ISSUE 180 - HOW TO CHOOSE GARMENT LINING FABRIC

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO CHOOSE LINING FABRIC FOR GARMENTS

Hi Emily,

Thank you for your Q&A series - it is so informative and a great platform for learning, especially for a beginner like myself.

I am planning to make a summer dress using a sheer polyester fashion/main fabric, and was wondering if it is OK to use lightweight cotton/silk chiffon as the lining fabric? I am not sure if using synthetic and natural fabrics together is going to cause issues in the finished garment.

Many thanks,

Joanne

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Hi Joanne,

This is an interesting question. Normally when thinking about fabric and lining combinations we would be thinking about the silk or cotton being the main fabric and the polyester being the lining (which is very common). In this case, where the polyester is the outer and the silk or cotton is the lining, it will depend on the weights of the fabric and the garment you are lining.

Things to consider when selecting lining fabrics

The best fabrics for linings depend on the purpose and type of garment being lined. Key factors include the drape, weight, breathability, and durability of the fabric. 

When selecting a lining fabric, consider the main fabric of the garment, the intended use, and the desired comfort and appearance. For instance, a summer dress may benefit from a lightweight, breathable cotton lining, while a winter coat might require a warmer, more substantial acetate or polyester lining. 

In fabric stores you will see specific lining fabrics, which are a good option, but you don’t need to be limited by these options if you would prefer to use a fashion fabric.

It is important to choose a lining fabric that is compatible to the outer fabric in terms of care instructions so that the garment can be laundered easily. 

It is best to choose a lining fabric that is:

• Smooth

• Tightly woven

• Opaque

• Slippery (Although not absolutely imperative, a slippery fabric will make the garment easy to put on and take off and will reduce stress and friction on the lining. This is particularly important for coats, jackets and skirts, while it’s likely not a problem for a dress.)

You may also like to consider whether the fabric will crease easily or not. Natural fibres such as cotton and rayon have good breathability but will likely crease easily. Polyester linings don’t crease easily but can be hot and cause you to sweat.

SHOULD YOU MIX SYNTHETIC AND NATURAL FABRICS WHEN LINING A GARMENT?

Mixing synthetic and natural fabrics, like polyester with cotton or silk chiffon, is an option, but there are a few things to keep in mind.

1. Polyester is less breathable than natural fabrics like cotton or silk, so while the chiffon lining can improve comfort, you might still notice some differences in how the fabrics handle moisture and air flow.

2. Synthetic fabrics often have less give than cotton or silk, which may result in the fabrics pulling or behaving differently over time. If your outer fabric has some stretch, make sure the lining fabric accommodates that movement.

3. Polyester is prone to static electricity, which could cause the fabrics to cling to each other. Being natural fibres, silk and cotton may help reduce this, but it's something to keep in mind.

4. You might need to adjust the care routine for the finished dress. Polyester can generally handle machine washing, but silk or cotton chiffon will likely need more delicate care, like hand washing or dry cleaning.

If these factors work for you, the combination of a sheer polyester outer with a natural chiffon lining can create a beautiful, flowing dress perfect for summer.

If it’s a fitted garment, I’d be hesitant to mix the polyester outer with the natural lining as the natural fibres may stretch more than the outer when worn and cause some issues. If it’s a more floaty style I would be less worried about it. Another thing to think about is the amount of give in the two fabrics. I’d be holding them side by side and having a feel - how do they drape, how do they stretch on the crossgrain and the bias? Is it similar?

I hope this helps you on your lining adventure! And if you’re interested in learning more about sewing linings, take a look at our latest skill-building series, the Drafting linings Skills Kit and the Sewing linings Skills Kit.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of September to get part one of our Sewing Linings Series, the Drafting linings Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Rushcutter dress made by @commesew_commeca

Collins top made by @unpo.dappertutto

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 179 - How to line the Collins top

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO LINE THE COLLINS TOP

How do I line a garment? I'm new to sewing, and recently bought the Collins top pattern, but the fabric I bought for it ended up being a bit more sheer than I would feel comfortable wearing.  Do I double up fabric and sew as indicated in the pattern, or can I make this pattern reversible?

Emma

Davis, US

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Hi Emma,

The situation you find yourself in is such a common one! I can certainly relate to falling in love with a fabric, only to find that it needs to be lined, except the pattern I want to use doesn’t include a lining. It’s a bit annoying! 

Thankfully, as sewists who are focused on learning new skills (like patternmaking) we’re not limited to what a pattern provides. 

four ways to line the collins top

When it comes to lining the Collins top specifically, you have a couple of options. 

