Hello,

I have wanted to make Rushcutter for a long time but hesitate because of my narrow hips. In US sizes I am a 4 - 6, in UK sizes a 10 hips 35" / 88.9 cm. How could I lessen the fullness below the waist especially at the front? Too much fullness below doesn't convey the look of the design.

Thank you,

Mary

- Bend, United States

Hi Mary,

I am so pleased you would like to give the Rushcutter pattern a go!

To get started, take the FRONT [1], BACK [2] and SIDE PANEL [3] pieces. Remember to trace a copy of the pattern if you would like to return to the original. You will also need to alter the SIDE POCKET [6] as this attaches to the SIDE PANEL [3].

REDUCE VOLUME

STEP 1
Mark the hip position on the pattern pieces with a horizontal line (perpendicular to the grainline). This doesn't need to be exact. You can find this point by holding the pattern up to your body and marking it. Start with the SIDE PANEL [3] as that will be the easiest to position on your body. Use this hip line to mark onto the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] pieces.

Consider how much volume you would like to remove from each panel piece. As you said in your question, you may choose to remove more volume from the front than the back. As you can see on the pattern pieces, there is more volume at the hem of the front piece.

When you know how much you would like to remove at the hem point on each seam, mark the amount on the hem. Join this point to the original stitch line. Join with a gentle curve so that you don't end up with a point in your seam. As you can see, this is above the hip line. The pattern has a lot of ease at the waist, so you can afford to lose some fullness above the hip line, and allows for a nice smooth transition from the original stitch line to the new stitch line.

STEP 2
You could just smooth out the lines (more on that below), add seam allowance back on and cut off the excess paper, but I'd suggest using the slash and spread technique so that you don't lose your notches. This is also a handy technique that may help you in the future, if reducing volume is a common alteration for you.

For the example, I have made the alteration to the SIDE PANEL [3], as that's the one we'll need for altering the pocket. The method will be the same for the FRONT [1] and BACK [2].

a Cut up the lines marked in STEP 1, until you reach the stitch line. Stop 1-2mm from the stitch line.

b Cut into the seam allowance towards the points you stopped cutting. Stop 1-2mm from the end of the cut line. This will create a small hinge of paper.

STEP 3
a Reduce the volume in the lower section of the piece by rotating the cut sections to overlap the main part of the pattern. Have a play with how much you would like to remove. I'd suggest not going beyond a straight shape (you don't want the piece to become tapered). If you would like to remove exactly the amount you marked in STEP 1, swing the side pieces until the stitch line meets the cut line underneath. Once you are happy with the shape of the new piece, tape in place.

b You can mark in new smooth lines on the pattern piece, or trace onto a new piece of paper - whichever you prefer. If tracing, remember to transfer all notches and pattern markings. Where the hinge of paper is, mark the line as a nice smooth and gradual curve.

Repeat process for the FRONT [1] and BACK [2]. Check that the notches line up by walking the patterns together (more on that here).

ALTER POCKET

STEP 4
a Place the SIDE POCKET [6] on the SIDE PANEL [3]. The pocket is 5mm (1/4in) wider at either end on the original pattern - this gives it some shape at the top of the pocket. Mark two points 5mm (1/4in) from the stitch line at the top of the pocket (not the folded section - that is the hem).

b Draw in the new stitch line on the SIDE POCKET [6] by tracing the stitch line from the pattern underneath and joining to the points marked in part a.

c Add seam allowance to the new pocket seams (1.2cm / 1/2in). Transfer notches from the pattern underneath to the new SIDE POCKET [6].

STEP 5
a Fold down the top hem allowance on the SIDE POCKET [6], as if it has been sewn.

b With the hem allowance still folded back, cut along the new pocket edge on each side. This will create the shaping required on the top hem allowance.

c Unfold hem and mark notches at the fold line

And that's it!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Checking patterns - curved seams - can be found here.

P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

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