Hello Emily,
I would just like to say how easy your Collins top pattern was to sew with.
From printing with layers, professional drafting and markings, concise, well written directions, and clear diagrams, this pattern was a pleasure to use.
The high bust measurement is a great inclusion in the instructions, a great basis to begin with for a better fit. Congratulations on the quality of your design and format.
I was wondering if you could take the time to answer an adjustment question, or direct me to a tutorial on making the length/ depth of the armhole smaller.
My daughter also needs the same adjustment necessary to cover her bra under the arm.
I’m not sure how to adjust the length without affecting the top shoulder panel seam joins at the front and back that form part of the armhole edge. Ideally, I would need to raise the armhole by approx 2-3 cm. The shoulders and chest area fit well in length and width.
Thank you in advance for taking the time to reply to my question.
Chris
Hi Chris,
Thank you for your lovely email. I am thrilled to hear you enjoyed the experience of using the Collins top pattern!
I'm more than happy to help you with this question. It's not too difficult, but there are a few more steps involved than if it was a regular sleeveless top without the panel lines.
redraw the armhole
Step 1
To start we will be putting all the panels of the top together to make a full front pattern piece. Place SIDE FRONT PANEL [2] on the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [1] - stitch line on stitch line (grey line on the pattern) - as if the pieces have been sewn together.
Hold in place with masking tape (or a tape that is easy to remove).
Step 2
Place FRONT SHOULDER PANEL [6] on to the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [1] - again, with stitch line one stitch line (grey line on the pattern) - as if the pieces have been sewn together.
Hold in place with tape.
Step 3
Place a scrap piece of pattern paper under your pattern - around the armhole / top of side seam section. Tape in place.
At the armhole point (where the side seam meets the armhole on the stitch line), extend the side seam by the distance you would like to raise the armhole by.
In the example I have extended the side seam by 3cm / 1 1/4, but this will depend on your preference. Make sure the new line runs at the same angle as the side seam.
Step 4
Re-draw the armhole with a nice smooth curve - joining the top of the new side seam to the original armhole line on the FRONT SHOULDER PANEL [6]. A french-curve will come in handy if you have one, to draw this curve.
redraw panel lines
Step 5
Extend the panel seam line that connects the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [1] and the SIDE FRONT PANEL [2] so that it reaches the new armhole line.
Step 6
Re-draw the line that joins the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [6] and the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [1]. Again - a French curve will come in handy to get a nice smooth curve.
Mark a notch on the new seam line (in a similar position to the original, although does not need to be exact).
trace copies of new pattern pieces
Step 7
Trace your new pattern pieces onto paper by following the new lines and easing back into the original panel lines where they meet. Add seam allowance back on where necessary and be sure to transfer the notches.
Step 8
Repeat the process for the back pattern pieces.
finalising the pattern
Step 9
When making alterations to a pattern, it is always a good idea to check and true the pattern before cutting from fabric.
Step 10
Due to the changes made to the body of the pattern, you will also need to redraft the facing, so it fits the new pattern pieces. You can find a tutorial about how to do that here.
Happy sewing!
Emily
P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.
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