Marden shirt

ISSUE 174 - HOW TO ALTER A DROPPED SHOULDER TO A SET-IN SLEEVE

How to alter a dropped shoulder to a set-in sleeve.

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO ALTER A DROPPED SHOULDER TO A SET-IN SLEEVE

I prefer fitted button down shirts, but the trend for women's shirts right now tends to be ‘oversized’ with the shoulder hitting in the middle of the bicep instead of the top of the shoulder. Is it possible to buy one of those patterns and change where the shoulder hits? And if it is, how does that affect the rest of the pattern, especially the sleeves? 

Thanks for your help.

Sage
Toronto, Canada


Hi Sage,

We had a few community members with this exact question when we released the Marden shirt, so I thought it was a good one to answer.

Your question touches on two things:

  1. The difference between a dropped shoulder sleeve and a set-in sleeve

  2. What these two sleeve types have to do with the overall fit of a shirt.

So let’s dive in!


the difference between a set-in sleeve and a dropped shoulder sleeve

Difference between dropped shoulder and set-in sleeve.

Our Cartwright dress and top pattern has a set-in sleeve, while our Marden shirt pattern has a dropped shoulder.

Set-in Sleeve

  • Construction - The sleeve is sewn into the armhole, aligning with the natural shoulder line.

  • Fit - More fitted and structured, following the natural contours of the shoulder and arm.

  • Appearance - Provides a tailored, polished look, as the sleeve cap fits snugly around the shoulder.

  • Use - Common in more formal and tailored garments, such as blazers, dress shirts, and fitted tops.

Dropped shoulder

  • Construction - The shoulder seam extends beyond the natural shoulder line, often ending halfway down the upper arm.

  • Fit - Looser and more relaxed, giving a casual and oversized look.

  • Appearance - The sleeve is attached lower on the arm, creating a slouchy, laid-back silhouette.

  • Use - Frequently seen in casual and oversized clothing, such as sweatshirts and t-shirts.

Due to how far the shoulder seam extends beyond the shoulder, the dropped shoulder has a boxier fit.

Difference between dropped shoulder and set-in sleeve.

Above is a comparison of the front pattern pieces. 

As you can see, the dropped shoulder pattern on the right is much boxier. The shoulder seam in our Marden pattern is longer and curved, although this isn’t always the case for dropped shoulder patterns. It can be straight, depending on the fabric it will be made of and the design. The side seam is straight and the armhole is much smaller.

Difference between dropped shoulder and set-in sleeve pattern..

The sleeve required for a dropped shoulder (on the right) has a much lower sleeve cap as it doesn’t need to reach the shoulder. From the bicep line down there is not a huge difference. 

In the case of these specific patterns, the Marden shirt sleeve is more tapered to accommodate the cuff.

Is it possible to buy a dropped shoulder pattern and change where the shoulder seam hits?

The answer is yes, you can definitely purchase one of these patterns with a dropped shoulder and alter the pattern. And we love that you’re considering pattern hacking! Adding these types of skills to your repertoire opens up a whole new world of opportunities when you’re sewing, and it’s what we’re all about at In the Folds.

However, drafting a set-in sleeve from a dropped shoulder sleeve pattern is quite complicated and I wouldn’t suggest you try this.

Instead, if you like elements of a dropped shoulder pattern, but you don’t like the dropped shoulder part, here’s what I recommend. Rather than remove the dropped shoulder sleeve, mash the two patterns together so you can take the elements from each pattern that you want. 

This will be MUCH simpler than trying to draft a set-in sleeve from a dropped shoulder sleeve. The other way around is manageable, but going back is much more difficult.

Below is a step-by-step tutorial of how to do this with the Marden and Cartwright patterns.

How to remove a dropped shoulder from a pattern

For this tutorial I will be transferring the set-in sleeve from the Cartwright dress over to the Marden shirt.

How to alter dropped shoulder to set-in sleeve - step 1.

Step 1

To begin, we need to check we have the CENTRE FRONT marked on both patterns. This will give us a point to match across both patterns. 

Due to the button placket on the Marden shirt, to mark the CENTRE FRONT we need to add to the FRONT pattern piece half the width of the button placket, as the CENTRE FRONT on a button-up shirt is in the middle of the placket where the buttons are placed.

How to alter dropped shoulder to set-in sleeve - step 2.

Step 2

Transfer the neckline from the Marden shirt to the Cartwright dress. This will allow us to attach the Marden collar pieces to this altered pattern.

Place one pattern piece on top of the other, lining up the CENTRE FRONTS. Slide the pattern that’s on top up or down until the STITCH LINES at the shoulder (where it intersects with the neckline) line up. Hold in place with a pattern weight.

How to alter dropped shoulder to set-in sleeve - step 3.

Step 3

Slide some pattern paper under the neckline of the pattern you are altering and stick in place. Trace the neckline onto the paper. 

In this case you will see that we have to trace part of the shoulder seam as well. This is because the Cartwright dress has a lower neckline than the Marden.

How to alter dropped shoulder to set-in sleeve - step 4.

Step 4

Trace the seam line down the CENTRE FRONT. This means you will be able to attach the placket (sometimes called a button band) from the dropped shoulder pattern to the more fitted pattern.

How to alter dropped shoulder to set-in sleeve - step 5.

Step 5

Transfer any other details from the dropped shoulder pattern onto the more fitted pattern. In this case we need to trace the horizontal seam from the Marden shirt onto the Cartwright dress.

How to alter dropped shoulder to set-in sleeve - step 6.

Step 6

The lower panel on the Marden shirt would also need to have the width reduced so it matches the new more fitted version of the pattern. 

Line up the STITCH LINE on the LOWER PANEL with the horizontal seam line marked on the altered pattern. By lining up the side seam STITCH LINE we can just remove the width from the CENTRE FRONT area.

Step 7

Complete the pattern by repeating the process on the back and reflecting the changes onto any other pattern pieces that are impacted. 

In the case of this example, we would also need to alter the LOWER BACK PANEL and the hem facing pieces. Once those pieces are altered we can then use the collar pieces, sleeve, placket, cuff and button placket from the Marden shirt pattern.

Step 8

When the pattern is complete, be sure to make a toile to check you are happy with the fit.

If altering patterns to better suit your preferences is something you have been hoping to learn, this month’s issue of Curated by ITF might be the one for you!

Happy drafting,

Emily


RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • More information about our Curated by ITF subscription can be found here. Sign up during the month of July to get part two of our Copy Your Clothes Series, the Make it your own Skills Kit, delivered straight to your inbox.

  • The Cartwright dress and top pattern can be found here.

  • The Marden shirt pattern can be found here.


For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.


WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING


MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 159 - FORWARD SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT ON A CURVED SHOULDER SEAM

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO DO A FORWARD SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT ON a CURVED SHOULDER SEAM

Hey Emily,

How do I do a forward shoulder adjustment with the sloped shoulder on the Marden shirt???

Suthi, Curated by ITF member


One of the features we love about the Marden shirt is that smooth, shaped shoulder.

And even though some members of our Curated by ITF community weren’t sure about it at first, we were quietly confident that once they made the shirt and put it on, they’d fall in love with it.

And we were right! (See Exhibit A below, a conversation thread from our private Curated by ITF online community.)

Sue wears a printed Liberty poplin Marden shirt in View B.

Sue’s Liberty Marden shirt in View B.

Lynn wears a white striped linen Marden shirt in View A.

Lynn’s linen Marden shirt in View A.

But if, like some of our Curated community members, one of your go-to fitting alterations is a forward shoulder adjustment (FSA), the curved shoulder line may leave you scratching your head. So we’ve come to your rescue with the answer you’re seeking!

Not sure what a forward shoulder adjustment is? Read this tutorial.

how to do a forward shoulder adjustment on a curved shoulder seam

As a quick overview, what we’re going to do is remove the shoulder shaping, make the FSA as we normally would and then add the shoulder shaping back on.

Let’s go!

STEP 1

Draw a straight line through the shoulder STITCH LINE, intersecting with the armhole and neckline at each side on the FRONT and BACK.

STEP 2

Cut along the lines marked in STEP 1 and label as ‘FRONT SHOULDER’ and ‘BACK SHOULDER.’

STEP 3

On the FRONT, mark the amount you would like to move the shoulder seam forward by. For example, if you need to move the seam 2cm (¾in) forward, draw a line 2cm from the cut line. (Not sure how much you need to move the shoulder seam by? Read this post.)

Cut along the line and label the side that’s close to the NECK so you get the piece around the right way when you join it to the BACK.

STEP 4

Stick the piece cut from the FRONT onto the BACK. You may need to add some paper behind the piece to make it easier to attach it accurately. Attach the BACK shoulder shaping back on.

STEP 5

Smooth out the stitchlines around the armhole and neckline where the adjustments have been made.

STEP 6

Attach the FRONT shoulder shaping back onto the FRONT. Smooth out the armhole and neckline (if required).

STEP 7

Line up the FRONT and BACK neckline at the shoulder to check the flow through, and adjust if necessary. Read this post about checking and truing adjustments when patternmaking.

STEP 8

Line up the FRONT and BACK neckline at the armhole to check the flow through, and adjust if necessary.

And that’s it! It’s not as scary as it seems. I hope this helps you get your Marden shirts to fit perfectly.

Happy sewing,

Emily


RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE


For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.


WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING


MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

ISSUE 157 - EXPERIMENTING WITH INTERFACING

Why you should experiment with interfacing.

THE Q & A SERIES

experimenting with interfacing

Hello, I’m new to your site & love the idea of asking a question and getting a helpful answer.

My question is, when using iron on interfacing in a collar or cuff should the interfaced side be outermost or on the underside? And if on the underside, how do you get over the seam allowance (that’s been graded) showing through light weight fabric? I look forward to finding out the right way, thank you.

Alison, UK


Hi Alison!

We’re very glad you’ve found us, and we’re happy to help.

Interfacing is a scary topic for many sewists. When things go well, it is a wonderful thing and can help us create beautiful finishes and looks in our garments. But when things don’t go so well… well, it’s likely that you’ve had a run in with interfacing at some point in your sewing journey (as have the majority of us!) and you’ll know first hand how frustrating it can be to work with.

We wrote a post about what you need to know about interfacing just recently, as it’s an important part of shirt-making, the topic we’re currently focusing on in our sewing subscription, Curated by ITF. This month we’re moving onto the second part of the series, the Marden shirt pattern!

NEW SEWING PROJECT? TIME TO TEST YOUR INTERFACING AND FABRIC!

When it comes to advising about which side of a collar or cuff to interface, it really depends on the fabric and interfacing you’re planning on using for the garment. Which makes it almost impossible for me to provide a definitive ‘do this in all scenarios’ answer (sorry!).

But, I’d start by encouraging you to experiment with the interfacing and fabric you have in mind for your project, particularly when sewing with lightweight fabric. (More on how to do this here.)

Consider the look of the fabric once the interfacing has been fused to it. Is it very obvious and visible through the fabric? Does it negatively impact the look of the fabric, or does it just provide the structure that is needed?

In general, I block fuse both sides of the collar and cuffs. So that's normally what I'd test out first.

As you have mentioned, you may decide that you would prefer to fuse only one of the pieces, rather than the pair. If you're wanting a more relaxed look, you'll generally only fuse the undercollar. This allows the fabric on the top collar to look like the rest of the shirt.

However, if you are using a fabric that is so lightweight it is transparent, then I'd likely be fusing the one that will be on the outside when worn (i.e. the top collar). As you may guess, this is to prevent the seam allowances showing through the collar. If, however, you’re not happy with the finish of the fabric once the interfacing is applied, you may also consider experimenting with using a lightweight cotton as a sew-in interfacing instead.

Hope this helps, and good luck in your interfacing experimentation!

Emily


RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE


For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.


WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING


MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES