THE Q & A SERIES - HOW TO INCREASE BICEP WIDTH ON A SLEEVE - PART 1

Hi Emily,

I'd like to know how to increase sleeve bicep width. I've made grainline uniform several times with what I think is the right way to increase the sleeve but am not completely happy with the results.

Thanks,

Kerrie

Kenthurst, Australia.

Hi Kerrie,

Thank you for the question. I am happy to show you to do a full bicep adjustment on a sleeve pattern.

WHEN TO MAKE THIS ADJUSTMENT

You will need to make a full bicep adjustment to a sleeve pattern if you feel that the bicep section of your sleeve is too tight or bunching around your bicep. You can work this out by making a toile / muslin to check, or by measuring the bicep on your sleeve pattern piece and comparing it to your bicep measurement (and adding ease).

To work out the bicep width on your pattern, draw a straight line across your sleeve pattern - from the top of the underseam on one side to the top of the underseam on the other. Be sure to mark this line on the stitch line (the grey line on In the Folds patterns), so that you don't include the seam allowance in your measurement. Measure the line and take note of the measurement.

Wrap a tape measure around your bicep - usually the widest part of your arm.

Compare the two measurements. You will also want to include some ease (the difference between your body measurement and the pattern). The amount of ease will depend on the pattern, the intended fit and the fabric it is designed to be made from.

For this example, I am using the Peppermint wrap top pattern. The wrap top is intended to be quite relaxed in fit, so there is quite a lot of ease in the pattern overall. There is approximately 10cm (4in) ease in the sleeve. Consider how much ease you would like to have in the bicep area of your sleeve.

For example, if there is only a 2cm (3/4in) difference between your bicep measurement and the bicep measurement on your sleeve and you want 5cm (2in) ease in the bicep of your pattern, you will need to add 3cm (1 1/4in) to your bicep width.

If you would like to add up to 2.5cm/3cm, you can follow this tutorial. If you need to add more than this amount, you can follow this tutorial, but there will be a few extra steps. I had planned to show both methods in this tutorial, but after creating the illustrations, I realised it was going to get far too long! So keep your eye on your inbox for Part 2 of this post next week.

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Step 1
Take the SLEEVE piece from your pattern. If you think you’d like to go back to the original design in the future, I’d suggest tracing a copy to make the alteration on (although you can always re-print from the PDF later down the track if you need to). If you need to add more than 3cm to the bicep width, take a copy of your pattern, you will need the original pattern later on in the tutorial.

Step 2
A. If you haven't already, mark in your bicep line on the pattern piece. To do this, draw a straight line across your sleeve pattern - from the top of the underseam on one side to the top of the underseam on the other.

B. Mark the centre of the BICEP LINE and draw a vertical line through the centre of the line to each side of the pattern piece (making sure that the new line is perpendicular to the BICEP LINE). On this particular pattern, the grainline is marked on the centre of the sleeve piece, so you can simply extend the grainline.

CUT THE PATTERN PIECE

Step 3
Cut along the vertical line marked on the pattern. You won't be able to just cut through from top to bottom, as you need to leave some small "hinges" of paper intact to make the adjustment. To cut this line, without cutting in from the bottom or top, you may choose to fold the pattern in half to access the line, or use a ruler and rotary cutter. You need to cut from the point where the vertical line on the sleeve meets the sleeve cap (on the stitch line) and meets the hem (also on the stitch line). As you approach the stitch line on each end of the line, go nice and slow and stop 1-2mm from the end.

Step 4
Cut across the BICEP LINE, in the same way you cut along the vertical line - stopping 1-2mm from each end.

Step 5
Cut into the seam allowance on both the vertical line and the BICEP LINE, towards the points where you stopped cutting. Leave a small 1-2mm “hinge” of paper at each point (a hinge in this sense is a small bit of paper that allows you to adjust patterns, whilst still keeping the outer edge of the pattern piece intact).

Carefully put your sleeve piece to one side for a moment (it will be quite delicate due to the cuts made).

MAKE THE ALTERATION

Step 6
Take a piece of pattern paper and draw a vertical and a horizontal line (that cross over). The lines need to be longer / wider than the sleeve pattern piece. The horizontal line indicates the BICEP LINE.

Step 7
Take the amount you would like to add to the bicep width of your pattern and divide by 2. Distribute this amount on either side of the vertical line at the BICEP LINE.

For example, I will be adding 2.5cm (1in) to the bicep. That means I need to add 1.2cm (1/2in) at each side.

Step 8
Carefully place your sleeve pattern piece on top of the piece of paper marked in Steps 6-7. Line up the BICEP LINE on the pattern piece with the BICEP LINE on the piece of paper and line up the vertical lines.

Step 9
To make the adjustment, carefully move each side of the pattern out, being very careful to keep everything aligned on the vertical line and BICEP LINE. It can help to put a weight (or just your finger) in the centre of the hem to ensure the pattern remains aligned to the vertical line.

Step 10
As you move the sides of the pattern piece out, you will notice that the top of the sleeve cap starts moving down and the cut sections of your pattern piece begin to overlap - as a space opens up in the centre. Continue moving the sides of your pattern piece out on the BICEP LINE until the edges of the opening meet the points marked in Step 7.

Step 11
Check that the BICEP LINE is now the desired length. Adjust if necessary.

Tape or glue in place.

FINALISE THE PATTERN

Step 12
Smooth out your stitch lines at the points where the adjustment was made by re-drawing the lines. You can use a ruler and a french curve if you have one.

Step 13
Re-draw your seam allowance lines and re-mark notches (if necessary).

And you're done! You now have a sleeve with an extended bicep line. As always, I'd suggest making a toile to check you are happy with the fit of the adjusted pattern.

I'll pop into your inbox next week with Part 2 of this tutorial - how to make the adjustment if you need to add more than 2.5cm-3cm (1in - 1 1/4in).

Happy sewing,

Emily

ASK A QUESTION

resources mentioned in this issue

The Peppermint wrap top pattern can be downloaded for free here.
How to (and why) make a toile. Tutorial can be found here.

P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.

sign-up to receive the weekly q&A in your inbox