HACKING THE ELWOOD DRESS PATTERN

Is anyone planning to sew an Elwood dress top? I'm a nursing mom, and this month's pattern isn't nursing friendly. I know it's based on the Collins top, but I don't have that one. Thoughts? 

One of the things we admire about our Curated by ITF community is their readiness to hack a pattern into something new to make it suit them and their specific needs. Unsurprisingly, one of the first questions we were asked after releasing the new Elwood dress pattern was ‘Will there be an Elwood dress Hack Kit?’ 

And as much as we love giving our community EXACTLY what they’ve been asking for, we feel very much that the Elwood dress pattern is not in need of a specific hack resource to go with it. There’s a few reasons for this:

  1. Creating a resource like a Hack Kit is really only of benefit on patterns that have a lot of potential for hacking into different designs. Because of the panelling in the Elwood dress design, there isn’t really that much you can do with it without first removing the panelling. In which case, there’s probably a better pattern to start from, like our Cartwright dress pattern, for example! Check out the Cartwright Hack Kit here.

  2. If you do want to hack the Elwood pattern, you can use the techniques from our other Hack Kits. Once you know the basics of pattern hacking - adding or removing volume, moving or adding seams etc - then these techniques can be applied to any pattern.

  3. Finally, to us the Elwood dress in itself is a very resolved design. In fact, it came about because Emily felt that the Collins top pattern had more to offer. 

As we said in point 2 above, you can definitely still hack the pattern, and we love supporting our community to do just that as much as we can. Here’s some ideas!

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If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

from Elwood dress to Elwood separates

By shortening the panels of the skirt pieces significantly you could create an Elwood peplum top, keeping or removing the panel lines as shown. Highlight the structure of the design in the lantern sleeves and skirt by using a fabric with a little less drape, or keep with the drapey fabric for a more relaxed feel.

Use the skirt panels of the Elwood dress to make a simple panelled skirt with an elastic waist or turn it into a pair of culottes!

Add a button placket

A centre front button placket is an easy hack that would definitely create a nursing-friendly alternative. We cover this particular hack in the Cartwright dress Hack Kit and the Neale jumpsuit Hack Kit, but if you don’t have those resources this YouTube video does a great job of explaining the process.

Add an invisible zip

As the seams of the Elwood dress pattern are quite straight, adding an invisible zip to create access is a great idea and not too difficult. Here’s a blog post that shows how.

The Elwood dress pattern has been so well-received, and we can’t wait to see what everyone does with it. (We’re already seeing Elwood makes popping up in our private community by some of our super-speedy sewists!)

If you make an Elwood dress and share it on Instagram, please tag us @inthefolds and use the hashtag #ElwoodDress so we can find you!

Happy sewing!

Emily

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

the hove tote: a love letter to our community

When planning projects for the year for Curated, we like to ask our community what types of projects they want to see and what skills they want to learn. This year one of our Foldies responded with:

"I would be interested in a pattern for a tote bag or work tote (like an LL Bean Boat and Tote or the Core tote, with interior pockets) and some small pouches for makeup or cords or corralling other small items. There are a lot of those patterns in the world already but I wonder what they would look like with the ITF vibe and style. Like if the Hove were a tote bag, what would it look like? Or if the Collins were a small zippered pouch?"

This idea inspired me instantly! 

Due to the ethos behind our patterns (designs that last the test of time by avoiding seasonal trends) I often find myself dreaming of revisiting past patterns and transforming them into new garments or expanding the pattern. So much time, love and care go into each of our designs, that it sometimes feels like a waste that certain elements can only be used once (or twice if the pattern has a variation).

When I was learning to use CLO3D (read this post if you’d like to know more about the digital garment design process) I used the opportunity to import some of my older patterns to see what I could create if I revisited some of the elements that I love and push them a little further. This is how I ended up creating the Acton with sleeves (above).

Collins top and Neale jumpsuit mash-up render.

During this time I also played with the Collins top pattern, first mashing it with the Neale jumpsuit and then playing with the idea of a Collins dress. I won’t give too much away because the Collins dress experiments were actually so successful that I decided to create a pattern that will be one of our projects next year! But never had I thought about bags inspired by our patterns, and suddenly it was all I could think about.

Getting started designing the hove tote

We like our December project to be about gift giving. Whether it’s for yourself or someone else, our aim is to create a project that doesn’t rely too heavily on good fit so that it can be easily made and easily gifted. A bag fits this brief perfectly!

I first thought I would jump straight on the computer and use the finished Hove jacket pattern to draft something in Illustrator or Clo3D, but after a few attempts it was not getting my creative juices flowing. I decided to go back to my favourite way of creating interesting shapes - through drape.

I took my Hove jacket and used a hair elastic to tie up one section so I could create a rough bag shape and voila! I suddenly saw it taking shape. At the time I didn’t know this would become the bag design, so the photos I shot were more for my own reference (rather than sharing on the internet!), rather than explaining the design process, but I think it’s important to show the reality of what the design process is really like. 

As I was playing like this I realised I wanted to draft a bag that wasn’t a conventional shape. I wanted it to have pleats and volume and panel lines with seam finishes on the outside. I instantly felt excited when I thought about how our Curated community would respond to the design.

When I started the Curated by ITF subscription, I felt the need to add some simpler pieces (in design, not necessarily in construction) to our collection. Up to that point all our patterns had a lot of design lines going on, which I love and is exactly what the ITF design aesthetic is. It’s my personal design aesthetic and it’s how I’ve designed since long before I started In the Folds. But, I felt we needed some more basic pieces that worked well with what was already in our collection. A dress to go with the Flynn and Hove, a shirt to go with the Darlow pants etc. Pieces that also allowed our members to focus on building their skills.

But I know our community loves to come back and sew one of ‘signature’ pieces - a pattern that is just something a little bit different. It has interesting panel lines and an interesting construction process - something that you would like at and instantly know it was one of our patterns! I hadn’t created a pattern like this since I had my daughter last December, and the process of going back to this way of designing felt liberating and like a chance to get back to myself. It also felt like a chance to reconnect with our community through design.

This feeling continued throughout the creation of this pattern. Each time I made a decision or ironed out a problem, I would think “That’s for you, Foldies!” (Foldies is affectionate name for our community members.) I started to think about the process of making this pattern as a love letter to our Foldies. With each interesting technique or section of the pattern, I thought about our community excitedly sewing that section too, and the confidence and skills they would gain through the process. 

How the hove tote pattern was made 

To make the pattern I took my draped Hove and traced it as well as I could onto pattern paper using a tracing wheel. I wasn’t worried about it being perfect because what I had at this point wasn’t anything like a bag. What I needed was to translate the essence of the drape into a bag design, rather than copy it exactly. I traced the shapes onto paper and then set out to work out what pieces would join to become panels.

When I work in this way I try to figure out as much as I can, without overwhelming myself. So I create as much of the pattern as I can, but if something doesn’t quite work yet, that’s okay. I’ll stop at that point and make a toile so I can figure it out through making. This way of designing means that I am not trying to resolve all issues at once and can just tackle one problem at a time.

Sewing a toile to figure something out is my favourite problem solving technique. It takes time - as the pattern needs to be cut out and then sewed, but it very quickly shows me where the problems are and what I need to do to solve them. It also means I can try different ways of putting something together and over time see what techniques will be the best for our community.

It was through this approach that I decided to develop my own type of seam finish. I had planned to sew the seams as regular bias bound seams, with the seams on the outside, but after sewing one of my samples I realised that it can be tricky to get a nice consistent distance between the bias binding and the seam, especially when working on curves. This isn’t such a big deal if your seams are on the inside, but when on the outside it stands out.

Although we like to encourage our community to not obsess over perfection, I’m the first to admit that it’s easier said than done. We all want to wear (or carry, in this case) a garment we can be proud of, and this normally means something that doesn’t look homemade. I also realised, after experimenting with an alternate seam finish, that by putting the row of stitching inside the bound seam, the bag looked less like it was inside out and more like the seams are supposed to be like this.

When I work in this way - using pattern making and toiling to test ideas and solve problems, I like it to be a completely hands on process. I try not to stop to solve problems. I just take note of them and continue on until I can’t go any further without another toile. To keep track of the changes I need to make, I write directly on the toile or pattern pieces so I won’t forget, or I take photos or videos to remind myself of what issues need to be resolved (if they are things I can’t write on a pattern piece).

For any pattern issues that I notice as I go, I write on the pattern pieces. This means that when it’s time to make the alterations to the pattern for the next toile, I can do them all at once as the notes are all there on the pieces. An example of this is where I realised that the binding could poke through the seams on the inside if you aren’t careful (image above). Making a sample with the correct seam finish was crucial to noticing this as I would never have considered it otherwise. I continue working in this way until all the issues are resolved and the pattern feels complete.

When I finished making the paper pattern and then digitised it, it felt like I’d answered the brief. I could see parts of the pattern that reminded me of the Hove jacket - that long sweeping curve and the pleats, for example. The seam finishes (although this time on the outside) was a nod to the Hove - even the facing that finishes the top edge reminds me of the hem facing on the sleeves. It also has that sense of playfulness in its construction which our customers have come to expect from our patterns. Even the most seasoned makers will get a surprise or two when working with one of our patterns, and that is the thing that I love about designing in this way. It means that you can make a piece like this over and over (Hello, Hove totes for everyone this holiday season!) and never get bored of the process.

Was this what you expected for a fashion designer’s process? I’d love to know - leave a comment below!

season’s greetings and happy new year!

With the end of the year rapidly approaching, we’re wrapping up our weekly emails until mid January so our team can have a much-needed break. We wish you all a wonderful holiday season and hope you are able to take some time for rest and relaxation, and of course, a generous helping of sewing!

Happy sewing,

Emily

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

Our top ten handmade gift ideas for 2023

Our top 10 handmade gift ideas to inspire your gift-giving this year!

As lovers of making, many of us are also lovers of giving the things we make. So, in no particular order, here's our top ten hand-made gift ideas for 2023 to inspire your creativity and help you get some boxes ticked (and wrapped! 🎁).

We know how busy life is for everyone, so we've included a combination of quick projects you can whip up in just a few hours (because gift-giving should NOT be a stressful experience!), and more involved projects for those who've got more time on their hands (you lucky thing!).

Got some ideas we haven’t included? Leave a comment to help inspire your fellow makers and readers!

#10 - whip up a whitlow robe

We’re pretending we’ve all got way more time on our hands than we probably actually do and starting strong with the Whitlow robe.

But hear us out!

Firstly, there’s still about 3 weeks til Christmas, which is plenty of time to raid your stash and whip up a seasonally-appropriate Whitlow. (Think linen or cotton for the southern hemi or something a little weightier, like a cotton terry or waffle, for our northerners.)

But also, you gotta know that whoever you gift this to is totally gonna love you, forever and ever. Amen.

#9 - mend their clothes

We know our community, and we know that you love to find ways to show your special people how much you care for them in ways that also care for the earth. So why not give them a voucher for clothes mending?

With our Introduction to Garment Repair resource you can give their current wardrobe and fave garments a new lease on life, which we know they’ll love you for.

(And you could possibly even nose in a bit of quality time under the guise of teaching them how to mend their own clothes. Double the fun!)

#8 - give the gift of lounging around

The Gibson loungewear pattern was last December’s Curated by ITF project and we stand by it for the perfect handmade garment for gifting.

It’s relaxed and loose-fitting style means you don’t have to stress about fitting alterations when making it for a friend or loved one. So long as you know their general size, you’re good to go!

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

#7 - lavender sachets

Granny Chic is totally in right now, which means lavender sachets are back, baby!

Of course, WE know they never really went out, because who can say no to little bags of flowers that make your clothes smell pretty and stop moths and other naughty things from eating all your handmade hard work??

#6 - sulis hat by pattern fantastique

Help your loved ones stay sun safe this year by gifting them a Pattern Fantastique Sulis Hat.

We LURVE this hat design so much. It’s got uber chic light-house keeper vibes that we just can’t get enough of!

#5 - organise your space pattern weights

Gifting to another sewist? A jar of pattern weights is a no brainer.

(And you’ll also be pleased because this gift can be whipped up in under an hour and will empty out your pantry of those pesky pulses you don’t know what to do with. LOL.)

Grab the pattern for these nifty little sewing tools (and more!) in the Organise Your Space issue of Curated by ITF. Find out more about our sewing subscription here.

#4 - davis crossbody bag by elbe textiles

The Davis Crossbody Bag by Elbe Textiles is making us shiver it’s so cool! Brrrrrr.

(And we kinda wish we’d come up with it ourselves, we love it so much.)

We reckon a Davis would be THE PERFECT GIFT for those teenagers (also, grown-up humans) who roll their eyes at anything ‘homemade’.

