Hi Emily,

I am several inches shorter than the average "petite" size range, but also curvy. My whole life I've had multiple issues fitting clothes that I buy off the rack, so I've finally decided to make them instead. Given my significant size range and deviations from "average", how would I go about grading a pattern to fit me? Some persistent fit problems are: the shoulder slips off just about every top I own and my trousers go WAY up my belly and land just below my bust. These issues only happen with ready to wear clothing. I just don't know where to start with grading patterns to eliminate the problems.

Shari

Hi Shari,

It sounds like sewing your own clothes is a great solution to the problems you are having with ready to wear! I am sure it will be very liberating for you to be able to make your own clothes and not deal with those frustrating issues anymore.

GETTING STARTED

What I suggest you do is just start with one pattern and work on getting a really good fit, before moving onto anything else. The reason for this is that it is common to do the same alterations on all sewing patterns. Especially if you are working with the same brand of pattern. So once you know your go-to alterations, it will be much easier to start on new patterns.

If you're new to sewing, I'd suggest starting with a top, as pants can be a little trickier to fit. I'd also suggest starting with something that is not too fitted. This will give you a chance to familiarise yourself with the fitting process, before moving onto more challenging projects. If you were to try an In the Folds pattern to start with, I'd suggest the Ruffle sleeve top. It ticks the boxes for a beginner friendly project, as it's not fitted, but will give you a chance to try out a few things. It also has sleeves - another good thing to learn how to fit.

BUST ADJUSTMENT

The first thing you will need to consider when making tops is your high bust adjustment. It sounds like you may have a large bust in comparison to your shoulders (I'd say this is what is causing your shoulder straps to slip off. It sounds like you are needing to go up a size so that a top will fit your bust, but the upper section of the top no longer fits).

By choosing a size in relation to your high bust measurement, you will be getting the fit you need at the neckline and shoulders, and then can add the bust width you need by doing a full bust adjustment. This is a good post that will familiarise you with the concept and give you a range of examples: four essential bust adjustments.

CHECKING LENGTH

Before going ahead and cutting your pattern (after making the full bust adjustment), I'd suggest you then look at the length, as that sounds like it is something else that is causing issues for you with ready to wear.

You need to mark the bust line and waist line on the pattern (more info on that here: How to Find the Bust, Waist and Hip on a Sewing Pattern) and then compare this to your own body. What I suggest you do, is just wearing underwear (or tight jersey clothing), tie a thin piece of elastic around these points on your body, then take measurements between them. Record the measurements and then compare these to the pattern.

Be sure to also check the shoulder to bust measurement (to get this one, it can be handy to put on a tight t-shirt, so that you have a seam line on your shoulder to measure from). Then you are going to need to shorten the pattern in relation to your findings. If you find that your shoulder to bust is 1cm (3/8in) shorter than the pattern, then you are going to need to remove 1cm (3/8in) length from this section. You can find guidance on shortening a pattern here. Keep in mind that if you need to shorten the area above the bust on a top with a sleeve, this will also impact the sleeve and you will need to remove this same amount of length from the sleeve cap.

SELECTING THE CORRECT SIZE

For more information about sizing, I'd suggest you have a look at this post on my website: Selecting the correct size.

I hope I haven't overwhelmed you! The key to this will be just focusing on one project at a time and focusing on one fit adjustment at a time. I'd also say that making lots of toiles (rather than finished garments) will help you start to learn what you need to look for.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Ruffle sleeve top can be found here.
Four essential bust adjustments. Tutorial can be found here.
How to Find the Bust, Waist and Hip on a Sewing Pattern. Article can be found here.
How to shorten a pattern. Tutorial can be found here.
Selecting the correct size. Post can be found here.
How to (and why) make a toile. Post can be found here.

P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

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