ISSUE 175 - HOW TO FIGURE OUT FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO FIGURE OUT FABRIC REQUIREMENTS WHEN COPYING READY-TO-WEAR

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Many sewists are used to working with sewing patterns that tell them everything they need to make a garment. Construction method, notions, sizing, fabric requirements… Everything is covered in explicit detail and you just need to follow the instructions.

But what about when you’re copying a ready-to-wear garment? 

Or if you’re doing a major hack to a pattern in your stash?

How do you know how much fabric to buy!?

It’s a question we get asked a lot!

We’ve been so excited to see our Curated by ITF members diving into the resources from our Copy Your Clothes series and learning how to copy ready-to-wear garments that they love and can’t bear to part with. And while many of them have been using fabric from their stash to learn these new skills (which we applaud, btw!), we figured it would be helpful to know what to do if they do want to head to a fabric store (because it’s inevitable, right?).

HOW TO FIGURE OUT FABRIC REQUIREMENTS WHEN COPYING A READY-TO-WEAR GARMENT

The following methods can be used when copying a ready-to-wear garment or when pattern hacking. 

Method 1 - Measure each pattern piece loosely and calculate the required fabric. 

Take the pattern pieces and loosely measure them as if they were rectangles. To do this, measure the longest and widest points. As you can see in the example we have given a little extra in both width and length, just to be safe. Remember to keep things straight and the right way up, as this is how the pieces will be cut on the fabric. Take note of the dimensions of each piece.

Consider the width of the fabric you are buying. Common fabric widths are 115cm (45in) and 150cm (60in), although there is a lot of variation, so be sure to check.

For the example, our FRONT [1] piece measures 37cm (14½in) wide and 140cm (55⅛in) long. Our BACK [2] measures 45cm (17¾in) wide and 140cm (55⅛in) long. We will need to cut a pair of each.

For a fabric width of 115cm (45in) we will need to cut the pieces one on top of the other (lengthways), as we won't be able to cut more than 2 pieces for the width (2 fronts = 74cm (29⅛in) and 2 backs = 90cm (35½).

For a fabric width of 150cm (60in), we will have more room to play (see image below). We could cut a pair of backs and a front on the width - leaving one front to cut. This does mean you will need a similar length of fabric, but you will have more fabric to spare from the 150cm (60in) width, which you could use for another project. Remember, this example does not include any additional pieces, such as facings and pockets. See cutting plan examples on the following page. (See image below.)

Remember, fabric may shrink a little during pre-washing, so consider getting a little bit more fabric to account for this.

Method 2 - Create a tape mockup of your fabric width on your floor

Take some masking tape and tape a line on the floor / table the width of the fabric you are considering using. 

Lay out the pattern pieces, ensuring they fit within the fabric width. Take a tape measure and measure the length of your mock cutting plan.

Remember, fabric may shrink a little during pre-washing, so consider getting a little bit more fabric to account for this.

I usually use the second method, and place a tape measure so I can quickly move the pieces around and calculate the total. 

The example below is as if the fabric is on the fold. Always make sure you read the pattern labels so you know if you need to cut 1 pair or cut 1 on fold etc.

Whether it’s with copying your ready-to-wear garments or hacking patterns, I hope this helps you on your sewing journey!

Happy patternmaking,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of July to get part two of our Copy Your Clothes Series, the Make it your own Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Flynn jacket made by @thecrookedhem

Acton dress made by @sewbee73

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 173 - OUR FAVOURITE PATTERNMAKING & GRADING RESOURCES

THE Q & A SERIES

OUR FAVOURITE PATTERNMAKING & GRADING RESOURCES

Hello Emily,

I am a fan of your pattern drafting tutorials and as an aspiring pattern cutter. I would like to know what books you recommend for pattern cutting and grading. I’m American, but I live in Madrid, Spain (my husband is Spanish) and I have been taking an industrial pattern cutting course here. I love the technical part of it, but unfortunately, I find the course really lacking in a lot of information so I have been trying to find good reference books or technical online courses to help fill in the gaps. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much for all of the information you provide on making patterns. It is so helpful and I haven’t found another website that offers such clear and useful tutorials about the technical side of pattern drafting.

All the best,
Marlena

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Hi Marlena,

I am pleased to hear you are enjoying our tutorials! And, great to hear you are doing a patternmaking course. I really think this is the best way to learn, as it gives you a foundation to work from. It makes it a lot easier to look at books or resources and know whether they are worth using.

