ISSUE 170 - TIPS FOR SEWING THE DARLOW PANTS WELT POCKETS

THE Q & A SERIES

TIPS FOR SEWING THE DARLOW PANTS WELT POCKETS

Hello!

The Darlow pants are quite interesting. I assembled my digital pattern and decided to make a full blown muslin with all of the details. I am on the welt pocket portion for View B, and right around step 22/23 I start to lose it. I saw that you had a sew along, but didn't see how to access it.  I went on the internet and watched a welt pocket video, but I think I am missing something.  Do you have a video you would suggest watching?  Right now I have the welt that I ‘winged it’ with, and the other is waiting to be done properly.  The instructions seem quite good, but I think you are trying to explain something a little more detailed.

In advance thank you for any help you can provide.

Regards,
Lauren
United States

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Hi Lauren,

We’re celebrating ‘Make it With Us in May’ in our Curated by ITF community this month, which means our members get to choose any pattern from our current catalogue as their monthly project. 

It’s a good opportunity to work on specific techniques they’ve been wanting to up-skill in, or dive into a project they’ve been thinking about for a while. I especially love seeing members choose some of our older patterns (such as the Darlow pants) because it shows they are still relevant many years on from when they were first released, which is a goal of mine as a designer.

GENERAL TIPS FOR SEWING WELT POCKETS

Getting to your question about the welt pockets in the Darlow pants pattern…

I will be the first to say that welt pockets are a bit tricky. There are many different ways to do them and they are usually slightly different depending on where they are placed on the garment. There are also countless ways to sew a welt pocket which is why I am happy to say I have done the work of trying out all the methods on your behalf to come up with a way that I think gives the cleanest finish. 

I always encourage makers to try techniques like this out on scraps of fabric first. It can be time consuming, but it does give you a chance to practise and also have something to refer to as you’re sewing the real thing. Also, the other reason I give for doing a practice run on welt pockets is that because you have to cut into the fabric of a pattern piece it can be difficult to fix it if you make a mistake. 

The other thing I’d advise is doing one pocket at a time. When sewing a symmetrical garment it is usually faster to sew both things at the same time (so you prepare both pocket bags, cut both welts etc.). But when a skill is new, you’re normally better off doing the process in full on one side and then repeating on the other side. It’s likely you will learn a few things on the first one that you can then apply to the second one.

TIPS FOR SEWING DARLOW PANTS WELT POCKETS

The part of the instructions you mention you’re struggling with is at the point where you are creating the welt. The welt is the rectangle of fabric that is visible on the pocket opening. This step in the process of welt pocket sewing is a common place for sewists to become a little bewildered. The reason for this is that it might not be clear what you are actually doing with this step, so let’s cover that first. 

If you look at step 21 (left image) you will see that the welt is formed by folding piece 18 at the notches. (I have made the piece blue in the illustration.) 

On the right-hand side I have placed the illustration for step 22 where you can see that the welt has been formed. But at this stage nothing is holding the welt in place.

In step 23 the seam line of the bottom of the welt is pinned through the welt so that it has something to attach to. The welt is no longer just a fold in the fabric but is stitched.

In the illustration you can see what is being secured. The stitching won’t show through the welt as we are pinning and stitching through the seam allowance on the inside, but this is the seam that will hold the bottom of the welt in place.

If you’re still not feeling confident in the process, this video will help.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of May to choose a project from our entire pattern and resource catalogue.

• The Darlow pants pattern can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Peppermint Wrap skirt made by @sosewemma

Peppermint Button-up dress made by @rhi___made

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 90 - How to adjust the rise on the Darlow pants pattern

THE Q & A SERIES

How to adjust the rise on the Darlow pants pattern

Hi Emily, 

Firstly I want to say I love your ethos and thank you for designing such an interesting pattern that is the Darlow Pants. I've made two muslins now (one is wearable!) But I wanted to ask if you had any suggestions as to how to best adjust the overall rise on the pants. The issue I'm having is, they are sitting approx 1.5 inches below my natural waist. I am tall (5"10) and carry a lot of my height in my lower torso so it is not unusual to lengthen the rise of pants patterns up to 2.5 inches for me. I tried with my second muslin to lengthen the front and back crotch both by 2" thinking that if it was too much it will be easy to see how much, rather than going under and having to make yet another muslin. However, it really distorted the pattern piece for the upper part of the front leg, and makes me think it needs to have length added to the sides as well as the crotch. I've only ever lengthened the rise on pants with a side seam before. So I'm feeling a little lost as to how to adjust it. 

