the panel lines add a point of difference so that the pants are more than ‘just’ a plain pair of pants. But, the panel lines aren’t a necessary part of the Attwood pants’ ‘constructability’ and can be removed if you want a basic pair of pants with the same fit as the Attwoods.

If you look at the centre seam lines on the Atwood pants you can see they are straight.

HOW TO REMOVE PANEL LINES FROM THE ATTWOOD PANTS PATTERN

Removing the panel lines from the Attwood pants pattern is very straightforward.

Line up the corresponding panel pieces with STITCH LINE (grey line on our patterns) on STITCH LINE. Tape or glue in place. 

Done!

In the case of the Attwood pants, you could even do this to remove the side seams!

In most cases there will be shaping in the side seam, but due to the wide leg and elastic waist of the Attwoods pants pattern, the side seam is almost straight. 

Shown above is the CENTRE FRONT BODICE panel and the SIDE FRONT BODICE panel of the Acton dress pattern.

Shaping is created for the bust through a princess panel. (If you’d like to learn more about princess panels, read this blog post.)

As you can see, although the seam lines on the CENTRE FRONT BODICE (piece 1) are straight, the curve on the SIDE FRONT BODICE (piece 2) is what creates the shaping. We can’t remove this panel line as a result.

However, the CENTRE FRONT SEAM LINE on piece 1 is straight, so it can be removed.

When determining if a seam can be removed, the other things to check for are design details or markings. In this case you can see there is a drill hole on the CENTRE FRONT STITCH LINE.

What is a drill hole?

Drill holes are small holes marked on a pattern. They are used to indicate a dart point or other design feature, such as the location of patch pockets, belt loops or pivot point - any feature that is located in an area where you are unable to notch a seam. They are marked on fabric with chalk or a tailor's tack. You can read more about drill holes here.

In this case the drill hole indicates where you need to stop stitching when joining the CENTRE FRONT BODICE pieces together.

An opening is required to join the bodice to the skirt due to the V shape of this seam line.

The opening in the seam allows flexibility so that both sides of the bodice can be pinned accurately to the skirt. So you can see that this drill hole marking is important to the pattern and needs to be included in any design changes made.

HOW TO REMOVE PANEL LINES FROM THE ACTON DRESS PATTERN

Step 1

To remove the panel line from the CENTRE FRONT BODICE, remove the seam allowance from the centre front seam by cutting along the STITCH LINE. Remember that you still need the drill hole marking.

Alter the cutting instructions so this piece is cut on the fold rather than as a pair.

Step 2

When you cut the piece, mark the drill hole and cut along the fold from the bottom of the piece to the drill hole to create the required opening in the centre front.

And that’s it!

Happy Acton and Attwood sewing!

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Attwood pants pattern can be found here.

• The Acton dress pattern can be found here.

• How to create princess panels - blog post here.

• Adding pattern markings to your patterns - blog post here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Peppermint Wrap skirt made by @threadbitchbrighton

Rushcutter dress made by @hodgepodgefarm

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 166 - THE BASICS OF GRADING PATTERNS: PART TWO

THE Q & A SERIES

THE BASICS OF GRADING PATTERNS: SHIFT METHOD

Hi there! 

I recently got some vintage pattern but unfortunately they’re not all my size:(. I think that means it’s time for me to learn how to resize patterns, if you could please help me, even if it’s just some tricks or things to look out for, I’d be so very appreciative!

Sadiya Coovadia

Toronto, Canada

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Following on from part one of our answer (which you can read here), this week I’m going to show you how to grade patterns using the Shift method.

If you’re new to pattern grading, I’d suggest giving the Slash and Spread method a go first, as it will familiarise you with the concepts involved. This is an important part of learning how to make pattern alterations.

WHY USE THE SHIFT METHOD OF PATTERN GRADING?

The Shift method of pattern grading is a good option if you don’t want to cut up your pattern pieces, and is the method professional patternmakers use when grading manually.

how to grade patterns using the shift method

For this method, you will need the stitch line marked on the pattern. (Note: All In the Folds patterns come with the stitch line marked, however not all patterns do. Read more about this here.) 

You can either have the seam allowance on the pattern or not. If you do have seam allowance on the pattern you will need a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern lines onto the pattern paper.

Step 1

To get started, prepare your pattern in the same way you did in steps 1 to 3 of the Slash and Spread method. You need the lines marked on the pattern piece.

Step 2

On a piece of pattern paper mark a vertical line and label it CENTRE FRONT. Mark a horizontal line, perpendicular to the first, towards the top of the line. These lines will help you keep things accurate as you move the pattern piece.

Step 3

Line up the CENTRE FRONT of the pattern piece with the CENTRE FRONT line on the paper. Line up the upper grading line on the pattern with the horizontal line on the pattern paper. Hold in place with pattern weights.

Step 4

Starting at the CENTRE FRONT neckline, trace the neckline up to the vertical grading line onto the paper using a tracing wheel. If your pattern doesn’t have seam allowance, just trace the edge of the pattern.

Step 5

Using a ruler, extend the grading line onto the paper at the top and bottom of the pattern piece.

Step 6

Mark a second line, ¼ of the grade amount from the first (See Part One for how to work this out).

Step 7

Carefully slide the pattern piece over so that the grading line on the pattern piece lines up with the second line. Use the horizontal line to ensure the piece stays level. Hold in place with a pattern weight.

Step 8

Continue tracing the pattern stitch line until you reach the next grading line.

Step 9

Again, extend the grading line onto the paper and draw a second line to the left of the first, ¼ of the grade amount.

Step 10

Slide the pattern piece over and continue tracing the piece up to the next grading line.

Step 11

For the vertical lines, do the same thing. Mark a second line below the first and slide the pattern piece down to line up with the new line.

Step 12

Continue the process until you get back to the CENTRE FRONT. Remove the pattern piece.

Step 13

Finalise the pattern piece by drawing nice smooth lines over the traced lines. Add seam allowance and pattern markings. Repeat for the remainder of the pattern.

Finally, check and true the pattern.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Basics of grading patterns: Part One - read the tutorial here.

• Checking & truing patterns - read the tutorial here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Acton dress made by @janice.makes

Peppermint Wide leg pants made by @anniehmakes

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 165 - THE BASICS OF GRADING PATTERNS: PART ONE

THE Q & A SERIES

THE BASICS OF GRADING PATTERNS

Hi there! 

I recently got some vintage pattern but unfortunately they’re not all my size:(. I think that means it’s time for me to learn how to resize patterns, if you could please help me, even if it’s just some tricks or things to look out for, I’d be so very appreciative!

Sadiya Coovadia

Toronto, Canada

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Hi Sadiya,

What a great opportunity to begin building on your sewing skills! The thing about learning skills and techniques like these is that it opens up a whole new world of sewing, and we’re happy to help a fellow maker on their sewing journey.

So, congratulations, and here’s what you need to know!

To start with, you’re going to need to either increase or decrease the vintage patterns to make them fit your size. To do this you need to understand grading.

WHAT IS GRADING?

The term ‘grading’ is used in two ways in the sewing world. 

Firstly, grading can refer to when you alter the lines of the pattern to go between sizes. For example, you may have a size D bust, a size E waist and a size F hip. Obviously, you can’t make a straight size E because the bust will be too large and the hip will be too small. So you will grade between sizes to get a fit that suits your specific measurements. This is a very common pattern alteration when making your own clothes and a good one to learn how to do.

The other use of the word grading is how it’s used in the fashion industry.  Pattern grading is the process of increasing or decreasing the size of a clothing pattern to create various sizes, while maintaining the proportions and overall design of the original garment. 

Grading involves using a set of rules and measurements to scale the pattern up or down, typically based on standard size charts or specific customer measurements. This ensures that each size of the garment fits correctly and maintains the intended style and design details.

two methods of grading manually

There are two main ways to grade a pattern manually: the slash and spread method and the shift method. In this week’s tutorial I will show you how to grade a pattern using slash and spread, and next week I will show you the shift method.

Which grading method is better?

Both methods will give you the same result, but if you’re just getting started, the method I’ll show you in this tutorial - slash and spread - is easier. It’s also a great starting point for getting your head around the concept of grading, which will in turn be helpful if you decide you prefer to use the shift method. 

The disadvantage of the slash and spread method is that you need to cut through your pattern, so I suggest tracing a copy of the original pattern before you get started.

Tools for grading

You need a transparent grading ruler for this tutorial. You can make it work with a regular ruler, but a grading ruler will speed up the process and make it more accurate.

You also need some pattern paper, glue or tape and a pacer pencil.

HOW TO RESIZE PATTERNS USING THE SLASH AND SPREAD METHOD

The first thing you need to do when grading a pattern is work out how much width needs to be added or removed. 

Start by looking at the size chart for the pattern, and comparing it to your actual measurements. Remember, patterns for woven garments have a certain amount of ease built into them (the space between your body and the garment) so when grading a pattern you want to have the same amount of ease in the pattern as when it was designed. The finished garment measurements can help with that. 

Ease = finished garment measurements - body measurements

For our example, we will say that you need to add 10cm (4in) to your pattern in the bust, waist and hip.

If you think about a bodice pattern, normally you have a front and back piece that are cut on the fold to create the full garment. So you have a left front, left right, left back and right back. This means that when grading a pattern, you need to distribute the alteration between the four parts of the pattern.

To increase the pattern by 10cm, we divide this by 4 (the four parts of the pattern), which means each part of the pattern will increase by 2.5cm.

You then need to know what ¼ of this amount is and what ½ of this amount is. I find it helpful to jot these numbers down at the beginning of the process so they’re right in front of me.

In this case, ¼= 6.25mm (I’ll round to 6.2mm)
½= 1.25cm (I’ll round to 1.3cm)

Distribute the grade through the pattern

It’s helpful to have a diagram of where the alteration will be made in front of you as specific parts of a pattern need to be altered, and this will be the same across most patterns. This diagram from Threads is a helpful reference.

Mark the lines on the pattern

Step 1
Mark in the horizontal slash lines on the pattern. We’re working on a top pattern, so the horizontal lines go through the armhole and the waist. These lines need to be perpendicular to CENTRE FRONT.

Step 2

Mark in the vertical slash lines. They go through the neckline (close to the centre front), through the shoulder, and through the armhole near the side seam. These lines should be parallel to the CENTRE FRONT.

Step 3

Take note of how the grade will be distributed through the piece. 

For the vertical lines, ¼ goes through the line closest to CENTRE FRONT, another ¼ through the shoulder area, and ½ through the armhole area. If you add these fractions together you get 1, which means the whole grade will be distributed through the piece.

For the horizontal lines, we will distribute ¼ through each line.

Step 4

Cut through the slash lines. Being careful to not mix up the pieces.

Step 5

Take a piece of pattern paper that is larger than your pattern piece (if grading the pattern up) and mark in the CENTRE FRONT down one side.

Step 6

Start with the CENTRE FRONT next section of the pattern. Line up the CENTRE FRONT edge with the CENTRE FRONT marked on the page and glue or tape in place.

In the illustrations I have changed the section of the pattern to orange when it is in position.

Step 7

Draw a line down the side of the piece that is taped in place, parallel to the CENTRE FRONT. Draw a line across the bottom of the piece, perpendicular to CENTRE FRONT.

Step 8

Referring to your diagram in Step 3, you will see that ¼ of the grade (i.e. 6.2mm) needs to be added to this section.

Draw a line 6.2mm from the vertical line, making sure it’s parallel to the first line.

Step 9

Slide the next piece of the pattern over and line up the corner of the piece with the corner created by the lines. Tape or glue in place.

Step 10

Repeat the process on the other side of the piece, again adding ¼ of the grade. Slide the pattern piece over and tape or glue in place.

Step 11

At this stage you have the top section of the pattern in position, so you now need to move to the next row of pieces.

Before we get started, we need to add ¼ of the grade to the piece vertically. Use your ruler to mark this in below the pieces that are stuck in place.

Step 12

Place the next three pieces in position using the guidelines. Stop when you get to the armhole, as we need to add another guideline there.

Step 13

Draw a line down the side of the last piece that is taped in place, parallel to the CENTRE FRONT.

Mark in another guideline, parallel to the CENTRE FRONT, this time ½ of the grade (i.e. 1.3cm). Slide the next part of the pattern over and tape or glue in place.

Step 14

Rule a line across the bottom of the pieces and another ¼ of the grade down from that. Position the remaining pattern pieces and tape or glue in place.

FINALISE THE PATTERN

Redraw smooth stitch lines over the alteration. Add seam allowance back onto the pattern.

Repeat the process for the back pattern (with the guidelines in the same positions as on front) and sleeve (if it has one).

Making the pattern smaller

The same process can be used for making a pattern smaller. Rather than slashing and spreading to add width, you need to overlap the sections of the pattern to make it smaller.

Finally, check and true the pattern.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• Checking & truing patterns - read the tutorial here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Elwood dress made by @maker.baker.girl

Peppermint Wide leg pants made by @hasbeens.and.handmade

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 160 - HOW TO TRUE A DART

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO TRUE A DART

Hi there,

Just wondering if you can help me with what I need to do to a pattern after I’ve added in a dart. I can’t quite wrap my head around how to make the points on the seam edge that you see on patterns…

Thanks,
Janice

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With the release of our Marden shirt Hack Kit this month (part three of our Sewing Shirts Series - check out part one and part two), we thought this was a timely topic to address.

Sometimes when you’re learning a new skill there’ll be strange words and techniques to learn that won’t mean anything to you at first and this may be one of those times!

If you’ve got no idea what it means to true a dart, but you’re keen to learn, you’ve come to the right place!

But let’s start at the beginning…

When you first start learning the skill of pattern making, it’s helpful to remember that your aim is to turn a flat object into something with shape and curves.

To do this, we have to manipulate fabric by folding or gathering it, essentially tucking excess fabric into seams in one area (which are then stitched in place) in order to create shape or volume in another area.

what is a dart?

Darts are one approach garment designers use to make something two dimensional (like fabric) fit around something three dimensional (your body).

Although they are most commonly used to create shape around areas of the body that are curved, such as the bust, shoulders, elbows and waist, they can be used pretty much anywhere, whether purely for fit or as a design detail.

WHAT IS DART SHAPING AND WHY DO WE NEED TO THINK ABOUT IT?

You may have put a dart in a garment before and noticed that it changed the shape of the seam that it lies on and it’s no longer the smooth line it once was. We don’t want to just leave it like this as the additional fabric in that area may affect the fit and finish of the garment.

So, we add something called dart shaping. Dart shaping is a technique used to manage the extra fabric that’s been added into a garment and ensure that once the dart is sewn, the seam it's on will remain a nice smooth line, which ultimately means we’ll get a nice clean garment finish (something we love at In the Folds!).

how to add dart shaping

Note that in the example above, we have added seam allowance to all seams except for the side seam. We cannot add seam allowance to the side seam until we have trued the dart and added dart shaping.

Be sure to leave excess paper on the seam with the dart, as we will need this for the dart shaping.

STEP 1

Take the pattern piece that requires dart shaping.

Fold the dart so you can predict what will happen to the shape of the seam when you sew the dart from the fabric.

Think about which direction the fullness of your dart will be pressed once it is sewn. This will decide which dart arm you need to fold. Generally, vertical darts are pressed towards the centre front (in the case of front darts) and the centre back (in the case of back darts). For horizontal darts (like the one pictured), the bulk of the dart is pressed down.

Tip - You will be using a tracing wheel in the following steps, so it’s a good idea to slide a cutting mat under the pattern so you don't damage your table.

STEP 2

Folding a dart on a flat surface is not possible, as we are making a two dimensional pattern three dimensional.

Place the tip of the dart on the corner of a table (or a large book also works) and fold the lower dart arm so that it meets the upper dart arm.

As you can see in the example, the side seam line doesn't match up on either side of the folded dart. We will correct this before marking the dart shaping. 

Hold the folded dart in place with a pin or pattern weight.

STEP 3

Take a ruler and draw a straight line from the top of the side seam, down to the hemline. This is the new side seam STITCH LINE. If the seam had previously been a curve, you would draw in a smooth curve.

STEP 4

Use a tracing wheel to transfer the new side seam STITCH LINE onto the folded section of the dart. This will give you the shaping you need for the dart.  If you don't have a tracing wheel, poke small holes along the stitch line using a stiletto, pin or similar.

STEP 5

Add seam allowance to the side seam. Use a tracing wheel to transfer the seam allowance line onto the folded section of the dart.

STEP 6

Unfold the dart. You will see the dots made by the tracing wheel. Take a ruler and join the dots to form a nice smooth line.

STEP 7

Add notches at the side seam by extending the dart arms through the seam allowance. Mark notches.

video - truing a dart 

If you’re someone who learns by watching, take a look at this video where I walk you through the process of creating dart shaping.

Happy patternmaking,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Sewing Shirts Series is a three-part series that includes the Sewing Shirts Skills Kit, the Marden shirt pattern and the Marden shirt Hack Kit, which are available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are now available for purchase by current subscribers.

• The Neale top pattern is a hack from the Neale jumpsuit Hack Kit, which can be purchased by current members of Curated by ITF as a Past Issue here.

• Video - Dart shaping - can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Acton dress made by @alyant79

Neale jumpsuit hack made by @thatsewannabel

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 158 - HOW TO LOWER THE COLLINS TOP ARMHOLE (VIEW A)

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO LOWER THE COLLINS TOP ARMHOLE

Hi Emily,

I would like to lower the armhole on the Collins top with sleeves. I found a tutorial on the sleeveless version but could not find one for the version with sleeves.

Could you help me please?

Thank you so much in advance!

M

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Hi there!

We love it when our customers ask us how to customise their makes to fit their own unique bodies and measurements. We also know how uncomfortable it is when a garment cuts in under the arm, so we’re very happy to be able to answer this question!

HOW TO CHECK IF YOU NEED TO LOWER THE ARMHOLE

Before we get started, I think it’s worth checking that you are sure this is the alteration you need. I raise this, because this same fit issue could be caused by the need to add length between the shoulder and the bust line. This adjustment also lowers the position of the armhole and could correct the problem.

The best way to work out if you need this adjustment in a garment is to check where the dart is sitting. If it's sitting too high then that's a pretty good indication that length is required. If not, then you're right and just lowering the armhole should do the trick.

In the case of the Collins top (which doesn’t have a dart) I would say to consider your wardrobe in general. Do you often have problems with armholes cutting in? If so, then it’s likely that you need to add length between the shoulder and bust line, rather than lower the armhole specifically.

Some of our Curated by ITF members have realised, through the process of learning to fit clothes specifically to their unique body measurements, that this is a consistently needed adjustment, and it has become one of their standard adjustments when making clothes for themselves.

If the problem of armholes cutting in is not a common issue for you, then read on!

HOW TO LOWER THE ARMHOLE ON THE COLLINS TOP (VIEW A)

Because of the puzzle element of the Collins top (which happens to be one of most loved parts of this pattern!) we know it might feel a little daunting to attempt fit alterations, but as with anything, if you just take it step by step, you’ll have no trouble at all.

Here you go!

STEP 1

Pin or tape (with something that is easily removed) the SIDE FRONT PANEL to the CENTRE FRONT PANEL as if they have been joined.

On the side seam STITCH LINE, mark the amount you would like to lower the armhole by.

STEP 2

Redraw the armhole with a nice smooth curve, joining the point marked in the previous step. Keep the line as similar to the original as you can and meet the side seam at a right angle.

STEP 3

Line up the sleeve panels, STITCH LINE on STITCH LINE as if they have been joined and pin / tape in place. Mark in the bicep line (red line), which runs from the top of the underseam on the front through to the underseam on the back. Take half the measurement you used in STEP 1 and lower the bicep line by this amount (blue line).

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OUR CUSTOMERS LOVE THE COLLINS TOP FOR ITS SATISFYING PUZZLE-LIKE CONSTRUCTION

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STEP 4

Re-draw the armhole lines with a smooth curve.

STEP 5

Walk the front sleeve into the front armhole, STITCH LINE on STITCH LINE, starting at the neck side of the line.

It is likely that the STITCH LINE on the FRONT SLEEVE is not long enough to reach the end of the armhole curve due to the alteration.

Measure the distance between the sleeve STITCH LINE and the side seam on the SIDE FRONT PANEL. This is the amount that needs to be added to the FRONT SLEEVE.

STEP 6

Add this amount to the sleeve curve and then join to the hem STITCH LINE.

If it is a large alteration and the shape of the sleeve underseam is going to change drastically, we suggest also adding some width at the hem to keep the shape of the piece intact.

STEP 7

Now, repeat the same alteration for the back pieces, then check the front and back side seams line up nicely at the top and bottom of the seam.

Add seam allowance to the new lines (red) and cut away any excess.

Happy fitting!

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Collins top pattern can be found here.

• Adjusting length above the bust - blog post here.

• Checking patterns: Curved seams - blog post here.

• How to add seam allowance to a sewing pattern - blog post here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Attwood pants made by @mamasuesews

Wide leg pants made by @hauntedthimble

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 152 - HOW TO ALTER A RAGLAN NECKLINE

THE Q & A SERIES

How to alter a raglan neckline

Hi Emily,

How do I make a raglan neckline smaller? Is it as simple as lengthening each of the four seam lines or is there more to it to maintain the shape?

Katie
Long Beach, USA

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Hi Katie,

Raglan sleeves have been on our mind this month as it’s one of the tutorials included in our Cartwright dress Hack Kit, so we thought this would be a great question to tackle! And the raglan sleeve design has to be one of our favourites. Two of our first patterns ever released included it - the Rushcutter dress and the Collins top!

And I’m pleased to tell you, you are correct! To raise the neckline on a raglan sleeve (which will make it smaller) you need to continue the seam lines to your chosen neckline height.

I wanted to show you this on the raglan sleeve we drafted from the Cartwright dress + top pattern but realised the neckline couldn’t get much higher, so I’ll show you how to lower it first and then add back on… as I realised that someone out there might like to learn how to do the opposite!

How to lower the neckline on a garment with a raglan sleeve

Step 1

First you need to know how much you would like to lower the neckline by. You can work this out by referring to your toile (if you have one).

On the pattern, measuring from the STITCH LINE, mark in your new neckline with a broken line - marking the distance you would like to lower the neckline by.

For my example, we are lowering the neckline by 2.5cm (1in). Mark the new neckline on the FRONT, BACK and SLEEVE.

If you would like to see how we mark a curved line with a broken line you can check out this video.

Step 2

Join the broken line with a ruler or French curve. Make sure your new neckline meets the CENTRE FRONT and CENTRE back at a right angle.

Step 3

Before adding seam allowance, it’s a good idea to line up the pieces, stitch line on stitch line, to check the flow through of the neckline.

Checking the flow through means that you check how a line will look when the garment is assembled. You want lines to transition smoothly across seams with no lumps or bumps.

For more information on checking the flow through, or checking and truing, read this post.

Step 4

When you’re happy with the new neckline, add seam allowance. We suggest using a seam allowance of 1cm (3/8in), although if you prefer sewing a neckline with a seam allowance of 6mm (1/4in) that works too. Cut along the line to remove excess paper.

How to raise the neckline on a garment with a raglan sleeve

To raise the neckline, do the opposite.

Tape or glue some paper onto the top section of each pattern piece, so that you can “grow on” the new neckline.

Extend each STITCH LINE by the desired amount, following the angle of the seam.

Mark the new neckline by marking it at regular increments, measuring up from the original line.

As we did when lowering, it’s a good idea to check the flow through of the lines before adding seam allowance.

How to draft an alternate RAGLAN neckline

While we’re talking about necklines and raglans, I thought it would be fun to show you how to change the design of a raglan neckline - so, rather than just raising or lowering, how to change the shape like in the V-neck raglan neckline above.

Step 1

Place the SLEEVE on the FRONT, stitch line on stitch line, as if it has been sewn. Draw in your new neckline going from the shoulder dart to the CENTRE FRONT.

Step 2

On the dart STITCH LINE, measure down to determine how much you have lowered the neckline at this point. Mark this same amount on the other side of the dart. This will ensure the two sides of the dart meet cleanly when you sew the dart.

Step 3

Place the SLEEVE on the BACK, stitch line on stitch line, as if it has been sewn. Draw in your new neckline going from the point marked in STEP 2 to the CENTRE BACK.

And you’re done! I hope this tutorial gives you the confidence to start altering necklines on raglan sleeve patterns so you can make them exactly how you want them to be!

If you’re interested in learning more about patternmaking and hacking, our sewing membership, Curated by ITF, is the perfect place. With a new project each month, a back catalogue of past issues to keep you busy, support from industry experienced teachers and an inspiring online community you’ll learn everything you need to know to turn patterns into whatever beautifully finished garments you want to wear, and that fit perfectly!

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Cartwright dress Hack Kit is part two of a two-part series, featuring the Cartwright dress + top pattern. Both projects are available with a Curated by ITF subscription. The Cartwright dress Hack Kit is the July 2023 project and can be purchased here, or after July by current members in our Past Issues section. More information about the subscription can be found here.

• The Rushcutter dress pattern can be found here.

• The Collins top pattern can be found here.

• How to mark a stitch line on a pattern with a ruler - watch this video.

• How to add seam allowance to a sewing pattern - blog post.

• How to check patterns - blog post.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Rushcutter dress made by @apple_franca

Collins top made by @carly.makesclothes

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 149 - RESOURCES FOR PLUS SIZE SEWING

THE Q & A SERIES

Resources for plus size sewists

Hi again,

Could you talk more about your process of expanding your size range? It's really exciting to see your sizing expand!

A common challenge for plus size sewing is a huge lack of resources around how to draft patterns for larger sizes. It seems this is a problem on an industry level in fashion, schools, etc, as well as for home sewists and indie pattern companies.

Clearly knowledge exists, as clothing and patterns have been made in larger sizes. And more and more RTW and home sewing companies are putting out more sizes.

As far as I am aware, there is no book or central resource explaining how to draft larger sizes. As far as I can tell, it seems like indie sewing companies either have people who have figured out their own plus size block / drafting system and/or have access to industry biometric data. But this assumes they either have specialised knowledge already or access to professional resources that are not available to the average home sewist. Ie. it seems like there's a bit of an information desert.

Did you run into this challenge finding useful information in your size expansion process? Did you come across any useful resources? I am so curious about the process.

Thanks kindly,

Claire

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Note: This is the second part of my answer to Claire’s questions. You can read part one here.

Hi Claire, 

Unfortunately, you’re right - there isn’t a lot of information about drafting patterns for larger sizes that’s easily accessible for the home sewist. As I mentioned in the part one of my answer, there’s not even much that’s easily accessible for pattern designers! 

The indie pattern design industry has significantly contributed to expanding the available resources, so hopefully in time there will be more. In the meantime, here’s what I recommend.

CREATE A PATTERN CAPSULE

The concept of a pattern capsule is one that really excites us at In the Folds, and is part of the foundation of our monthly project subscription, Curated by ITF. 

Similar to a capsule wardrobe, a pattern capsule is where you have a small number of base patterns that you fit to your specific body shape and measurements and then adapt to your taste and style to create new designs.

If you select a pattern from a company that has drafted their patterns specifically for plus sizes, there will be less work for you to do in creating your pattern block. The main thing to remember when looking for a pattern to use as a base is that the pattern must fit you. It may not fit you perfectly straight out of the packet or off the printer (which is the case for most humans), but you don’t want to be grading up or amending issues with the pattern that are unrelated to fit. 

If you’re interested in finding base patterns to start with, this list will be helpful:

• We recently extended our pattern sizes to a hip measurement of 184cm (72.5”) and are releasing all our new patterns in this extended size range. We are also working to update our whole portfolio to include the new size range, but you can view what’s available now here.

• The Curvy Sewing Collective have collated a list of plus size pattern makers and also have a fantastic list of resources for pattern adjustments, fitting tips and pattern reviews. 

• Jess, from Broad in the Seams has a list of plus size patterns. 

• The Fat Friendly Pattern Club has a list of beginner friendly patterns. 

• Muna and Broad patterns are specifically drafted for plus size sewists.

LEARN HOW TO FIT GARMENTS

Learning to fit our own clothes might be daunting at first, but the great thing is that we often need the same adjustments with each garment we sew. So, once you’ve identified the alterations you need to make it gets easier! 

For example, you may find for your body measurements and shape that you need to add length and do a full tummy adjustment, so each time you start on a new pattern you know to specifically check these areas first.

Learning how to fit the clothes you’re making doesn’t have to be an ordeal - there’s lots of resources that can help you do this.

To start with, our Fit Kits help identify the adjustments you need to make to a garment, and then show you how to do each one through illustrated tutorials. For example, our Barkly skirt pattern is available in our full size range and has the Barkly skirt Fit Kit that runs through the most common fitting alterations required for skirts.  (I should also mention that although it was created alongside the Barkly skirt pattern, the tutorials can be applied to most skirt patterns.) 

Ahead of the Curve from Cashmerette is a fantastic book that is described as ‘the first sewing book to empower curvy and plus size sewists to feel body confident by sewing a wardrobe that fits.’ It includes lots of photos that help plus-size sewists identify which adjustments they might need to make to a pattern.

Now that you’ve made the fit alterations on the pattern blocks and you don’t have to worry about doing them over and over again each time you sew a new garment I recommend transferring your base patterns onto card for safekeeping, and then you can move on to the fun part - pattern hacking!

LEARN HOW TO PATTERN HACK

Learning how to sew is simply a matter of skill-building. You learn and practise one skill, and then once you’ve figured it out, you move onto the next skill. Pattern hacking is no different. Once you’ve learned how to fit clothes, learning how to hack patterns into something new is just the next step! It’s just a matter of finding the resources to support you as you learn the skill (which I realise is the problem we’re addressing, but hear me out!).

The methods for hacking patterns into new designs are basically the same, regardless of the size of the intended wearer. Because of this, plus size sewists can make use of the many free online tutorials related to pattern hacking, including those on the In the Folds website.

Because we want our customers and members to become confident sewists we have also created Hack Kits specifically for some of our patterns. In our Curated by ITF membership, we’ve seen how these pattern hacking resources empower sewists to experiment with a range of styles that they may not have considered before, because they’re supported by a resource they can refer to when they have questions.

For example, our Barkly skit Hack Kit includes a range of different skirt styles with lots of techniques relevant to drafting skirts. The added benefit for our Curated by ITF members is that if/when they hit a snag during this process or need clarification about something, they can ask as many questions as they need in our online community and we (or our very clever and supportive community!) will provide the answers.

Thanks for your questions, Claire. I know you’re not the only person who has been frustrated by the lack of size inclusivity in the sewing industries, so I hope this post helps you find some plus size pattern drafting and fitting resources to support you in your sewing journey. Of course, this support can most definitely be found in our Curated by ITF community.

And if you have any further questions, please leave them in the comments section and we’ll help as much as we can.

Happy sewing,

Emily 

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our monthly sewing subscription, Curated by ITF, can be found here.

• Read Part One of this question here - Q&A 148: Our experience in extending our pattern size range.

• The Barkly skirt pattern, Fit Kit and Hack Kit can be purchased as a bundle here.

• How to transfer patterns onto card - read the tutorial here.

• The Curvy Sewing Collective resources can be found here.

• Broad in the Seams list of plus size patterns can be found here.

• The Fat Friendly Pattern Club list of beginner friendly sewing patterns can be found here.

• Muna & Broad plus size patterns can be found here.

• Ahead of the Curve by Cashmerette can be found here.

• View all In the Folds patterns currently in available in our extended size range in our new Skills Library here and view our sizing chart here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Peppermint Wide Leg pants made by @lucia_fl

Peppermint Everyday dress made by @sew.evie

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 148 - OUR EXPERIENCE IN EXTENDING OUR PATTERN SIZE RANGE

THE Q & A SERIES

Our experience in extending our pattern size range

Hi again,

Could you talk more about your process of expanding your size range? It's really exciting to see your sizing expand!

A common challenge for plus size sewing is a huge lack of resources around how to draft patterns for larger sizes. It seems this is a problem on an industry level in fashion, schools, etc, as well as for home sewists and indie pattern companies.

Clearly knowledge exists, as clothing and patterns have been made in larger sizes. And more and more RTW and home sewing companies are putting out more sizes.

As far as I am aware, there is no book or central resource explaining how to draft larger sizes. As far as I can tell, it seems like indie sewing companies either have people who have figured out their own plus size block / drafting system and/or have access to industry biometric data. But this assumes they either have specialised knowledge already or access to professional resources that are not available to the average home sewist. Ie. it seems like there's a bit of an information desert.

Did you run into this challenge finding useful information in your size expansion process? Did you come across any useful resources? I am so curious about the process.

Thanks kindly,

Claire

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Hi Claire,

This is a fantastic question. You’re right - there is definitely an information desert when it comes to resources about drafting patterns in larger sizes. 

When we decided to extend the In the Folds size chart, this was by far the biggest hurdle.

I remember spending hours and hours googling everything I could think of to try and find the resources I needed to extend our size range. Or to find someone who could help us to do it.

the limitations of my fashion design degree with regards to grading for larger sizes

Although I have a Bachelor of Fashion Design and spent 4 years learning patternmaking, we unfortunately learned very little about extending the sizing of patterns. We learned to draft patterns using size 10 pattern blocks and size 10 mannequins.

We briefly learned to manually grade patterns, but never had to use the skill outside of that one lesson. The grading we were taught was an even grade - which means the pattern gets bigger or smaller by the same amount for each size. Although this works to an extent, there is a limit to how many sizes you can grade in this way. For example, if our base is a size 10, we can’t continue to grade the pattern with an even grade up to a size 36. 

the hurdles of extending a size range

To extend our size chart, what we needed to do was create a new base pattern or block, in a larger size. Then the pattern would be graded from there - which would ensure accuracy because the pattern was actually designed for a larger body, rather than just a smaller size pattern getting larger. 

After much googling, I found a company that could help me with extending our sizing. I had a few very interesting and inspiring conversations with the Director there and felt like her and her team really knew what they were doing.

Their team had a set of Alvanon mannequins and used professional 3D pattern drafting software to draft patterns and check them on 3D avatars. But they mainly worked with ready-to-wear brands, so their final products were patterns that would be sent off for commercial use, rather than home sewing.

Commercial patterns are very different to home sewing patterns

After some back and forth with the business we got our first pattern back, and at face value it looked pretty good. We conducted a fitting and there were a few minor issues that I wanted to discuss with the graders. When I started that conversation with the company, I realised that because they didn’t work within the home sewing space, it was difficult to communicate what I needed. For example, the term ‘Full Bust Adjustment’ is standard in the home sewing world, but this is not a commercial term. In industry, patterns are made in set sizes so there is no need for terms like this. Our plan was always to include a larger cup size in our extended range, so being able to articulate this in a way that would translate to our customers, was very important. 

Following some discussion, I realised that we needed to go back to the drawing board and work with a patternmaker that had experience in the home sewing space. Of course, I was disappointed that the first attempt to extend our sizing had been unsuccessful and quite costly, but it gave us a chance to get clear about what we wanted to do and what was most important to us.

I am a perfectionist and do my best to create patterns that are as close to perfect as possible, so it was important that when we eventually did release patterns in our new size range, the quality and accuracy that our customers have come to expect ran through the extended size range too. 

Plus size patternmaking is a specialist skill

My assistant, Alys, had previously worked with a patternmaker who specialised in plus size drafting and grading and I decided to try working with her. I sent off the same pattern as I had done with the other company and explained what we were trying to achieve. I could instantly tell that she understood our vision, but also had the background and technical skills to carry it out. She then sent back an altered pattern to fit our new size chart and it was time to do a fitting! 

Our patternmaker has now become our most helpful resource when it comes to extending the size range of our patterns. The skills required for this particular part of patternmaking are very niche and it is hard to find a specialist in this area who also has an understanding of the home sewing industry. Her knowledge and experience of plus size patternmaking is what has allowed us to continue to extend the sizing of the patterns in the In the Folds catalogue. 

Checking the fit: model or human?

The next step was to find a fit model to check the patterns on, which also proved difficult. I started researching whether we should be investing in an Alvanon mannequin, but at the end of the day knew this would never replace the need for a fit model.

We have a size 10 mannequin that we use for draping patterns and checking things as we go, but this never replaces the need for checking the fit of a pattern on an actual person. We tried to find a fit model with our size 24 measurements through modelling agencies in Sydney, but didn’t have any luck.

Then, we decided to look to our own network and advertised through our Instagram profile and mailing list, but of course received very few applications as most people who sit at the higher end or outside our current size range had no interest in hearing from us.

We had hoped to find someone we could work with in Sydney, but soon realised we were going to need to cast our net wider and put the call out internationally.

Thankfully, we found someone with our exact sample size measurements who was willing to try fit modelling remotely. We all knew it would be a work in progress and we would need to fine tune the process as we went. And I’m happy to say, this part of the process turned out to be a great success and we now have a fantastic relationship with our fit model. She sews the garment and photographs it on her body and answers questions about the fit.  The main thing we have learned is that it’s important to communicate exactly what we are looking for and the questions we have about the fit of the pattern. Being able to work with the same person each time means things remain consistent and we can compare feedback between patterns.

the advantages of a plus size fit model

The main advantage of using a fit model, instead of just a mannequin, is that a fit model can provide context. They can tell you how a garment feels to wear, but can also compare it to other garments (both in ready-to-wear and garments they have made themselves). This was particularly important when extending our size range. For example, our fit model could say “I often find bicep width to be a problem in ready-to-wear, but I don’t have that problem in this sample.” This kind of feedback helps us know exactly what to look for and where plus size grading sometimes goes wrong, in both ready-to-wear and sewing patterns.

an overview of our plus size pattern grading process

The process of grading for our extended size range looks like this:

1. We send our largest size from our size A-J range (size 24) to our patternmaker. She alters the pattern to fit our size 24 block (with D cup bust).

2. We receive the altered pattern back and send it to our fit model to sew and fit. Sometimes we go back and forth a couple of times to make sure we’ve answered all our questions about how the garment fits.

3. We consolidate the feedback and either proceed of send feedback and alterations back to our patternmaker.

4. If required, our patternmaker alters the pattern. If the alterations are large scale, we send the updated version back to our fit model. If the changes are minor, the pattern is altered and then goes straight for grading into the full range.

HELPFUL RESOURCES

For designers looking to extend their size range, Alex from @adifferentstitch has a great resource which covers pretty much everything you need to consider. 

You can also see all the patterns currently available in our extended size range here in our new Skills Library!

As I wrote this, I realised your question had two parts to it - what our process was for extending our size range, as well as where to find resources about drafting patterns for larger sizes. This week I’ve covered our process and in the next Q&A instalment I’ll give you some tips on drafting patterns for larger sizes.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• Opportunity Knocks: Tips for Inclusive Patterns by Alex of Fat Sewing Club - read the post here, and follow Alex on Instagram here.

• View all In the Folds patterns currently in available in our extended size range in our new Skills Library here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Acton dress made by @jbaysews

Peppermint wrap top made by @sewizza

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 146 - EMILY’S MATERNITY WEAR SUGGESTIONS

THE Q & A SERIES

emily’s maternity wear suggestions

Hi Emily,

I’d like to know if you have any suggestions about how to adjust patterns for maternity wear?

Thanks,

Ivy

Walsall, UK

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Hi Ivy,

This is great timing to receive this question as I have recently had a baby!

Maternity clothing has been a new part of my life since pregnancy last year and the arrival of bub in December. And, I’d love to say I sewed up a beautiful maternity wardrobe to get me through pregnancy and the postpartum months, but the reality was that I was very unwell throughout the first trimester and had very little energy to do anything.

When I was lucky enough to get a boost of energy in my second trimester, the reality (and panic) of running a small business and needing to take time off to have a baby set in and I spent the rest of the pregnancy preparing the business for taking time off.

I wear a lot of loose-style garments and had just hoped I could get through without buying or making anything. I didn’t like the idea of having clothing that was only useful for a specific purpose and then would no longer be needed. But, it turned out that I was a bit naive, and definitely needed some maternity-specific clothing as my bump got bigger, so this is something I can definitely shed some light on now.

MY FAVOURITE MATERNITY WEAR GARMENTS

Maternity jeans

I love wearing jeans and found that I was uncomfortable around the waist early on in pregnancy, particularly because I normally wear high waisted jeans. I bought a pair of maternity jeans and I loved them. They really got me through and I wore them for the majority of my pregnancy and continued to wear them for a few weeks postpartum while everything was still very tender.

If you are up for making some jeans or maternity pants, I think you could definitely give it a go with a pants or jeans patterns you already have. The key is to add the seam for the stretch band very low. I was surprised when my maternity jeans arrived how low the seam is where the jeans join to the jersey waistband. But this was exactly what I needed with my growing bump.

The pair I bought had the front pockets lowered so that they were under the bump band, but if I were to make some I would just leave off the front pockets. To me they were a bit awkwardly placed as they were so low down, so I didn’t really use them and they didn't look great. I did use the back pockets though.

I bought my jeans early on and the bump band was too big, so I took in the sides of the stretch sections with a zig-zag stitch and then let them out as I needed to throughout the pregnancy. If I were to make my own, I’d do the same thing. Make the waist section with plenty of space and then just adjust it as you go, as you don’t know how big your bump will get.

This is a bonus of being able to adjust your clothes! I recommend using a jersey fabric that has good retention so they sit nice and firm and don’t slip down. I think you could definitely make some maternity pants from an elastic waist pant pattern too - and they would potentially be a bit cooler for the summer months. I also think you could use the same concept for a skirt - basically just an elastic waist skirt but with a big belly band at the top. 

I know some people like wearing clothes under their bumps, but I found it much more comfortable wearing things over, as the things that go under just slipped down constantly. This tutorial from Hey June Handmade gives you an idea of how to go about sewing a maternity band on pants or skirts.

Overalls

The other thing I wore a heap was overalls. I bought a style that was quite large in the waist and they got me through most of my pregnancy. This is something you could make - just be sure to choose a loose fitting style. I made sure mine were big enough to wear while pregnant, but also something I could happily wear post pregnancy.

The In the Folds Collins top

As for tops, I have a lot of baggy / billowy tops that worked well with jeans and hid my bump until I was well into the second trimester. I've got a number of Collins tops that were in heavy rotation until they became a little short in the front. But even then, they still worked with something high-waisted and adjustable underneath (like the Wrap skirt that I wore a lot).

This style of loose-fitting top is still working well postpartum as they can easily be lifted for breastfeeding. I normally wear something high waisted underneath, so it doesn’t feel like I’m revealing too much skin and the loose fabric provides some cover. If you’re not comfortable showing this much skin, the other option is to wear a nursing singlet or camisole underneath that allows you to wear any top you like and when you lift it up you have the singlet underneath for coverage.

Loose-fitting dresses

I'd say the other thing to think about might be some loose fitting dresses. I had a few in my wardrobe that got me through the whole pregnancy. By the end it was the jersey ones (like the one above!) I was reaching for most as they comfortably fit over my bump and didn’t restrict movement. Unfortunately though, none of these dresses have centre front openings so they’re out of rotation now that I’m breastfeeding.

If I were to sew some dresses for this period, I’d definitely add a centre front placket so that it could be worn postpartum if you choose to breastfeed. Adding a centre front button closure to the Everyday dress pattern would work well.

I didn’t go out a whole lot during pregnancy, but when I did, it was good to have a couple of things that I knew fit and made me feel somewhat put together! One of these was an Acton dress with sleeves, that you can see me wearing here when I was about 36 weeks pregnant.

Loungewear

Another one of our patterns that would work really well throughout pregnancy and beyond is the Gibson loungewear set. I actually designed this pattern early on in my pregnancy as it was what I imagined I’d be wanting to swan around in when the baby arrived in December (Summer in Australia). But let’s be real, there was no swanning in December. Don’t get me wrong - life was completely magical as my partner and I adjusted to life with a baby, but also completely chaotic!

Now that things have calmed down somewhat, this is exactly the kind of thing I’ve been reaching for, even four months in. I’m still in no rush to put on pants with a fitted waistband, so anything with elastic has been my go-to. The dress and pants views in this pattern make it a versatile maternity wear option!

Robes

Another thing that was in heavy rotation in the early months with bub was my Whitlow robe. As I got the hang of breastfeeding, it was easier not to put a top on and I basically lived in robes (this was possible because it was so warm!). It was also handy to wear in hospital and to throw on when getting up throughout the night for feeds. 

I hope this has been helpful.

It is such a strange time to plan clothes for as everything is changing so fast, but my biggest tip would be to have a few go-to items you can grab and feel good in, and don’t worry too much about wearing the same thing over and over again!

Choose fabrics that launder well and if they don’t need to be ironed, that’s a plus too. Life with a newborn doesn’t leave much time or space for ironing clothes!

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Collins top pattern can be found here.

• The Acton dress pattern and sleeve expansion bundle can be found here.

• The Whitlow robe pattern can be found here.

• The Gibson Loungewear set pattern is available as an additional purchase through our Curated by ITF subscription. More information can be found here.

• The Everyday dress pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

• The Jersey dress pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

• The Wrap skirt pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Everyday dress made by @popscansew

Hove jacket made by @theladywholunches

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 141 - HOW TO TRANSFER PATTERNS ONTO CARD

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO TRANSFER PATTERNS ONTO CARD

Hi Emily

Thank you so very much for doing this question and answer series.

I would like to know how to make our own patterns that will be used over and over again, and what kind of paper or other substance.

- Cerisse

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Hi Cerisse,

Great question!

This month we’re diving into organising our spaces in our Curated by ITF sewing subscription. We’ve covered a range of topics, including storage options for supplies, fabrics and patterns and how we can best set up our spaces to make them easy to use and inviting.

If you’ve sewn with the more common commercial patterns you’ll know how flimsy and easy-to-break sewing pattern paper can be. It doesn’t take much to tear, and if they’re a much-loved pattern, the constant use will quickly lead to damage.

While In the Folds paper patterns are printed on a heavier paper than commercial patterns (and you have the option to choose your preferred paper weight when printing our digital patterns), how you store your patterns is still key to making them last as long as possible.

Transferring sewing patterns onto card is a great way to achieve this.

TRANSFERRING PATTERNS ONTO CARD

When working with patterns you use time and time again, like pattern blocks, it’s a great idea to transfer the pattern onto card. This way the pattern can act as a "master" pattern that you can refer to over and over.

There are two ways you can do this:

1. Use weights and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern lines onto the card, and then use a pencil and ruler to join the dots.

2. Glue the paper pattern onto the cardboard and cut it out.

BENEFITS OF TRACING YOUR PATTERN ONTO CARD

As mentioned above, tracing onto card will increase the longevity of your patterns because card is stronger than paper, but there’s other benefits that you should also consider.

When a pattern has been traced onto card it is very quick and easy to trace a new copy. Simply trace around the outside!

Also, if you do it after you’ve made all your alterations and fitting changes, it becomes very clear which pattern is the final version.

A PATTERN TRACING TIP

Depending on what you plan to use your pattern for, you may choose to remove the seam allowance before transferring the block onto card.

Traditionally, pattern blocks do not include seam allowances. This means you can quickly and easily trace a copy and make changes to the design without worrying about seam allowances getting in the way.

Think about what you plan to use your pattern or block for and then decide if having the seam allowance on your card will be helpful for your workflow.

If you’d prefer to use paper, you can find our article about which paper to use, and how to trace patterns here.

Happy sewing!

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• What is a pattern block? Tutorial can be found here.

• How to trace patterns - Tutorial can be found here.

• The Organise Your Space resource is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of January 2023. More information can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Barkly skirt made by @sewonthehill

Peppermint x ITF Wide Leg pants made by @wonkyseam

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES