Hello!

I’ve really been loving your Q&A series. I am getting ready to start my own pattern company. I would love to know the steps in the process to getting a successful pattern ready for the market. Also I am not a pattern maker and do want to make my own patterns. How do I go about finding someone to help me make sewing patterns?

Thank you,

May

Fairfax, United States

~

How do you make your gorgeous patterns?

Kate

Camden, UK

Hi May and Kate,

Happy (belated) 2021! I hope you all had a good start to the new year and are staying well at this difficult time. I am very excited to be back with the Q&A series for the new year.

I thought I’d start the new year off with a bang, with a big question - that I will answer over three parts over the next three weeks. There is only so much depth I can go into, but I will try my best to cover all the important parts of my pattern making process. I hope it encourages and inspires you!

DESIGN

I’m never sure where my design ideas come from. They seem to just pop into my mind as an idea I would like to explore or play with. They are never even close to fully formed ideas, just a starting point. As the pattern collection grows, I also think about what the collection is missing and what gaps need to be filled. This may be a specific garment type, or it may also be a finishing technique that I’d like to use in the next pattern.

Sometimes I have an idea of a pattern I would like to create, but it just doesn’t fit the collection or the In the Fold ethos. If that’s the case - it doesn’t make the cut. I also think about what patterns already exist on the market. There are a lot of patterns out there, and I hope to offer patterns that are new and exciting - so it’s always important for me to think about the broader context of my patterns.

Once I have an idea I would like to play with, I get to work. I am not a great drawer, so I rarely draw anything. I just get started on the pattern from whatever picture I have in my mind.

DRAFTING THE INITIAL PATTERN

I normally draft my patterns flat initially. This means that I take a pattern block, or an existing pattern, and manipulate it to create the basis of the new design. I always make the first pattern in its most basic form - no pockets, collars, button plackets etc. This is because I just want to get an idea of the shape and see if I’m on the right track. This also keeps things free and open, so that I can design through drape when the toile is on the stand (mannequin / dressmakers form).

When I have the initial pattern made, I cut it from calico (muslin) and make a toile. For me, this is when the magic happens. So much of my design process happens when I’m drafting a pattern or sewing a sample. As I sew, I often think of design features or things that will make the pattern more interesting to sew.

Once I have a toile, I fit it on my mannequin and check how it’s going. I then start playing with seam lines, pockets, closures etc. Sometimes I cut into the toile to play with an idea, add fabric on, or draw directly onto the toile. I usually sew a toile with a long stitch length so that it is easy to unpick seams if I need to at this stage.

Normally I will make a lot of tweaks and then make the updates to the pattern, re-cut and re-toile. This process always goes on for a while! I keep going until I have a garment that I am happy with.

If all this sounds a bit beyond where your pattern making skills are, I’d suggest checking out this post on starting a business without formal training.

drafting patterns if you’re not a pattern maker

If you are not a pattern maker, but would like to start a pattern company, you will need to find a pattern maker to work with. I have worked with a number of pattern makers over the years in my business for assistance with a range of tasks, and I have found them through word of mouth or simply Googling ‘Pattern maker Sydney.’ Another option would be to contact a university in your area that teaches Fashion Design. They may have some teachers or students they could refer you to. Facebook groups are also another great way to get referrals. If there is a business group in your area, try posting there.

If working with a pattern maker, you will need to get really clear on your designs. It will be helpful if you can draw, but if you can’t, you can find photos of garments you like and annotate the features you like (or even what you don’t like). Prepare to have a bit of back and forth with a pattern maker as you get to know them and they get to know you.

There are a few things you should work on and consider before working with a pattern maker. This will make the process a bit smoother and help you get on the same page in terms of goals and what you want out of the collaboration. Things to consider before sending your designs to a pattern maker:

What size you want the base pattern drafted for - consider bust cup size and height too
What your size chart will be (difference between sizes and how many sizes there will be)
What format you would like the pattern in when it is returned to you (do you want the paper version as well as digital? What file type will you be able to open with the software you are using?)
What is the turnaround time on the project?
How will you communicate updates and edits that you would like to make?

WORKING WITH A FIT MODEL

As I draft to an Australian size 10 (size C in In the Folds patterns), this is about the point where I need to get my fit model in. Although I can sometimes try things on to get a feel for a garment (especially because the things I draft are normally quite relaxed in fit), it is very important to see how the pattern looks - and feels - on a person with the measurements I draft for.

Charlotte, my fit model, is great as her measurements put her in an exact size 10, she doesn’t mind slipping in and out of toiles in front of me, and she is also very honest and direct, which is great for getting feedback.

I like to be organised when conducting a fitting, so that things run smoothly and I don’t miss anything. I make sure to have the following things ready ahead of time:

The toile/s I will be fitting
A notebook. Here I will also take note of specific things I’d like to check so that I don’t forget.
Pen
Sharpies in a few different colours
Masking tape (this is good to tape directly onto the toile if I need to mark something)
Pins
Tape measure
Scissors
Phone for taking photos
A chair (so I can check the fit model can sit down in the garment)

During a fitting, I ask her questions about how the clothing feels. Things like:

How is the pocket positioning?
Is that too tight under your arms?
Could you sit down / run / dance in that?
Are you comfortable?

I check that all the seams are sitting correctly on her body and take notes of any changes that need to be made. If a seam needs to be moved, I normally mark it directly on the toile with a Sharpie. I take photos of the front and back and close-ups of any changes I’d like to make.

FINALISING THE PATTERN

At this point I might be ready to finalise the pattern (depending on how the fitting goes), although normally I need to make a couple more toiles to finalise the design.

At this stage I am thinking a lot about the finishes I’d like to include in the pattern, and what I hope makers will learn by working with this particular pattern. I get really clear on the finishing techniques I’d like to use for the pattern, and have a practice run if any of them are new or tricky.

If needed, I get my fit model back for another fitting (most patterns will be fitted on my fit model 2-3 times before they are finalised) and then when I am satisfied with the pattern, I trace the pieces onto large pieces of paper, ready for digitising.

I think that’s a good place to end part one of this issue. Next week I will go into more detail about digitising the pattern and creating the instruction booklet content.

Happy sewing until next time!

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

In the Folds pattern collection can be found here.
In the Fold ethos can be found here.
How to draft a pattern block - Tutorial can be found here.
Starting a business without formal training - Article can be found here.
In the Folds size chart can be found here.

P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

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