THE Q & A SERIES - SELECTING THE CORRECT SIZE
Hi Emily
Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge of all things sewing and drafting with us, I for one soak up everything you post.
I was wondering which size to choose when my measurements fall in the middle of two sizes? My bust is 93cm, do I choose size D or E, and adjust side and shoulder seams for fit later?
This new platform of answering questions is a wonderful way to expand our knowledge of all things sewing and drafting from a trained professional. Thanks again.
- Helen
Scarborough, Australia
Hi Helen,
Thanks for the email.
I am pleased to hear you like the format of this new email series. I am really excited to have the opportunity to connect with more makers through this platform!
This is a great question, and one I can see being very beneficial to a lot of other makers, also struggling with this question - so thank you for asking it!
There is not a straightforward answer to this question, as choosing a size, when you're between sizes (like so many of us are), will often depend on the pattern. In saying that though, it is not a difficult process at all and once you get the hang of what to look for, you will become a natural!
Below I will go through what I think you should consider before selecting a size for some of my patterns (and this should also help you when using other designer's patterns too).
Without all your measurements in front of me, I will take a guess and say that for most of my patterns you will be fine to choose a size D. With a bust of 93cm, your measurement is only 2cm larger than the size D bust measurement, and generally my patterns have a lot of design ease in them, so that 2cm should not make a difference. The only pattern that you would need to adjust would be the Acton dress (due to the fitted nature of the bodice) - more details on this below.
In saying this though, it is always good to know your high bust measurement, as choosing your size based on your high bust measurement will normally give you the best fit (more details on that below).
IN THE FOLDS SIZING
All In the Folds patterns are drafted for a B cup bust. A B cup bust, in sewing terms, is slightly different to what a B cup means when purchasing a ready to wear bra. Basically, it refers to the difference between your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement. I think it's important no matter what pattern you are using, to have an accurate measurement for your cup size, as well as know what cup size the pattern is drafted for. For more information about working out your sewing bust cup size, you can see the introduction section of this post here.
EDIT: 02/02/23 Our latest patterns are now available in two size brackets: sizes A - J and sizes G - P. There is a 4 size overlap (G - J) so that you can grade between pattern sizes when required.
The size A - J pattern is drafted for a B cup bust (5cm / 2in difference between high bust and full bust measurements). The size G - P pattern is drafted for a D cup bust (10cm / 4in difference between high bust and full bust measurements). If your measurements are in the overlap section of our size charts (G - J), w suggest using the G-P range to achieve the best fit.
You can find our updated sizing chart here.
This post from the Curvy Sewing Collective also gives great information about finding your cup size, as well as a list of many designers and the cup size they use when drafting.
Although my patterns are drafted for a B cup bust, most of my patterns have a considerable amount of ease in the bust area (except for the Acton dress), so this also needs to be taken into consideration when selecting a size (and before considering making an alteration).
MAKING A TOILE (MUSLIN)
I am a strong believer in making a toile (some of you might know it as a muslin). Although taking your measurements gives you a really good idea of where to start with selecting a size / making adjustments, nothing beats what you can learn from making a toile. Even though I have been sewing since I was a child, I never make a garment without first making a toile (yes, even for a sack dress!). It means that by the time I get to cutting the "proper" fabric, I can relax and enjoy the process - knowing that the garment I finish with will (most likely) be something that I will love to wear.
For guidance on making a toile, check out this post from the Rushcutter sew-along.
THE RUSHCUTTER
When it comes to making The Rushcutter dress, the your high bust and full bust measurements are the most important measurements to consider. As the dress is slightly A-line in shape (and very boxy), it is most important to get a good fit through the shoulders and neckline, and due to the amount of ease in the waist and hips, it is likely you will be fine to leave the pattern as-is, even if your waist and / or hips are a bigger or smaller size than your bust.
If you have an A cup, B cup or C cup size bust, you should be able to take your high bust measurement and cut the pattern according to that size. If your bust is between sizes it's likely you can afford to go down a size as there is a significant amount of ease at the bust.
To see how much ease is included in a pattern, simply compare the body measurements to the finished garment measurements. For example, the finished garment measurement for a size C is 100cm (39 3/8") and the body measurement for this size is 86cm (33 7/8") - therefore there is 14cm (5 1/2") ease in the bust.
If you have a cup size larger than a C, what you need to do is take your high bust measurement and add 5cm (2in) to it (this 5cm / 2in is the equivalent of a B cup bust - what the pattern is drafted for). Select the size based on your high bust, plus the 5cm (2in). You will need to make a full bust adjustment to change the pattern from the measurement found and your actual bust measurement. A tutorial on doing a FBA can be found here.
The Rushcutter sizing info can be found here.
THE COLLINS TOP
The Collins top is intended to have a substantial amount of design ease in it to create a fun and dramatic shape. For this reason, I suggest focusing on your bust measurements (both high and full bust) when selecting your size, so that you get a good fit through the chest.
Use your high bust measurement to select your size and then your full bust measurement to work out whether or not you need to do a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) or Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). If your bust is more than a couple of sizes bigger or smaller than your high bust, it might be a good idea to make the alteration (if you have an A cup or C cup bust, you will like be okay to cut the pattern as-is, without making the alteration).
If you have a large bust and decide not to do a FBA, you may want to add some extra length to the front of the pattern to ensure the top doesn't become too short. If your measurements are between sizes, I suggest selecting the smaller size due to the amount of ease in the pattern.
The Collins top sizing info can be found here.
THE ACTON DRESS
Unlike the Collins top and the Rushcutter dress, the Acton dress does not have much ease in the bust. It is designed to be a fitted bodice, so selecting the correct size for this pattern is a little more important than the other two patterns discussed.
Again, take your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement to work out if you will need to make a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) or a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA).
If the difference between your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement is greater than 5cm (2in) you will need to do a FBA. If it is smaller than 5cm (2in) you will need to do a SBA.
You should definitely make a toile of this pattern! Even if it's just of the bodice section. By making a toile, you can check the fit, and make any adjustments before cutting into your “real” fabric. It is also important to make a toile for the Acton, as it is difficult to make adjustments to the fit as you go, as the bodice is fully lined.
The other thing that is important to check on the Acton dress, is the strap length. The length of the straps will significantly impact how your bodice sits, so have a play to make sure the "peak" of the bodice (the fullest part) is sitting directly on the fullest part of your bust. This can be tricky to do on your own, so if possible find someone to give you a hand pinning the straps in position on the back.
I hope this helps you with your selecting your size when you're using my patterns, as well as other designers!
Happy sewing,
Emily
RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE
The difference between your high bust and full bust measurements. Look at the introduction of this post.
A guide to pattern cup size - Curvy Sewing Collective. Post can be found here.
How to (and why) make a toile / muslin. Post can be found here.
Making a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). Tutorial can be found here.
Lengthening the Collins top pattern. Tutorial can be found here.
Making a toile of the Acton dress. Tutorial can be found here.
P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series.
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