ISSUE 149 - RESOURCES FOR PLUS SIZE SEWING

THE Q & A SERIES

Resources for plus size sewists

Hi again,

Could you talk more about your process of expanding your size range? It's really exciting to see your sizing expand!

A common challenge for plus size sewing is a huge lack of resources around how to draft patterns for larger sizes. It seems this is a problem on an industry level in fashion, schools, etc, as well as for home sewists and indie pattern companies.

Clearly knowledge exists, as clothing and patterns have been made in larger sizes. And more and more RTW and home sewing companies are putting out more sizes.

As far as I am aware, there is no book or central resource explaining how to draft larger sizes. As far as I can tell, it seems like indie sewing companies either have people who have figured out their own plus size block / drafting system and/or have access to industry biometric data. But this assumes they either have specialised knowledge already or access to professional resources that are not available to the average home sewist. Ie. it seems like there's a bit of an information desert.

Did you run into this challenge finding useful information in your size expansion process? Did you come across any useful resources? I am so curious about the process.

Thanks kindly,

Claire

Note: This is the second part of my answer to Claire’s questions. You can read part one here.

Hi Claire, 

Unfortunately, you’re right - there isn’t a lot of information about drafting patterns for larger sizes that’s easily accessible for the home sewist. As I mentioned in the part one of my answer, there’s not even much that’s easily accessible for pattern designers! 

The indie pattern design industry has significantly contributed to expanding the available resources, so hopefully in time there will be more. In the meantime, here’s what I recommend.

CREATE A PATTERN CAPSULE

The concept of a pattern capsule is one that really excites us at In the Folds, and is part of the foundation of our monthly project subscription, Curated by ITF. 

Similar to a capsule wardrobe, a pattern capsule is where you have a small number of base patterns that you fit to your specific body shape and measurements and then adapt to your taste and style to create new designs.

If you select a pattern from a company that has drafted their patterns specifically for plus sizes, there will be less work for you to do in creating your pattern block. The main thing to remember when looking for a pattern to use as a base is that the pattern must fit you. It may not fit you perfectly straight out of the packet or off the printer (which is the case for most humans), but you don’t want to be grading up or amending issues with the pattern that are unrelated to fit. 

If you’re interested in finding base patterns to start with, this list will be helpful:

  • We recently extended our pattern sizes to a hip measurement of 184cm (72.5”) and are releasing all our new patterns in this extended size range. We are also working to update our whole portfolio to include the new size range, but you can view what’s available now here.

  • The Curvy Sewing Collective have collated a list of plus size pattern makers and also have a fantastic list of resources for pattern adjustments, fitting tips and pattern reviews. 

  • Jess, from Broad in the Seams has a list of plus size patterns. 

  • The Fat Friendly Pattern Club has a list of beginner friendly patterns. 

  • Muna and Broad patterns are specifically drafted for plus size sewists.

LEARN HOW TO FIT GARMENTS

Learning to fit our own clothes might be daunting at first, but the great thing is that we often need the same adjustments with each garment we sew. So, once you’ve identified the alterations you need to make it gets easier! 

For example, you may find for your body measurements and shape that you need to add length and do a full tummy adjustment, so each time you start on a new pattern you know to specifically check these areas first.

Learning how to fit the clothes you’re making doesn’t have to be an ordeal - there’s lots of resources that can help you do this.

To start with, our Fit Kits help identify the adjustments you need to make to a garment, and then show you how to do each one through illustrated tutorials. For example, our Barkly skirt pattern is available in our full size range and has the Barkly skirt Fit Kit that runs through the most common fitting alterations required for skirts.  (I should also mention that although it was created alongside the Barkly skirt pattern, the tutorials can be applied to most skirt patterns.) 

Ahead of the Curve from Cashmerette is a fantastic book that is described as ‘the first sewing book to empower curvy and plus size sewists to feel body confident by sewing a wardrobe that fits.’ It includes lots of photos that help plus-size sewists identify which adjustments they might need to make to a pattern.

Now that you’ve made the fit alterations on the pattern blocks and you don’t have to worry about doing them over and over again each time you sew a new garment I recommend transferring your base patterns onto card for safekeeping, and then you can move on to the fun part - pattern hacking!

LEARN HOW TO PATTERN HACK

Learning how to sew is simply a matter of skill-building. You learn and practise one skill, and then once you’ve figured it out, you move onto the next skill. Pattern hacking is no different. Once you’ve learned how to fit clothes, learning how to hack patterns into something new is just the next step! It’s just a matter of finding the resources to support you as you learn the skill (which I realise is the problem we’re addressing, but hear me out!).

The methods for hacking patterns into new designs are basically the same, regardless of the size of the intended wearer. Because of this, plus size sewists can make use of the many free online tutorials related to pattern hacking, including those on the In the Folds website.

Because we want our customers and members to become confident sewists we have also created Hack Kits specifically for some of our patterns. In our Curated by ITF membership, we’ve seen how these pattern hacking resources empower sewists to experiment with a range of styles that they may not have considered before, because they’re supported by a resource they can refer to when they have questions.

For example, our Barkly skit Hack Kit includes a range of different skirt styles with lots of techniques relevant to drafting skirts. The added benefit for our Curated by ITF members is that if/when they hit a snag during this process or need clarification about something, they can ask as many questions as they need in our online community and we (or our very clever and supportive community!) will provide the answers.

Thanks for your questions, Claire. I know you’re not the only person who has been frustrated by the lack of size inclusivity in the sewing industries, so I hope this post helps you find some plus size pattern drafting and fitting resources to support you in your sewing journey. Of course, this support can most definitely be found in our Curated by ITF community.

And if you have any further questions, please leave them in the comments section and we’ll help as much as we can.

Happy sewing,

Emily 

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • More information about our monthly sewing subscription, Curated by ITF, can be found here.

  • Read Part One of this question here - Q&A 148: Our experience in extending our pattern size range.

  • The Barkly skirt pattern, Fit Kit and Hack Kit can be purchased as a bundle here.

  • How to transfer patterns onto card - read the tutorial here.

  • The Curvy Sewing Collective resources can be found here.

  • Broad in the Seams list of plus size patterns can be found here.

  • The Fat Friendly Pattern Club list of beginner friendly sewing patterns can be found here.

  • Muna & Broad plus size patterns can be found here.

  • Ahead of the Curve by Cashmerette can be found here.

  • View all In the Folds patterns currently in available in our extended size range in our new Skills Library here and view our sizing chart here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 148 - OUR EXPERIENCE IN EXTENDING OUR PATTERN SIZE RANGE

THE Q & A SERIES

Our experience in extending our pattern size range

Hi again,

Could you talk more about your process of expanding your size range? It's really exciting to see your sizing expand!

A common challenge for plus size sewing is a huge lack of resources around how to draft patterns for larger sizes. It seems this is a problem on an industry level in fashion, schools, etc, as well as for home sewists and indie pattern companies.

Clearly knowledge exists, as clothing and patterns have been made in larger sizes. And more and more RTW and home sewing companies are putting out more sizes.

As far as I am aware, there is no book or central resource explaining how to draft larger sizes. As far as I can tell, it seems like indie sewing companies either have people who have figured out their own plus size block / drafting system and/or have access to industry biometric data. But this assumes they either have specialised knowledge already or access to professional resources that are not available to the average home sewist. Ie. it seems like there's a bit of an information desert.

Did you run into this challenge finding useful information in your size expansion process? Did you come across any useful resources? I am so curious about the process.

Thanks kindly,

Claire

Hi Claire,

This is a fantastic question. You’re right - there is definitely an information desert when it comes to resources about drafting patterns in larger sizes. 

When we decided to extend the In the Folds size chart, this was by far the biggest hurdle.

I remember spending hours and hours googling everything I could think of to try and find the resources I needed to extend our size range. Or to find someone who could help us to do it.

the limitations of my fashion design degree with regards to grading for larger sizes

Although I have a Bachelor of Fashion Design and spent 4 years learning patternmaking, we unfortunately learned very little about extending the sizing of patterns. We learned to draft patterns using size 10 pattern blocks and size 10 mannequins.

We briefly learned to manually grade patterns, but never had to use the skill outside of that one lesson. The grading we were taught was an even grade - which means the pattern gets bigger or smaller by the same amount for each size. Although this works to an extent, there is a limit to how many sizes you can grade in this way. For example, if our base is a size 10, we can’t continue to grade the pattern with an even grade up to a size 36. 

the hurdles of extending a size range

To extend our size chart, what we needed to do was create a new base pattern or block, in a larger size. Then the pattern would be graded from there - which would ensure accuracy because the pattern was actually designed for a larger body, rather than just a smaller size pattern getting larger. 