OPTION ONE: UNDERLINING 

Underlining a garment is the simplest way to stop a fabric from being see-through.

What is underlining?

Underlining is a technique in which a second layer of fabric is cut and sewn together with the outer fabric pieces before the garment is constructed. Unlike a traditional lining (which is a separate layer added after the main garment is assembled), underlining is treated as one with the outer fabric when the garment is constructed. 

You may choose to underline the entire garment, or just part of it. For example, you may decide to only underline the sleeves in a jacket or coat so it is easy to slide the garment on and off.

In the case of the Collins top, you may choose to underline the front and back pieces only and leave the sleeves unlined. A great example of this is when sewing with broderie anglaise. You might leave the sleeves unlined to show off the cut-outs in the fabric, but line the bodice.

OPTION TWO: CREATE A LINING PATTERN 

The next option is to create a separate lining pattern for the garment, which is drafted using the original pattern as a base.

How to create a lining pattern for a garment

To start, it’s a good idea to remove any seams you can. In the case of the Collins top, this means removing the panel lines. 

To do this, place the pieces together with STITCH LINE on STITCH LINE and trace a copy. Make sure to trace all the important markings such as the grainline and notches.

Some panel lines cannot be removed. For example, the sleeve panel seams create shaping through the shoulder so they cannot be removed. 

However, if you want to minimise bulk, you could consider combining the pieces and using darts to create the shaping instead of panel lines.

Consider how you would like the lining to join to the outer garment. In the case of a top or dress, this means considering how the two will meet at the neckline.

OPTION THREE: LINING A GARMENT ‘EDGE TO EDGE’

Lining ‘edge to edge’ refers to a garment construction technique where the lining is sewn directly to the outer fabric along the edges, such that the lining reaches and is attached to the very edge of the garment, rather than being connected to a facing. 

This method is often used if the main fabric (fabric that the garment is made in) is bulky or scratchy. By removing the facings, the main fabric will not touch the skin. It is also a good option for sheer fabrics where you don't want to see a facing or seam through the outer fabric. You can also use this method if you would like a quicker method of lining a garment, as it removes the need to draft a lining pattern and the time it takes to attach the facings.

With this option, you may consider adding interfacing to the neckline and armholes (for sleeveless styles) to prevent stretching. If the pattern has facing pieces, you can use these as the pattern pieces for cutting interfacing. Alternatively, trace the armhole / neckline shape and then cut 5cm (2in) width of interfacing as if you were drafting a facing.

If you would like to use this method, you can use the pattern to cut the lining pieces without drafting a new lining pattern.

OPTION FOUR: ATTACH A LINING TO FACINGS

Attaching the lining to a facing or multiple facings can give the inside a clean and professional look. It also has the added bonus of providing extra structure in areas that are prone to stretching, such as necklines and armholes, which can maintain the garment's shape over time.

Facings help to prevent the lining rolling to the other side, ensuring the garment stays in place and the lining is not visible from the outside.

If you’re interested in learning how to draft a facing for the Collins top, we wrote a post about it here for another Emma. If you would like to draft a neck facing only (which is what we’d suggest you do for the neckline on the Collins top) you can find instructions in the Drafting Linings Skills Kit.

Additional tips for sewing a lining for the Collins top

Alter the hem length.

The hem of the lining needs to be shorter than the outer so that it doesn’t extend beyond the hem. When drafting a lining pattern, shorten the lining by 2.5cm (1in) from the hem.

The other thing to keep in mind when sewing a lining for the Collins top is that the pattern has a high-low hem. This means that you may be able to see the inside of the back of the garment when it is worn. So keep this in mind when choosing the best option for the fabric you are working with.

CAN YOU MAKE THE COLLINS TOP REVERSIBLE?

The idea of a reversible Collins top is very interesting! We haven’t got any resources about making a garment reversible at this stage, so thought we’d link to this great post which covers the things to consider if it’s a project you’re keen to have a crack at.

One thing to consider with making it reversible is how the closure at the neckline will work. In the case of the Collins top, which has a button and loop closure at the centre back, you could consider two buttons, one on the inside and one on the outside. Be sure to choose nice flat buttons so they don’t create bulk. The other option is to remove the closure altogether. Some makers have chosen to do this and haven’t had any problems getting the top on or off. As always, I recommend making a toile to check it works for you!

Happy patternmaking,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Collins top pattern can be found here.

• The Stow dress pattern can be found here.

• How to draft a facing - tutorial can be found here.

• Seamwork article - Make it reversible - can be found here.

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of September to get part one of our Sewing Linings Series, the Drafting Linings Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Sawtell dress made by @sarahissewcrafty

Peppermint wrap skirt made by @laura_made_this

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 178 - HOW TO DRAFT A SKIRT LINING FOR THE ACTON DRESS

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO DRAFT A SKIRT LINING FOR THE ACTON DRESS

Hi Emily,

If one would want to add a lining to the skirt, how should the pocket construction go? (in reference to the Acton dress).

Giulia

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Hi Giulia,

We thought this would be a great question to answer this week as we just released the first instalment of our two-part Sewing Linings Series. I’ll give you a few pointers on how to draft the lining pattern for the Acton dress, but if you want more help with drafting and sewing linings, I recommend you join our Curated by ITF subscription!

When it comes to pockets, you actually don’t need to worry about them in relation to the lining. The pocket will be sandwiched between the outer fabric and the lining.

Construct the dress and pockets as usual and then attach the lining, making sure you don’t attach the lining to the skirt.

One thing that you may do differently is leave the seams raw. When it comes to the linings, if your fabric doesn’t fray too much then you can leave the seams unfinished too.

The Acton dress design includes a number of panels in the skirt. To draft a lining, we begin by removing the panel lines from the pattern.

5 reasons to remove panel lines from a lining pattern

1. Removing panel lines reduces the number of pieces you need to sew together, simplifying the

   construction process and the time it takes to assemble the lining. Fewer seams also means less chance of errors or misalignment during construction.

2. Eliminates unnecessary seams, reducing bulk and potential discomfort. Seam allowances add bulk, and fewer seams mean a smoother, more comfortable lining against the skin.

3. Every seam is a potential weak point that can experience stress and wear over time. By reducing the number of seams, you minimise the areas where the lining could potentially tear or fray.

4. A lining with fewer seams allows the outer fabric to drape more naturally and smoothly, without the interruption of seam lines.

5. Fewer seams create a cleaner, more polished look inside the garment. This is particularly important for high-end or tailored pieces where attention to detail is crucial.

WHY IS THE LINING ON SKIRTS LEFT UNATTACHED TO THE OUTER SKIRT?

There are several very good reasons why the skirt linings are usually left unattached to the hem of outer skirt:

• Independent movement - Leaving the lining to hang freely allows it to move independently of the outer skirt. This prevents restriction and ensures that both layers can flow naturally, enhancing comfort and ease of movement.

• Avoiding constriction - If the lining were attached to the hem, it could constrict the outer fabric, causing awkward bunching, pulling, or riding up as you move.

• Smooth silhouette - Attaching the lining to the outer hem can create bulk at the bottom of the skirt, disrupting the smooth silhouette and clean lines of the garment. An unattached lining maintains a sleek appearance.

• Facilitates alterations - If alterations are needed, having an unattached lining makes it easier to adjust either the outer skirt or the lining independently without affecting the other layer.

• Enhanced breathability - An unattached lining can enhance breathability, as it allows for better air circulation between the layers, contributing to overall comfort.

HOW TO DRAFT A SKIRT LINING FOR THE ACTON DRESS

Step 1

To get started, trace a copy of your skirt pattern and remove any panel lines or unnecessary design details. If the panel lines provide shaping, transform the panel line into a dart or tuck. Be sure to transfer any notches from the pattern onto the lining pattern.

Step 2

Alter the length for the lining. A skirt lining is typically left unattached (not joined to the hem) from the outer skirt hem. This means that the lining pattern needs to be shorter than the outer skirt so that the lining cannot be seen when the skirt is worn.

We recommend shortening the length by 2.5cm (1in). The length should be taken from the hem (not from within the pattern piece as you do when removing length for variation in height between your measurements and the pattern).

Step 3

Add seam allowance to the pattern.

Step 4

Finalise the pattern by adding a grainline and cutting instructions. It's also a good idea to label the CENTRE FRONT and CENTRE BACK.

Industry tip! Cutting instructions on lining patterns are written in green pen / marker so that lining pieces can be quickly and easily identified.

Happy sewing,

Emily

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RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

• The Acton dress pattern can be found here.

• The Acton dress sew-along can be found here.

• More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of September to get part one of our Sewing Linings Series, the Drafting Linings Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

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For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

Sawtell dress made by @sarahissewcrafty

Collins top made by @megmadesewing

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MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES