Hello there!
I bought the Darlow pants pattern a few months ago, because I love how the panels look. And I have really enjoyed making a toile. Your instructions are so good and I appreciate the thoughtfulness that went into the design and all the details.
For these reasons, I really want them to fit! However, I seem to be in between sizes G and H. Size G fits fairly well around my hips but I can’t quite get the waist to close, it’s just a bit too tight, where as size H is just a little too big around the waist, hips, crotch. I’ve made both sizes out of muslin. I’m not sure where to go from here. Would you have any advise? My sewing skills are a little beyond for beginner, but not much more!
Many thanks in advance for any feedback!
All the best from Toronto, Canada!
Florencia
Hi Florencia,
I am so pleased you are making the Darlow pants and have enjoyed working with the pattern so far!
You're right, the Darlow pants are not a regular pattern, so need to be altered in a slightly different way.
STEP 1
If your hip measurement is one size larger than your waist, you can choose to only make alterations to the front leg piece - as illustrated.
Take the FRONT LEG [5] pattern piece that corresponds with your hip measurement.
Mark two lines that cut through the 'yoke' section of the FRONT LEG, being careful to avoid notches.
STEP 2
Use the 'cut and spread' technique* to alter the FRONT LEG [5] piece. To do this, cut in from the top of each line marked in STEP 1 and stop when you get to the seam allowance line. Cut in to the seam allowance from the other side of the line, leaving a small "hinge" that you can use to spread the pattern.
*For more detail on the cut and spread technique, see this tutorial.
STEP 3
In this case of the example, we are adding 5cm (2in) total from the top edge of the FRONT LEG [5] which we refer to as the 'yoke' of the pants. This equates to 2.5cm (1in) added to each piece (as the piece is cut as a pair). The alteration will be distributed through 2 points (the two lines marked in STEP 1) - so 1.2cm (½in) will be added at each point. Tape some paper on one side of each cut line. Mark the amount you will be adding on the piece of paper and rotate the cut piece until the edge lines up with the piece marked. Tape or glue in place.
Re-draw the seam lines with a nice smooth curve.
Mark the amount you will be removing from each point, on one side of the cut line.
You will now need to use the waistband pieces from the pattern size that is one size larger than the leg pieces. Walk the waistband pieces into the top of the FRONT LEG [5] to relocate the notches.
If you would like more info on this particular technique, or any adjustments for the Darlow pants pattern, take a look at the Darlow pants Fit Kit.
Happy sewing,
Emily
P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.
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