After much googling, I found a company that could help me with extending our sizing. I had a few very interesting and inspiring conversations with the Director there and felt like her and her team really knew what they were doing.

Their team had a set of Alvanon mannequins and used professional 3D pattern drafting software to draft patterns and check them on 3D avatars. But they mainly worked with ready-to-wear brands, so their final products were patterns that would be sent off for commercial use, rather than home sewing.

Commercial patterns are very different to home sewing patterns

After some back and forth with the business we got our first pattern back, and at face value it looked pretty good. We conducted a fitting and there were a few minor issues that I wanted to discuss with the graders. When I started that conversation with the company, I realised that because they didn’t work within the home sewing space, it was difficult to communicate what I needed. For example, the term ‘Full Bust Adjustment’ is standard in the home sewing world, but this is not a commercial term. In industry, patterns are made in set sizes so there is no need for terms like this. Our plan was always to include a larger cup size in our extended range, so being able to articulate this in a way that would translate to our customers, was very important. 

Following some discussion, I realised that we needed to go back to the drawing board and work with a patternmaker that had experience in the home sewing space. Of course, I was disappointed that the first attempt to extend our sizing had been unsuccessful and quite costly, but it gave us a chance to get clear about what we wanted to do and what was most important to us.

I am a perfectionist and do my best to create patterns that are as close to perfect as possible, so it was important that when we eventually did release patterns in our new size range, the quality and accuracy that our customers have come to expect ran through the extended size range too. 

Plus size patternmaking is a specialist skill

My assistant, Alys, had previously worked with a patternmaker who specialised in plus size drafting and grading and I decided to try working with her. I sent off the same pattern as I had done with the other company and explained what we were trying to achieve. I could instantly tell that she understood our vision, but also had the background and technical skills to carry it out. She then sent back an altered pattern to fit our new size chart and it was time to do a fitting! 

Our patternmaker has now become our most helpful resource when it comes to extending the size range of our patterns. The skills required for this particular part of patternmaking are very niche and it is hard to find a specialist in this area who also has an understanding of the home sewing industry. Her knowledge and experience of plus size patternmaking is what has allowed us to continue to extend the sizing of the patterns in the In the Folds catalogue. 

Checking the fit: model or human?

The next step was to find a fit model to check the patterns on, which also proved difficult. I started researching whether we should be investing in an Alvanon mannequin, but at the end of the day knew this would never replace the need for a fit model.

We have a size 10 mannequin that we use for draping patterns and checking things as we go, but this never replaces the need for checking the fit of a pattern on an actual person. We tried to find a fit model with our size 24 measurements through modelling agencies in Sydney, but didn’t have any luck.

Then, we decided to look to our own network and advertised through our Instagram profile and mailing list, but of course received very few applications as most people who sit at the higher end or outside our current size range had no interest in hearing from us.

We had hoped to find someone we could work with in Sydney, but soon realised we were going to need to cast our net wider and put the call out internationally.

Thankfully, we found someone with our exact sample size measurements who was willing to try fit modelling remotely. We all knew it would be a work in progress and we would need to fine tune the process as we went. And I’m happy to say, this part of the process turned out to be a great success and we now have a fantastic relationship with our fit model. She sews the garment and photographs it on her body and answers questions about the fit.  The main thing we have learned is that it’s important to communicate exactly what we are looking for and the questions we have about the fit of the pattern. Being able to work with the same person each time means things remain consistent and we can compare feedback between patterns.

the advantages of a plus size fit model

The main advantage of using a fit model, instead of just a mannequin, is that a fit model can provide context. They can tell you how a garment feels to wear, but can also compare it to other garments (both in ready-to-wear and garments they have made themselves). This was particularly important when extending our size range. For example, our fit model could say “I often find bicep width to be a problem in ready-to-wear, but I don’t have that problem in this sample.” This kind of feedback helps us know exactly what to look for and where plus size grading sometimes goes wrong, in both ready-to-wear and sewing patterns.

an overview of our plus size pattern grading process

The process of grading for our extended size range looks like this:

  1. We send our largest size from our size A-J range (size 24) to our patternmaker. She alters the pattern to fit our size 24 block (with D cup bust).

  2. We receive the altered pattern back and send it to our fit model to sew and fit. Sometimes we go back and forth a couple of times to make sure we’ve answered all our questions about how the garment fits.

  3. We consolidate the feedback and either proceed of send feedback and alterations back to our patternmaker.

  4. If required, our patternmaker alters the pattern. If the alterations are large scale, we send the updated version back to our fit model. If the changes are minor, the pattern is altered and then goes straight for grading into the full range.

HELPFUL RESOURCES

For designers looking to extend their size range, Alex from @adifferentstitch has a great resource which covers pretty much everything you need to consider. 

You can also see all the patterns currently available in our extended size range here in our new Skills Library!

As I wrote this, I realised your question had two parts to it - what our process was for extending our size range, as well as where to find resources about drafting patterns for larger sizes. This week I’ve covered our process and in the next Q&A instalment I’ll give you some tips on drafting patterns for larger sizes.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Opportunity Knocks: Tips for Inclusive Patterns by Alex of Fat Sewing Club - read the post here, and follow Alex on Instagram here.

  • View all In the Folds patterns currently in available in our extended size range in our new Skills Library here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 147 - TIPS FOR SEWING KNIT NECKLINES

TIPS FOR SEWING KNIT NECKLINES

THE Q & A SERIES

TIPS FOR SEWING KNIT NECKLINES

I am having trouble getting a nice smooth neckband when sewing knit tops. In my first attempt, I cut the neck band the recommended length, but found I could not avoid some  puckering at the front of the top. The next time, I cut the band longer. This mostly avoided the puckering, but my neckband stood up instead of lying flat. In both cases I used a fairly firm knit and cut the neckband from the same fabric, but on the bias, as per the pattern instructions.

Any tips most gratefully received!

Karen

Melbourne, Australia

Hi Karen,

These days, so much of our wardrobe contains garments made from stretch fabric so, sewing with knits is a skill that we’d all love to add to our kit, but many are afraid to try. We were keen to knock this fear on the head with our two-part Sewing Knits series as part of our Curated by ITF subscription, and from the feedback we’ve been getting, I think we’ve succeeded!

Samplers are a great way to learn a new skill and this is the approach we’ve used in part one of the series, the Sewing Knits Skills Kit. Not only does it provide a low-pressure method of tackling a new technique (you can happily practice and make mistakes because you’re not going to wear it!), it’s also low-cost because you can just use fabric scraps you already have in your stash.

The second part of the series, the Kealy T-shirt, is a the perfect next-step pattern. It’s a classic design that allows you to start applying the new skills you’ve learnt, but doesn’t require you to combine them with tricky techniques. Plus, it’s a quick sew, and you can make a few shirts in one sitting which gives you even more opportunity to practice!

But, moving on to your question…

To start with, I am curious about the pattern suggesting you cut the neckband on the bias.

CUT NECKLINES ON THE STRAIGHT GRAIN, NOT BIAS

When it comes to knits, we normally cut the neckband on the straight grain. When sewing woven fabrics and finishing a neckline with bias binding, we cut on the bias. This gives the woven fabric a slight stretch and helps it fit around curves and press nice and flat.

So to start, I’d suggest confirming this aspect of the instructions and consider cutting the neckband on the straight grain instead. 

USE A NECKLINE RATIO

Often patterns call for you to ‘quarter the neckband’ on a stretch pattern for ease of explaining the instructions.

However, because the front neckline is longer than the back, this means the front is stretched more, making the neckband uneven. In the Folds patterns always have notches to distribute the stretch evenly, but if you don't have these notches you can calculate the ratio following these instructions.

Measure your pattern

Record the following measurements of your pattern. Remember to double any measurements which are cut on the fold, and measure the STITCH LINE (the pattern without seam allowance), not the CUT EDGE.

A - Front neckline =
B - Back neckline =
C - Total neckline measurement (A+B) =
D - Total neck ribbing / neckband measurement =

Divide the total neck ribbing (D) by the total neckline measurement (C) to find the ratio.

E - D/C = ratio of neckline = 

E.g. 44/54 = 0.81 ratio.

Then use the ratio (E) and apply it to the front and back neckline (A and B). Once you have these measurements you can mark the notches onto the pattern. Remember to halve the measurements to find the CENTRE FRONT and CENTRE BACK of the neckband / ribbing.

Front ribbing / neckband - Front neckline (A) x ratio (E) =
Back ribbing / neckband - Back neckline (B) x ratio (E) =

Tips for making neck ribbing

If you're creating your own neck ribbing pattern or you need to adapt a pattern to suit your fabric, you can choose the ratio that works best for you. Here are some tips to get you started:

  • Always toile the new neck ribbing pattern in the right fabric before sewing the final garment.

