Hello!

I am working on my muslin for the Wrap top and am in need of some advice. I am on Step 16 and am attempting to finish the side seam with the opening for the wrap but do not own a serger. My seam of choice is a French Seam, but it looks like I will need to use a seam method that has the sides pressed open. How do I finish this seam and not seam together the opening?

Thank you,

Lilly

Hi Lilly,

I am pleased to hear you are giving the Wrap top pattern a go!

You're right - due to the need for an opening in the side seam of the Wrap top (it's where the tie is inserted so you can wrap it around and secure the top), you will need a seam finish that allows you to press the seam open.

The seam I'd suggest is the one I call 'turn and straight stitch' - it may have a better name, but I don't know it!

One of the simplest ways to finish a seam is to turn back the raw edge of the seam allowance and stitch. This is a good finish for you to try if you don't own a serger / overlocker and don't have a zig-zag stitch on your regular sewing machine (or would like something a little cleaner).

WHAT’S THIS FINISH FOR?

This finish is suitable for almost all fabrics, although will work better on straight seams, rather than curves. This finish will work best for seams that will be pressed open. Be careful applying this finish to heavyweight fabrics as it will add bulk to the seams.

HOW TO SEW THE SEAM

Pin the pieces you are joining together with right sides together. Stitch with a 1.2cm (½in) seam allowance (or the seam allowance that your pattern specifies).

Press seam allowance open. Carefully turn under the raw edge of the seam allowance on both sides and press. Stitch close to the edge to finish (pin before stitching if you feel the need).

You could also consider trimming the seam edge with pinking shears before turning the seam back. This will prevent fraying.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Wrap top can be found here.

P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

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