THE Q & A SERIES
Linen Burwood Jeans
Hi!
I just purchased the Burwood jeans pattern. Do you know if it's possible to make it in lighter weight fabrics like linen? If it's possible, are there any details to look out for? I am thinking of making a version similar to these from Apiece Apart.
Many thanks!
Josephine
Hi Josephine,
The Burwood jeans pattern is actually a really great match for your reference image. I think it would work beautifully in a medium weight linen or linen blend. The main thing to keep in mind is that linen behaves quite differently to denim, so there are a few details I'd pay attention to.
Stabilise the pocket opening
The Burwoods have slanted front pocket openings and linen has a tendency to stretch on the bias. I'd recommend applying a narrow strip of lightweight fusible interfacing along the pocket opening, extending just beyond the stitch line. This will help the pocket keep its shape over time.
2. Pocket bags.
The Burwood pattern uses a pocket shield, which is cut from your main fabric and attached to a pocket bag cut from a lighter weight fabric. This works really well in denim, where it helps the pockets feel substantial and prevents the lighter pocket bag from showing through. For a linen version, I'd simply cut the entire pocket bag from your linen and omit the pocket shield. It reduces bulk and will give you a cleaner finish that's better suited to a lighter weight garment.
3. Reinforce the patch pockets.
Patch pockets can put a bit of stress on the seat of the garment, particularly if you use them a lot. It can be worth adding small squares of lightweight interfacing behind the top corners of the pockets before attaching them to give those points a little extra support.
4. Consider simpler seam finishes.
I'd skip the flat felled seams and finish the seams with an overlocker (or another seam finish you like). Linen can become quite bulky and a little tricky to manage with flat felled seams, and the cleaner finish will suit this style nicely.
5. Choose lighter closures
I'd leave off the jeans hardware and use a regular dress zip rather than a jeans zip. For the waistband, a hook and bar closure will give you the clean, minimal finish that's shown in your inspiration photo.
6. LINEN WEIGHT
One other thing I'd think about is the weight of the linen. I'd avoid anything too lightweight, as the pocket bags and fly can become a little show-through. A medium weight linen (around 180–250 gsm) would give you enough structure while still keeping that relaxed drape.
I think they'll make a beautiful pair of pants. If you do make them, we'd love to see how they turn out!
Happy sewing,
Emily
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