I do really love the pattern, and think that if I can just work this out it'll make me feel so good seeing them up in my beautiful heavyweight linen ❤️  It's taken me a couple of months to get to this point, and I have really enjoyed your instructions and design. 

Thanks for your time.

A

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Hi there,

I am so pleased to hear you are enjoying the Darlow pants pattern and are working on making the fit just right for you.

You're right, the panel lines on the Darlow pants means that you have to go about things in a slightly different way. I'm happy to say though that it's not too hard at all, just a different approach to what you're used to!

Step 1
Take the pieces from the style you are making (this will work on either style) and mark a horizontal line across each piece in the position you would like to add the length. It’s best to position this line above the curve of the crotch on the FRONT [5]. Use the notches to help you line up the pieces so that you can put the horizontal line in the same position on all the pieces.

Extend the grainline on each piece to that it is on both sides of the line marked. Move the grainline if required (just make sure it’s parallel to the original grainline).

Step 2
Cut through the horizontal lines.

Step 3
Tape pieces of pattern paper on the lower section of each pattern piece (top edge of each piece). Extend the grainline onto the paper.

Step 4
Mark a horizontal line on each piece to indicate how much height you would like to add. This needs to be the same amount for each piece as we are adding length the whole way around the pants.

Step 5
Attach the top section of each pattern piece onto the pattern paper, lining up the bottom edge with the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline markings to help you keep things lined up correctly.

Step 6
Re-draw the seam lines with gentle curves across the alteration.

Finalise the pattern

Once you have made the alteration, just make sure to check the seams. This is really important when making any alterations to a pattern. You can see this post for an example of how to do that.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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resources mentioned in this issue

• Darlow pattern can be found here.

• How to cut fabric without cutting your pattern (much) - Tilly and the Buttons. Tutorial can be found here.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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What you’ve been making

Collins top made by @fabric.swagger

Darlow pants made by @lee_does_stuff_

Rushcutter dress made by
@​melissalowrydesign

Peppermint wrap skirt made by @calexan4

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More posts in the series

ISSUE 65 - Fitting the Darlow pants

Hello there!

I bought the Darlow pants pattern a few months ago, because I love how the panels look. And I have really enjoyed making a toile. Your instructions are so good and I appreciate the thoughtfulness that went into the design and all the details.

For these reasons, I really want them to fit! However, I seem to be in between sizes G and H. Size G fits fairly well around my hips but I can’t quite get the waist to close, it’s just a bit too tight, where as size H is just a little too big around the waist, hips, crotch. I’ve made both sizes out of muslin. I’m not sure where to go from here. Would you have any advise? My sewing skills are a little beyond for beginner, but not much more!

Many thanks in advance for any feedback!

All the best from Toronto, Canada!

Florencia

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Hi Florencia,

I am so pleased you are making the Darlow pants and have enjoyed working with the pattern so far!

You're right, the Darlow pants are not a regular pattern, so need to be altered in a slightly different way.

STEP 1
If your hip measurement is one size larger than your waist, you can choose to only make alterations to the front leg piece - as illustrated. 

Take the FRONT LEG [5] pattern piece that corresponds with your hip measurement. 

Mark two lines that cut through the 'yoke' section of the FRONT LEG, being careful to avoid notches.

STEP 2
Use the 'cut and spread' technique* to alter the FRONT LEG [5] piece. To do this, cut in from the top of each line marked in STEP 1 and stop when you get to the seam allowance line. Cut in to the seam allowance from the other side of the line, leaving a small "hinge" that you can use to spread the pattern.  

*For more detail on the cut and spread technique, see this tutorial.

STEP 3
In this case of the example, we are adding 5cm (2in) total from the top edge of the FRONT LEG [5] which we refer to as the 'yoke' of the pants. This equates to 2.5cm (1in) added to each piece (as the piece is cut as a pair). The alteration will be distributed through 2 points (the two lines marked in STEP 1) - so 1.2cm (½in) will be added at each point. Tape some paper on one side of each cut line. Mark the amount you will be adding on the piece of paper and rotate the cut piece until the edge lines up with the piece marked. Tape or glue in place.

Re-draw the seam lines with a nice smooth curve.

Mark the amount you will be removing from each point, on one side of the cut line.

You will now need to use the waistband pieces from the pattern size that is one size larger than the leg pieces. Walk the waistband pieces into the top of the FRONT LEG [5] to relocate the notches.

If you would like more info on this particular technique, or any adjustments for the Darlow pants pattern, take a look at the Darlow pants Fit Kit.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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resources mentioned in this issue

• The Darlow pants pattern can be found here.

• Adding volume to a pattern - tutorial can be found here.

• Darlow pants Fit Kit can be found here.

