Spotlight: Failing Forward - What it really means for makers

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We recently saw a comment from one of our members pop up in our Curated by ITF community that stopped us in our tracks:

““I embodied the motto ‘failing forward’ over and over again while doing this. Every time it didn’t work, I learned something, and by the end (is there ever actually an end?) I ended up with things that fit and I learned SO SO MUCH about pattern drafting and alterations.  Absolutely priceless! Is it easy? No, I won’t tell you that, but it’s very doable and totally worth it.””

— Rachael, Curated by ITF member

At In the Folds, we often talk about sewing as a practice, not just a product or outcome. 

And this? This is the practice in action. Failing forward isn’t about avoiding mistakes - it’s about moving through them with curiosity. It’s about learning, not just making.

We did a little digging to understand where this term came from.

What does ‘failing forward’ actually mean?

The term was popularised by leadership expert John C. Maxwell in his 2000 book Failing Forward: Turning Mistakes into Stepping Stones for Success. The central idea is that failure isn’t the opposite of success. It’s part of it. What separates people who grow from those who stay stuck is how they respond to things going wrong.

Maxwell writes: “The difference between average people and achieving people is their perception of and response to failure.”

And this mindset? It applies just as much to creative practice as it does to leadership. Whether you’re learning to alter a pattern, trying a new technique, or sewing with a tricky fabric for the first time, let me tell you, there will be stumbles. The key is to see those moments not as setbacks, but as progress. 

What failing forward might look like in your sewing practice

A crotch curve that doesn’t fit correctly the first time?
Call it a wearable toile and do some experiments with altering the curve. Or the many other things you can do to alter the outcome of a crotch curve.

A garment that looks nothing like you imagined due to the drape of the fabric? 
Now you understand more about fabric and how it drapes on the body.

A bodice that doesn't quite fit? 
Now you know where to adjust in future.

A tricky fabric that ends up puckered or stretched? 
Next time, you could try a different needle or seam finish.

A fly that you sew 15 times… (Can you tell I am speaking from experience?)
It leaves you knowing you chose the best technique to use going forward.

Each of these ‘failures’ moves you forward—if you let them and don’t give up!

There’s No Final DESTINATION CALLED SEWING Mastery

Rachael, the Foldie who said this in our group to encourage the community, said it perfectly: “Is there ever actually an end?”

Sewing, like any craft, is an ongoing relationship. You’re never done learning. I’ve been at it for 28 years and I am still learning daily! 

But that’s the point, right? There is no finish line, only a deeper understanding of the process, your preferences, and your skills.

I see this in our community every day. Makers who keep showing up. Who ask questions. Who try something new, even if it doesn’t go perfectly. Who make mistakes, but keep making.

That’s what Curated is all about.

Not the end result, but the steps we take to create a garment.

The trying. The tinkering. The learning.

So if you’re feeling stuck, or like something just didn’t work the way you hoped, remember this: you’re not doing it wrong. You’re doing it bravely. You’re doing it honestly. You’re moving forward, even if it doesn’t feel like it most of the time.

Keep up the great work!

Emily

Spotlight: Choosing the right project for your skill level (and how to level up!)

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With Make It With Us in May in full swing, we’re inviting you to choose any pattern from the In the Folds archive. But with so many options, it can be hard to know where to begin.

So, this month’s Spotlight post is here to help!

We believe that sewing is more enjoyable — and more sustainable — when you meet yourself right where you are, then build your skills slowly and intentionally. Whether you’re just starting out or you’ve been making for years, choosing the right project for THIS moment can make all the difference.

How to find the perfect pattern for where you’re at — and where you’re headed

Here are a few ways to decide what to make this month (or whenever you are looking for your next project):

1. Reflect on your recent makes

What felt really satisfying? What left you stuck or frustrated? Look for a pattern that builds on the skills you already have, with one or two new techniques to try.

The key here is focusing on just a couple of new techniques at a time. For example, when we designed the Darlow bag we knew it had more than a few techniques that would be new to many —the zip insertion, working with hardware and piecing together fairly complex shaped pattern pieces, to name a few! But because it’s a bag and you don’t need to worry about fit. Therefore, it makes sense as a skill-building project that will stretch your skills without completely overwhelming you.

Projects like this or our Hove tote pattern (above) are really good options if you want to sharpen up your precision sewing without worrying about getting the right fit.

2. Start with your strengths

If you’re confident with woven fabrics but new to garment construction, something like the Collins top or Acton dress is a great entry point.

Reach for the Collins top if you prefer not to worry about fit. The shape of it means that most people won’t need to think about fitting alterations. The major fitting alterations makers have made to this pattern are to add length or changing it from a high-low hem to a straight hem. 

3. Choose your own adventure

Maybe your goal is to make a matching set, create your first outerwear piece, or try lining a garment for the first time. We say, go for it! Sometimes you just need to take a step of faith and believe that you can do something!

But you don’t have to do it entirely alone. Our patterns and resources are made to support you step-by-step, and our community is here to cheer you on.