  • You'll notice when using a self fabric (the same jersey as the body of the T-shirt) as a neck band that it has less stretch than a separate ribbing fabric. Ribbing fabric has raised vertical lines.

  • The more stretch the ribbing has, the shorter the neckband should be.

  • A good place to start for a regular crew neck T-shirt and self fabric is to make the neckband pattern around 80% of the neckline measurement. Self fabric won't stretch as much and won't lie as flat as a separate ribbing fabric.

  • It is often a balancing act between getting the neckband to sit flat to the body and not stretching too much that it causes the neckline to gather. Sew a test and tweak the ratio by a few % if necessary until you're happy with the fit.

  • A good place to start for a regular crew neck T-shirt and ribbing fabric is to make the neckband pattern around 70-75% of the neckline measurement.

  • Stretchier ribbing may go below 70%, but if it is stretched out too much, it may create gathers around the neckline.

  • The narrower the neckband, the more likely it is to lie flat. We recommend using 2cm (3/4in) width for self fabric and 2.5cm (1in) for ribbing fabric. These are finished widths, so don't forget to double them and add seam allowance when making your pattern.

PRESS, PRESS, PRESS!

The final thing we want to say is, don’t underestimate the power of steaming (with an iron) when you are sewing a neckband (or anything else for that matter)!

Don't worry if the neckline looks wrinkled after attaching the neckband/ribbing, as long as there are no pleats or puckering. You can see in our example how it completely transformed after pressing.

Using a pressing ham helps a lot when pressing curves like this.

I hope this tutorial helps you achieve a neckband you are happy with!

If you’d like to learn more skills related to sewing knits, we suggest you checkout this month’s issue of Curated - the Kealy T-shirt, along with last month’s issue - Sewing Knits Skills Kit, which you can purchase separately after you sign up.

Happy sewing,

Alys

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The two-part Sewing Knits series includes the Sewing Knits Skills Kit and the Kealy T-shirt pattern, which are available with a Curated by ITF subscription. The Kealy T-shirt pattern is the April project and can be purchased here. The Sewing Knits Skills Kit can be purchased here by current subscribers only. More information about the subscription can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 146 - EMILY’S MATERNITY WEAR SUGGESTIONS

THE Q & A SERIES

emily’s maternity wear suggestions

Hi Emily,

I’d like to know if you have any suggestions about how to adjust patterns for maternity wear?

Thanks,

Ivy

Walsall, UK

Hi Ivy,

This is great timing to receive this question as I have recently had a baby!

Maternity clothing has been a new part of my life since pregnancy last year and the arrival of bub in December. And, I’d love to say I sewed up a beautiful maternity wardrobe to get me through pregnancy and the postpartum months, but the reality was that I was very unwell throughout the first trimester and had very little energy to do anything.

When I was lucky enough to get a boost of energy in my second trimester, the reality (and panic) of running a small business and needing to take time off to have a baby set in and I spent the rest of the pregnancy preparing the business for taking time off.

I wear a lot of loose-style garments and had just hoped I could get through without buying or making anything. I didn’t like the idea of having clothing that was only useful for a specific purpose and then would no longer be needed. But, it turned out that I was a bit naive, and definitely needed some maternity-specific clothing as my bump got bigger, so this is something I can definitely shed some light on now.

MY FAVOURITE MATERNITY WEAR GARMENTS

Maternity jeans

I love wearing jeans and found that I was uncomfortable around the waist early on in pregnancy, particularly because I normally wear high waisted jeans. I bought a pair of maternity jeans and I loved them. They really got me through and I wore them for the majority of my pregnancy and continued to wear them for a few weeks postpartum while everything was still very tender.

If you are up for making some jeans or maternity pants, I think you could definitely give it a go with a pants or jeans patterns you already have. The key is to add the seam for the stretch band very low. I was surprised when my maternity jeans arrived how low the seam is where the jeans join to the jersey waistband. But this was exactly what I needed with my growing bump.

The pair I bought had the front pockets lowered so that they were under the bump band, but if I were to make some I would just leave off the front pockets. To me they were a bit awkwardly placed as they were so low down, so I didn’t really use them and they didn't look great. I did use the back pockets though.

I bought my jeans early on and the bump band was too big, so I took in the sides of the stretch sections with a zig-zag stitch and then let them out as I needed to throughout the pregnancy. If I were to make my own, I’d do the same thing. Make the waist section with plenty of space and then just adjust it as you go, as you don’t know how big your bump will get.

This is a bonus of being able to adjust your clothes! I recommend using a jersey fabric that has good retention so they sit nice and firm and don’t slip down. I think you could definitely make some maternity pants from an elastic waist pant pattern too - and they would potentially be a bit cooler for the summer months. I also think you could use the same concept for a skirt - basically just an elastic waist skirt but with a big belly band at the top. 

I know some people like wearing clothes under their bumps, but I found it much more comfortable wearing things over, as the things that go under just slipped down constantly. This tutorial from Hey June Handmade gives you an idea of how to go about sewing a maternity band on pants or skirts.

Emily wearing a pair of denim overalls, standing in her studio.

Overalls

The other thing I wore a heap was overalls. I bought a style that was quite large in the waist and they got me through most of my pregnancy. This is something you could make - just be sure to choose a loose fitting style. I made sure mine were big enough to wear while pregnant, but also something I could happily wear post pregnancy.

The In the Folds Collins top

As for tops, I have a lot of baggy / billowy tops that worked well with jeans and hid my bump until I was well into the second trimester. I've got a number of Collins tops that were in heavy rotation until they became a little short in the front. But even then, they still worked with something high-waisted and adjustable underneath (like the Wrap skirt that I wore a lot).

This style of loose-fitting top is still working well postpartum as they can easily be lifted for breastfeeding. I normally wear something high waisted underneath, so it doesn’t feel like I’m revealing too much skin and the loose fabric provides some cover. If you’re not comfortable showing this much skin, the other option is to wear a nursing singlet or camisole underneath that allows you to wear any top you like and when you lift it up you have the singlet underneath for coverage.

Loose-fitting dresses

I'd say the other thing to think about might be some loose fitting dresses. I had a few in my wardrobe that got me through the whole pregnancy. By the end it was the jersey ones (like the one above!) I was reaching for most as they comfortably fit over my bump and didn’t restrict movement. Unfortunately though, none of these dresses have centre front openings so they’re out of rotation now that I’m breastfeeding.

If I were to sew some dresses for this period, I’d definitely add a centre front placket so that it could be worn postpartum if you choose to breastfeed. Adding a centre front button closure to the Everyday dress pattern would work well.

I didn’t go out a whole lot during pregnancy, but when I did, it was good to have a couple of things that I knew fit and made me feel somewhat put together! One of these was an Acton dress with sleeves, that you can see me wearing here when I was about 36 weeks pregnant.

Loungewear

Another one of our patterns that would work really well throughout pregnancy and beyond is the Gibson loungewear set. I actually designed this pattern early on in my pregnancy as it was what I imagined I’d be wanting to swan around in when the baby arrived in December (Summer in Australia). But let’s be real, there was no swanning in December. Don’t get me wrong - life was completely magical as my partner and I adjusted to life with a baby, but also completely chaotic!

Now that things have calmed down somewhat, this is exactly the kind of thing I’ve been reaching for, even four months in. I’m still in no rush to put on pants with a fitted waistband, so anything with elastic has been my go-to. The dress and pants views in this pattern make it a versatile maternity wear option!

Robes

Another thing that was in heavy rotation in the early months with bub was my Whitlow robe. As I got the hang of breastfeeding, it was easier not to put a top on and I basically lived in robes (this was possible because it was so warm!). It was also handy to wear in hospital and to throw on when getting up throughout the night for feeds. 

I hope this has been helpful.

It is such a strange time to plan clothes for as everything is changing so fast, but my biggest tip would be to have a few go-to items you can grab and feel good in, and don’t worry too much about wearing the same thing over and over again!

Choose fabrics that launder well and if they don’t need to be ironed, that’s a plus too. Life with a newborn doesn’t leave much time or space for ironing clothes!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Collins top pattern can be found here.

  • The Acton dress pattern and sleeve expansion bundle can be found here.

  • The Whitlow robe pattern can be found here.

  • The Gibson Loungewear set pattern is available as an additional purchase through our Curated by ITF subscription. More information can be found here.

  • The Everyday dress pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

  • The Jersey dress pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

  • The Wrap skirt pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 145 - SEWING KNITS: INDUSTRIAL VS DOMESTIC TECHNIQUES

THE Q & A SERIES

SEWING KNITS: INDUSTRIAL VS DOMESTIC TECHNIQUES

Hi Emily,

How do I achieve the techniques I find in my RTW knits while sewing at home?

