THE Q & A SERIES

Tools for patternmaking

I’ve sewn clothes off and on with store-bought patterns. I am now just beginning to learn to draft my own patterns! In the Folds has been a wonderful resource — thank you for your generosity in sharing your wealth of knowledge!

My question is about French curves. I’m assuming it would be a good tool to purchase. But there are so many different types and sets out there. What would be good to start with as I begin learning pattern drafting?

Thank you!

- Laura, Taylors USA

Hi Laura,

It is great to hear that you have been learning how to draft your own patterns!

This is a great question. There are so many tools out there for sewing and patternmaking, that it can get overwhelming. It's easy to think we need all the tools to get started, but I am a big fan of making it work with just a few.

A French curve is a great one to have in your patternmaking kit although there are ways to mark beautiful curves with a regular patternmaking ruler - so I will show you my pick of French curves and then tell you about how you can make it work with a regular grading ruler, if that is your preference.

French curve

A French curve is a handy tool for drawing necklines, armholes, side seams, waist lines and sleeve caps (and any curve a pattern has for that matter). If you find it tricky to draw smooth curves, this might just be the tool you need in your patternmaking toolbox! I like this style of French curve as it has all the shapes you could ever need for patternmaking in the one tool - straight edge for marking straight lines and adding seam allowance - soft curve for things like hip curves and waist lines and the more extreme curve for armholes and necklines. It is also flexible, which makes it nice and easy to use.

Another option for curves is a Patternmaster. I use my French curve a lot more than my Patternmaster, but I know there are many patternmakers who use a Patternmaster for everything.

Grading ruler

My grading ruler is my most used patternmaking tool. To get started with patternmaking, you can use any ruler you already have, but a grading ruler will make your life a lot easier. A grading ruler is long (so you can draw nice long lines in one go), transparent (great for adding seam allowance) and flexible (perfect for measuring and marking curves).

Although I do use my French curve sometimes, in general, I use my grading ruler for everything - including marking curves. You can see how do this in this video here that I made recently for our Curated by ITF community.

I hope this post helps you on your patternmaking journey!

Happy drafting,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Marking curves with a straight ruler. Video can be found here.
Curated by In the Folds - monthly project and supportive community group. Details can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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