4. Sew for the season (or your lifestyle)

Sometimes the best place to start is your wardrobe. Sounds counter-intuitive, right? But considering what you already have is a great place to understand how and what you actually wear!

Start by asking yourself the following questions: What do you reach for often? What are the pieces you’ve noticed are missing from your wardrobe?

Think about designs that will get a lot of wear. Whether that’s comfy culottes for weekend adventures or a crisp button-up for layering, pieces that you can mix and match or layer up and down according to the season will always get more use!

If you need more help delving into wardrobe gaps and how to fill these gaps intentionally, I suggest looking at our Slow Sewing Planner. 

5. Ask the community!

If you’re still not sure, why don’t you ask for help in the community group? It’s one thing taking advice from us, but a whole other thing to get advice from people who are just like you!

However you join us this May, we’re so glad to be making alongside you. Here’s to learning, experimenting, and sewing with joy and intention!

Happy sewing,

Emily

SPOTLIGHT: WORKING IN SMALL SCALE

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When I was given my sewing and patternmaking kit in my first year at university, it included all the tools I would need for my patternmaking and construction classes. It had an array of different rulers, a tracing wheel, stiletto (also called an awl), pattern notchers, machine needles, a bobbin and bobbin case, pin cushion, tweezers… and the list goes on.

One of the rulers was a small ruler with markings I didn’t quite understand. On closer inspection I realised it was a third scale ruler. It was marked so that it could be used like a regular ruler, except the markings were in 3rd scale, where 5cm was actually 1.7cm etc. 

At university we had huge work tables to do patternmaking, but at home many of us just had a small desk. By working in third scale, we were able to practice our learnings at home in a smaller space, using less materials. It also meant that we could put our work in a binder and see at a glance what the technique was about - rather than folding up a huge full scale pattern that would have to be taken out of a plastic sleeve to see what it was about.

Although I don’t use third scale patterns in my drafting process anymore, I often return to the principle of it. If I need to figure something out, I print the pattern at a small scale and give it a go. For this purpose, it doesn’t need to be exact as I’m just using it to help me figure things out. For example, it’s very helpful for deciding where a design line could go, or understanding how a bust adjustment will work on a particular pattern. It’s also very useful when I receive customer service questions about alterations, because I can give it a go before passing on my advice.

Working in small scale can be used as a fitting tool or a design tool, or a mixture of both.

SMALL SCALE PATTERNS AS A FITTING TOOL

When sewing a pattern, you may decide to do a particular fitting alteration that you’ve never done before. Working in small scale gives you a chance to do a practice run and figure things out. It’s also great to have with you when working in full scale as you can refer back to it.

Small scale patterns as a design tool

There’s less at stake when working in small scale. It’s easy to try different approaches - different dart location, different panel line positions etc - because you can always print another copy. You might surprise yourself and come up with something really interesting just by cutting into the pattern!

As I was working on this tutorial I came up with the idea of moving the dart to the neckline and transforming it into a princess seam. This wasn’t my plan when I started but the idea came to me as I was working and suddenly I’m excited at the idea of a princess panel running from the neck, through the bust to the waist.

You can even sew up small scale examples in fabric if you want to! But be mindful that the seam allowance gets very small. You may prefer to add a bit more seam allowance onto your mini patterns to make the sewing process easier.

How to create a small scale pattern

We include small scale patterns in our Hack Kits (like this month’s Jacob dress Hack Kit) so it’s ready to go, but if you are working with a pattern that does not have this, here’s what you need to do:

1. Open the A0 file, choose a size (it doesn’t really matter which one) and turn off all the other layers. Adjust the size in print settings to ‘fit to page’ and print.

2. Use a ruler and pencil to draw in the alteration lines as you would in full scale.

3. Cut into your pattern and experiment.

4. Take photos as you go so you can refer back to them when working in full scale later on.
   

The advantages of working in small scale:

• Saves resources – Testing on a small scale reduces paper and even fabric waste, especially when experimenting with complex design changes.

• Saves time – Making adjustments on a smaller pattern is much faster than working with a full-size version, allowing for quicker and multiple iterations.

• Easier to visualise design changes – A scaled-down version helps you see the overall silhouette and proportion before committing to a full-size alteration.

• Reduces cost – Since you use less fabric and other materials, small-scale tests are a budget-friendly way to explore new ideas.

• Encourages learning and skill-building  – You can practice tricky techniques, like bust adjustments or drafting princess panels without having to work in full scale. This can go even further and also be done in fabric to practice new skills like: pleats, gathers, or draping, without the full effort of a life-size garment.

• Encourages creativity – Since it’s a lower-stakes process, small-scale prototyping can encourage more creative risk-taking. 

• Helps with pattern drafting adjustments – If you're making structural changes to a pattern, a small-scale test lets you check proportions and relationships between pattern pieces before committing to a full-size draft.

What do you think? Can you imagine using this technique in your sewing practice?