Thanks,

Rosa

Hi Rosa,

One thing many sewists strive for is to learn how to make their homemade garments look as finished as ready-to-wear. (Well, not all ready-to-wear, we have to admit… but you know what we mean!) We’re not embarrassed to admit that you can often find us turning a store-bought garment inside out to figure out how a particular finish was achieved!

So, we think it’s a great idea to look in your wardrobe for inspiration!

One of the best ways to learn about different seam finishes and construction techniques is by looking at ready-to-wear garments in your wardrobe or a shop, and taking photos for future reference if you see a finish you like.

This month in Curated by ITF, we’re looking at all the techniques you need for sewing knits at home on a domestic sewing machine.

In industry, they use specialist machines to achieve some of these techniques and of course, it’s unlikely you’ll have access to those kinds of machines, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get the same finish (or at least similar) at home!

Read on to find out about two industry techniques that we like, and we’ll show you how to mimic these techniques while sewing at home on a budget!

Sewing knit seams

In industry, stretch seams are sewn on an overlocker. Four threads are used to maintain the stretch of the garment, with a 6mm (1/4in) seam allowance.

At home, on a regular sewing machine we usually sew a stretch stitch (on some machines, this is called lightening bolt stitch or triple stitch) or a narrow zig-zag stitch, with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. We then finish the edges with a zig-zag stitch, overlocker or an edge foot.

If you have an overlocker, you can, of course, sew the seams directly on the overlocker. However, you must change the seam allowance to 6mm (1/4in) and use four threads to stitch the seam, rather than three.

It’s important to make a sample first, and pull the seam to ensure the overlocker has the correct tension and the seams will hold as they stretch on and off your body.

Hemming Knits

In industry, an industrial coverstitch machine is used to sew the hems of a stretch garment.

At home, we use a twin needle to provide a double row of stitching on the front and a zigzag stitch on the back. You can also choose to overlock the hem first, but this is not necessary as knit fabrics don’t tend to fray. In this month’s Curated by ITF Issue we encourage you to make two samplers to test these techniques so you can decide what works best for you and the fabric you’re working with.

This simple, but effective knit fabric finishing technique saves home sewists both money and space! A stretch twin needle costs around $8 AUD, whereas a domestic coverstitch machine ranges between $1200 - $2000 AUD! (Of course, if you’ve got the budget and the storage space, feel free to invest if you think you’ll get the benefit of it.)

Take a look in your wardrobe

You might find it interesting to see how your RTW garments differ from home sewing approaches. But you shouldn’t feel like you need to invest in expensive technology to be able to achieve it at home. With the right guidance and techniques, we’re certain you'll be pleasantly surprised by the amazing results you can create at home on a domestic machine!

If you’d like to learn more about sewing knits, we’d like to invite you to join us in Curated by ITF this month. We think it’s high time sewists kicked the fear of stretch fabric to the curb and we’re here to help you do just that with a two-part knit fabric series!

This month we’re working through all the knit fabric skills and techniques you need to know to confidently sew stretch on a regular sewing machine, including machine settings, tools, stitch types and more.

Then we’re applying this information through the use of samplers. This is a learning approach that we love to use at In the Folds as it gives you the opportunity to practise and fine-tune skills before applying them to a wearable garment.

Once you’ve worked through the content for the month you’ll be ready to kick on to part two - a T-shirt pattern that we know will become a go-to in your wardrobe and sewing regime!

Happy sewing,

Alys

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The first in a two-part stretch fabric series, the Sewing Knits Skills Kit is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of March 2023. More information can be found here.

  • Stay tuned for next month’s knit T-shirt pattern!

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 144 - HOW TO CUT KNIT FABRIC

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THE Q & A SERIES

TIPS FOR CUTTING KNIT FABRIC

Hi Emily,

I’m struggling to cut knit fabrics. Whenever I cut them out and unpin the pattern pieces, they appear smaller than the pattern! Do you have any tips to help me cut more accurately?

Thanks,

Mel

Hi Mel,

This is actually a really common problem, so I’m glad you asked the question!

This month in our Curated by ITF sewing subscription we’re learning all about how to sew with stretch fabric with our Sewing Knits Skills Kit.

It can be really tricky to cut knit fabric because it often stretches as you pin and cut, meaning the pieces become the wrong size. Just another reason people find sewing with knits a bit frustrating!

I’ve got a few simple tips that will help ease the process and allow you to cut your stretch fabric accurately.

Before you start

Prewash your fabric

When making garments you should always wash and dry your fabric before starting. This is no different for stretch fabric.

I recommend that you use the same method you intend to use when washing your garment after wearing so it doesn’t shrink after the first wash. If you wash in cold water only, then prewash in cold water. If you wash in warm water, then prewash in warm water.

Press your fabric

After you’ve washed and dried your fabric, give it a good press. Take care not to overstretch the fabric while doing this.

If you find that the edges of the fabric are rolling, now is a great time to use some starch spray. This helps to stabilise the fabric and washes out after sewing. And you’ll actually find this helps while sewing the pieces together, as well as when cutting.

Use the right tools

Pinning and cutting with scissors is often what makes the pieces smaller or misshapen.

Instead, use a rotary cutter, weights and a cutting mat. These tools help with accuracy because they stop the fabric from pulling as you cut, which happens as you pin and cut with scissors.

This is a great chance to make the pattern weights from Issue 17 of Curated by ITF!

Cutting technique

Check the grainline

Ensuring your pattern piece is on grain will also help with cutting your knit fabrics accurately.

To do this, take your pattern pieces and lay them on your fabric with the grainline of each pattern piece running exactly parallel to the selvedge.

Use a tape measure to measure from each end of the grainline mark on your pattern piece to the selvedge. Adjust the pattern piece until the measurement is the same from both ends of the grainline mark.

Use the pattern’s cutting plan as a guide to lay out your pieces.

Cut the fabric flat

If a pattern piece says ‘CUT 1 ON FOLD,’ it means to align the pattern piece's fold line with the fabric's fold so that you will be left with a full pattern piece once cut. However, we recommend cutting knit pieces flat rather than on the fold.

To do this, trace both sides of the pattern so that you have a full pattern piece, and then use this to cut your knit fabric.

If you want to cut the pieces on the fold, take particular care not to stretch the fabric. It may help to cut the fabric into smaller pieces to stop this from happening.

Take care when cutting notches

Instead of using scissors or a rotary cutter to cut notches, cut them with snips. Take care not to cut too deep, as the seam allowance on stretch patterns is often smaller than on wovens.

Alternatively, mark notches with chalk to avoid the possibility of creating a run in the knit fabric.

Learn more knit skills with us!

Knit fabric has become such a large part of our everyday life, and yet it’s a textile that many sewists find a bit overwhelming. That’s why we created the Sewing Knits Skills Kit. The first in a two-part knit fabric series, we’re using samplers to learn everything we need to know to sew stretch patterns on a regular sewing machine so we can put our new skills into practice with part two in the series, our T-shirt pattern.

There’s so much to learn that will make it much easier to sew with this tricky (but oh so comfy!) fabric. I hope you can join us!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pattern weights tutorial is part of Issue 17 of Curated by ITF and is only available for purchase by current members at this time.

  • The Sewing Knits Skills Kit is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of March 2023. More information can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

Q & A series
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ISSUE 143 - HOW TO SEW BIAS BINDING ON A V-NECK

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THE Q & A SERIES

How to sew bias binding on a V-neck

Hi Emily,

Great series on bias binding. I am just starting to master that. Next, I'd like to tackle a V-neck. Could you break down the steps for a V?

Thanks

Sam

Hi Sam,

Great question!

This month’s Curated by ITF pattern, the Stow dress, has a V-neck detail on the neckline. While designing the pattern, we took the time to experiment with a few different techniques to finish it because we wanted to make sure it gave a beautiful finish, and was an achievable approach.

The Stow dress has two Views. View A is a standard V-neck, while View B has a button placket at the front. We’ll show you how to finish a standard V-neck with binding in this tutorial, which is applicable to Stow dress View A.

BEFORE YOU START

We recommend using this technique to finish the neckline after sewing the shoulder seams of the garment. This will allow the garment to lay flat while adding the binding, making it easier to handle. You can then assemble the side seams afterwards.

NOTE: General In the Folds seam allowances have been included for your reference. If you have chosen different seam allowances (or are using another company's pattern), please be mindful of this.