I don't use patternmaking books that often, but the main one I refer to is the one that we were told to buy for university - Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong. The book has a good foundation on many patternmaking techniques and is a great place to start. Some of the drafts seem a overly complicated for the techniques being achieved, but with a bit of knowledge under your belt, you should be able to discern that. 

I have since purchased Metric Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich and I find this one a bit easier to follow. It’s a small book, but it has a lot of information in it! 

Helen Armstrong’s book covers more of the basics and leaves less up to you to work out yourself, while Aldrich’s book is great if you already feel confident with basic pattern making principles like slash and spread.

I don't think the Armstrong book has anything about grading in it, but the Aldrich one has a little. I feel that in general, there is very limited information about grading available. We did it for just one patternmaking class in my whole fashion degree! If you would like to understand the basics of grading you can check out this tutorial. And we’re going into more depth in next month’s issue of Curated by ITF, with the Make It Your Own Skills Kit.

The other book I like is How Patterns Work by Assembil. It's a big book, so I haven't managed to even scratch the surface with it. It's beautifully done and the creator of that book went to the same university as me, so it makes sense to me as it's written in the same way as I was taught to draft.

Garmenta Apparel is also a great site with lots of good information if you’re interested in the professional side of patternmaking and grading. Her blog and Instagram are definitely worth a look.

I hope that helps! Best of luck with your course.

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of June to get Part One of our Copy Your Clothes Series, the Copy Your Clothes Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Hacked Attwood pants made by @thatsewannabel

Collins top made by Emily, a Curated by ITF member.

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 172 - EMILY'S TIPS FOR COPYING YOUR CLOTHES

THE Q & A SERIES

EMILY’S TIPS FOR COPYING YOUR CLOTHES

Hi Emily

I am really trying to improve/ learn how to cut a pattern from a much loved garment. I manage reasonably with children’s simple clothes but struggle with mine. I’d love to hear any tips you have. 

Thanks, 
Clare

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Hi Clare,

Can I just say first up - you are not the first person who has loved a garment and wanted to know how to copy it so that they could wear it forever. We’ve heard this question SO MANY TIMES in our community.

Because, if you’re someone who has the skills to make your own clothes, it’s highly likely that you’ve thought at some point… “I know how to sew. I can copy that. I mean… how hard can it be?”

And you would be right to think that you CAN copy clothes. Even without unpicking them! (Which is the approach we teach. Seam rippers, begone!)

What most makers don’t realise is they’re actually embarking on a journey that is, while related to sewing a garment, a completely unique skill set. Obviously, there is a lot of overlap between sewing a garment from a pattern and sewing a garment from a pattern you’ve drafted from a finished garment. The knowledge you have from sewing garments from patterns will most definitely help you as you starting to learn patternmaking skills, but there are some pretty important patternmaking foundations that you won’t necessarily be able to ‘figure out’ just because you’ve sewn a few garments from patterns.

Which is exactly why we took a deep dive into the whole process in our Copy Your Clothes Skills Kit.

As you probably know, it’s all about the details for In the Folds. We’re big on learning skills and having strong foundations because this is what helps you get a really beautiful finish. And that’s what gets you making clothes you REALLY love and REALLY love to wear.

WHY COPY YOUR CLOTHES?

What's great about copying clothes you already own is that you know exactly how the garment fits from the original item. When starting with a pattern, you can get a rough idea of how it's going to fit by checking the garment measurements, but it still leaves a lot up to guesswork (which is why we ALWAYS encourage you to make a toile). By using an existing garment as a base pattern, you will have a good idea of how the garment will fit your body. Once you have a pattern, you can then adjust it to fit your body better or alter the design to suit your style or preferences (more on that in the upcoming issue of Curated).

The other great thing about drafting a pattern from an existing garment is that you have a garment to refer to to check seam finishes and details. It’s a great opportunity to learn patternmaking skills without having to start from scratch!

Tips for successfully copying your clothes

Start with a simple garment

Garments can be made from woven or knit fabrics. Choose a garment that does not have design details such as darts, panel lines, tucks or gathers for your first copy. We recommend starting with a T-shirt and then working your way up to more complex patterns. Garments that do not lay flat will be more difficult to trace, so we encourage you to leave those until you have completed a few patterns using this process

And, while a t-shirt might seem like a very simple garment, please don’t be fooled!

Taking a pattern from a t-shirt will teach you a range of techniques that are foundational to patternmaking. It’s really important that you understand why they are done and learn how to do them well when taking a pattern from an existing garment. Remember, any errors that you make on a pattern will be transferred to any and all garments you make from that pattern. So take it slow and learn it well and properly!

