Shirt Sewing Series

MAKER SPOTLIGHT: CHECK OUT THESE MEMBER MARDEN SHIRTS!

We don't expect our Curated by ITF members to make every project we release the moment it drops into their inbox. That's just not our jam.

But when they do? Golly, WE LOVE IT!

And this month we've been seeing some amazing Marden shirts popping up in our private online community. So, we thought we should share a few with you, in case you need some #sewinginspiration.

Sue’s Marden shirt - View B

One of our founding Curated by ITF members, we had an inkling that the Marden shirt would be right up her alley… and we were right! Sue made View B with the short, capped sleeves and chose a printed Liberty poplin, which turned out to be perfect for this piece.

What Sue Said about Marden

“I took my time sewing this great new pattern from @inthefolds. A little bit of sewing each day meant I could really enjoy all the lovely design features and clear instructions. It comes together beautifully. French seams, mitred splits and concealed button placket - lots to love!

I’m so glad that the ITF team led the way on playing with stripe direction because it gave me the courage to play too. 

The splits and placket are a delight. One of my favourite things about the construction was that the hem and buttonholes were done before the finish. It made them seem less of an inconvenience at the end, and more a part of the process. 

Do yourself a favour - make a Marden!”

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Lynn’s Marden shirt - View A

A committed In the Folds maker (with a collection of 9 Sawtell dresses at last count), we’ve featured Lynn’s creations before (you can read her ITF Spotlight post here). So, we weren’t surprised when she casually posted about her latest ITF make, a Marden shirt (paired beautifully with her Attwood pants).

WHAT LYNN said ABOUT MARDEN

“I played around with stripe placement in this thrifted linen and really enjoy the final shirt. 

Cutting it out was slightly mind-bending because of the multiple pieces, but it was a very very fun sew. I loved the mitred corners on the hem facing, and enjoyed piecing the whole thing together - it was also my favourite instructions for a collar that I’ve made thus far! And also the first time doing a concealed placket, for which the video (in the private online community) was really helpful.

I was surprised by the closer fit around the neck as well as the armholes, which serves as a good counterbalance to the oversized fit overall. It’s a very comfortable shirt and fun to style, and I look forward to wearing it all the time! Already have another cut out in a soft polka-dotted cotton lawn and can’t wait to see how it fits, before potentially working on a hack for a shirtdress.”

shuay’s marden shirt - view a

Our resident hacker, Shuay is not afraid to give an idea she has a go, and we can usually find her sharing design inspiration she’s come across, along with her ideas for hacking an In the Folds pattern into something completely new. She can also often be found making her Mum clothes (isn’t she the best!?) and this time it was a Marden shirt!

WHAT SHUAY said ABOUT MARDEN

“Mum is delighted to see my message this morning. She likes this style more than the other shirts she owns. She likes the opening on the sides, the roomy bodice and formal collar.

I made this in 2 metres of Nani Iro double gauze. I like the oversized look of the shirt on me. “

I hope these Marden makes give you some inspiration, if you’re lacking in sewjo at the moment. And join us in our Curated by ITF subscription before the end of the month to start your shirt sewing journey!

Happy sewing,

Emily

IMPROVE YOUR PRECISION SEWING WITH OUR
pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

OUR COLLABORATIVE EXTENDED SIZE RANGE DESIGN PROCESS

You may have seen that this week we released our latest pattern, the Marden shirt. An In the Folds twist on the classic tailored shirt, Marden has lots of details that make it fun to wear (boxy, stylish comfort) and sew (think panels for fabric play and skill-building techniques like a concealed button placket, collar and stand!), and we can’t wait to see them pop up in social media feeds around the world!

If you’ve got a keen eye for detail (like some of our eagle-eyed Foldies!), you may have noticed some subtle differences between the pattern in the size A-J range in comparison to the G-P range. Specifically, the addition of bust darts and a curved hem line to the G-P size range design. These differences weren’t originally part of the plan for our Marden shirt pattern, and what you see in the design for the A-J size range is pretty close to what our In the Folds team came up with in our initial sketches. 