PREPARE BIAS BINDING

Step 1

a Using a tape measure, measure around the neckline of the dress starting from the CENTRE FRONT V-neck on one side and continuing around the neckline until you reach the CENTRE FRONT again.

b  Cut a piece of bias binding about 6cm (2⅜in) longer than your neck measurement. If you are making your own binding, it needs to be 32mm (1¼in) wide. 

c  If you have made your own binding, place it right side down and press one long edge of the binding under by 1cm (⅜in). It will look like the middle image above. Commercial bias binding will look like the bottom image above.

Step 2

Fold the binding in half to find the midway point. Finger press the fold.

Unfold and pin the right side of the binding (at the midway point) to the right side of the garment at the CENTRE BACK of the neckline.

Step 3

a Pin the binding onto the neckline, carefully working your way to the shoulder seam.

Flip the dress to the front. Continue pinning the binding around the neckline until you reach the CENTRE FRONT. When you get to the V-neck point, stop pinning and mark the CENTRE FRONT line onto the binding with chalk or erasable pen and a ruler.

b Going back to the binding at the CENTRE BACK, continue pinning the rest of the binding to the neckline. Again, mark the CENTRE FRONT line on the other side of the binding with chalk or erasable pen and a ruler.

Step 4

a Remove the last couple of pins so that you can lift the binding on either side of the CENTRE FRONT. (These pins were only used so you could ensure the CENTRE FRONT line you marked was precise).

b Place the binding right sides together, matching the two lines marked. The outer long edge of the binding should still be folded up. Pin. Stitch along the marked line.

c Trim back the seam allowance close to the stitch line. Press the seam allowance open.

Step 5

Repin the binding to the neckline, lining up the seam in the binding with the CENTRE FRONT V-neck point of the dress. The binding should sit flat on the garment at this point.

Step 6

a Sew binding in place with a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance. Start at the CENTRE BACK or shoulder seam and work your way around to the CENTRE FRONT or opposite shoulder seam. Walk your stitches as you approach the CENTRE FRONT to ensure your needle lines up with the seam in the binding. Pivot to continue sewing around the neckline.

b Trim, clip and grade the seam allowance. Trim in nice and close to the point of the V at the front to minimise bulk as much as possible. Be careful not to cut through the stitching!

Step 7

Flip the binding to the right side and, using your finger to press the seam allowance towards the binding, understitch.

Start stitching about 1.2cm (½in) back from the points of the V on one side and then repeat on the other side.

Step 8

Turn the dress inside out and roll the binding to the inside. Press well and pin in place. Stitch in place close to the folded edge of the binding.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Stow dress pattern is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of February 2023. More information can be found here.

  • How to make your own bias binding - tutorial here.

  • Attaching single-fold bias binding - tutorial here.

  • Attaching double-fold bias binding - tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

Q & A series
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ISSUE 142 - THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PATTERN SIZING AND READY TO WEAR

THE Q & A SERIES

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PATTERN SIZING AND READY TO WEAR

Hi, 

I purchased the Flynn Jacket pattern. I need your sizes in international sizing (XS, S, M, L, XL). Your sizing does not help in cutting these sizes.

Thanks,

A

Hi there,

I am thrilled to hear you will be giving the Flynn jacket a go!

If you have never used one of our patterns, you may have been surprised to see the size charts and realise there is no sign of numbers (apart from the measurements themselves) or international sizing, as you noted. This was a very intentional choice that I made when starting In the Folds.

WHY HAND-MADE IS DIFFERENT TO READY TO WEAR

Sewing your own clothes is very different to buying ready-to-wear clothing.

When it comes to ready-to-wear you have to pick the closest size to your body measurements and hope for the best.

This might mean the garment fits you well through the bust, but pulls a little at the hips. Or that the hips fit well, but the neckline gapes. 

When it comes to sewing your own clothes you don’t have to settle for a garment that only fits certain parts of your body. Just one of the perks of making your own clothes! You can make a garment fit your unique body measurements by grading between pattern sizes. You can then alter the length to suit you, and make other alterations too, such as a full bust adjustment or a narrow shoulder adjustment).

WHY IN THE FOLDS SIZING DOESN’T USE NUMBERS

Here’s two reasons why we don’t use numbers in our garment sizing:

1. The focus should be on YOUR body, not a standard someone else has set.

By steering clear of international sizing and standard numbered sizing, we are encouraging sewists to do the most important thing you can do before starting a project… take accurate measurements of your body!

When it comes to sewing, using your measurements (rather than the numbers next to the measurements) is really important because it will help you make a garment that fits YOU.

It also means that you can acquaint yourself with the size chart for the particular pattern brand you are using, because they are all different.

2. We will not support systems that encourage body shaming.

By using letters instead of numbers in our size chart, we aim to remove the hesitance or shame some makers may feel when looking at traditional sizing numbers on tags in stores.

This is a side to ready-to-wear fashion that we want to leave behind! We believe making garments is about making clothes that fit your unique body, not about the size you wear. And this is one way we can help you (and the fashion world at large!) achieve this.

HOW TO FIGURE OUT YOUR IN THE FOLDS SIZE

We suggest you grab a tape measure, put on some tight clothing (leggings and a tight t-shirt or singlet work well), step in front of a mirror and take your measurements.

If you’ve printed a copy of the pattern, circle the size (or sizes) your measurements align with for each point of your body. In the case of the Flynn jacket, this is your bust, waist and hips.

ALWAYS CHECK THE FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

Before selecting a size it’s always a good idea to understand how closely the garment is supposed to fit and how much ease is in each area of the pattern.

With In the Folds patterns, we always include two measurement charts in our instruction booklets. One for body measurements (which are the same across all In the Folds patterns), and the other for finished measurements chart (which changes between patterns depending on the intended fit of the design).

The finished measurements chart includes the measurements of the finished garment in specific locations, and information about the amount of ease that has been included in the pattern.

UNDERSTANDING PATTERN EASE

How much ease there is in a pattern will determine if you need to make alterations to a pattern.

For example, if your hip measurement is in a larger size than your waist measurement, you might usually need to grade between sizes. But, if you look at the amount of ease in the hips of the Flynn pattern you may choose not to grade because there is a lot of ease provided in the design.

Selecting the correct size before you begin is an important part of the sewing process and we want to support you to feel confident when doing this. We have another post about selecting the correct pattern size that you might be interested to read here.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.

  • Selecting the correct size - tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 141 - HOW TO TRANSFER PATTERNS ONTO CARD

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THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO TRANSFER PATTERNS ONTO CARD

Hi Emily

Thank you so very much for doing this question and answer series.

I would like to know how to make our own patterns that will be used over and over again, and what kind of paper or other substance.

- Cerisse

Hi Cerisse,

Great question!

This month we’re diving into organising our spaces in our Curated by ITF sewing subscription. We’ve covered a range of topics, including storage options for supplies, fabrics and patterns and how we can best set up our spaces to make them easy to use and inviting.

If you’ve sewn with the more common commercial patterns you’ll know how flimsy and easy-to-break sewing pattern paper can be. It doesn’t take much to tear, and if they’re a much-loved pattern, the constant use will quickly lead to damage.

While In the Folds paper patterns are printed on a heavier paper than commercial patterns (and you have the option to choose your preferred paper weight when printing our digital patterns), how you store your patterns is still key to making them last as long as possible.

Transferring sewing patterns onto card is a great way to achieve this.

TRANSFERRING PATTERNS ONTO CARD

When working with patterns you use time and time again, like pattern blocks, it’s a great idea to transfer the pattern onto card. This way the pattern can act as a "master" pattern that you can refer to over and over.

There are two ways you can do this:

  1. Use weights and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern lines onto the card, and then use a pencil and ruler to join the dots.

  2. Glue the paper pattern onto the cardboard and cut it out.

BENEFITS OF TRACING YOUR PATTERN ONTO CARD

As mentioned above, tracing onto card will increase the longevity of your patterns because card is stronger than paper, but there’s other benefits that you should also consider.

When a pattern has been traced onto card it is very quick and easy to trace a new copy. Simply trace around the outside!

Also, if you do it after you’ve made all your alterations and fitting changes, it becomes very clear which pattern is the final version.

A PATTERN TRACING TIP

Depending on what you plan to use your pattern for, you may choose to remove the seam allowance before transferring the block onto card.

Traditionally, pattern blocks do not include seam allowances. This means you can quickly and easily trace a copy and make changes to the design without worrying about seam allowances getting in the way.

Think about what you plan to use your pattern or block for and then decide if having the seam allowance on your card will be helpful for your workflow.

If you’d prefer to use paper, you can find our article about which paper to use, and how to trace patterns here.

Happy sewing!

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • What is a pattern block? Tutorial can be found here.

  • How to trace patterns - Tutorial can be found here.

  • The Organise Your Space resource is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of January 2023. More information can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 140 - TIPS FOR CHOOSING A CUTTING TABLE

THE Q & A SERIES

TIPS FOR CHOOSING A CUTTING TABLE

Morning In the Folds,

I was wondering if you can help me decide on a cutting table.

