Hi Emily,

I am interested in adapting the Hove front to be more like the Flynn, ie even around the hem and not so hi-lo. I can see it would be easy to redraft the hemline but how would this affect pocket length and placement?

Also - how would you line either jacket?

Many thanks,

Krystyna

Hi Krystyna,

This is a great question, and I think this would work really well!

GETTING STARTED

Above you can see the hood pattern piece from the Hove jacket and the front hem facing from the Flynn jacket.

A I have checked the pattern pieces from the Hove and Flynn against each other and as you can see, all you would need to do is extend the centre front seam and hemline with straight lines.

B To do this, attach some paper to the back of the Hove front piece, filling the gap in the hemline. Take a ruler and extend the centre front seam. Extend the side seam at the hem with a straight line, meeting the new centre front line at a right (90 degree) angle.

The only thing you will need to check is the zip length. You could have a zip that goes all the way to the bottom (I think a double ended zip could work really well), but just need to check what zip lengths are available in relation to the length of the seam.

Alter the pocket

As for the pocket, I would just be straightening it out along the bottom, so that it runs parallel to the hemline. You no longer need the shaping, and it will be fine to have it not go all the way to the hemline (in the Flynn jacket it's like this). If you were to extend it to the hem, like it is in the Hove, you'd end up with very deep pockets, so I'd suggest keeping it the same size that it is.

As for lining the jacket, I have this tutorial on my website with a few suggestions that you can find here.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

The Hove jacket pattern can be found here.
The Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.
How to line a jacket. Tutorial can be found here.

P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

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