Now, you may be surprised to hear that we work with a pattern maker, when I (Emily) am a pattern maker. However, drafting patterns for the plus size market requires very specific skills, which I do not hold as they weren’t part of my training. It’s very important to me that our extended size range is drafted with the same love, care, attention to detail and accuracy as our original size range, and to be able to do this I could see that we needed to work with someone who specialised in it. (If you’re interested in hearing more about the process of extending our size range, you can read about it here.) As a result, we now have a collaborative drafting process for our extended size range that involves the In the Folds team, a patternmaker and our fit model. And I wouldn’t have it any other way.

It was through many discussions with this highly-skilled team that we came up with the Marden shirt pattern as you know it today, and I am so happy with it! We received fantastic feedback from our sample maker and model, Sara from @fabric_scraps, who made two in the blink of an eye because she loved it so much! 

So, in this week’s post I wanted to highlight the collaborative process we have with our patternmaker and fit model and hopefully give you some insight into the decision-making process and how important it is to the quality of the finished pattern. Because without this team approach, Marden simply would not be what it is today.

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Marden shirt pattern - version 1 pattern

Like the current A-J size pattern, the first iteration of the G-P size pattern didn’t have a bust dart. When adding in the extra width needed to accommodate a size D bust cup size, we found that this impacted the hem line negatively, making it uneven, which was definitely not the look we were wanting. Our patternmaker stepped in at this point to (in her words) ‘cheat the shape to try to make things appear level using a shirt-tail shape’. 

The other thing we were on the lookout for in this initial version was to see how much ease to have in the shirt. Because the original pattern has considerable ease in it, our patternmaker gave us the following advice, “When your model tries this on I would definitely compare photos side by side to judge body length, hem band level and shoulder. This style is much more proportion driven rather than a numeric conversion.” With this in mind we sought fit feedback from our plus size fit model.


Marden shirt pattern - version 1 feedback

We weren’t surprised to hear Marden G-P version 1 was much too wide in the body, as this was something we were already on the lookout for. The extra width in the body impacted the length of the shoulder seam (making the shoulder seam far too long). Because of this, the armscye was basically at the model’s elbow, which then resulted in the sleeve causing restriction in movement.

The other issue that was raised by our fit model was that the hemline was riding up in the front and dragging down at the back, and she suggested the addition of bust darts to improve the fit. Our patternmaker agreed that ‘it will continue to fall back without a dart as an anchor point’. This is when it becomes a truly collaborative process - a conversation between me, the designer, the person that makes it happen from a technical standpoint, the pattern maker and the wearer / end user, our fit model.

Side note: We’ve included images of pattern pieces from both size ranges. The pattern pieces from the G-P range are not formatted to their final state in this image as this is not the final pattern. This is what the pattern looks like when we receive it back from the patternmaker, before it’s finalised and gets formatted for printing.

Marden shirt pattern - version 2 pattern

With our patternmaker and fit model feedback at front of mind, we decided to slim our design down (mostly through the chest and shoulders) and add a bust dart. The decision to take some width out of the body would also help with the shoulder length issue. Then, it was back to our fit model to check that the fit had improved and that the pattern still had the same look and feeling as the original pattern.

As you can see when comparing the versions, width has been taken out through the bust and chest, which has reduced the shoulder seam length. A bust dart was added and some length to the upper panel to accommodate the bust, but you will see as you read on, we removed this additional length in the final version as it was not required.

Marden shirt pattern - version 2 feedback

With the major overhaul of the shirt, we’d unfortunately gone too far and taken out too much width from the shoulders. This changed the slope of the shoulder so much that the armscye became too small, or as our fit model said, restrictive. The thing is, if you don’t try, you don’t know, so even though it may feel like wasted time (especially when we have a strict deadline - our Curated subscription monthly release), this is actually a really important part of the design process.

Marden shirt pattern - version 3 pattern

The major change for version 3 was to alter the slope of the shoulder seam, which would then change the shape and size of the armscye, solving the restriction in the armhole that our fit model mentioned. Although it doesn’t look like a major difference between the pattern pieces, if you look at the armhole lengths, you can see there is a considerable difference. In comparison, the version 3 armhole is 6cm larger than the version 2 armhole - most of this on the back. 

Marden shirt pattern - version 3 feedback

Fit model: “I think we have a winner!”

Phew - what a relief it was to receive that email!

It was at this point that I did a final check between the initial size 10 sample (our sample size for our A-J range) on the body in comparison to the size 24 on our fit model and noticed that the panel line was sitting too low in the extended range, so the patternmaker raised it by 5cm, as I mentioned earlier.

Marden shirt - Size J (from A - J range)

Marden shirt - Size J (from G - P range)

Pattern pieces from the two ranges nested together

The final pattern

As you can see from this process, designing a pattern is very much a collaborative process, and even more so now that we are working with two different pattern blocks. I really appreciate the skills and insight our pattern design collaborators have, because without their input we simply couldn’t create the patterns that we have today.

If you have any questions about this process, we’d love to answer them, so please leave them in the comments section below.

Happy sewing,

Emily

IMPROVE YOUR PRECISION SEWING WITH OUR
pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

OUR TOP TIPS FOR ACCURATE SEWING

This month in Curated by ITF we’re focusing on learning the skills and techniques required to sew structured shirts with the Sewing Shirts Skills Kit, part one in our latest project series that covers everything you need to know to sew (and hack!) shirts.

One of the main things to keep in mind when sewing shirts is how important it is to sew precisely. Think about the points of the collar, the ‘house’ shape that makes the sleeve placket, the fold of the button placket… There are so many elements to a shirt that must all come together precisely and neatly in order to make a beautifully finished garment. Focusing on accuracy when sewing each individual element of a shirt will go a long way towards sewing a garment that looks like it’s been made by a professional!

If you’re ready to step-up your skills and the look of your me-mades by sewing more accurately, here are the areas you should focus on.

FABRIC

Selecting the right fabric for the garment you’re making is very important - so much so that it can make or break the finished outcome. If you’ve made a few garments by now, you’ve probably experienced the disappointment of finishing a garment and realising that the fabric has let you down.

When choosing fabric there’s a few things to keep in mind: How well does the fabric press? Is it bulky? Does it fray easily? Does it stretch? These factors will make some fabrics more difficult to work with than others, so do yourself a favour and select a fabric suitable for the project. Not sure how to do this? Take a look in your wardrobe or favourite clothing store for inspiration - what types of fabrics are your favourite shirts made from?

In general, cotton is a very stable fabric to work with, plus its breathable and presses well. As a result, it’s the most commonly used fabric for shirt making. We recommend it for these same reasons, and particularly if you are new to sewing shirts, but you may also like to consider shirting, poplin, twill, gabardine, lawn, chambray or flannel. 

Whatever fabric you choose, sewing samplers (like we’re doing this month with our Sewing Shirts Skills Kit or with our Pants Sewing Skills Kit, part one of our Pants Making Series) gives you the perfect opportunity to test out fabric before cutting out a whole garment. Samplers give you the opportunity to see how the fabric handles when it is cut, pressed and sewn. And the best part? They give you a chance to change your mind!

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TOOLS

As with any creative endeavour, there are a multitude of tools you can incorporate into your sewing practice. Apart from a good pair of sharp scissors (which is an absolute must-have) we prefer to keep things simple and make do with the basics, because it can get quite expensive buying all the gadgets. 

If you’re interested, a few things you might like to add to your toolbox that may make sewing shirts (and other garments) easier and sometimes more accurate include a sleeve board or sleeve pressing ham (one or the other is enough), buttonhole foot, an expanding sewing gauge for marking buttonholes, buttonhole cutter, corner turner, Fray Check and starch.

Don’t feel like you need to rush out and buy these tools all at once. They are things you can gradually add to your collection over time and, if you’re lucky, may also be found in thrift or second hand stores for a bargain. 

CUTTING

Cutting your garment accurately is one of the best ways you can set yourself up for success as it is almost impossible to sew a garment precisely if it has not been cut accurately first. The following tips will improve the outcome of your cutting practise.

  • Always pre-wash your fabric. Use the settings and method you will use when you wash the finished garment. 

  • Iron your fabric before you start.

  • Spread it out on a large flat surface. I know this one can be a bit tricky if space is limited, so if this is the case, consider cutting the pattern in sections so that you can get the fabric as flat as possible.

  • If you’re cutting a fabric that is very delicate or likely to move around in the cutting process, consider cutting between layers of paper.

  • Use pattern weights to hold pattern pieces in place.

  • When cutting stripes, it’s even more important to cut the fabric accurately or you won't be able to match the stripes when sewing. To start, you will want to cut the pieces 'flat' rather than on the fold. This means that you need to create a full pattern piece or cut out half and then carefully flip the piece to cut the other side. Cutting flat also helps when working with fabrics that are slippery, stretch easily or are likely to move.