I have just moved home and for the first time I'm lucky enough to have a space that I can dedicate to a sewing table.  I realise in the end it's each to their own and dependant upon the space available but as you must have used a variety of tables over the years I wondered if you could pass on what's great to have and things to avoid. 

I've been wondering, would you avoid a folding table, what height would you go for and what surface would you suggest? Also, what is the minimum size top you wouldn't go below (might that be based around the size of a bolt of fabric)?  I also figured it would be useful to have a table on casters and ideally be able to walk around it rather than it be up against a wall.

Anyway, knowing what others with more experience have found suitable will really help so thank you in advance if you get time to reply (I know you're always busy).

Kind regards,

Sharon, UK 

Hi Sharon,

How exciting that you have space for a cutting table!

This is actually a question I’ve had to consider myself recently. Last year I moved studio spaces and had more space available for a larger cutting table, so I’ve definitely got some thoughts on what to consider.

The focus of this month’s Curated by ITF project, Organise Your Space, also focuses on setting up your sewing space to make it easier to get stuck in and sew, so we’ve been thinking about this a lot!

When designing any space it’s always good to have a clear idea of how you intend to use the space you have, and then come up with a design based on that, so I’ve come up with some questions you might want to consider and answer for your yourself. I’ve included my own thoughts as well.

Will the cutting table be where you put your sewing machine?

Knowing the answer to this before you start out is important because it will impact the height of the table you want to have. It also determines whether or not you can use underneath the table for storage, or if you will need space to slide a stool or chair so you can sit at the table and sew.

You might not be able to answer this question until you’ve answered the question below, so consider these in tandem.

DO you PREFER TO STAND OR SIT when you sew?

With people now focusing on how much they’re moving each day, a lot of creatives are choosing to stand at their machine.

My workbench in my old studio was a comfortable height for standing, but when I used it as a sewing table I used a stool. It worked well, but I know this might not be comfortable for everyone. But, if you think about the time you actually spend sewing when you are making a garment (compared to cutting, pinning and ironing), you might find that you’re sat at your machine a lot less than you think!

Standing to sew might also mean you move between the different stages of garment construction more quickly and efficiently because you don’t have to stand up, move a chair out of the way, relocate to another area, etc.

how high should the cutting table be?

The height your cutting table will really depend on how tall you are.

Choose a height that is comfortable to stand at for long periods of time and doesn’t make you bend down too much. I think somewhere around the top of your hips is normally a good finished height to start with.

HOW WIDE SHOULD THE cutting TABLE BE?

When deciding on the table size you should also consider the patterns and fabric widths you tend to sew with, as it will be much easier to cut larger fabric pieces if you have the support of a table to match.

Off the bolt fabric can go up to 1.5m wide, so start there and work backwards.

If you don’t have the space to accomodate a table that big a 1.2m width would also work as only a small amount of fabric will be hanging off the edge if using larger widths, and most of the time you will be cutting on the fold.

how much sewing space do you have?

How much space you have for your sewing set-up will be a big factor in deciding on what furniture you can use.

If you have the space, I'd suggest having a dedicated cutting table. A large cutting table gives you space to do all the work that requires more room, such as pinning and set-up work, allowing you to have a separate smaller table just for sewing on your machines.

If possible I'd avoid a folding table. They can be great if you don't have the space, but they don't have the stability of a free standing table, which can be frustrating.

A table on casters is a great bonus to have. Being able to move the table out from a wall makes a big difference as you can access all sides which makes cutting a lot easier. It also means that you’re not completely dominating the space with a table and can move it around and out of the way when required. Keep in mind that castors will raise the height of a table.

WHAT TYPE OF SURFACE IS BEST?

I always try to consider longevity and sustainability when I’m setting up a new sewing space. For this reason I like to go with a timber that can take some wear and tear, but a piece can also be easily repaired or replaced later on if need be. A timber surface also means it can be lightly buffed when required.

To help protect your cutting table, large cutting mats are a great addition as they provide a smooth surface that won't catch or snag fabric. I’d highly recommend investing in a cutting mat (or however many you need to cover your table), particularly if you do lots of pattern alterations or use a rotary cutter as they will help prevent damage to the table top and make it last longer.

build or buy?

I love building a cutting table to fit my space because it means I can get the exact size, shape and height I need and want for my space.

There are some great resources online with directions for making one, like this one or this one (which has an interesting approach to the table top surface that I had never seen before!).

What's great about this style of table is that you have a lot of storage room underneath and can even put in a second shelf (depending on the height you go with and what you will be storing underneath).

It can also be handy to put some storage on the side - I have little hanging baskets on the side of mine where I can put a few tools etc. and then a rail where I can hang patternmaking tools.

If building a table is not possible, there are some great IKEA ideas / hacks around - like this one or this one.

I hope that's helpful and gives you some food for thought as you make plans for your new table!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Organise Your Space resource is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of January 2023. More information can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

Q & A series
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fabric-recommendations-jacob-dress-pattern.png
Q&A blog header-1.png
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ISSUE 139 - Checking and truing a self-drafted pattern

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THE Q & A SERIES

How to check a self-drafted pattern

Hi Emily,

I’ve been loving the recent pants fitting and designing content and it’s got me feeling confident to give drafting my own pair of pants a go! I have a design in mind and am about to get started on the pattern. I’m still quite nervous though about everything going a bit awry once I alter the pattern. 

Any tips or words of wisdom to give me some confidence would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Susan

Hi Susan,

I’m so pleased you have been enjoying our Pants series! This is a great question.

Firstly, with the release of our three month pants sewing project, (check them out here: Pants Sewing Skills, Pants Fitting Pattern and Fit Kit, and Pants Designing) our aim has been to ensure makers feel as confident as possible to make the pants they want to wear! This means really breaking down the process into manageable chunks so you can face one thing at a time.

We started out by concentrating on sewing skills that particularly relate to pants. Think fly fronts, welt pockets and slash pockets, among others! In the second month we focused on pants fitting with the release of our Pants Fitting pattern and Fit Kit. This month we’re bringing it all together with our Pants Designing Kit.

I understand that it can be daunting making your first pattern and to feel confident to cut into your precious fabric to sew it up. That’s why we thought sharing some tips of things to keep in mind when going from drafting your own pattern to sewing it up would be a good way to round-out the series.

3 STEPS TO FOLLOW AFTER YOU’VE DRAFTED OR ADJUSTED A PATTERN

Step 1 - Check and true the pattern.

I teach first year pattern making at a local university here in Sydney and one of the first things we teach is how to check and true a pattern.

What this means is that you need to “walk” your seams together as if they have been sewn to check they come together correctly. At first this seems like a bit of a chore, but once you realise how much time (and fabric) it can save you in the long run, it will become one of the most important skills in your tool belt!


We have two tutorials that show you how to check patterns - this tutorial focuses on straight seams, and this one is for curved seams.

Step 2 - Make a toile.

If you’ve only made small adjustments (such as altered the length or added a pocket) and have already made a toile then you may be able to skip this step.

For any larger alterations - such as raising or lowering the waist on a pair of pants or changing the shape of the pants considerably, we’d suggest making a toile to check you are happy with the changes you have made.

If you have only made changes to the upper section of the pants, you may consider making a shorts version as a toile to save on fabric.

If you’ve added panel lines, or made an alteration that doesn’t change the fit of the pant, but you’d like to see what the new design is going to look like, you might be fine just to make one pant leg, rather than a full toile.

When it comes to designing your own patterns, you no longer have the instruction booklet to guide you through every step. In this situation, making a toile gives you a chance to experiment with the best order of construction. We suggest taking notes and photos as you go so you have a record to refer to when you sew up your final pair.

Step 3 - Sew samplers.

For Issue 13 of Curated by ITF we practiced pants sewing techniques by sewing samplers.

What is a sampler?

A sampler is a piece of fabric, or small portion of a design, used to practice sewing techniques. They’re a great way to create a personal reference of techniques that can be referred to again in the future.

Due to their size, they are easy to store and refer to. Consider stapling them to the printed instructions for each technique and putting them in a binder. Alternatively, you can staple folded cardboard to the top of each sampler, punch a hole in one corner and hang on a ring in your sewing space. Consider transferring the pattern pieces to card so they are durable and able to be used again and again.

Sewing a sampler is a great way to learn a new technique or build confidence before sewing a garment. Trying out skills on samplers is far less intimidating than sewing on an actual garment and allows you to slow down, relax and enjoy the process of learning something new. Like any new skill or hobby, getting good at it will take time. By sewing just a small part of a design, you can gain confidence and have something to refer to when you make your pants.

I hope this gives you the confidence to go from drafting a pattern to sewing a garment!

A QUICK REMINDER…

This will be our last Q&A email for 2022 as our little team takes a pause for some much needed rest and relaxation and I start maternity leave. New Q&As will be back in your inbox in the new year, but if you’re worried you’re going to miss learning with us too much, remember that our whole Q&A archive is on our website. So why not take a deep dive into learning something new these holidays?

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • How to check and true patterns - tutorials for straight seams and curved seams.

  • How to and why make a toile - tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 138 - HOW TO LOWER THE WAIST ON A PANTS PATTERN

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THE Q & A SERIES

How to lower the waist on a pants pattern

Hi, 

I love the wide leg Pants pattern but prefer to wear all trousers much lower down, like on my hips, a low rise is it?! 

How can I modify the pattern to sit on my hips? - just below my belly button! ;) 

Really hoping you can help me as I really want to make these!! 

Thanks you so much, 

Janie :)

Hi Janie,

For the last three months of Curated by ITF we have been working on all things pants - sewing, fitting and designing. This includes adapting patterns so they suit your preferences, like lowering the waist.

ALWAYS START WITH A TOILE

If you want to lower where a pair of pants sit on the body, you can use a toile to work out how much to lower the waist by.

We strongly suggest making a toile to check the fit of the original pattern before going ahead and making large-scale pattern alterations. Once you're happy with the fit, you can draw on the toile where you'd like the new waistline and waistband to sit. You may like to refer to a pair of pants in your wardrobe to get an idea of the exact fit.

For your toile, if you’re using the Peppermint Wide Leg pants pattern (or a similar pattern that has pockets), we’d suggest converting the pattern into a block before you get started. This way you don’t have to worry about the pockets. Once you are happy with the fit and have lowered the waist, then you can add the pockets back in. We’ve got a tutorial showing you how to add pockets to a pants pattern in this month’s issue of Curated, but if you’re not a subscriber you can see this tutorial we created about adding pockets to a skirt pattern.

A STEP-BY-STEP TUTORIAL TO LOWER THE WAIST ON PANTS

Step 1

Using your toile as a reference, draw the desired waistline onto the pattern at the point where the pants meet the waistband (not at the top of the waistband). Let's call this line A.

Step 2

Repeat for the back pattern. Let's call this line B. For the example we chose to lower the waist to a point below the dart, eliminating the need for a dart.

Step 3
Line up the side seam STITCH LINES of the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] as if they have been sewn together (one on top of the other).

Check that the new waistline flows smoothly between the front and back. Adjust if necessary.

Step 4
You will need to create a new waistband for the altered pattern. Draw lines parallel to lines A and B, at the desired height of the new waistband. We recommend a 3-4cm (1¼-1½in) waistband.

STEP 5

a Trace the front waistband shape. Add a grainline to the pattern parallel to the CENTRE FRONT.

b Trace another copy on the reverse side (with the waistband flipped). The reason we trace both sides is because the left and right waistband are not identical (we will add a fly front extension to the left waistband only).

c For the left waistband, add an extension for the FLY SHIELD. The extension needs to be the width of the FLY SHIELD (in this case 4.5cm (1¾in)) and the edge needs to be parallel to the CENTRE FRONT.

Step 6

Add 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance to the top and bottom edges of the waistband pieces. Add 1.2cm (½in) seam allowance to the CENTRE FRONT and side seam.

You can change the amount of seam allowance to your preferred width, but remember that the lower edge of the waistband should have the same amount as the top of the pants.

Make sure your patterns are labelled "CUT 1 PAIR + BLOCK FUSE" for both the right and left front Waistband.

Step 7
Trace the back waistband piece in the same way.

Trace the dart and we will show you how to remove it in the following steps.

Add a grainline to the pattern parallel to the CENTRE BACK.

Step 8

a Cut down one of the dart legs.

b Close the dart by moving the cut dart arm so that it meets the uncut dart arm. Tape / glue pattern in place.

Step 9
Fold a piece of pattern paper and line up the CENTRE BACK of the new BACK WAISTBAND with the fold.

Trace a copy of the piece, smoothing out the top and bottom edge where the dart was removed. Label the piece "CUT 1 PAIR + BLOCK FUSE".

Add seam allowance in the same way that you did on the front waistband pieces. Mark a notch at the CENTRE BACK on the top and bottom edge.

Step 10

Take the pants pattern and add 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to lines A and B. You can choose whether to trace a copy to keep as a draft or cut off the excess.

Alter the fly pieces by lining up the piece on the pattern and shortening to reflect the new rise height. You will also need a shorter zip to fit the new lowered waist.

Happy drafting,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • The Wide Leg Pants pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

  • How to convert a pants pattern into a block - read the tutorial here.

  • How to draft side pockets - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

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ISSUE 137 - ADDING PLEATS TO PANTS

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THE Q & A SERIES

How to add pleats to pants

Hello,

I recently tried adding pleats to your Peppermint Wide Leg pants pattern and although I am happy with my results I think that I should have also added a little more width to the back panels. Is there a particular method that you would recommend for this type of pant pattern alteration?

Thank you.

Sincerely, 

Jess

Hi Jess,

Learning how to hack patterns we already have is a wonderful skill to be able to add to your sewing toolbelt, and it’s something we focus on in our sewing subscription, Curated by ITF. This month we’ve been showing our members how to design pants using the pants block we made previously.

Apart from making sewing more economical, knowing how to hack patterns means that we can make clothes that we want to wear, regardless of what fashion trends are in at the moment. It also means our clothes will be unique and we’re not going to walk around a corner and see someone wearing the exact same outfit!

What are pleats?

Pleats are made when fabric is folded over on itself. They are a fantastic way to add volume and shaping to a garment - in this case a pair of pants - without the need for darts.

Pleats in pants

There are a range of different pleats you can use when wanting to add fullness to pants. Forward pleats, reverse pleats, double pleats…

A single pleat on each side of the front waist is the most common approach in pants.

If you want to increase the volume at the back of pants, you can add a pleat there as well, but it is important to consider how much volume you want in the pants overall.

My suggestion is to add pleats in the front, and then use the cut and spread technique to add the extra volume you’d like in the back.

WHAT TO keep in mind when adding pleats to pants

Depending on the pattern you’re hacking, adding more fabric into a design may impact areas of the pattern differently. Here’s two things you should keep in mind when adding pleats to pants:

  • If it is too close to the CENTRE FRONT this could add excess volume in the crotch area.

  • If it is too close to the side seam, there may not be room for the volume of the pleat when it is folded in place and could add too much bulk if you choose to include a pocket.

DETERMINING PLEAT WIDTH & DIRECTION

You will need to have a think about the size of the pleat you want to add to your pattern. This is totally up to you, and depends on the look you are wanting to achieve.

If you are struggling to work out the width you would like your pleat to be, have a play around with some fabric (or even a piece of paper). Fold different sized pleats into the fabric to get an idea of how it will look and how much fabric it will use.

Keep in mind where you intend the pleat to be placed in the garment and how much room there is. This will help you determine the best size for the pleat.

It’s up to you which direction you'd like to fold your pleat - it's just a design decision. If you're unsure, have a look at your pleat sample! We like to fold ours towards the side seam as this avoids excess volume flaring into the crotch area.

How to add volume to pants using pleats

In this example, we only want to add volume in the upper section of the pattern, so we will separate the pattern at the knee.

This allows us to add volume for the pleat, yet keep the hem width the same. You can skip this and add volume through the whole piece, if you prefer.

In the case of our Pants block, the knee line should be around the same area as the LENGTHEN/SHORTEN LINES. Hold the pattern up to your body to check.

Take care to draw the slash line perpendicular to the grainline.

Step 1

Consider where you would like to add a pleat/s. We recommend it be in the middle of waistline so you don’t add too much volume to the crotch or bulk to the pocket area. For this example we will create one pleat, but you can add multiple if you like.

Draw a slash line through the pattern where you plan to place your pleat (or pleats).

Step 2

Slide a large piece of pattern paper under your pattern.

Cut along the line from the waist, stopping 1-2mm from the knee line. This should create a hinge in the paper.

Make sure you check that there is room for a pleat this width in relation to the CENTRE FRONT / BACK and side seams (depending on where you have placed your pleat/s).

Step 3

Using the hinge, open the pattern by the amount you'd like to add for the pleat, measuring at the waist STITCH LINE. Remember that the amount needs to be double the width of your finished pleat.

Tape / glue pattern in place.

Step 4

Fold the pleat in the direction you'd like it to be sewn. Press down at the waist area to form creases.

Step 5

When you fold a pleat on a curved edge, you need to adjust the edge of the pleat so that it sits flush with the waistline.