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P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi. 

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What you’ve been making

Darlow pants made by @notcathie

Darlow pants made by @threadstaylors

Hove jacket made by @_basic_stitches_

Flynn jacket made by @fabric_scraps

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More posts in the series

ISSUE 36 - Using striped fabric for the Darlow pants

THE Q & A SERIES - USING STRIPED FABRIC FOR THE DARLOW PANTS

Hello!

I have some fine wool that I'm thinking of making the Darlow pants with. The fabric has a very fine stripe. Do you think a stripe would work with this pattern? I'm wondering what the effect would be with many different pattern pieces which all might have the stripes going in slightly different directions!

All the best,

Kirsten

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Hi Kirsten,

I'm excited to hear that you're thinking of making the Darlow pants! I think you could definitely use a fine stripe and I think the effect would be really interesting due to all the panel lines.

I have added thin stripes to the pattern pieces below to give you an idea of how stripes will work on the pattern pieces, and then have added the stripes to the technical sketches so that you can see how the pieces will work when sewn together. 

VIEW A PATTERN PIECES

VIEW B PATTERN PIECES

VIEW A TECHNICAL SKETCH

Please note that the stripes on the waistband won't remain straight like this, due to the shaped waistband.

VIEW B TECHNICAL SKETCH

I hope that gives you a good idea of what your pants could like like if you were to give them a go using stripes!

Happy sewing,

Emily

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resources mentioned in this issue

• The Darlow pants pattern can be found here.

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P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi. 

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What you’ve been making

Collins top made by @raglan.it

Hacked Acton dress made by @sophiegsullivan

Peppermint wide leg pants made by @fabric_scraps

Barkly skirt made by @snipsnipsew

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More posts in the series

ISSUE 32 - Full calf adjustment on the Darlow pants

THE Q & A SERIES - FULL CALF ADJUSTMENT ON THE DARLOW PANTS

Hi Emily,

I love the Darlow pants pattern! The panel lines are so unique and interesting and I have wanted to give the pattern a go ever since you released it.

I made a muslin recently and have managed to get quite a good fit in the waist and hips due to your fantastic Fit Kit, but I have realised they're a bit too tight in the calves. I have done a full calf adjustment with other pants patterns in the past, but have no idea where to start with the Darlows due to all those panels! I'd love your help.

Thanks,
Jenna

Melbourne, Australia

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Hi Jenna,

I'm really sorry I didn't include the instructions about how to tackle a full calf adjustment in the Darlow Fit Kit! It now seems like quite an oversight as I know this is a common adjustment to make to pants.

Any adjustment made to the Darlow pants isn't that straightforward, but once you see how to go about dealing with the panels, it should make sense and hopefully you will see that there are a couple more steps than with a simpler pair of pants, but overall it isn't any more difficult.

For the sake of the example, I will be showing you how to make the adjustment on View B of the Darlow pants. At the end, I will show you how to get started with View A and then you will be able to follow this same tutorial for either style.

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU NEED TO DO A FULL CALF ADJUSTMENT

There are three main ways you can tell if you are going to need to do a full calf adjustment: 

1. Check your toile
If you have made a toile / muslin and your pants are too tight at the calf or bunching up in your calf area, you may require a full calf adjustment. 

2. "Tissue fit" with your pattern
If you’d like to know if you’ll need to make this adjustment before making a toile, simply hold the FRONT LEG [5] piece of the Darlow pants pattern up to your body and wrap the lower section around your calf (you can use a pin to hold in place along the stitch line). You should be able to see if the pants are going to be too tight in the calf area. The Darlow pants are not designed to be tight in the calf - so keep this in mind when deciding whether or not to make the adjustment. 

3. Compare your calf measurement to the finished calf measurement of the pattern
Alternatively you can measure the calf circumference on the pattern piece (again - hold the piece up to your leg and mark where the fullest part of your calf is). Then lay the pattern piece down and take a curved ruler and draw a line across the pattern that remains roughly parallel to the hemline. Measure the line with a tape measure (remembering to measure from stitch line to stitch line so that you don’t include the seam allowance in the measurement). Compare this to your calf measurement, to work out how much you're going to need to add - more about this later on in the tutorial.

HOW TO MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT

PREPARE THE PATTERN

Step 1
Take the FRONT LEG [5], CENTRE BACK PANEL [13] and SIDE BACK PANEL [14] pieces from the Darlow pants pattern. If you think you’d like to go back to the original design in the future, I’d suggest tracing a copy to make the alterations on (although if you are using the PDF version of the pattern, you can always re-print from the PDF later down the track if you need to).