 It’s a good place to start as you don’t have to deal with elements such as darts or gathers etc. but it will give you a chance to trace straight seams, curved seams and sleeves.

Have the right tools on hand

A needle point tracing wheel is the most important piece of equipment when copying your clothes. There are various types of tracing wheels available, but for patternmaking it is important you get one with needle points. Ones with smoother or flatter points won’t have the desired effect, and are used for different processes in sewing. A needle point tracing wheel is sharp enough to transfer markings through the garment without damaging your clothes.

If you’re intent on learning patternmaking skills and you don’t have a tracing wheel already, it is a good piece of equipment to add to your toolbox.

You will also need pattern paper and a patternmaking ruler. We suggest a curved ruler too, such as a French curve or Patternmaster.

Consider the condition of the garment you are copying

You can copy a garment in any condition. Don’t worry if it’s a newer garment, or something you can still get a lot of wear out of. For the process we use, we won’t be unpicking the garments to create a pattern so you’ll still be able to wear it afterwards. Bonus!

The better the condition, the easier the garment will be to copy. When clothes begin deteriorating, they often stretch and warp out of shape, so this may make it difficult to trace an accurate pattern. If it’s something you love though, it’s well worth giving it a go, even if it is in poor condition. As you have pattern alteration skills (and if you don’t you should definitely join Curated by ITF!), you will likely be able to tweak any issues that come about due to stretched or warped fabric.

If your garment is in poor condition, we recommend choosing something in better condition for your first attempt to get used to the process and work your way up to the garment in poorer condition.

Prepare the garment to make it as easy as possible to trace

This means:

• Launder the garment. It is important that the garment is in good shape so that the trace is as accurate as possible.

• Iron the garment. Use steam to ensure any areas that have stretched are as flat as possible.

• Get to know the garment. Look over the garment and ask yourself some questions about how it's made:

• Is the garment symmetrical?

• How is it constructed? (i.e. what seam finishes are used?)

• How are openings finished? For example, how is the hemline finished, how are the necklines / armholes finished?

• Does the garment have any special details I need to consider?
  

The basics of copying your clothes

Start by marking the CENTRE FRONT / CENTRE BACK

Find the CENTRE FRONT by folding the T-shirt in half with the front facing out. Align the shoulder seams and the side seams. Lay the piece flat and smooth out any wrinkles.

The fold is the CENTRE FRONT. Place a vertical pin in the CENTRE FRONT at the neckline and the hem. If the back neckline extends above the front neckline, which is common for T-shirts, place the pin through the back neckline.

Take a length of masking tape and place it along the fold from the top of the garment to the bottom, with one edge right up against the fold. Use multiple pieces if required (it doesn’t have to be one length). 

Leave the pins in place so it is clear which side of the tape is the CENTRE FRONT.

With a tracing wheel, carefully trace along the seam lines

Methodically work your way around the garment so that you don't miss a seam.

When using the tracing wheel you need to apply enough pressure for the wheel to leave markings on the paper underneath the garment. Roll the tracing wheel back and forth in the same spot a couple of times before moving along the seam. 

If you make a mistake, go over the seam again, pressing harder with the tracing wheel. This means when you lift the garment it will be clear which markings are the correct markings to follow.

You can use a ruler for straight seams and trace along them with the tracing wheel or just use the tracing wheel and straighten out the line later when you are tracing the markings.

For seams that are on the the outer edge of the garment (e.g., shoulder seams and side seams in the case of a T-shirt) you can choose whether you would like to trace the seam shape with the tracing wheel or a pencil.

Use a ruler on straight seams to help you get a straight line.

Alternatively, mark each end of the straight line with a pencil and then join the points when you remove the garment.

To mark a curved line with a pencil, use a broken line to transfer the shape onto the paper.

Check and true your pattern pieces

As you trace your pieces, check them against the pieces they will attach to to check that the seams are the same length and there is smooth flow through from front to back. This will ensure the pieces fit together accurately and you won’t get any surprises at the sewing machine.

Make a toile

Even though you’ve made a pattern from a garment you already own, if you’re not sure about anything, a toile is ALWAYS a good idea and a great way to check before cutting into your ‘good’ fabric.

Happy skill-building,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of June to get the Copy Your Clothes Skills Kit delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Peppermint Wrap top made by @marfasmakes

Darlow pants made by @kristinkoury

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES