THE Q & A SERIES
Changing a high-low hem to a straight hem
Hello from France,
I want to make the Collins top but I would like the front and back to be the same length. Is it possible? How can I make the changes? Can you help me?
Thank you.
Liliane
At In the Folds it is our mission to help sewists make clothes that will be worn, loved and cherished. A big part of this is empowering makers by teaching them the skills to alter pattern fit and style to better suit their needs.
When altering the design of a pattern, we call this ‘pattern hacking'.
What is pattern hacking?
Pattern hacking means that you use an existing pattern to draft a new pattern.
This could mean just making small changes, such as adding a pocket or changing the neckline. It could also mean making large-scale changes, such as adding a sleeve to a sleeveless pattern or combining multiple patterns to create an entirely new design.
Why pattern hack?
The main benefit of pattern hacking is that it saves time! This is because you can take a pattern that you already know fits you well and create a new design. You don't need to dive back into assessing the fit all over again, as you have already done that work with the original pattern.
For large-scale hacks you may still need to make some fit alterations after checking your toile, but these will be far fewer than if you had started with a new pattern.
Pattern hacking also increases the longevity of a pattern, which ultimately saves you money. For example, you may see a garment style that you like somewhere, and with some pattern hacking skills up your sleeve, you will be able to adapt a pattern that you already have in your stash, rather than buying another pattern.
Another reason you might choose to hack a pattern is that sometimes it is difficult to know what changes you would like to make until after you have spent some time wearing it. You may start to think, 'If only it was a bit longer...' or 'If only it had pockets...' Pattern hacking gives you a chance to make the clothing you want to wear without needing to draft patterns from scratch.
Pattern hacking is also a great opportunity to learn patternmaking skills and build on these skills gradually over time. Like any new skill or hobby getting good at it will take time! Be patient and enjoy the process. After all, that's what it's all about!
In the Folds Collins top
The Collins top is a loose-fitting trapeze-shaped top designed for woven fabrics and is perfect for hot summer days!
One of the main features of the Collins top is that it has a high-low hem. This means that the front is shorter than the back. But, with a few pattern hacking skills, you can alter the hem so that it is the same length around the whole top.
You can choose to add length to the front (so that the whole top is the same length as the back) or remove length from the back (so the whole top is the same length as the front). We suggest looking at the product photos to work out your preference. Or, compare the length of the centre front panel pattern piece to a top you already own.
Whatever you decide, this tutorial will show you how to achieve both options.
First steps of changing a high-low hem to a straight hem
Step 1
Due to the panel lines in the top, we first need to put the pieces together as if they have been sewn so that we have a full front piece and a full back piece.
Place the front panels together as if they have been sewn - STITCH LINE on STITCH LINE. (Stitch lines are the grey lines on In the Folds patterns). Tape or pin in place. If taping, use small pieces of tape that can be easily removed (eg. magic tape).
Repeat for the 3 back panel pieces.
Step 2
Place the front and back together at the side seam. You will need to flip the front to do this. Line up the pieces at the top of the side seam.
Rotate the front so that the CENTRE FRONT and CENTRE BACK are aligned. Remember the CENTRE BACK has seam allowance - this is why only the pieces that will be cut on the fold line up.
Measure the length between the front and back hems at the CENTRE FRONT / CENTRE BACK. Record the amount.
Step 3
Flip the front back over and line up the pieces at the side seam STITCH LINE as if they have been joined.
If removing length from the back, move to STEP 8. If adding length to the front, continue to Step 4.
Lengthening the front of the Collins top
Step 4
Tape/glue pieces of pattern paper to the bottom of each pattern piece that will be lengthened (front panels and side back panel). Make sure you’re attaching the paper to each individual piece, as you will be separating the pieces back into panels after making the alteration.
Extend the CENTRE FRONT by the amount you will be lengthening the front by (found in Step 2).
Step 5
Re-draw the hemline with a smooth curve from the new CENTRE FRONT hem point. You want the line to transition back into the original hem around the back panel line. The new hemline needs to meet the CENTRE FRONT at a right angle. This ensures a smooth line when the piece is cut on the fold. It might take a couple of attempts to create the curve you want. Use a pencil so you can erase it and try again if you need to. We suggest drawing curves with broken lines as it makes it easier to get an accurate line.
Step 6
Extend the panel lines onto the attached paper. Be sure to extend the STITCH LINE, rather than the edge of the pattern pieces.
Step 7
Separate the panel pieces and add seam allowance onto the new lines. Cut along the new lines to remove excess paper.
Due to how much the FRONT SIDE PANEL piece has changed, rotate the piece slightly so that the hem sits closer to a straight line. Alter the grainline to reflect this.
The pattern is now complete and you’re ready to get sewing!
Shortening the back of the Collins top
Step 8
Measuring up from the CENTRE BACK hem, mark the amount to remove from the back length (found in Step 2).
Step 9
Re-draw the hem line with a smooth curve from the new CENTRE BACK hem line. You will want the line to transition back into the original hem around the front panel line.
The new hemline needs to meet the CENTRE BACK at a right angle. This ensures a smooth line when the piece is cut on the fold. It might take a couple of attempts to create the curve you want. Use a pencil so you erase it and try again if you need to. Cut along the new hemline to remove the excess length.
Separate the panel pieces and you’re ready to cut the pattern from fabric.
We hope this tutorial got you thinking about all the different ways you can adjust a pattern to make it your own!
Happy hacking!
Emily
RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE
More info about Curated by ITF can be found here.
Barkly skirt Hack Kit is currently only available with a Curated by In The Folds subscription for the month of July 2022. During this time it can be found here. It will be released as a standalone resource in the future.
Collins top pattern can be found here.
How to add seam allowance to a sewing pattern tutorial can be found here.
For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.
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