The first step will be to separate the FRONT LEG [5] piece into a front and back (as the alteration will only be made to the back section of the pants). By looking at the design, you can see that the FRONT LEG [5] panel wraps around the leg, removing the need for a side seam in this section. For the adjustment we will need to create a side seam and then revert to the original design after the adjustment has been made.

A. Mark a point on the hemline (on the grey stitch line), about halfway along the line. This does not need to be exact.

B. Circle the notch on the inside curve on the FRONT LEG [5] that indicates the side seam position (the point where the side seam of piece 14 meets the FRONT LEG [5]. Extend this notch so that it meets the stitch line.

Step 2
A. Join the notch circled in the previous step (where it meets the stitch line) to the point marked on the hemline with a straight line.

B. Mark two sets of notches on this line (one single and one double notch). You can put these anywhere on the line that you like, they will just help you stick these two sections back together correctly later in the process.

C. Cut along the line, separating the FRONT LEG [5] into 2 pieces. We will call the section that we removed from the main section the ‘LOWER FRONT LEG’ for the sake of the tutorial.

Step 3
Now what we need to do is put the panels together to create a full back leg pattern piece. 

A. To do this, line up the seam line that joins the CENTRE BACK PANEL [13] and SIDE BACK PANEL [14] at the top and bottom of the pieces. Place stitch line onto stitch line - as if the two pieces have been sewn together. As you can see, there is shaping through the seam, so you will not be able to line the pieces up through the middle section, but you can at the top and bottom. Tape in place with masking tape or scotch tape.

B. Flip the LOWER FRONT LEG piece and line up the stitch line on this piece with the stitch lines on the bottom of the  CENTRE BACK PANEL [13] and SIDE BACK PANEL [14] pieces. You might not be able to get it lined up exactly, but you should be able to get it fairly close. You will notice that there is seam allowance on the side seam of the SIDE BACK PANEL [14], but we don't have it one one side of the LOWER FRONT LEG. Line up the cut edge of this piece with the stitch line. Tape in place.

Now you can see that the back panels resemble an almost standard pant leg! Which means an adjustment is now much more straightforward to make. 

Step 4
Mark the point on the pattern that lines up with the fullest part of your calf. There are two ways you can do this:

1. Hold the pattern piece up to your body and work out where the fullest part of your calf is, in relation to the pattern (you may have done this earlier to see if you needed to make this alteration). 

2. Take a look at your toile. Mark the point where the pants are too tight on your leg and then transfer this marking to your pattern. 

A. Once you have found the fullest part of your calf, mark this line on the LOWER FRONT LEG with a straight line across the piece (running roughly parallel to the hem).

B. Mark another line from the notch on the top edge of the LOWER FRONT LEG (indicating where the panel line meets the LOWER FRONT LEG) down to the hem line. The point where these two lines intersect is where we will be adding width to make the calf circumference larger.

MARK THE CUT LINES

Step 5
Slide a piece of pattern paper under your pant leg. This will help later as you will need something to stick the pattern pieces to when you make the adjustment.  

A. Mark a point on the inner leg seam below the crotch - marking the point on the stitch line. I marked mine about 6cm down from the crotch point. 

Mark another point on the side seam - roughly halfway down the seam. Again, mark the point on the stitch line.

B. Connect the point on the inner leg seam to the top of the vertical line on the LOWER FRONT LEG with a straight line.

Connect the point on the side seam to the same point with another straight line.

C. Cut along the lines - up from the hem line through the LOWER FRONT LEG until you reach the top of the line. Cut along the diagonal lines until you reach the points where they meet the stitching line. Stop there. Cut into the seam allowance towards each point leaving a small 1-2mm “hinge” (a hinge in this sense is a small bit of paper that allows you to adjust patterns, whilst still keeping the piece intact.)

HOW MUCH YOU’LL NEED TO ADD TO THE PATTERN

If you have a toile, you may want to cut up from the back hemline towards the calf and pin in a strip of fabric to see how much width you need to add. This is a good way to quickly see how much more width you need. Take note of the width of the strip at the peak of your calf.

Alternatively, take the finished calf measurement from the pants (found at the beginning of the tutorial) and compare to your own calf circumference. Now consider how much ease you would like in this area.

Ease refers to the difference between your body measurement and the finished garment measurements. Some garments have more ease than others. The amount of ease will depend on the style, fit and design of the garment. As mentioned earlier, the Darlow pants are not designed to be tight around the calf area. 

To work out how much ease you’re going to want, take a tape measure and hold it loosely around your calf to get a feel for how much fabric you will want in this area. Then walk, sit and squat to see that you have allowed enough ease to be comfortable. If the tape becomes too tight, loosen it up a bit and try again.

Once you have this measurement, subtract the pattern calf circumference from your own calf measurement and the difference will tell you how much you’re going to need to add when you make the adjustment. 

MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT

Step 6.
A. Slowly open the pieces up - giving more space at the calf point. You will see that the small hinges allow you to move the pieces while still keeping everything nice and flat (when making adjustments, you always need to check that your pattern pieces are remaining flat as fabric is flat and therefore patterns need to be flat too).

B. Open up the calf by the amount required (check by measuring from one side of the opening to the other on the horizontal calf line). When you are happy with how it’s looking, tape or glue in place onto the paper underneath to keep everything in place. 

TRACE YOUR NEW PATTERN PIECES

Step 7.
Take some fresh pieces of pattern paper and trace each adjusted pattern piece. Be sure to mark the grainline (by tracing the original grainline) and transfer drill holes and notches. I like to trace the stitch line and the cutting line, but it’s up to you - you may just want to trace the cutting line. Where the pattern piece has opened up and the lines have been broken, you will need to mark a line of best fit.

Step 8.
When you get to tracing the LOWER FRONT LEG you will need to re-draw the hem line as there will now be an opening. Take a curved ruler and draw in a nice smooth curve. When tracing this piece - be sure to remember to trace the notches on the temporary side seam that were marked in STEP 2B. 

PUT THINGS BACK TOGETHER

Step 9.
A. Flip the LOWER FRONT LEG and line it back up to the FRONT LEG [5] using the notches you marked to help you. Tape in place.

B. Your hemline might be a little skewed after making the adjustment. Smooth out the curve with a straight or curved ruler.

CHECK THE PATTERN

Step 10.
Check that all your new pattern pieces fit together correctly and notches line up. For guidance on how to check patterns, check out this tutorial.

DRAFT A NEW HEM FACING

Step 10.
The Darlow pants have a hem facing piece. You will need to re-draft this piece to accommodate the alteration. You can refer to this tutorial to do this. 

MAKING THE ALTERATION TO VIEW A OF THE DARLOW PANTS

Step 1.
As we did for View B, line up the panel lines as if they have been sewn together - stitch line on stitch line. Use the notches to help you. As you will see, it will be impossible to get some parts of the panels to line up (as the panels wrap around the body to make a three dimensional tape) - so don't worry. As long as the parts of the seam that will be impacted are lined up, that's all you need to do. In this case it's the back leg section that needs to line up.

Step 2.
Mark in a temporary side seam. You can do this by drawing a straight line from the side seam on the BACK [3] down to the centre of the hem line.

Step 2.
Mark in the alteration lines as we did in STEP 5 for View A and then use the above instructions to continue the alteration.

Whoa! That was a long one, but we got there! I hope this helped you and inspired you to give the Darlow pants a go!

Happy sewing,

Emily

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resources mentioned in this issue

• The Darlow pants pattern can be found here.

• The Darlow pants Fit Kit can be found here.

• Checking patterns: Curved seams. Tutorial can be found here.

• How to Draft a Hem Facing. Tutorial can be found here.

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P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi. 

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What you’ve been making

Darlow pants by @beccamadethat

Darlow pants made by @breadandthread

Darlow pants made by @sew_singapore

Darlow pants and Peppermint Ruffle Sleeve Top made by @icecjan

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More posts in the series

ISSUE 19 - Piping and the Darlow pants pattern

THE Q & A SERIES - PIPING AND THE DARLOW PANTS PATTERN

Hi Emily

I am thinking of purchasing the Darlow Pants pattern. I was curios to know how the outlining on the pants is achieved. Is it bias tape used in the seams to create the borderlines? I did not mention it in the notions. I would like to know before I purchase.

Thanks you,
- Heather

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Hi Heather,

Thank you for reaching out and for your interest in the Darlow pants pattern!

The lines shown on the sample photographs have actually been illustrated on. The panel lines are they key feature of these pants, so I wanted to be sure that customers could see them in the photographs (and I was a bit silly when I chose to sew the samples in black and off white!).

I have seen some customers use piping though to highlight the panel lines - so that could be an option. You can see an example of that here.

The other option would be topstitching along the panel lines to highlight them. An example of this can be seen here.

I hope that helps you decide if this pattern will be a good fit for you!

Let me know if there is anything else I can assist with.

Talk soon,

Emily

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resources mentioned in this issue

• Darlow pants pattern can be purchased here.

• Darlow pants with piping. Instagram photo here.

• Darlow pants with topstitching. Instagram photo here.

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P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi. 

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More posts in the series