In fact, don’t even tell them you made it until after they’ve raved about how awesome it is. That’ll learn ‘em.

#3 - SCRAP-BUSTING HAIR ACCESSORIES

As waste-conscious makers we’re always on the hunt for projects that help us use up those fabric scraps that aren’t quite big enough for garments.

Hair accessories like scrunchies and headbands provide a great opportunity to dive into your stash and do some serious scrap-busting!

There’s plenty of free tutorials all over the interwebs, but here’s one we found just for you.

#2 - tied with a ribbon pj pals

We simply couldn’t resist these PJ Pals by Tied with a Ribbon.

Just imagine the smiles you’ll get when your son/daughter/grandchild/niece/nephew/friend’s kid tears off the wrapping to find this!

Serious points.

(And we’ll award you bonus stash-busting points too.)

#1 - curated by itf hove tote

We couldn’t possibly have a top ten gift ideas list without including our sewing subscription, Curated by ITF, right?! So, if you’re one of our beloved members, consider making and gifting our current project - the Hove tote.

Although, we appreciate that once you’ve made it, it might be hard to let it go, so an alternative is to gift a Curated by ITF subscription so they can just make one for themselves! (Now THAT’S a good idea!)

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

MAKER SPOTLIGHT: SHUAY'S CURATED BY ITF JOURNEY

Hi everyone! It’s Shuay here.

I was both thrilled and hesitant when Emily asked if I would be interested in writing a blog post about all my ITF hacks and how being a member of Curated by ITF has helped my sewing process. 

The hesitation is in my lack in writing an article. I remember how I struggled with my essay writing in school. But the thrilling thought of sharing my sewing enthusiasm overruled. That evening, I said 'Yes!' to Emily.

WHERE SHUAY’S CURATED BY ITF JOURNEY BEGAN

I was attracted to Emily's black and white buffalo check Neale Jumpsuit back in 2021 when Curated by ITF first got started. And wished I could sew up a similar jumpsuit for myself too. 

That was my very first issue of the Curated by ITF subscription. The Neale Jumpsuit Fit Kit blew me away. It is so comprehensive, with a whopping 102 pages of pattern adjustments! 

HOW CURATED BY ITF HAS HELPED SHUAY

The gaping neckline adjustment is one of the few that amazed me. Adjusting the crotch length is my must-have essential skill I picked up. Crotch adjustments from Issue 14 on Pants Fitting helped me tremendously in getting a better fit in my pants sewing journey.

Checking out inspirations from Pinterest has become my new hobby ever since, and sharing them on Mighty Networks is so fun! (Side note: Mighty Networks is where we host our private, online community for Curated by ITF.)

Sometimes, when I don't understand how to hack a pattern inspired by a design I have found, Emily offers graphical illustrations to help. She is so generous in sharing her knowledge. I remember hacking the Whitlow robe into a collared wrapped jacket. It was a great learning experience.

PATTERN HACKING: A BIG PART OF SHUAY’S SEWING JOURNEY

Curated by ITF promotes and encourages pattern hacking. On occasions, when I get stuck, Rosey (a valuable Foldie) reaches out to me with fresh ideas that I have never thought of.

I love the Foldies community so much!

Inspirations from fellow members of Curated by ITF often get me excited too. Shelby, another valuable member, hacked the Neale jumpsuit into a stunning maxi dress! I explored the slash and spread method and learnt from her. Pattern hacking works on the basics and it has been a big part of my sewing journey.  

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

eleven SAWTELls AND COUNTING…

There are so many great issues from Curated by ITF that I love. I can't believe I made eleven different versions of Sawtell! It has become my favourite dress block.

My last 2 Sawtell dress hacks are beyond recognition! I also referenced the Cartwright dress Hack Kit for help. I love that the Hack Kits are versatile and applicable to everyone's own basic dress or top block. Here are three designs I created using all the information I have learned through Curated by ITF.

This month the Marden shirt Hack Kit covers eight wonderful designs with a comprehensive step-by-step pattern drafting guide and I've been very excited to try out 2 hacks I had in mind.

I hope I inspire you to join us in our sewing and pattern hacking journey inside Curated by ITF!

Thanks so much, Shuay! We absolutely loved seeing inside your wardrobe and hearing about the skills you've learn through Curated by ITF. Every time you post in our Curated by ITF community we’re so inspired and motivated by your courage and excitement for trying new ideas you’ve come up with. You’re such a valuable member of our community and we can’t wait to see what else your sewing journey holds.

If you'd like to find out for yourself what it is that Shuay loves about Curated by ITF, join over 700 other makers and sign up to Curated by ITF today!

Happy sewing,

Emily

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

BEHIND THE SCENES OF OUR PRIVATE ONLINE CURATED by itf COMMUNITY

I’m currently thinking about the way we create and share content within our private, online community as we recently hired our first Content Creator (more about her to come!). So we thought this would be a fun behind the scenes topic to share with you, in case you’ve been wondering what goes on in our Curated by ITF community group (aka the home of our ‘Foldies’).

When I came up with the idea of Curated, having a community platform to go alongside the monthly project was high on the list of priorities. Deep community (rather than just likes on Instagram), interaction and feedback were the things I was missing in my own working life and I imagined our customers might be feeling the need for this too.

Thinking about starting a community is a daunting thing. To start with, there was the fear that no one would show up. That it would just be me and Alys (my one employee at the time), and maybe one die-hard fan in there with us…

But when I interrogated that fear (which is something I have to do daily as a small business owner!), I realised that one of two things would happen.

1. It would just be the three of us in the group (which actually sounds rather lovely), and I would realise our customers do not need a community platform and therefore could focus my attention on creating things they actually do want.

Or…

2. People would join and we would be able to connect with our customers in a way we had never done before, AND I would get the thing I was craving - deep connection with our community. 

It seemed worth the risk to give it a go!

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curated by itf membership

Choosing the platform - Mighty Networks

A screenshot of our community's log in page.

Making the decision to forge ahead with the idea led to another decision - what platform to use.  I already knew I didn’t want to use Facebook. I’d realised when using Facebook groups to pattern test, that a lot of people choose not to use Facebook, and I didn’t want people to miss out on being part of our community as a result. 

I also don’t like how Facebook groups handle posts. There’s no way to organise them, and we needed a platform that would allow us to easily organise the information we shared, such as sew-alongs and tutorials related to specific patterns.

After looking at a few options, Alys took a deep dive into a couple to see which would tick all our boxes and Mighty Networks came out on top. In Mighty Networks we can organise information by project, which makes it easy for our Foldies to find what they are looking for, and also means that we can grant access to specific content to active subscribers only.

How we plan our community content

We like to plan content for our community in a collaborative way. Normally, when I am creating the project I take note of the things I’m thinking about at the time, such as what inspired me and the elements I found challenging. These show us where we’ll need to provide extra resources (like videos or photo tutorials) to support our community. 

I put this into our project management software so that when it’s time to plan content for the month, it’s all there ready to go. Our Content Creator (formerly Alys and now our new hire) then looks through the project booklet and pulls out areas they think will be important to have support material for. We then jump on a call and chat through the project to make sure we’ve got everything covered.

We also try to plan content around a specific theme each month as this helps guide us. For example, this month’s project is a Hack Kit and the theme is ‘Design your own shirt’, so we’re sharing lots of inspiration in the community to get everyone’s creative juices flowing! This theme also runs through our email and Instagram content for the month.

We also try to respond to requests from our community members where we can. We now post a schedule at the start of the month (usually on the 2nd) because they told us it helps them structure their time and gives them an idea of when they can expect certain information.

Once we have a clear idea of the specific content for the month, we like to get it into our content calendar so we can see how it looks and wiggle things around to create a schedule we are happy with. Towards the end of the month we try to slow down the content we’re sharing so we can tailor our content creation to the needs of the community. This is when questions tend to pop-up about things like fit and fabric choice, and we love to deep dive into answering these questions because we know it’s really helpful for our members!

IMPROVE YOUR PRECISION SEWING WITH OUR
pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

The kind of content you’ll find in our private Curated by ITF community

When we release:

  • New patterns or Skills Kits - We like to think about what aspects we found tricky when sewing the garment or samplers, or what we imagine our community will find difficult or perhaps even confusing. Even though our patterns include a lot of illustrations to guide you through the sewing process, sometimes having photos or a video of a technique being done makes a huge difference!

  • Fit Kits - We spend a lot of time in our community providing one-to-one feedback and answering questions about garment fit, particularly when members are making toiles. We also like to create some easy content to help them get started with the fitting process, so we share some of the booklet pages because it helps to break the content down into easily digestible components and makes it feel way less overwhelming (because learning how to fit clothes can feel daunting at first!). The most important thing during fitting months is ensuring people feel comfortable to share photos of their toiles because there is so much learning to be had through this process!

  • Hack Kits - We love sharing design inspiration. Prior to the creation of a new project, I normally have a lot of images saved on a Pinterest board which is where we often draw our inspiration from. We also create tutorials and share resources about particular hacks that makers might want to try that we haven’t covered in the project resource itself.

  • Resources, such as the Slow Sewing Planner - We go through the booklet and pull out areas that would be fun to discuss in the community group. With projects like this we find our community has quite a lot to talk about as it is based on reflection and contemplation of their wardrobe. We also like showing how we’ve done something related to the project - e.g. what our workrooms looked like when we released the ‘Organise Your Space’ project.

The core value of our Curated by ITF community

Sometimes it can get overwhelming to think about ALL the content we want to create and share in our community, but it is important we come back to the core value of the community, which is connection. This community exists so that we can connect deeply with our community and our community members can connect with each other.

Each monthly project we release contains loads of valuable content for our members to work through, so we try to keep the platform about supporting makers to use that content in a way that works for them and their own creative practice, while connecting with other makers through the process.

This is when we remind ourselves that adding a quick question, discussion or asking people to share their experiences can be just as valuable for people as creating a piece of content like a sewing tutorial. One example of a piece of content that started a great discussion was a question about favourite shirt sewing tools. Everyone loved sharing their go-to tools, what they couldn’t sew without and things they’re hoping to add to their sewing tool kit.

I hope this has answered any questions you might have had about our online community! We love how engaging and interactive it is, and that it’s a safe place for our members to share their makes without feeling exposed. 

The only thing that’s missing is you! So come and join us - we’d love to have you in there.

Happy sewing,

Emily

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

Sheany wears a colourful animal print Acton dress.

Acton dress by Sheany, Emily's friend.

MAKER SPOTLIGHT: CHECK OUT THESE MEMBER MARDEN SHIRTS!

We don't expect our Curated by ITF members to make every project we release the moment it drops into their inbox. That's just not our jam.

But when they do? Golly, WE LOVE IT!

And this month we've been seeing some amazing Marden shirts popping up in our private online community. So, we thought we should share a few with you, in case you need some #sewinginspiration.

Sue’s Marden shirt - View B

One of our founding Curated by ITF members, we had an inkling that the Marden shirt would be right up her alley… and we were right! Sue made View B with the short, capped sleeves and chose a printed Liberty poplin, which turned out to be perfect for this piece.

What Sue Said about Marden

“I took my time sewing this great new pattern from @inthefolds. A little bit of sewing each day meant I could really enjoy all the lovely design features and clear instructions. It comes together beautifully. French seams, mitred splits and concealed button placket - lots to love!

I’m so glad that the ITF team led the way on playing with stripe direction because it gave me the courage to play too. 

The splits and placket are a delight. One of my favourite things about the construction was that the hem and buttonholes were done before the finish. It made them seem less of an inconvenience at the end, and more a part of the process. 

Do yourself a favour - make a Marden!”

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Lynn’s Marden shirt - View A

A committed In the Folds maker (with a collection of 9 Sawtell dresses at last count), we’ve featured Lynn’s creations before (you can read her ITF Spotlight post here). So, we weren’t surprised when she casually posted about her latest ITF make, a Marden shirt (paired beautifully with her Attwood pants).

WHAT LYNN said ABOUT MARDEN

“I played around with stripe placement in this thrifted linen and really enjoy the final shirt. 

Cutting it out was slightly mind-bending because of the multiple pieces, but it was a very very fun sew. I loved the mitred corners on the hem facing, and enjoyed piecing the whole thing together - it was also my favourite instructions for a collar that I’ve made thus far! And also the first time doing a concealed placket, for which the video (in the private online community) was really helpful.

I was surprised by the closer fit around the neck as well as the armholes, which serves as a good counterbalance to the oversized fit overall. It’s a very comfortable shirt and fun to style, and I look forward to wearing it all the time! Already have another cut out in a soft polka-dotted cotton lawn and can’t wait to see how it fits, before potentially working on a hack for a shirtdress.”

shuay’s marden shirt - view a

Our resident hacker, Shuay is not afraid to give an idea she has a go, and we can usually find her sharing design inspiration she’s come across, along with her ideas for hacking an In the Folds pattern into something completely new. She can also often be found making her Mum clothes (isn’t she the best!?) and this time it was a Marden shirt!

WHAT SHUAY said ABOUT MARDEN

“Mum is delighted to see my message this morning. She likes this style more than the other shirts she owns. She likes the opening on the sides, the roomy bodice and formal collar.

I made this in 2 metres of Nani Iro double gauze. I like the oversized look of the shirt on me. “

I hope these Marden makes give you some inspiration, if you’re lacking in sewjo at the moment. And join us in our Curated by ITF subscription before the end of the month to start your shirt sewing journey!

Happy sewing,

Emily

IMPROVE YOUR PRECISION SEWING WITH OUR
pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

OUR COLLABORATIVE EXTENDED SIZE RANGE DESIGN PROCESS

You may have seen that this week we released our latest pattern, the Marden shirt. An In the Folds twist on the classic tailored shirt, Marden has lots of details that make it fun to wear (boxy, stylish comfort) and sew (think panels for fabric play and skill-building techniques like a concealed button placket, collar and stand!), and we can’t wait to see them pop up in social media feeds around the world!

If you’ve got a keen eye for detail (like some of our eagle-eyed Foldies!), you may have noticed some subtle differences between the pattern in the size A-J range in comparison to the G-P range. Specifically, the addition of bust darts and a curved hem line to the G-P size range design. These differences weren’t originally part of the plan for our Marden shirt pattern, and what you see in the design for the A-J size range is pretty close to what our In the Folds team came up with in our initial sketches. 

Now, you may be surprised to hear that we work with a pattern maker, when I (Emily) am a pattern maker. However, drafting patterns for the plus size market requires very specific skills, which I do not hold as they weren’t part of my training. It’s very important to me that our extended size range is drafted with the same love, care, attention to detail and accuracy as our original size range, and to be able to do this I could see that we needed to work with someone who specialised in it. (If you’re interested in hearing more about the process of extending our size range, you can read about it here.) As a result, we now have a collaborative drafting process for our extended size range that involves the In the Folds team, a patternmaker and our fit model. And I wouldn’t have it any other way.

It was through many discussions with this highly-skilled team that we came up with the Marden shirt pattern as you know it today, and I am so happy with it! We received fantastic feedback from our sample maker and model, Sara from @fabric_scraps, who made two in the blink of an eye because she loved it so much! 

So, in this week’s post I wanted to highlight the collaborative process we have with our patternmaker and fit model and hopefully give you some insight into the decision-making process and how important it is to the quality of the finished pattern. Because without this team approach, Marden simply would not be what it is today.

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Marden shirt pattern - version 1 pattern

Like the current A-J size pattern, the first iteration of the G-P size pattern didn’t have a bust dart. When adding in the extra width needed to accommodate a size D bust cup size, we found that this impacted the hem line negatively, making it uneven, which was definitely not the look we were wanting. Our patternmaker stepped in at this point to (in her words) ‘cheat the shape to try to make things appear level using a shirt-tail shape’. 

The other thing we were on the lookout for in this initial version was to see how much ease to have in the shirt. Because the original pattern has considerable ease in it, our patternmaker gave us the following advice, “When your model tries this on I would definitely compare photos side by side to judge body length, hem band level and shoulder. This style is much more proportion driven rather than a numeric conversion.” With this in mind we sought fit feedback from our plus size fit model.


Marden shirt pattern - version 1 feedback

We weren’t surprised to hear Marden G-P version 1 was much too wide in the body, as this was something we were already on the lookout for. The extra width in the body impacted the length of the shoulder seam (making the shoulder seam far too long). Because of this, the armscye was basically at the model’s elbow, which then resulted in the sleeve causing restriction in movement.

The other issue that was raised by our fit model was that the hemline was riding up in the front and dragging down at the back, and she suggested the addition of bust darts to improve the fit. Our patternmaker agreed that ‘it will continue to fall back without a dart as an anchor point’. This is when it becomes a truly collaborative process - a conversation between me, the designer, the person that makes it happen from a technical standpoint, the pattern maker and the wearer / end user, our fit model.

Side note: We’ve included images of pattern pieces from both size ranges. The pattern pieces from the G-P range are not formatted to their final state in this image as this is not the final pattern. This is what the pattern looks like when we receive it back from the patternmaker, before it’s finalised and gets formatted for printing.

Marden shirt pattern - version 2 pattern

With our patternmaker and fit model feedback at front of mind, we decided to slim our design down (mostly through the chest and shoulders) and add a bust dart. The decision to take some width out of the body would also help with the shoulder length issue. Then, it was back to our fit model to check that the fit had improved and that the pattern still had the same look and feeling as the original pattern.

As you can see when comparing the versions, width has been taken out through the bust and chest, which has reduced the shoulder seam length. A bust dart was added and some length to the upper panel to accommodate the bust, but you will see as you read on, we removed this additional length in the final version as it was not required.

Marden shirt pattern - version 2 feedback

With the major overhaul of the shirt, we’d unfortunately gone too far and taken out too much width from the shoulders. This changed the slope of the shoulder so much that the armscye became too small, or as our fit model said, restrictive. The thing is, if you don’t try, you don’t know, so even though it may feel like wasted time (especially when we have a strict deadline - our Curated subscription monthly release), this is actually a really important part of the design process.

Marden shirt pattern - version 3 pattern

The major change for version 3 was to alter the slope of the shoulder seam, which would then change the shape and size of the armscye, solving the restriction in the armhole that our fit model mentioned. Although it doesn’t look like a major difference between the pattern pieces, if you look at the armhole lengths, you can see there is a considerable difference. In comparison, the version 3 armhole is 6cm larger than the version 2 armhole - most of this on the back. 

Marden shirt pattern - version 3 feedback

Fit model: “I think we have a winner!”

Phew - what a relief it was to receive that email!

It was at this point that I did a final check between the initial size 10 sample (our sample size for our A-J range) on the body in comparison to the size 24 on our fit model and noticed that the panel line was sitting too low in the extended range, so the patternmaker raised it by 5cm, as I mentioned earlier.

Marden shirt - Size J (from A - J range)

Marden shirt - Size J (from G - P range)

Pattern pieces from the two ranges nested together

The final pattern

As you can see from this process, designing a pattern is very much a collaborative process, and even more so now that we are working with two different pattern blocks. I really appreciate the skills and insight our pattern design collaborators have, because without their input we simply couldn’t create the patterns that we have today.

If you have any questions about this process, we’d love to answer them, so please leave them in the comments section below.

Happy sewing,

Emily

IMPROVE YOUR PRECISION SEWING WITH OUR
pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

OUR TOP TIPS FOR ACCURATE SEWING

This month in Curated by ITF we’re focusing on learning the skills and techniques required to sew structured shirts with the Sewing Shirts Skills Kit, part one in our latest project series that covers everything you need to know to sew (and hack!) shirts.

One of the main things to keep in mind when sewing shirts is how important it is to sew precisely. Think about the points of the collar, the ‘house’ shape that makes the sleeve placket, the fold of the button placket… There are so many elements to a shirt that must all come together precisely and neatly in order to make a beautifully finished garment. Focusing on accuracy when sewing each individual element of a shirt will go a long way towards sewing a garment that looks like it’s been made by a professional!

If you’re ready to step-up your skills and the look of your me-mades by sewing more accurately, here are the areas you should focus on.

FABRIC

Selecting the right fabric for the garment you’re making is very important - so much so that it can make or break the finished outcome. If you’ve made a few garments by now, you’ve probably experienced the disappointment of finishing a garment and realising that the fabric has let you down.

When choosing fabric there’s a few things to keep in mind: How well does the fabric press? Is it bulky? Does it fray easily? Does it stretch? These factors will make some fabrics more difficult to work with than others, so do yourself a favour and select a fabric suitable for the project. Not sure how to do this? Take a look in your wardrobe or favourite clothing store for inspiration - what types of fabrics are your favourite shirts made from?

In general, cotton is a very stable fabric to work with, plus its breathable and presses well. As a result, it’s the most commonly used fabric for shirt making. We recommend it for these same reasons, and particularly if you are new to sewing shirts, but you may also like to consider shirting, poplin, twill, gabardine, lawn, chambray or flannel. 

Whatever fabric you choose, sewing samplers (like we’re doing this month with our Sewing Shirts Skills Kit or with our Pants Sewing Skills Kit, part one of our Pants Making Series) gives you the perfect opportunity to test out fabric before cutting out a whole garment. Samplers give you the opportunity to see how the fabric handles when it is cut, pressed and sewn. And the best part? They give you a chance to change your mind!

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TOOLS

As with any creative endeavour, there are a multitude of tools you can incorporate into your sewing practice. Apart from a good pair of sharp scissors (which is an absolute must-have) we prefer to keep things simple and make do with the basics, because it can get quite expensive buying all the gadgets. 

If you’re interested, a few things you might like to add to your toolbox that may make sewing shirts (and other garments) easier and sometimes more accurate include a sleeve board or sleeve pressing ham (one or the other is enough), buttonhole foot, an expanding sewing gauge for marking buttonholes, buttonhole cutter, corner turner, Fray Check and starch.

Don’t feel like you need to rush out and buy these tools all at once. They are things you can gradually add to your collection over time and, if you’re lucky, may also be found in thrift or second hand stores for a bargain. 

CUTTING

Cutting your garment accurately is one of the best ways you can set yourself up for success as it is almost impossible to sew a garment precisely if it has not been cut accurately first. The following tips will improve the outcome of your cutting practise.

  • Always pre-wash your fabric. Use the settings and method you will use when you wash the finished garment. 

  • Iron your fabric before you start.

  • Spread it out on a large flat surface. I know this one can be a bit tricky if space is limited, so if this is the case, consider cutting the pattern in sections so that you can get the fabric as flat as possible.

  • If you’re cutting a fabric that is very delicate or likely to move around in the cutting process, consider cutting between layers of paper.

  • Use pattern weights to hold pattern pieces in place.

  • When cutting stripes, it’s even more important to cut the fabric accurately or you won't be able to match the stripes when sewing. To start, you will want to cut the pieces 'flat' rather than on the fold. This means that you need to create a full pattern piece or cut out half and then carefully flip the piece to cut the other side. Cutting flat also helps when working with fabrics that are slippery, stretch easily or are likely to move.

  • If a pattern is cut on the fold, finger press the fold (or use an iron) so that the edge of the pattern sits exactly where it should.

  • Use very sharp scissors.

  • Keep pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you are ready to use the particular piece to prevent stretching.

  • Take your time! Remind yourself that cutting can take almost as long as sewing the garment, and doing it right will set you up for success. To make the process more enjoyable, listen to a podcast or put something easy on Netflix to play in the background. 

SEWING

If you’ve followed all our recommendations above, you’ve gone a long way towards creating a garment that will have a beautiful finish at the end. But, there’s still a lot you can do to make sure! Here’s what you can do to improve your sewing accuracy.

  • Change your needle before starting a new project.

  • Sew some samplers to practise any techniques that are new to you, and to test out how your machine and thread handle a particular fabric.

  • Never skip the pressing! Your iron is your best friend when it comes to precision sewing. 

  • Have your seam ripper handy. (Don’t worry, we all make mistakes and it’s part of the process.) 

  • Use staystitching to prevent the fabric stretching. The most common areas to staystitch are areas that are curved or cut on the bias such as necklines and armholes in sleeveless garments. 

  • Use the hand wheel to walk your stitches in. This is the best way to land exactly on a specific point. Also use the hand wheel if you need to start a row of stitching at a specific point.

  • Use pins to ensure your pieces line up accurately before sewing. If you place your pins perpendicular to the seam you are sewing (with the pinhead on the outside) they are easy to remove as you sew.

TAKE BREAKS

My biggest tip is not a handy tool or a special sewing technique. It’s the reminder that it is a good idea to take your time when sewing. Take breaks when you need them. Don’t rush it. Even though everything around us may be trying to tell us the opposite, it’s not a race to the end. We can sew for the sheer enjoyment of the process. It’s ok to just enjoy the process and take the focus off the finished product! 

If you’ve made a couple of mistakes or are getting frustrated, set your project aside and take a breather. Have a cup of tea, go for a walk, or even better, put it down until tomorrow. Fresh eyes and a clear brain does the world of good when it comes to sewing accurately.

If you’re really feeling annoyed with your project, chat about it with someone in your sewing community, because it’s always good to remember that you’re not alone when you hit a hurdle. And, if you haven’t got a sewing community, that’s another great reason to join Curated by ITF! We have a fantastic and very encouraging community of Foldies who are just waiting for another person to nerd out and chat about precision sewing with!

Happy sewing,

Emily

IMPROVE YOUR PRECISION SEWING WITH OUR
pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

WHY WE CREATED OUR SEWING PROJECT SERIES IN CURATED BY ITF

When we can, we like to share with you something that happens behind the scenes of In the Folds. This month, in our sewing subscription Curated by ITF, we released the Sewing Shirts Skills Kit, the first part of a three-part shirt making series, so we thought it would be a great opportunity to tell you a bit more about what goes into creating one of our project series.

WHERE IT ALL STARTED

First, I want to go way back to the beginning and talk about the mission behind Curated by ITF. For a number of years I was creating patterns and releasing them as standalone patterns, and although I got a kick out of the whole process, it always felt like something was missing, particularly on launch day. After working tirelessly on a new pattern for months, launch day tended to feel like I was just pushing it out into the world and hoping for the best. 

This is partly the nature of running a digital business. Although it’s amazing being able to create a product that people all over the world can buy, and it was a thrill to see names I recognised pop up as patterns were purchased or when someone used the hashtag and shared their make on Instagram, overall I felt very disconnected from the makers who were supporting my business. 

After a while I noticed the disconnection went beyond launch day and that I felt the same way when working through the design process for new projects. I had a very clear vision of what In the Folds was about and who it was for, but not being able to speak directly to my community and check-in and ask what they wanted was leaving me feeling a little empty.

CURATED BY ITF WAS BORN

Fast-forward countless conversations, many daydreaming sessions, and the hire of the brilliant Alys, and Curated by ITF was born. I had found a way to make what I did not just about the release of patterns, but also the creation of a community. A community that not only wanted to sew, but wanted to learn new skills and develop their practice, one project at a time. 

When I write it out like that, it seems so clear and so simple what Curated by ITF is, but in all honesty, when we first launched I couldn’t have summed it up like that. Because at that point, right at the start of Curated, we were doing the exact same thing I had done when releasing a pattern in the past - creating a product for a particular audience and hoping they would ‘get’ it.

Now, 26 (26!!) projects in, Curated has become what our customers want. It is no longer an idea that I came up with, but a response to the needs of our community. By having an online community platform as part of the subscription it means we can (and do!) talk to our community on a daily basis. It means that we can see their struggles, their challenges and their wins. What they’re working on, what they’re aspiring to. It means that we can create our content in direct response to the needs of our community. And with that, the empty feeling I used to feel as I sat alone at my laptop when I made a new pattern live on my website has disappeared. It’s been replaced with a new feeling, an excitement about serving our community and an anticipation to hear what they think about the new project and see what they make. 

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I must say that the odds feel higher now, but what makes it worthwhile is all the beautiful faces of our community members that I can see in my head as I sit alone at my laptop working on the next project.

So this now brings me to the development of our series. When we first started rolling out projects to our community, I had a ‘more, more, more’ attitude. I was constantly thinking about how much more content we could serve our community, how many more patterns and resources we could deliver. Because that’s what we’re told we have to do. Always do more.

But then we started to notice something. 

Members of our community were starting to feel overwhelmed, because they felt like they were falling behind or failing. And that was the last thing we wanted our community to feel! We wanted them to feel excited and inspired and supported to learn new skills without feeling overwhelmed.

WHAT OUR MEMBERS ACTUALLY WANT

And that’s when we realised the true superpower of a monthly project subscription. Each month’s pattern or resource didn’t need to be a standalone product. It could form part of a series, which meant we didn’t have to limit the amount of content we shared, but could do it in a more manageable way that didn’t overwhelm our members. Because there was something else we had learned about our community in this time - they weren’t looking for quick and easy projects that they could finish in an hour or two. They wanted to learn and challenge themselves in new ways. They wanted to geek out about sewing and dive into the nitty gritty with us and understand the ‘why’ behind all that we do.

With the ability to release projects as a series, we can now focus on the skills we want our community to learn in a particular month and can help them learn those skills in the most straightforward ways with the least distractions. For example, this month we’re learning all about the specific sewing skills required for sewing shirts. Sewing shirts is about accuracy and precision. It’s about selecting the right fabric and the right interfacing. It’s about carefully cutting your fabric and sewing and pressing your seams carefully. 

By focusing on sewing shirt samplers this month, we can minimise the noise. We’re not getting distracted about fit, or rushing the process to make a completed shirt. We’re slowing it down and starting with the foundations so we can enjoy the learning process itself. Sewing a sleeve placket for the first time (or even the fifth time) can be a little bit daunting when it needs to become part of a shirt. By sewing it as a sampler, the stakes are much lower and the focus can be on the learning. Sewing a collar for the first time and attaching it to a shirt that has taken hours to make can also be daunting. It can be disconcerting to trim something when you’re not absolutely certain you’re doing it right! Again, doing this as a sampler first means you can gain that confidence so when you’re doing it on a shirt you intend on wearing you are already familiar with the techniques and the process. You know where to trim because you’ve practised it. 

By focusing on sewing techniques in the first month of the project, it means that we can release a shirt pattern next month and know that our community is ready for it. They’ll be prepared for the challenge both mentally and technically and can go into the next project with confidence. And, it means they can focus on different things next month - picking the right fabric, choosing the right size and working out what alterations they may need to make to the pattern. 

There are some really fun bits to sew in the Marden shirt pattern (coming in October!), that we hope our community will feel excited about because they have gained confidence with precision sewing this month through their shirt samplers.

After two months of sewing shirts with the Sewing Shirts Skills Kit and the Marden shirt pattern, our community will have a solid understanding of the components that make up a traditional shirt, as well as what they like, what they don’t like, and what they’re looking for in their dream shirt. And that’s when we’ll release Part Three of the series, giving them an opportunity (and the support they need!) to get creative and push the boundaries of their patternmaking skills with the Marden shirt Hack Kit.

I hope this helps to answer any questions you might have about Curated by ITF, and we welcome you to come and experience our wonderful sewing community by purchasing a subscription today!

Happy sewing!

Emily

check out our pants sewing series

Now available as a standalone three-part project series in our shop!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

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THE SEWING PATTERN VARIATION DESIGN PROCESS

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Designing a new sewing pattern is a really enjoyable experience, and for many designers it’s the best part of the entire process. With the first design you can do whatever you like and you’re really only limited by what you can imagine. 

But one of my favourite parts comes after this stage, when the key design elements of the garment have been established and the main direction for the pattern has been set… The pattern variation design stage.

WHAT ARE SEWING PATTERN VARIATIONS?

Woman wears a white raglan sleeve Collins top.

Collins top, View A (original design)

Woman wears a blue sleeveless Collins top.

Collins top, View B (pattern variation)

Pattern variations are the different styles that can be made from one sewing pattern, and they’re commonly referred to as Views (ie. View A, View B etc). With our Collins top pattern, for example, View A, with the three-piece raglan sleeve, is the base (or original) design, while the sleeveless View B Collins top is the variation.

The pattern variation design process

For me, thinking about the little (or sometimes big!) changes I can make to create pattern variations is a lot of fun. If I decide there is going to be a variation to a pattern I’m working on, it can sometimes be very obvious what the variation will be. Some designs point you in a certain direction and it just makes sense to go that way. Other times it's hard to know where a variation will go until I actually start playing around and experimenting. Sometimes, with whatever approach you take it turns out to be a dead-end. In my experience, either approach can lead to great pattern variations, and at the very least, lots of learnings. 

What I love about this part of the design process is the constraint, because it challenges me to think outside the box. You don't have the endless freedom that you have with the first design. You have to consider the limitations that have been set by the original. And this has very practical implications when designing patterns for home sewists. We need to use as many of the original pattern pieces as possible to limit the number of pages our customers have to print. And we also need to use as many of the same processes as possible to avoid having a 100 page instruction booklet!

Fun fact #1: The Hove jacket was originally a variation!

You may be familiar with my very popular Hove jacket pattern, but what you may not be familiar with is its back story…

Woman wears a green Flynn jacket.

Flynn jacket (original design)

Woman wears a black Hove jacket.

Hove jacket (pattern variation)

Originally, the Hove jacket was a variation of the Flynn jacket. As the design evolved, through the addition of a hood, a change in the hem shape and different pleats, it became impossible to keep them both in one sewing pattern. The pattern would have been enormous! The up-sides of this variation evolution was that I now had two new designs to release and could create other variations within each design. Also, the patterns can be mixed and matched, which you can read more about here.

Fun fact #2: Pattern variations can come about as a result of customer requests!

And this is how the Acton sleeve expansion pack was created…

Acton dress (original design)

Acton dress sleeve expansion (pattern variation)

This pattern variation was actually quite difficult to design because the original Acton dress pattern had already been published and therefore couldn’t be changed. This meant there was absolutely no room for movement in the original design when working through the sleeve variation design process and I had to come up with a new bodice design that worked with the original pattern to be able to create the sleeves patterns.

THE ORIGINAL ATTWOOD PANTS

Emily wearing her original black Attwood pants.

Attwood pants (original design)

Back view of Emily wearing her black cotton twill Attwood pants.

Attwood pants (original design)

I first designed the Attwood pants and created the pattern long before I launched my sewing subscription, Curated by ITF. Back then, they were referred to as the very original 'Panel pants'. 

Side note: I made the pair above many moons ago when the pattern was still in development. They’re made in a cotton drill fabric that suits the pattern perfectly. They are the perfect weight and I have worn them A LOT. (They’re so old that I can't remember what size these are, but I'd say probably a D or E. I am currently 1-2 sizes bigger in my waist and hip measurements compared to when I made them and they are still comfortable. Elastic waist pants for the win!)

As the idea for Curated by ITF began to grow, the pants pattern was pushed to the side and my time was filled with learning new skills and designing other projects. But a couple of years ago, when I was wondering how to include the pants pattern in our Curated program, I started to think about a skirt variation. I liked the idea of playing with the panels and using the wrap around pocket (my favourite element!) in another garment type. 

The hurdles of drafting an Attwood skirt variation

Attwood pants (pattern variation - skirt)

Attwood pants (pattern variation - skirt)

Attwood pants (pattern variation - skirt)

When I started drafting the Attwood skirt variation, I began to realise that I wasn't going to be able to use the pants pattern pieces how I’d hoped and expected. 

I had anticipated that I would need to draft a new centre front and centre back panel, because skirts don't need a crotch seam and I also needed these pieces to be the same length as the side panels. But, I had thought the side panels could work for both pants and a skirt. Once I started drafting the skirt however, it was clear they were going to be too narrow. 

Then there was the problem of how to finish the seams, as a side split would need to be added to give enough room for movement…

So you can see here what I was talking about before. The limitations of the original design meant that I would have to make significant changes to the pattern pieces and write completely new instructions in order to include a skirt view in the Attwood pants pattern.

Sometimes pattern variations just don’t work

Although it's fun to design within the parameters of an established pattern, it was fairly ambitious of me to think that pants and a skirt could come from the same pattern. Sometimes you have to accept that a particular variation is just not going to work. That’s what I came to with this one, and that’s okay.

Although I had to give up my dreams of including a skirt variation in the Attwood pants pattern, I did make the skirt to see how and if it would work, which you can see above. And, I love it! 

I realised that a tutorial showing how to hack the Attwood pants pattern into a skirt is exactly the kind of information my Curated by ITF community loves, and it’s now one of the additional resources that we created for our much-loved Foldies. So if you think you’d like to learn how to do this too, I recommend joining. We’d love you to see you in there!

Happy sewing,

Emily

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

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INDUSTRIAL TECHNIQUES FOR HOME SEWISTS

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We know how much our community loves to geek out about sewing, so for this month’s behind the scenes email we thought we’d dive into the nitty gritty of some of the industrial sewing techniques we like to use at In the Folds. 

With every pattern we design, there are very specific reasons why we do things the way we do them. And what you may notice when you first open up an In the Folds pattern is that it may be a bit different to how you’ll see things done in the home sewing world more broadly.

When I started drafting my first patterns for In the Folds it was really important to me to do things the ‘right’ way. For me, that meant continuing to use the techniques I learned while studying Fashion Design at university. Of course, since I’d spent several years studying these techniques and methods of sewing they made a lot of sense to me, but as someone who had sewn for many years before studying, I could also see the benefits of using them when it came to the overall standard of finish of the garments I made. Everything looked more polished and well-made. They fit better. They even felt stronger - like they would handle being worn over and over again without needing to be repaired constantly. And this was exactly what I wanted for the makers of my In the Folds patterns!

Sometimes this means that the techniques we use aren’t quick and easy to explain, and our Fit Kits and Skills Kits are often over 100 pages long as a result! But the thing is, once you’ve learned them, you can apply these skills over and over again, on every garment you make, and create yourself a wardrobe full of beautifully-made pieces that will last a long time.

Here’s some examples of the industry techniques we use, along with why we prefer them. I hope you find it enlightening, AND perhaps feel encouraged to try a method you’ve been too scared of previously!

INDUSTRIAL SEWING TECHNIQUES VS HOME SEWING TECHNIQUES & our preferred methods

Notches

Notches are used to indicate seam allowance, dart arms, and the location of design details, such as pleats, tucks, gathers, hems and pockets. They can also be used to indicate key points on a pattern, such as the centre front and centre back. Single notches indicate the front side of the pattern piece, while double notches indicate the back.

In most traditional home sewing patterns you’ll see notches marked by a triangle. We use the industrial way of notching patterns, which is where you snip into the edge of the fabric. Not only are single snips much easier to make, they’re also much more accurate. Lining up a single point is always going to be easier than lining up and cutting triangles accurately. 

How to mark notches using the industrial method

To mark a notch, snip into the fabric 6mm (¼in). If the notch is on a narrow seam (for example, 6mm) you will need to reduce the amount you snip in by.

Drill holes

Drill holes are used to indicate features that are located in an area of the pattern that can’t be notched. For example patch pocket placement and dart points. Drill holes can be marked in a range of ways - with chalk, pins or a tailor’s tack.

In the industry, drill holes are literal drill holes - tiny holes that are drilled into the fabric. The reason for this is that garment pieces are cut in multiples by layering fabric, and drill holes are then marked through all the layers in one go. 

For home sewing we don’t need to worry about marking multiple garments at a time, so we can do it any way we like. When sewing a toile I always use a stiletto / awl to pierce a hole in the fabric because it won’t be worn as a finished garment and it’s much faster to do (and we all want to finish our toiles fast!) and also very accurate.

When it comes to marking darts on In the Folds patterns, we set the drill hole back 1.2cm (1/2in) from the dart point. The reason for this is that the marking will be hidden inside the dart when it’s sewn and you don’t have to worry about marking or damaging fabric where it might be visible at the dart apex.

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If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey, our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

Seam allowances

The seam allowances in our patterns vary, depending on the part of the garment that is being sewn, as this makes sewing our patterns easier. If patterns have the same seam allowance over the entire pattern, it makes some areas quite tricky to sew. 

For example, if a zip is being sewn into a seam we’ll allow for a larger seam allowance of 2cm (3/4in). For necklines and waist seams we tend to use 1cm (3/8in) as curves are easier to sew with a narrower seam allowance. 

In industry, seam allowances can be a small as 6mm (1/4in) but I learned quickly that a lot of home sewists shy away from a 6mm (1/4in) seam allowance, and that’s okay! At the end of the day we are creating patterns for home sewists and we want the chosen techniques to suit home sewists!

Marking seam allowances on a pattern 

Marking seam allowances on a pattern.

When I first started using commercial sewing patterns I was surprised to realise they don’t have the seam allowance marked. I had become used to using my own patterns that always had the stitch line marked, and I referred to these lines often.

Stitch lines come in handy when making alterations (for style or fit) to a pattern. When adjusting a pattern you need to remove the seam allowance before making a change, so having it on there cuts out this step because it’s there ready to go. 

I also believe that having it on a pattern normalises the idea that patterns are designed to be altered and hacked to meet the user’s needs and requirements. Yes, it’s fun when you love a pattern and it works on the first try, but in reality this is not the case for most makers, so adding stitch lines makes our patterns more accessible to those that know they’ll need to make adjustments.

Although I love having stitch lines marked on the pattern, I have learned over time that they’re not for everyone, so now our digital patterns have these lines on a separate layer so you can choose to print your pattern with or without.

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Cut 1 pair vs Cut 2

Our cutting instructions are always written so there is no room for confusion. There’s enough to think about when starting a new project, so we like to make sure makers feel supported and that the guess work has been taken out of the process. 

Using the term ‘Cut 1 pair’ specifies that the two pattern pieces should mirror each other, which is important for one-sided or directional fabric. Patterns that say “Cut 2” leave room for error as the term doesn’t communicate whether the pieces need to be identical or mirror images. 

Sewing sleeves in the round 

If you’ve been in the home sewing world for a while you’ve probably come across a (possibly heated) discussion somewhere about which method of sewing sleeves is better - in the round or flat?

My preference is most definitely sewing in the round, unless I’m sewing a knit or relaxed fit garment with a dropped shoulder. The reason is because I will always choose longevity and finish quality over speed, and that’s exactly what you get when you sew sleeves in the round.

Sewing sleeves in the round almost always helps you achieve a sleeve that fits and hangs properly and sits nicely under the arm. You’ll get a smoother finish under the arm because you have more control over which direction to press the seams, and the sleeve will wrap around the curve of the underarm, rather than sit flat.

Want to learn more about these two methods and why I prefer sewing in the round? Check out this blog post. You might also be interested in how and why we combine the two approaches.

Flat felled seams vs Mock  flat felled seams

Flat felled seams are one of those finishes we all admire on RTW garments. It just looks so good! One of the strongest seam finishes, they’re perfect for hard-wearing items like pants and jackets and we just had to include them in our latest pattern release, the Attwood pants pattern. (Also, we knew this was a finish our community was keen to perfect!) 

Flat felled seams are where the raw edges are enclosed inside the seam, like with French seams, but it’s then pressed and stitched to keep the seam nice and flat. Because there is a bit of bulk in this finish and they do take some time to do, mock or faux flat felled seams were created to give the same look.

Although they may look the same from the right side, faux flat felled seams are simply not as hard wearing as true flat felled seams, and the finish on the inside is not as clean. So that’s a no to faux!

Neck ribbing

Have you ever attached a ribbed neckband on a knit shirt you’re making, only to be disappointed at how warped it looks when you’re done?

For ease of explaining the instructions, knit fabric patterns will often tell you to ‘quarter the neckband’. However, because the front neckline is longer than the back, it means the front ribbing is stretched more than the back, making the neckband uneven. In the Folds patterns always have notches to distribute the stretch evenly around the neckline, and if you’re making your own pattern we recommend using the ratio method to work it out. If you’re keen to learn more about sewing with knit fabric, we recommend you check out our Sewing Knits Skills Kit!

These techniques are just a dash of those we prefer to use at In the Folds, and if you’d like to learn more and find out how to start applying these to your own sewing process, we’d love you to join us with a Curated by ITF membership.

In the meantime, I hope these techniques and explanations are helpful!

Happy sewing,

Emily

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

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THE SAWTELL DRESS AND TOP EXTENDED SIZE RANGE RELEASE

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Woman wearing a Sawtell top in striped fabric.

Since first releasing the Sawtell dress and top patterns in our Curated by ITF subscription, these have become some of our most sought after designs.  

Questions like "How can I buy the Sawtell dress pattern?" and "How long til the Sawtell patterns are released in the extended size range?" have become regular refrains in our inbox.

Which makes it all the more wonderful to FINALLY be able to tell you that the Sawtell dress and Sawtell top patterns are now available to purchase in our shop and in our extended size range!

(And, if you’re interested in reading about the process we went through to increase the sizes offered in our patterns, check out this blog post. We’ve also got a blog post about Plus Size Sewing Resources here.)

It’s all in the details of sawtell

The Sawtell dress is a sophisticated, yet versatile, wardrobe staple with a range of design details that will appeal to the sewist who is seeking to expand their techniques and skills.

Made in a lightweight fabric this garment will play the role of summer cover-up perfectly. In something heavier and more structured, styled with a turtle-neck and tights, it will become the mainstay of your cooler weather wardrobe.

Featuring an inset placket with pleats and bust darts, the Sawtell dress has a yoke and box pleat in the back, capped sleeves and a wide hem. The neckline is finished with bias binding and pockets are inset for an eye-catching design feature and new technique for you to learn.

Woman wearing Sawtell top with gathered sleeves.
Woman wearing Sawtell top with striped fabric and gathered sleeves.

Designed with longevity in mind, the Sawtell top comes with four sleeve options - straight, gathered, flared sleeve and a fun dropped gathered sleeve. With these sleeves in your pattern stash (and our guidance in the Fit Kit) you’ll be able to make lots of different Sawtell tops, or add the sleeves to the Sawtell dress pattern or another pattern in your stash!

In the version below, Emily added the long gathered sleeves and inset placket to the Sawtell dress.

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There’s something about Sawtell

Sometimes you release a pattern and you never expect it to be as popular as it is. And that’s exactly the case with the Sawtell designs.

There’s just something about the versatility of these designs that our customers love… so we thought we’d share some of the makes from when Sawtell was first released, so you can see the design in action and hear firsthand what it is about Sawtell that everyone loves.

Here’s a selection of three Sawtell dresses, all made by Lynn who, to date, has made a total of nine! Pretty sure that speaks for itself. Lynn’s makes really show how versatile this pattern is when it comes to fabric choice.

Caroline made the most of a smaller piece of very special fabric, combining it with a matching solid for the neckline placket.

“My Sawtell is finished and feels like the perfect dress for a hot, humid day. This lovely linen is from Injalak Arts, an indigenous gallery in the Northern Territory, Australia. The design by Eva Nganjmirra is called Mandem (Waterlillies).”

Saritha chose one of the simpler Sawtell views, but used her fabric and print selection to create a combination that really sings!

“I used the sawtell dress pattern with all the adjustments to make the bodice as per the instructions and the straight sleeve. Also took out the front pleat. I like it better this way.”

Sue wears a natural linen Sawtell dress.

Less is more with Sue’s classic natural linen version!

“Thanks Emily for designing the Sawtell! I just love it so much - it’s everything I have wanted in a dress, and in a sewing project! It totally feels curated for me. 🤩”

Get the fit right with the Sawtell Fit Kits

Our Fit Kits have become a much-relied on resource for our Curated by ITF members (like Nadia below), with a plethora of tutorials to help you get the right fit for your body, and not just for In the Folds patterns! Our Fit Kit adjustments can be applied to many different designs and patterns, making them a valuable resource to add to your sewing kit. 

Released with all our new patterns as part of our Curated by ITF subscription, they’re now available as a standalone resource OR bundled with the related pattern at a significant discount!

Nadia wearing a black ikat Sawtell dress.
Back view of Nadia's black ikat Sawtell dress.

“I wanted to share my final version of the Sawtell dress. I’m so happy with it! I’m really glad I did a toile as it allowed me to practice the techniques and check the fit. This is my best sewing to date and thanks to ITF for pushing me to learn new skills!”

Not just for neutrals

Shelby’s Sawtell is giving definite 60s vibes and we’re here for it!

Shelby's 60s inspired Sawtell dress.
Shelby's 60s inspired Sawtell dress.
Back view of Shelby's 60s inspired Sawtell dress.

“It was so satisfying sewing the placket and pockets! I was nervous about them but am really pleased with how they turned out.”

Shuay is one of our most adventurous members - she’s always willing to give a new pattern a go and in many different fabrics and iterations!

Shuay's green and blue printed Sawtell dress.
Close-up of Sawtell pockets.
Back view of Shuay's Sawtell dress.

“I made the dress in this busy print. Wanted to skip the collar as I thought the print is too busy for a pattern with collar. I was wrong. The collar made it so fabulous!”

We are so happy with how well-received this pattern has been and we’re excited to see this continue with the extended size range.

If you’ve make a Sawtell garment and share it on social media, make sure you use the Sawtell hashtags - #sawtelldress or #sawtelltop - so we can see it!

Finally, a very big thank you to our photo team members (Sara @fabric_scraps, Melissa @melissalowrydesign and Karina @lovemade.handmade) for their help in photographing the Sawtell patterns in it’s different versions!

Happy sewing,

Emily

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

HOW I PREPARED MY SMALL BUSINESS FOR MATERNITY LEAVE

How Emily prepared her small business for maternity leave.

Hi there!

I wanted to share with you a bit about how we prepared our small, independent pattern design business to allow me to take maternity leave.

As I’m sure you can imagine (or perhaps know from hands-on experience) it’s a pretty major thing for a business owner to take a step back from their own business, particularly when it’s for extended periods of time, and even more so when the business has a very small team. I wanted to share my experience with you, in the hope that it helps other small business owners who might also be navigating similar waters.

Although my partner and I had always planned to have a child, the idea seemed quite abstract - mainly because I am self-employed. There were so many questions that needed to be answered. The main one being how we were going to manage a new baby (and everything involved in having a new baby!) while also keeping the business running. So, from the moment I found out I was pregnant, I began thinking about the changes that needed to be made so the business could continue to function while I went on leave. 

The other major difference between taking maternity leave as a business owner was the amount of time I could take off. With such a small team and a monthly project subscription, we decided that I’d probably need to be back at work after 3 months. 

Emily and Alys in the In the Folds studio.

Up until this point, In the Folds was run by myself and Alys. Between the two of us we managed everything from the big picture work like pattern ideation and design, to the more practical business roles, like answering customer enquiries and managing the books. Between the two of us we agreed that with such a small team and a monthly subscription to maintain, I needed to be back at work after 3 months, and we needed to expand the team.

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

Hiring another staff member

So, I advertised for, interviewed and hired a Communications Assistant (the lovely Xanthe - who you will know if you’ve contacted customer service in the last year or are part of our Curated subscription) so that I could begin handing over some of my work. It was important for me to do this early on in my pregnancy so I could train Xanthe and ensure she felt supported.

With Xanthe now in charge of communications, I could step aside from that side of things and really get into product development so we could start working ahead on our Curated by ITF project schedule.

Using project management software

The next thing I could see needed to happen was transitioning us over to more robust project management software. We had been using Trello up until that point, which had always done the job, but with the growth of the team we noticed that it relied too much on my input to make it work. We needed an application that would enable us to take everything out of my head and automate it so that when I was on leave I could completely disconnect because the team wasn’t relying on me to tell them the next step. After much trialling and testing we settled on Asana and began the huge job of setting it up (which I must give Xanthe all credit for!). It was a huge job, but one that made a huge impact almost instantly.

Updating our Operations Manual

I’ve used an Operations Manual since hiring my first employee in 2020, but it became more important to ensure that everything was added before I went on leave. So we set about making sure it was up to date.

I’ve always held a lot of the In the Folds processes in my head and my team are used to being able to come to me with any question they have, but we wanted to make sure everything was in there so they could find what they needed and felt supported while I took a break. This was a great thing to do because it forced me to think about the things we were doing and question whether anything could be streamlined further. It also meant that when I signed off for leave, I knew I would only need to be contacted about urgent matters and nothing related to the day-to-day running of the business. This eased my mind a lot as it was really important to me to be able to spend the early weeks of motherhood solely focusing on my recovery and my new bub.

Working ahead of schedule

When you own a very small business, there isn’t the budget to replace a role as you would in a corporate setting or larger business. My amazing employees, Alys and Xanthe, really stepped up to allow me to have time off by doing more hours or taking over jobs I have previously done myself.

But even with the extra hours, they of course couldn’t cover the number of hours I was doing, which meant we had to get ahead of the project schedule before I went on leave and then dial things back slightly while I was away, so that the work was achievable with the smaller team.

To do this, we followed a fairly strict, and jam-packed schedule, working as far ahead as we could (thanks to the project management software we had changed to). Prior to this, Alys and I worked on projects together, but to get ahead we decided to work independently on separate projects and then handover to each other further down the line for suggestions and updates. 

Alys became the wizard of all things operations during this time, and kept her eye on the project timeline to make sure we were keeping up. We managed to get everything done to a point where I could confidently close my laptop, knowing that everything was in good hands! 

I can’t say that it was an easy thing to do to prepare In the Folds for me to take leave, but it’s something that I am so grateful for, and I think it shows that it is possible for small businesses to do, if you’re prepared to get stuck in and do the hard yards. 

Looking back, I can see that the benefits far outweigh the negatives of what it required. It gave me time to really focus on everything happening in my family once our daughter arrived. To be present and enjoy my new family, without the constant distraction of work, because those early moments are fleeting and work will always be there.

If you know anyone in a similar business stage, please share this post with them. Otherwise, happy sewing!

Emily

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

WHY YOU NEED TO ADOPT A SLOW SEWING PRACTICE AND HOW TO DO IT

This year, April 22-29 is Fashion Revolution week.

You’ve probably heard of it. And, I’d say there’s a very high chance you’ve seen the Fashion Revolution campaigns at some point over the last 10 years on social media.

But you might be like me.

Up until now I’ve had a vague idea of it being about understanding where your clothes come from and what they’re made of… But that’s not really knowing about something, is it?

It’s Xanthe writing to you this week. And the truth is, if I didn’t have to write this blog post as part of my job, I probably would have continued on my merry way still not knowing.

If you’re like me, I hope you’ll keep reading because it’s a topic everyone should be conscious of and understand, and it really isn’t discussed enough.

what is fashion revolution week?

In Bangladesh, on April 24, 2013, the Rana Plaza commercial factory collapsed just one day after large structural cracks were discovered. The premises was evacuated and closed.

Except it wasn’t.

The factory housed businesses that made garments for a number of the world’s largest clothing brands. The day of the collapse, workers were ordered to return to work so they could continue to fill their orders. As a result, over 1,130 people were killed and many more suffered extreme physical injuries.

The tragedy was like a switch that turned a spotlight onto the terrible practices of the global fashion industry. It received significant media coverage through articles such as ‘The deadly cost of fashion’ by the New York Times, and ‘The Shirt on Your Back’ by The Guardian that attempted to explain the causes of the disaster from societal and industrial perspectives.

Compelled by the acute impacts of the collapse on the Bangladeshi community, and in an effort to change the broader fashion industry’s status quo, Carry Somers and Orsola de Castro created the Fashion Revolution initiative. For the last ten years, they have campaigned for ‘a clean, safe, fair, transparent and accountable fashion industry… that values people over growth and profit’ by prompting people to ask the clothing brands they support hard questions about how and where their clothes were made, and by whom.

Fashion Revolution Week is held annually on the week surrounding the anniversary of the Rana Plaza disaster. The aim is to continue to amplify the Fashion Revolution cause that seeks radical change in the fashion industry including conserving and restoring the environment and creating societies that thrive.

WHO MADE your CLOTHES?

Considering this is a sewing pattern business that might seem like a pretty strange question to ask. You’re probably thinking, ‘Well, I did. Duh!’

But this was the question that Emily began to consider while studying fashion design at university. You can read Emily’s story here, but to summarise, as she learned more and more about the practices of the fashion industry she became overwhelmed by the realisation that there was a significant cost to the fashion choices she made as an individual, and that someone was paying it, even if it wasn’t her.

the true cost of clothes

The idea that the choices we make have a cost isn’t mind-blowing.

But the removal of the process of making clothes from our day to day life means that many people have no concept of what actually goes into making a garment. For them, it’s just a matter of a few clicks, a couple of days and they’re wearing something new.

As sewists we see this everyday. In fact, if you’ve ever been asked to ‘whip something up’ for someone then you’ve experienced the result of this first-hand. There is no ‘whipping up’ clothing! This is just one example that shows most people have no idea how much work goes into sewing clothes, or appreciate the cost of the process.

The true cost of clothing is far greater than the recommended retail price and it includes the societal and environmental impact of the clothes we choose to wear. But it’s pretty hard to show that on a garment tag, and what the Rana Plaza disaster shows is that many businesses probably wouldn’t want to tell you anyway.

I MADE MY CLOTHES

As sewists, making our own clothes doesn’t make us any less accountable to the issue that Fashion Revolution is trying to address.

Have you ever really thought about where all the materials in the dress you’re making come from? Like the buttons, or the elastic or zip? Or has it also become too easy for us to duck out to our local big box fabric store to grab a few pieces of fabric and notions and whip up a new outfit?

but who made my fabric?

Fashion Revolution have made it easier for us, by reframing the question so it’s more applicable to makers like you and me.

By asking ‘Who made my fabric?’ they’re aiming to expose another level of the opaque fashion industry supply chain so that the overall societal and environmental costs of the materials we buy are clear. So that we know exactly what is going into the garments we are making with our own hands. So that we aren’t making clothing under the flawed assumption that we’re doing ‘a good thing’ simply because we’re making it with our own hands.

counting the cost of what we make

The materials involved in this process of creation that we all love and know as garment sewing have a cost. This is what we need to remember.

We’ve all struggled at some point in our sewing journey with an out-of-control fabric stash. Finding a new fabric in a print and colour we love and seeing all the potential it holds makes us want to buy it! And the abundance of inexpensive fabrics all over the internet makes it very easy to do.

But it’s time to start counting the cost. So, how do we?

Emily believes the answer lies in slow sewing, and this is the ethos that drives every product and resource that In the Folds creates.

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

WHAT IS SLOW SEWING

For In the Folds, slow sewing is about sewing with intention.

More specifically, it's about being mindful of the projects we sew and the resources we use, and it's an environmentally and socially conscious response to fast fashion that focuses on seasonal trends and low cost, low quality clothing that isn’t made to last.

How to become a slow sewist

Keen to begin the journey of becoming a slow sewist? Here’s 7 actions you can take starting today!

  1. Evaluate your wardrobe. We often make more clothes without even considering what we already own. Go through your current wardrobe to understand what you get the most wear out of and why. Think about what’s missing from your wardrobe. For example, perhaps you could do with a plain white shirt to throw on with jeans on a lazy Saturday. Or maybe a good Winter jacket is in order. Our Slow Sewing Planner takes you through the whole process of reflecting, organising and planning your wardrobe so you’re not just making for the sake of it.

  2. Evaluate your fabric stash. If you’re anything like a lot of makers out there, you’ve probably accumulated a LOT of fabric yardage. And when you stop and actually look at how much you have, you might realise that there’s a lot in there that you no longer need or like. Go through your stash and remove anything that no longer ‘floats your boat’. Drop it off at an op shop, gift it to a friend or do a de-stash on your Instagram page to recoup some of the costs. (Just don’t spend that money you’ve made on buying more!!) Bundle up your fabric scraps in piles of similar fabric content and make a quilt, or donate the scraps to a quilting group, a school or a charity that makes sanitary products.

  3. Use what you have and buy less. Plan out your future garment makes based on what you need to add to your wardrobe and the fabric you already have. If you don’t have the right fabric for a project you want to make, consider doing a fabric swap with someone rather than purchasing more. Don’t buy fabric unless you have a specific project in mind for it and you know how much fabric you actually need.

  4. Buy well. If you’re not impulse buying then you’re probably going to have more in the kitty when you do need to buy something, which means you can afford to buy better quality fabric. Good quality fabric is definitely more expensive, but it is often easier to sew with (making your hobby even more enjoyable!), and garments tend to last longer and age well.

  5. Stick to natural fibres. Every time you wash a garment made from synthetic fibres tiny particles enter, pollute and damage our water eco-systems, and they take a very long time to break down (even up to hundreds of years for some products!), and when they do break down they leach toxic chemicals into the environment. Natural fibres break down quickly, and if they’re organic have less impact on the environment. Besides, natural fibres like linen and cotton are much more comfortable to wear because they’re breathable and they feel great against your skin!

  6. Ask the question, ‘Who made my fabric?’. As consumers it’s up to us to hold the businesses we support accountable about who is involved in the production processes of the products they sell. Are workers paid a living wage? Is their work environment safe? Does the manufacturer consider the environmental impact of their manufacturing process? If they can’t give us the answers to these questions, we should take our money elsewhere.

  7. Focus on in-put, not out-put. Make your focus more about skill-building and less about wardrobe building. Focus on improving your sewing skills and become a master of your craft. By doing this you’ll start making clothes you love and feel connected to, which means you’ll love and wear them longer!

I hope this has been an informative and inspiring read and it will help you consider the choices you make as a creative. I know I’ll be making different choices from now on, because I don’t want other people to pay the cost for my bad decisions.

Happy sewing!

Xanthe

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

This week we’re featuring the wonderful Kealy makes from two of our Curated by ITF members!

Jeanne wearing a white Kealy T-shirt with floral embroidery.

Kealy T-shirt by Jeanne

“Although I own an overlocker, I used my sewing machine for this whole project as I wanted to see what my machine was capable of. I love the pattern, and I'm looking forward to making some more!”

Deborah wears a plain black Kealy t-shirt.

Kealy T-shirt by Deborah

“I resisted buying all the pretty fabrics this month and I really just needed a black t-shirt, so I made one.”

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USING SAMPLERS IN YOUR SEWING PRACTICE

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Have you ever heard of sewing samplers?

You may be familiar with the idea of needlework samplers, which have been used for many years by makers as a reference for embroidery patterns or stitches they have learned, but you may not be quite so familiar with the use of samplers when making garments.

Similar to their use in needlework, garment sewing samplers are often using in industry for sewing small examples of techniques that are then used as a reference during the garment construction process.

Our Curated by ITF sewing subscription has a big focus on building our members’ skills and understanding of the garment making process, rather than just making more clothes for the sake of it. We want our makers to be completely happy with the garments they make. To be confident in applying different sewing techniques while improving their skills, so they create a finished garment they are proud of that gets worn over and over again. This is exactly why we’re big believers of using samplers in our home-based sewing practice!

the benefits of sewing samplers

Often, when we try a new technique or skill we launch right into making a garment using it because we’re excited. It’s usually AFTER we’ve cut into our ‘good fabric’ and started sewing that we realise we don’t know how to do it properly or to the standard we’d prefer. Or perhaps when we’ve finished making a garment we might realise we’re not happy with the finish, which then might affect how much wear the garment gets.

There’s lots of reasons why you should include sewing samplers in your practice. Here’s a few:

  • Because they’re small, samplers allow you to quickly practise and perfect new skills and techniques.

  • Samplers minimise waste because they are only a small portion of a garment (for example, an in-seam pocket), and because you are less likely to make mistakes if you’ve practiced before applying a technique to a garment you hope to wear.

  • They remove the pressure of getting it right the first time, because you’re not sewing an entire garment or using your ‘good fabric’.

  • Because you don’t wear them, they’re a great way of using up leftover fabric scraps. The fabric doesn’t have to match and can be patchworked together with a variety of fabric prints and colours.

  • They are a great way of making use of very small pieces of bias binding or interfacing, for example, that might otherwise get thrown in the bin.

One of the main benefits of samplers is that they are excellent references to return to if you need reminding of how to do a particular technique, or the approach you’ve decided you prefer to use. Keeping samplers means that you don’t have to rely on your memory or scribbled (and often unreadable!) notes you made in a hurry on a scrap of paper that’s now somewhere in a pile on your sewing table. These small examples can be stored easily with construction notes and used as a reference to inform future makes.

We used the samplers approach in our Pants Sewing Skills Kit and again in our Sewing Knits Skills Kit. Our members have loved including them in their sewing practice, so we thought we’d share some of their work to inspire you!

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

SHUAY’S stitch SAMPLERS

Shuay has spent a lot of time sewing with knit fabric and thought she had covered all the basics, but after reading through our Sewing Knits Skills Kit she realised there was a lot she didn’t know.

After learning about the stitches that mimic overlocking that can be found on regular domestic sewing machines, she started experimenting with samplers to figure out what stitch was the best option for the stretch fabrics she had in her stash. She found that depending on the fabric used, some stitches could be seen on the outside of the fabric once it was stretched, which is very important information to have when sewing with stretch fabric!

SUTHI’S seam samplers

Suthi experimented with the knit fabric in her stash by creating a range of knit fabric samplers that compared the finish she could achieve using different stitches with a walking foot on her 10 year old Brother domestic machine. Here’s what she sewed:

Top - Medium weight knit fabric with a triple stitch vs lightening bolt stitch.
Middle -Light weight knit fabric with a triple stitch vs lightening bolt stitch.
Bottom - Super light weight, drapey knit fabric with triple stitch vs lightening bolt stitch.

Suthi learned that even with the walking foot her fabric ‘grew’ up to 1cm in length and that she preferred the finished achieved using the triple stitch.

using our knit sampler patterns: emily’s experience

Inside this month’s Sewing Knits Skills Kit and the Pants Sewing Skills Kit we include patterns for knit samplers that allow you to practice particular elements of a T-shirt pattern (because next month we’re releasing the Kealy T-shirt pattern in our subscription!) and some basic skills required for sewing with knit fabric.

Emily used the patterns to create a range of samplers to test various settings on her domestic sewing machine, as well as practice the different techniques we cover in the Skills Kit.

Based on the experience she had sewing these samplers, Emily could see what she needed to practice more to get the finish she wanted, and was able to ask questions in our online community that helped her improve her technique. She’s now feeling confident to tackle next month’s Curated by ITF project, the Kealy T-shirt pattern and we’re waiting with baited breath to see what she creates!

We love seeing our community members becoming confident garment makers, and we hope by sharing these member experience we can encourage you to continue growing your own garment making skills.

If becoming a confident maker is something you want to achieve, you should definitely consider subscribing to Curated by ITF, where you will gain the support of professional garment makers with years of industry experience, as well as be inspired by a community of makers just like you!

Happy sewing!

Xanthe

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

BEHIND THE SCENES: A PEEK AT OUR PATTERN WRITING PROCESS

The pattern writing process might seem like a bit of a mystery to some people, so I thought it would be great to share a snippet of the process we go through.

Specifically, how we choose what finishings to include, and how we decide on the order of construction for the booklets we release for our awesome customers each month.

setting the direction

Okay, so first stop… say hello to Emily and I in the In the Folds studio!

Emily & Alys in the In the Folds studio

Every project we release begins with us having a good long chat about the techniques and skills we want to share. Whether we’re creating a skills resource or a sewing pattern, we ALWAYS focus on what you can learn by making them!

how will we get there?

Once we’ve ticked that off and we know exactly what direction the project is headed in, we chat about the options for finishing techniques and construction order.

This is a stage we both really love. It’s fun to talk through the project and share our ideas. And, this part of the process can vary enormously, depending on the project we’re working on.

Sometimes our ideas will line up perfectly and we know exactly what is needed. Other times our individual experiences with sewing techniques will differ and we’ll have different perspectives on how we should approach the project.

When this happens we’ll discuss the pros and cons of each approach. Not all sewing finishes and techniques suit every application, so we try to base the decision on what is most suitable for the project we’re working on.

Most importantly, we aim to include sewing techniques and skills that our makers will enjoy doing. So, if we don’t think our community will enjoy it or get good results from using it then it definitely doesn’t make the cut!

Once we’re all chatted out, one of us will start to create the content for the project.

We’ll dive into the other areas of creating a pattern in future posts, but today we’re discussing how we create instructions for sewing patterns or samplers. If you’re interested in this topic, you can learn more about how Emily created a pattern for the Gibson loungewear set here.

SAMPLING TO TEST IDEAS

When creating each project, we always sew samples or a complete garment to test out the techniques and order of construction.

Sometimes we know exactly how the steps will be sewn; other times, we experiment and sample with a few different ideas until we come up with the best order for you!

Because so much of our work is computer-based, sewing is a fun part of the process and often a welcome break from the screen! I’ll set myself up for the day and prepare my sewing machine, fabrics, and filming equipment for any sew-along videos or photos.

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

Sometimes we’ll be trialling a few different techniques at the same time and we’ll discover that one method doesn’t work well with another. When this happens we have to adjust, or change completely, the order things are sewn.

If we’re just making adjustments we might sew two alternatives, or go back and just sew and photograph the parts we need for the changes to the construction method. Sometimes if the construction order has changed completely, we’ll sew another version from scratch.

As you can appreciate, it can be a time-consuming process!

For the Sewing Knits Skills Kit samplers, we already knew how most techniques and the construction order would work, which meant I could go ahead and sew each stage and take photos.

I did, however, test two sleeve options for our T-shirt pattern coming next month! I sewed one in flat and one as a set-in sleeve. They both worked well, but we felt the set-in sleeve gave a better finish overall for this pattern.

When I had photos for each stage, I typed up instruction notes and added the photos to each step. We try to keep the wording of our instructions consistent, so I’ll often look back at past projects and adapt them where necessary.

This document is then handed to our illustrator, who works her magic to create the detailed illustrations you find in our sewing patterns.

Pattern layout in design application.

Once we receive the illustrations back from the illustrator, we drop them into our instruction booklets and tweak them to ensure they align with our vision!

If I’ve been working on the instruction booklet, once I’ve finished it I’ll hand it over to Emily (or she’ll hand it over to me!) to have a look over it with fresh eyes, and provide feedback.

Then we whisk it off to our pattern editor for a final check before it heads out to our photo team for testing and photography.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little look inside our creative process! There’s so much that goes on that we can easily take for granted, so if you have any questions, just pop them in the comments and we’ll make sure we answer them!

Happy sewing!

Alys

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

A MAKER'S PERSPECTIVE: WHY LYNN LOVES CURATED BY ITF

Hello everyone!

It’s Lynn here. I’m a relatively new sewist, who’s been as enthralled by reading about sewing, as much as I have been with the act of sewing itself.

So, of course, when the good ladies of In the Folds asked if I would write something about how much I’ve enjoyed sewing with them, I was thrilled! (Thrilled and nervous. But here we go!)

At the end of 2022, I found myself assessing the contents of my wardrobe to see where the gaps were, as well as what needed cleaning out. It was then that it struck me that my oft-repeated and most-worn garments come from Curated by ITF.

I’ve been a part of the sewing subscription since the Acton dress sleeve expansion, and have been working my way through the issues. And it shows in obvious ways - so many In the Folds patterns made! And others that are more subtle - I’m a better maker thanks to the focus the subscription has on beautiful finishes and care.

LYNN’S SAWTELL DRESSES

Case in point: I’ve made nine Sawtell dresses. All my Sawtells have been absolute workhorses in my wardrobe - I love the generous shape, the endless possibilities for hacking (that sleeve expansion!) and enjoy wearing them all so much.

lynn’s rennie dresses

Meanwhile, this Rennie dress (one of three) finally got me over the hump of trimming tiiiiny seam allowances, and now I can see why it matters. Rennie has become my favourite belted dress pattern of any I own.

lynn’s gibson dress

And of course, there’ve also been newer additions, such as the Gibson dress, sewn out of a thrifted cotton-linen bedsheet! This design has unparalleled comfort and *drama* with those sleeves and the swoop of the hem.

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

lynn’s stow dresses

And a new favourite, the delightful Stow dress from the latest issue, with its fun cocoon shape, easy style and versatility. This dress has truly received the most compliments of anything I’ve ever made!

And thinking about why I love the subscription so much, and why it works for me, has so much to do with how it all began. I took up sewing in September 2020, and was hooked, clinging onto it for dear life throughout the pandemic. And at the beginning of my sewing journey, I couldn’t get enough: fabrics, patterns, different shapes, techniques… I wanted to try all of it. 

why curated by itf works for lynn

Since I first started sewing, I’ve felt a strong desire to make. But since that first mad drive to try and make everything, with anything I could find, I’ve slowed down. And with that has come the joy of looking out for different things: clever, thoughtful details; smart, satisfying construction; new skills that expand the repertoire of what I can do… All of which align with the ethos of slow sewing - appreciating what you make, loving the process, and loving the garment that much more for it. 

Which is where Curated by ITF comes in!

This sewing subscription has made me a better sewist. It’s made me choose patterns and fabrics more wisely. And frankly, I love the surprise of not knowing what’s going to be coming my way each month until the week before the new Issue arrives!

In the Folds garments are supremely comfortable, and if any adjustments need to be made to fit my own measurements the instructions and community have you covered. Being able to trust the clean lines and well-drafted designs of the patterns also allows me to experiment with some of the things I love most about sewing: playing with print and texture, and experimenting with new shapes - all to make something thoroughly and distinctively my own.

Each time I wear one of my In the Folds garments, I get a little echo sense-memory of how much I enjoyed the making process. Pair that with the all-day comfort and go-anywhereness of the clothes, and it’s a combo that’s hard to beat.  

But, washing puts additional stress on our garments and is not always necessary. So, when it comes to uniform dressing in the cooler months, it’s good to think about how you can take care of your clothes without the need to wash them all the time.

For example, my original Stow dress is made from a mid-weight denim and I rarely wash it. I designed it to be worn with layers, so I almost always have something under it - a t-shirt, long sleeve top, tights when it’s chilly. This means I can just wash the base layers and the dress itself can be worn numerous times before needing a wash. I spot remove marks and only wash it when necessary. When I do wash it, I turn it inside out and wash in cold water to put as little strain on the garment as possible.

It’s also good to consider what fabrics you like to wear and why. If you prefer natural fibres, think about how you can incorporate these into your uniform pieces. You may think it’s more expensive to use the fibres you prefer, but if you consider the cost per wear of uniform pieces then you’ll see that over time it really pays off.

Thanks so much, Lynn! We absolutely loved seeing inside your wardrobe and hearing about the skills you've learn through Curated by ITF. You've inspired us with your fabric choices and we're rushing off to add some of these to our sewing wish lists!

If you'd like to find out for yourself what it is that Lynn loves about Curated by ITF, join over 700 other makers and sign up to Curated by ITF today!

Happy sewing,

Emily

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

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A GUIDE TO UNIFORM DRESSING

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When we’ve dragged ourself out of bed and are standing in front of the wardrobe at the start of the day it’s not uncommon to feel like we have ‘nothing to wear’.

The wardrobe might be bursting at the seams from all the options it holds, but that’s not what we see…

We see questions. (Does this go with that? Do I feel like wearing that today? Does it need to be ironed??)

And decisions. (Ugh, too early.)

So how can we lower the morning hurdle of ‘what do I wear?’ without resorting to moving to a nudist colony?

Uniform dressing. (You might also be familiar with the term ‘capsule wardrobe’.)

What is uniform dressing?

When you think of uniform dressing you might have some very specific images pop into your head.

Like, Steve Jobs and his black turtleneck, jeans and sneakers, for example.

Or Barack Obama and his grey or blue suits…

Even Karl Lagerfeld with his white ponytail, high collared shirts, black sunglasses and signature fingerless gloves.

These are all extreme examples of uniform dressing, and you might be thinking that wearing the same thing, day in day out, is the last thing you want to do!

And we agree! That’s NOT the kind of uniform dressing we’re talking about. We want easy, not boring!(Phew!)

For us, uniform dressing is about having a few key looks or pieces in your wardrobe that you can pull together quickly to make getting dressed easy. It’s a smaller collection of versatile garments that can mix with a range of other pieces to create different looks.

When I first designed the Stow dress (long before I knew it was going to become an In the Folds pattern), I had no idea it was going to become a major part of my studio/work uniform. I just thought it would be fun to make a denim dress that I could layer over tops and t-shirts in my wardrobe. Within no time it became a constant in my wardrobe - through changing weather and changing seasons - and 6 years later it’s still going strong. It even got me through half of my pregnancy last year!

With the release of the Stow dress pattern in our sewing subscription - Curated by ITF, I’ve been thinking back on the original version and how much I’ve worn it. I’ve realised how great it is to have “work-horse” pieces in your wardrobe that you can just grab and throw on. But I’ve also been thinking a lot about what makes these garments work so well and how we can apply this concept to our daily dressing process a little more thoughtfully.

Here’s what I’ve come up with.

What is uniform dressing to you?

How you incorporate uniform dressing into your dressing practice, and what pieces you incorporate is entirely up to you, and dependant on your daily routine and current wardrobe.

Think about the pieces you wear consistently.

What do you feel most comfortable in?

What pieces in your wardrobe go well with a range of items?

It can be easy to fall into the trap of thinking that uniform dressing has to be all neutrals or black fabric from head-to-toe. This really doesn’t need to be the case - you can have uniform pieces that are brightly coloured or prints.

For me, coming up with uniform or signature pieces depends on the seasons.

In Spring and Summer, my go-to uniform pieces are heavily printed. I find printed dresses particularly easy and comfortable to throw on in the warmer months. Because dresses are usually worn on their own, I don’t have to think about what to wear them with.

In the cooler months my uniform pieces leans more heavily towards the darker tones and denims. I find it easier to layer tones of a similar colour, along with a few pops of colour here and there for added interest.

When I spoke to my colleague, Alys, about uniform dressing, she said her go-to is a printed Barkly skirt (check it out here!) that she can easily throw on with a black t-shirt or top. So as you can see, a uniform piece doesn’t necessarily need to be all neutral!


THINK ABOUT the pieces that work for you

Often you won’t know what these uniform pieces are until you sit down and have a think about what gets the most wear in your wardrobe. You might think you like a lot of glitz and glamour, but the reality is that jeans and t-shirts are your go-tos.

When you’ve come up with a list of items you wear consistently, think about why you wear them. Is it because you like the feel of them on your skin? Perhaps it’s because they’re easy to care for? Or maybe they just make you feel good?

Our Slow Sewing Planner includes a wardrobe reflection flow chart, wardrobe diary and wardrobe evaluation that can help you work through this process, and is a resource you can return to each season, year or whenever you feel like you’re in a bit of a wardrobe slump.

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

Think about fabric

Fabric plays a big part in the pieces that get a lot of wear.

Durable fabrics can last the test of time and be worn over and over. While delicate fabrics might be pretty to look at and be lovely to wear, they might not become the “work-horse” you imagined because of how they need to be cared for.

For example, I have a lot of Acton dresses in my wardrobe, made from everything from printed cotton to silk crepe de chine. The ones that get the most wear by far are the ones made from cotton because I can just throw them in the washing machine. For me, this is very important when thinking about uniform dressing in the Summer.

But, washing puts additional stress on our garments and is not always necessary. So, when it comes to uniform dressing in the cooler months, it’s good to think about how you can take care of your clothes without the need to wash them all the time.

For example, my original Stow dress is made from a mid-weight denim and I rarely wash it. I designed it to be worn with layers, so I almost always have something under it - a t-shirt, long sleeve top, tights when it’s chilly. This means I can just wash the base layers and the dress itself can be worn numerous times before needing a wash. I spot remove marks and only wash it when necessary. When I do wash it, I turn it inside out and wash in cold water to put as little strain on the garment as possible.

It’s also good to consider what fabrics you like to wear and why. If you prefer natural fibres, think about how you can incorporate these into your uniform pieces. You may think it’s more expensive to use the fibres you prefer, but if you consider the cost per wear of uniform pieces then you’ll see that over time it really pays off.

CHOOSING garment style & SEWING PATTERNS

We think it’s a good idea to steer clear of trends when choosing designs for a uniform wardrobe. The goal with uniform pieces is to have them in heavy rotation for years to come. Instead, focus on the shapes and silhouettes you like to wear season after season. The easiest way to work this out is by assessing your existing wardrobe and thinking about the pieces that you feel comfortable in and wear often. 

When you’re purchasing a sewing pattern it’s good to remember that you don’t have to use a pattern exactly as it has been drafted. With a few patternmaking skills you can adapt patterns to be exactly what you need. We’ve all had a garment we love but feel that something is missing something (pockets, a sleeve, or a bit of extra length). By hacking your patterns you can add whatever you need!

What do you think about the idea of uniform dressing? Is it something you might adopt, either completely or in part?

At the very least, we hope this has made you feel more confident to start thinking about uniform dressing and what it means to you. If you’d like to dive in deeper into this topic with us, it’s what we’re all talking about this month with our Curated by ITF community!

Happy sewing!

Emily

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

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TAKE A PEEK INSIDE EMILY'S SEWING SPACE

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Inside Emily's sewing space

When we’re organising our own sewing space it can be helpful to see how others set their areas up. It gives us inspiration and ideas, and often triggers creative solutions for storage problems we might be facing. (That’s why we’ve all got so many Pinterest boards, after all! *wink wink*)

We thought you might like to see how Emily has set up her new(ish) sewing studio. Even though it’s where she operates her business from and you may be sewing for pleasure, a limited budget means that she has had to be creative with her approach. And we can all relate to that, right!?

Come with us as we take a peek inside Emily’s sewing studio!

tell us about your sewing space

I have a studio in a large, creative space with over 20 other artists and creatives. I enjoy having other creative people around to have lunch and a chat with. Running a small business can be lonely, so working in a space like this is a nice way to make sure I don’t go a whole day without talking to anyone!

My studio is a good size, with big windows down one end that make the space lovely and bright.

I have set up the space so it can be multi-use as there a lots of different parts to my business. I need a comfortable computer set-up as I spend most of my working hours at a computer; sewing space with notions and tools within easy reach; as well as a large patternmaking and cutting table.

Storage is also really important as I have lots of fabric for sampling and paper patterns to store.

Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!

WHAT’S IMPORTANT FOR YOU IN A SEWING SPACE?

It’s really important for me to be well organised so I can find what I need quickly and easily.

I’ve always loved the idea of designing spaces to maximise comfort and efficiency so things just work without you having to think too much about it. For me, this means having my most frequently used tools out on the table and having patternmaking paper within easy reach.

I find a pegboard the easiest way to see exactly where everything is, rather than rummaging through a drawer.

For a sewing space to be functional I want as few hurdles as possible in my way, so tidying up at the end of each day or sewing/cutting session is high priority!

ANY TIPS FOR MAXIMISING SPACE?

Yes! Here you go:

  • Hang patterns on a clothes rack. When I didn’t have a studio space I used to hang them in my wardrobe! It’s a great way to keep patterns flat, with the added bonus of being easy to flick through whenever I’m looking for a particular pattern. Using specifications sheets (like the one included in our Curated by ITF Organise Your Stash issue) attached to the front makes it even easier to keep track of what’s in my pattern stash.

  • Take advantage of vertical space. Using wall shelves is a great way to create extra storage space without making a room feel cluttered. It also means things are within easy reach and there is less bending down and rummaging through messy drawers!

  • Have a little bin, thread catcher or even just a bowl on your sewing table at all times. Having somewhere to throw all those threads and fabric trimmings is a game changer! When I started doing this I couldn’t believe how much I was collecting each day. Before this it all just ended up on the floor, which meant I had to vacuum after every sewing session.

  • Keep the fabric stash to a minimum. This one is easier said than done, I know! We all love to buy the pretty fabric, but it’s something I’m always striving for. I like to only buy fabric when I have a specific project in mind. Due to the nature of my business I do need to have some fabric on hand, but I am careful to make sure it’s practical and likely to be used. I love hunting for pre-loved fabric in local charity shops, so sometimes this rule is difficult to stick to!

Happy organising!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

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THREE PATTERNS TO HELP ORGANISE YOUR SEWING SPACE

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Do you love the start of a new year as much as I do?

I love to reflect on the year that's passed, but there's nothing like the feeling of refreshing and opportunity a new beginning brings. And I particularly love the excitement of making ambitious creative plans for the months ahead!

Both Emily and I recently changed studios spaces and we have seen firsthand how impactful a sewing space can be on our motivation and ability to sew, which has inspired this month's Curated by ITF project, Organise Your Space.

THREE LITTLE PATTERNS THAT MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE

When you're setting up or rejigging a sewing space it's easy to get distracted by the BIG things - tables, chairs, shelves and the like. But as we set up our new sewings spaces last year we realised how impactful the little things can be and that we really shouldn't discount them.

That's why we included three sewing room accessory patterns with this month’s Curated by ITF Issue. If you don't have the time or the money (or even the inclination!) to make big changes to your sewing space, these three little patterns will have you feeling just a wee bit more organised in just a short amount of time and with very little financial investment. In fact, they’ll even help you use up some of those fabric scraps we KNOW you’ve got lying around!

the sewing accessories you need (and want!)

One thing we’ve noticed is that makers will often use what’s at hand as a temporary measure to meet a need. Tinned food for pattern weights, clip-seal bags for pattern storage. You know what we’re talking about, right?

And while it’s perfectly acceptable to make-do like this, we’ve found that there will inevitably come a time when you’ve eaten all the tinned tomatoes or the clip-seal bag gets a hole in it… So we wanted to create some alternatives to those items we’re ‘temporarily’ (forever) using.

Our beautiful Project bag replaces crumpled plastic wallets and clip-seal bags.

Our cute Pattern weights replace tins of chopped tomatoes (or lentils or corn or tuna).

Our Overlocker Thread catcher replaces … well… scooping up all those scraps from the floor!

Did you know, you can actually join Curated by ITF just for the community?!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey, but don't want the monthly projects, then our Curated by ITF Supporter tier might be just what you're looking for. You'll receive feedback and advice from other experienced makers and make sewing besties all over the world!

our design process

When we’re designing new projects, we start with a general idea of what we want the issue to be about, then we sit down together and decide the specific content that will be included. Emily and I chat through our thoughts and bounce ideas off each other until we’re happy with what to include.

For this month’s Issue, we had been separately thinking about what we wanted from a project bag, and when we started talking about it we realised our ideas were really aligned! We both wanted it to:

  • Be big enough to fit all of our projects in. 30 x 45cm had worked well for both of our current solutions.

  • Have a pocket to hold printed instructions. 

  • Have a flap opening fastened by Velcro.

  • Have a clear pocket to label what’s inside.

  • Include a hanger tab for easy storage.

Then we spoke about different things we needed in our sewing space and came up with the pattern weights and thread catcher ideas.

As you know, we have a big focus on skill-building in Curated by ITF so we wanted to make sure that these patterns also provided us with an opportunity to learn something new, or practice and hone some skills we already have.

Even though these patterns might look simple, they will definitely help you continue to grow in your sewing practice. Specifically, we cover:

  • Sewing tricky corners. We've got lots of top tips to get a perfect corner. Our overlocker thread catcher is a great time to put this to use!

  • Sewing velcro. Something that’s not commonly used in garment clothing.

  • Sewing patch pockets.

  • Bagging out (sewing something and turning it inside out).

  • Hand-stitching to finish patterns (useful for sewing accessories and linings).

SMALL CHANGES, BIG DIFFERENCE

Sometimes a few small changes to your space can really refresh it and make you want to get back sewing, and that’s our intention with these three little (but very impactful and functional) sewing accessory patterns.

No matter how big or small your space, you can maximise it by getting clever with storage solutions like our Project bag.

We hope they help you help your future-self by setting up your sewing space so it’s easy to get started sewing next time.

Happy sewing,

Alys