THE Q & A SERIES

Grading between sizes on a panelled skirt pattern

Hello Emily

I am participating in a denim sew-along this month and plan to make your Barkly skirt again.

I am getting the pattern for view A (the shorter length) printed out again so that I can adjust the pattern more accurately and give a better review.

Could you help me with this, please? I didn't understand grading the sizes on your site. I am size E for the waist and C for the hips, I am 32" waist and 37" hips. What is the best way of adjusting this on a panelled skirt, please?

Do I simply put the ruler straight from the waist size E to the bottom hem size C and not alter the curved of the hip where the pockets lie on the side front and back panels.

I plan to use stretch denim and make a lapped zip and so will alter seam allowances for a centre back 1" seam allowance.

Christine

Hi Christine,

I’m thrilled to hear you’re using the Barkly skirt pattern for a sew-along! It's always so motivating when you're sewing with others, which is one of the reasons why we created our Curated by ITF subscription.

In fact, this month in Curated by ITF we are learning all things skirt fitting and the Barkly skirt pattern is our focus. We cover this question exactly (and so much more!) so I can definitely help you out with this!

When to grade between sizes

For many of us, our measurements will range across several pattern sizes, which means we will need to grade between sizes. For example, if our waist measurement is in a smaller size bracket than our hip measurement, we will need to grade up from the waist to the hip on the pattern.

Getting started

Start by printing the pattern in the sizes that you need.

Once printed, you can draw straight on the pattern or take a large piece of pattern paper and lay it over or under the pieces to trace the pattern (depending on whether your paper is transparent or not).

On the Barkly skirt, the WAIST LINE is the top edge of the pattern (this is what attaches to the waist band / waist facing) and the HIP LINE is at the STYLE VARIATION LINE.

Use these instructions if your waist is in a smaller size bracket than your hip.

a On the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [1/12] pattern piece, start at the pattern edge of the size you require for the waist. Take a ruler or French curve and draw a smooth line to the hip of the required size at the hip line. This line needs to become a gentle curve as it approaches the HIP LINE. Follow the edge of the pattern from the HIP LINE down. Repeat for the SIDE FRONT PANEL [2/13] , SIDE BACK PANEL [7/16] and CENTRE BACK PANEL [6/15].

b It is likely that some notches will no longer be in the correct position. Work your way along the new pattern edge and move notches to the new CUT LINE. Adjust the pocket pieces by moving to STEP 2.

Use these instructions if your waist is in a larger size bracket than your hip.

On the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [1/12] pattern piece, start at the pattern edge of the size you require for the waist. Take a ruler and draw a smooth line to the hip of the required size at the HIP LINE. Depending on how many sizes you are grading between, to hit the HIP LINE on the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [1/12], the line may need to become a concave curve. This is not ideal as a seam shape, so we suggest instead drawing the line so it is straight and meets the hem of the smaller size. Follow the CUT LINE of the smaller size from the HIP LINE down to the hem. Move notches to the correct position (see STEP b above).

Repeat for the SIDE FRONT PANEL [2/13], SIDE BACK PANEL [7/16] and CENTRE BACK PANEL [6/15].

Adjust the pocket pieces by moving to STEP 2.

Adjust pocket pieces

Take the SIDE FRONT PANEL [2/13] and trace along the pocket edge of your waist size. We recommend using a coloured pen or highlighter to prevent confusion between sizes.

Trace a copy of the POCKET FACING [4] and POCKET BAG [5] pieces in the larger of the sizes you graded to. Don't cut them out just yet.

Place the POCKET FACING [4] on top of the SIDE FRONT PANEL [2/13] and line up the original notches so it is sitting correctly. Use pins or pattern weights to hold in place. Transfer the new seam lines onto the POCKET FACING [4] and trace the pocket edge. Transfer the correct notches.

With the POCKET FACING [4] still in place, place the POCKET BAG [5] on top, lining up the original notches. Hold in place with pins or pattern weights. Transfer the new seam line onto the piece. Transfer the correct notches.

Cut out your new pocket pattern pieces.

Before cutting your pattern pieces from fabric, check that all the pattern pieces fit together correctly.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

Barkly skirt pattern can be found here.
The Barkly skirt Fit Kit is available exclusively in this month's Curated by ITF subscription. You can learn more about our Curated By ITF subscription here.
Checking patterns: Curved seams tutorial can be found here.