  • If a pattern is cut on the fold, finger press the fold (or use an iron) so that the edge of the pattern sits exactly where it should.

  • Use very sharp scissors.

  • Keep pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you are ready to use the particular piece to prevent stretching.

  • Take your time! Remind yourself that cutting can take almost as long as sewing the garment, and doing it right will set you up for success. To make the process more enjoyable, listen to a podcast or put something easy on Netflix to play in the background. 

SEWING

If you’ve followed all our recommendations above, you’ve gone a long way towards creating a garment that will have a beautiful finish at the end. But, there’s still a lot you can do to make sure! Here’s what you can do to improve your sewing accuracy.

  • Change your needle before starting a new project.

  • Sew some samplers to practise any techniques that are new to you, and to test out how your machine and thread handle a particular fabric.

  • Never skip the pressing! Your iron is your best friend when it comes to precision sewing. 

  • Have your seam ripper handy. (Don’t worry, we all make mistakes and it’s part of the process.) 

  • Use staystitching to prevent the fabric stretching. The most common areas to staystitch are areas that are curved or cut on the bias such as necklines and armholes in sleeveless garments. 

  • Use the hand wheel to walk your stitches in. This is the best way to land exactly on a specific point. Also use the hand wheel if you need to start a row of stitching at a specific point.

  • Use pins to ensure your pieces line up accurately before sewing. If you place your pins perpendicular to the seam you are sewing (with the pinhead on the outside) they are easy to remove as you sew.

TAKE BREAKS

My biggest tip is not a handy tool or a special sewing technique. It’s the reminder that it is a good idea to take your time when sewing. Take breaks when you need them. Don’t rush it. Even though everything around us may be trying to tell us the opposite, it’s not a race to the end. We can sew for the sheer enjoyment of the process. It’s ok to just enjoy the process and take the focus off the finished product! 

If you’ve made a couple of mistakes or are getting frustrated, set your project aside and take a breather. Have a cup of tea, go for a walk, or even better, put it down until tomorrow. Fresh eyes and a clear brain does the world of good when it comes to sewing accurately.

If you’re really feeling annoyed with your project, chat about it with someone in your sewing community, because it’s always good to remember that you’re not alone when you hit a hurdle. And, if you haven’t got a sewing community, that’s another great reason to join Curated by ITF! We have a fantastic and very encouraging community of Foldies who are just waiting for another person to nerd out and chat about precision sewing with!

Happy sewing,

Emily

IMPROVE YOUR PRECISION SEWING WITH OUR
pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

WHY WE CREATED OUR SEWING PROJECT SERIES IN CURATED BY ITF

When we can, we like to share with you something that happens behind the scenes of In the Folds. This month, in our sewing subscription Curated by ITF, we released the Sewing Shirts Skills Kit, the first part of a three-part shirt making series, so we thought it would be a great opportunity to tell you a bit more about what goes into creating one of our project series.

WHERE IT ALL STARTED

First, I want to go way back to the beginning and talk about the mission behind Curated by ITF. For a number of years I was creating patterns and releasing them as standalone patterns, and although I got a kick out of the whole process, it always felt like something was missing, particularly on launch day. After working tirelessly on a new pattern for months, launch day tended to feel like I was just pushing it out into the world and hoping for the best. 

This is partly the nature of running a digital business. Although it’s amazing being able to create a product that people all over the world can buy, and it was a thrill to see names I recognised pop up as patterns were purchased or when someone used the hashtag and shared their make on Instagram, overall I felt very disconnected from the makers who were supporting my business. 

After a while I noticed the disconnection went beyond launch day and that I felt the same way when working through the design process for new projects. I had a very clear vision of what In the Folds was about and who it was for, but not being able to speak directly to my community and check-in and ask what they wanted was leaving me feeling a little empty.

CURATED BY ITF WAS BORN

Fast-forward countless conversations, many daydreaming sessions, and the hire of the brilliant Alys, and Curated by ITF was born. I had found a way to make what I did not just about the release of patterns, but also the creation of a community. A community that not only wanted to sew, but wanted to learn new skills and develop their practice, one project at a time. 

When I write it out like that, it seems so clear and so simple what Curated by ITF is, but in all honesty, when we first launched I couldn’t have summed it up like that. Because at that point, right at the start of Curated, we were doing the exact same thing I had done when releasing a pattern in the past - creating a product for a particular audience and hoping they would ‘get’ it.

Now, 26 (26!!) projects in, Curated has become what our customers want. It is no longer an idea that I came up with, but a response to the needs of our community. By having an online community platform as part of the subscription it means we can (and do!) talk to our community on a daily basis. It means that we can see their struggles, their challenges and their wins. What they’re working on, what they’re aspiring to. It means that we can create our content in direct response to the needs of our community. And with that, the empty feeling I used to feel as I sat alone at my laptop when I made a new pattern live on my website has disappeared. It’s been replaced with a new feeling, an excitement about serving our community and an anticipation to hear what they think about the new project and see what they make. 

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I must say that the odds feel higher now, but what makes it worthwhile is all the beautiful faces of our community members that I can see in my head as I sit alone at my laptop working on the next project.

So this now brings me to the development of our series. When we first started rolling out projects to our community, I had a ‘more, more, more’ attitude. I was constantly thinking about how much more content we could serve our community, how many more patterns and resources we could deliver. Because that’s what we’re told we have to do. Always do more.

But then we started to notice something. 

Members of our community were starting to feel overwhelmed, because they felt like they were falling behind or failing. And that was the last thing we wanted our community to feel! We wanted them to feel excited and inspired and supported to learn new skills without feeling overwhelmed.

WHAT OUR MEMBERS ACTUALLY WANT

And that’s when we realised the true superpower of a monthly project subscription. Each month’s pattern or resource didn’t need to be a standalone product. It could form part of a series, which meant we didn’t have to limit the amount of content we shared, but could do it in a more manageable way that didn’t overwhelm our members. Because there was something else we had learned about our community in this time - they weren’t looking for quick and easy projects that they could finish in an hour or two. They wanted to learn and challenge themselves in new ways. They wanted to geek out about sewing and dive into the nitty gritty with us and understand the ‘why’ behind all that we do.

With the ability to release projects as a series, we can now focus on the skills we want our community to learn in a particular month and can help them learn those skills in the most straightforward ways with the least distractions. For example, this month we’re learning all about the specific sewing skills required for sewing shirts. Sewing shirts is about accuracy and precision. It’s about selecting the right fabric and the right interfacing. It’s about carefully cutting your fabric and sewing and pressing your seams carefully. 

By focusing on sewing shirt samplers this month, we can minimise the noise. We’re not getting distracted about fit, or rushing the process to make a completed shirt. We’re slowing it down and starting with the foundations so we can enjoy the learning process itself. Sewing a sleeve placket for the first time (or even the fifth time) can be a little bit daunting when it needs to become part of a shirt. By sewing it as a sampler, the stakes are much lower and the focus can be on the learning. Sewing a collar for the first time and attaching it to a shirt that has taken hours to make can also be daunting. It can be disconcerting to trim something when you’re not absolutely certain you’re doing it right! Again, doing this as a sampler first means you can gain that confidence so when you’re doing it on a shirt you intend on wearing you are already familiar with the techniques and the process. You know where to trim because you’ve practised it. 

By focusing on sewing techniques in the first month of the project, it means that we can release a shirt pattern next month and know that our community is ready for it. They’ll be prepared for the challenge both mentally and technically and can go into the next project with confidence. And, it means they can focus on different things next month - picking the right fabric, choosing the right size and working out what alterations they may need to make to the pattern. 

There are some really fun bits to sew in the Marden shirt pattern (coming in October!), that we hope our community will feel excited about because they have gained confidence with precision sewing this month through their shirt samplers.

After two months of sewing shirts with the Sewing Shirts Skills Kit and the Marden shirt pattern, our community will have a solid understanding of the components that make up a traditional shirt, as well as what they like, what they don’t like, and what they’re looking for in their dream shirt. And that’s when we’ll release Part Three of the series, giving them an opportunity (and the support they need!) to get creative and push the boundaries of their patternmaking skills with the Marden shirt Hack Kit.

I hope this helps to answer any questions you might have about Curated by ITF, and we welcome you to come and experience our wonderful sewing community by purchasing a subscription today!

Happy sewing!

Emily

check out our pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…