Hello Emily!

Looking through the internet for tutorials about pattern making, to “brush up” my old skills, I found your lovely blog!

I am certainly going to watch your interesting instructions and ideas!

But I have a question:

(I am Dutch, so not a native speaker of your language): what does a Bodice block mean? I cannot find the translation for this term! Is a block a sort of ground pattern?

Maybe you could give me an explanation or description of what you mean by this?

Thank you very much in advance!

Francine

Hi Francine,

I am pleased to hear you came across my website! I hope you enjoy the resources I share.

That's a great question!

PATTERN BLOCKS

A pattern block is a foundation pattern that patternmakers use as a base or foundation when drafting patterns. In the US a block is referred to as a ‘sloper’ so you may see these terms used interchangeably in books and blocks, depending on where the author is from.

Patternmakers will normally have a set of pattern blocks that is likely to include:

A skirt block
A bodice block
A sleeve block
A trouser block

Patternmakers may also have a dress foundation block and a jacket block. You can also have more specialised blocks for making swimwear, underwear etc.

They will then use the blocks as a way to draft a new pattern.

Normally a block will:

Be on cardboard - so it is nice and strong and can be used over and over.
Include only a minimal amount of ease. ‘Ease’ is the difference between your body measurements and the garment measurements. Blocks will normally include enough ease to get the garment on, but not much more.
Have no design details - just darts for fitting purposes.
Not have seam allowance.

HOW TO GET YOUR OWN PATTERN BLOCK

There are a number of ways to get a pattern block / set of pattern blocks. You can:

Draft your own. I have tutorials on how to draft a skirt block and how to draft a bodice block on my website, if you’d like to give it a go.
You could purchase a set of blocks.
You could get a custom made block made.

GOING FROM BLOCK TO PATTERN

A pattern is often made using a block, but the difference is that a pattern is ready to be cut from fabric and sewn. A completed pattern will:

Be on pattern paper or cardboard - depending on your preference. For home sewing, it is most common to have patterns on paper, but if you have a pattern you keep coming back to, it may be worth transferring to cardboard for safe keeping!
Include enough ease to make the garment comfortable to wear, sit and stand in. This will depend on the style / design of the garment and your preferences.
Have design details that deviate from the block. The options here are endless. Some patterns are similar to the block and just feature a few design details such as panel lines, while some patterns drafted blocks do not resemble the block at all.
Have seam allowance.

To design a pattern from a block, there are a number of common techniques you might use. Some examples of these can be found on the In the Folds blog:

Although these tutorials will show you how to go about the techniques required, you may want to learn more about design principles before trying to apply them to patterns. A good place to start would be The Cutting Class, which has a great combination of fashion and technical content.

PATTERN BLOCKS FOR HOME SEWING

You may be wondering what you would want to do with a pattern block as a home sewist… You can use pattern blocks for drafting your own patterns, but I’d strongly suggest getting an understanding of patterns before trying this. To build up knowledge of patterns, start using patterns! There are so many great independent designers out there that are worth checking out, so this is where I suggest you start. This way you can build up your knowledge about fit, pattern markings and design, without having to do all the work of drafting a pattern from scratch (I can tell you from experience, drafting patterns takes some time!). It will also get you in the headspace of thinking about seam finishes and construction techniques, because remember, if you draft your own patterns, you won’t have an instruction booklet to go alongside it.

The other thing you might use blocks for is to check what fitting alterations you might need to do to a purchased pattern. If you have pattern blocks that fit you well, you can then compare aspects of your blocks to patterns you have purchased to see what alterations you need to make to achieve a good fit. For example, you may check the shoulder length on your block up against a pattern to see if you need to do a broad or narrow shoulder adjustment.

I hope that sheds some light on the differences between pattern blocks and sewing patterns for you!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

How to draft a skirt block. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft a bodice block. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft a simple summer top. Tutorial can be found here.
How to create princess panels. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft an A-line skirt. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft a wrap skirt. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft a fit and flare skirt. Tutorial can be found here.
Learn about design principles - The Cutting Class.

P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

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