Using a tracing wheel, transfer the waist shaping onto the pleat edge at the waist STITCH LINE. Add seam allowance to the pleat.

Step 6

Add FOLD LINES either side of the pleat. Add notches where the FOLD LINES meet the CUT LINE at the waist.

Mark an arrow to indicate which direction the pleat needs to be folded.

Step 7

Take the lower section of the pattern which you cut off before you started. Place it back on the top pattern by lining up the side seams at the STITCH LINE.

You will have an excess triangle on your pattern where the two meet - don't worry about this! The inseam and side seam are still the same length and the excess will blend into the pleat once folded.

If you've opened up your pattern a large amount, you can smooth the inseam and side seam at the knee area if necessary.

Step 8

Redraw the grainline in the centre of the pleat.

Step 9

Measuring down from the waistline on the FOLD LINES of the pleat, mark drill holes the distance down you would like to stitch your pleat.

In industry, these markings would normally be offset from the fold line by 5mm (¼in) so that the holes would be hidden inside the pleat. In the home sewing world we don't mark drill holes with actual holes in the fabric (we use chalk or a tailor's tack) so we are fine to have these markings on the FOLD LINE.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • The Wide Leg Pants pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

  • Adding volume to a pattern - tutorial for the cut and spread technique can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 136 - HOW TO CONVERT A PANTS PATTERN INTO A BLOCK

THE Q & A SERIES

How to convert a pants pattern into a block

Hi Emily,

I’ve made the Peppermint Wide Leg pants pattern before and decided to use that pattern to work on fit for last month’s issue of Curated. I’m excited to be working on pants designing this month with you and the community, but I’m wondering if there is anything I need to do to the pattern before I get started?

Thanks,

Rachel

Hi Rachel,

This is a great question!

With our Pants Fitting Issue of Curated by ITF, many of our ‘Foldies’ (what we like to call our Curated by ITF community members) decided to use the Wide Leg Pants pattern as they already had it in their stash.

But if you’re going to use the Wide Leg Pants pattern to design other pants, you should convert it into a pattern block before you start. If you’re not sure what a pattern block is, read this post.

The Wide Leg Pants pattern is a sewing pattern for a finished pair of pants, and the design includes elements that a pants block may not, such as pockets. To convert it into a pattern block we need to remove these elements.

Fitting a pattern without pockets is much easier because you remove the need to alter several pieces when making fitting adjustments.

A pocket opening can also change the way pants fit. For example, it might make you feel like you have more room than you do, so we recommend getting the pants to fit right first and then add the pocket in later.

HOW TO REMOVE POCKETS FROM A PANTS PATTERN TO CREATE A PATTERN BLOCK

Step 1

Place the POCKET FACING [3] piece onto the FRONT LEG [1], lining up the waist seam, pocket opening and side seam. You can tape or pin in place. I like to use masking tape or magic tape as it's easy to peel off and won't damage the pattern.

Step 2

Place the POCKET BAG [4] onto the POCKET FACING [3], lining up the side seam, crotch seam, waist seam and bottom edge of the pocket. Tape or pin in place.

Step 3

Trace a copy of the pattern onto a piece of pattern paper. To trace a pattern you can either use transparent paper and place it on top of the pieces you are tracing, or use opaque paper under your pattern and use a tracing wheel to trace the lines.

When tracing a pattern, be sure to transfer the STITCH LINE and the CUT LINE, as well as the grainline, notches and any other pattern markings (in this case that means the drill hole on the front crotch).

If you like, you can transfer the pattern onto card for safe-keeping.

Update the pattern markings to reflect the new piece. In the example I have updated the pattern piece name to Wide Leg Pants block.

In the case of the Peppermint Wide Leg Pants pattern, there's nothing else we need to do. The back piece has limited details - just darts - so you can use the back piece as it is with the updated front piece.

Happy drafting,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • The Wide Leg Pants pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

  • What is a pattern block? - post can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 135 - HOW TO AVOID HUNGRY BUM IN PANTS

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THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO AVOID HUNGRY BUM IN PANTS

Hi Emily,

How can I avoid the “hungry bum” on trousers ?

Sandie

Hi Sandie,

Thanks for asking this question. It’s something that nobody likes to think happens to them, but I’m sure we’ve all fallen foul of it at some point in our lives!

WHAT IS HUNGRY BUM WHEN REFERRING TO PANTS?

For those who’ve never heard the term ‘hungry bum’ you might be more familiar with the term ‘wedgie’. Basically, both terms refer to when your pants creep up in between the thighs and buttocks, and stay there.

SIGNS OF HUNGRY BUM

When we think of ‘hungry bum’ we immediately conjure up worst case scenario images in our head. In reality, the affect of a ‘hungry bum’ can be measured on a scale. For a bit of laugh, let’s say the scale goes from the lower end of ‘feeling peckish’ to ‘absolutely famished’ at the higher end ;)

In all seriousness, if you’ve noticed that you’ve got fabric pulling towards the front or back crotch of your pants, or the fabric is bunching up between your legs, then you’ve probably got a ‘hungry bum’. The fabric around the thighs may also feel tight.

But what causes it, specifically?

the causes of hungry bum

Although it is difficult to say what is causing the ‘hungry bum’ without seeing photos of a toile being worn, it’s commonly a result of a garment not fitting the wearer’s thighs properly. If this is the case, the alteration that needs to be made is a Full Thigh Adjustment. This is just one of the pants fitting adjustments we cover in our Pants Fitting issue of Curated by ITF.

when to do a full thigh adjustment

You’ll know you need to make this adjustment if your toile is too tight in the thigh area or you struggle to pull your toile up beyond your thighs. You may also notice that your range of movement is limited in the thigh area. If you cannot pull your toile up over your thighs you definitely need to include a Full Thigh Adjustment in your pants fitting process.

If a Full Thigh Adjustment is common for you, we suggest measuring the thigh on the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] pieces and comparing that to your body measurements before making a toile.

Keep in mind that you require ease in the thigh of the pattern so that you can comfortably sit and stand.

PREPARATIONS FOR A FULL THIGH ADJUSTMENT

Unpick the inner leg seams of your toile from the crotch to a point approximately 25-30cm (10-12in) down the seam. Open up the seam and pin a strip of fabric in the opening at the width you think you need to add.

Try on the toile. Add or remove width in the opening depending on the result.

Continue the process until you are happy with the amount of width added to the toile.

HOW TO DO A FULL THIGH ADJUSTMENT ON PANTS

Step 1

On the FRONT [1], extend the inner leg seam from a point midway between the notches up through the crotch seam. The line needs to be parallel to the grainline. We will call this line A.

At the bottom of line A, draw a perpendicular line through the seam allowance to the CUT LINE.

Step 2

Cut down line A from the crotch seam. Stop 1-2mm from the end of the line at the STITCH LINE. Cut into the seam allowance towards the end of the line, creating a small hinge of paper at the end of line A.

Step 3

Refer to your toile to work out how much width needs to be added to the thigh of the pattern. We will add half the amount to the FRONT [1] and the other half to the BACK [1].

Slide a piece of pattern paper under the cut section. Swing out the inner leg seam. Mark a point out from the STITCH LINE of the crotch at the width you would like to add. We will call this point B.

Step 4

Swing the inner leg section so that the STITCH LINE meets point B. Tape in place. Redraw crotch seam STITCH LINE and CUT LINE, joining the two sections with a smooth curve that merges into the original crotch seam.

Step 5

Straighten out the top section of the inner leg seam. This will help you retain the nice smooth scoop of the crotch seam when this seam is sewn. Smooth out the inner leg seam where the alteration was made, if required.

Step 6

Repeat STEPS 1 - 5 for the BACK [2]. Add the same amount to the BACK [2] as you did to the FRONT [1].

If you notice on your toile that the fabric is only pulling at the front or back then you can choose to make this adjustment to only one section.

Step 7

Check that the crotch seam is a nice smooth curve by lining up the STITCH LINES of the inner leg seams. For more details on checking curved seams, see this tutorial.

There’s a lot to consider when you’re sewing pants and if you’re just starting out on your pants sewing journey we highly recommend our Pants Sewing series, which is part of our Curated by ITF subscription.

Across three Issues we cover everything you need to know to be able to sew, fit and design yourself a pair of pants you love to wear! As well as the resources we provide in each Issue, you also have access to our online sewing community, where you can ask all your sewing questions and get the support you need to help you on your way!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • Checking patterns: curved seams - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 134 - HOW TO ALTER THE CROTCH LENGTH ON PANTS

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO ALTER THE CROTCH LENGTH ON PANTS

My biggest challenge is how to alter to crotch/rise in pants.  I need to lengthen the crotch in back without adding width and shorten rise in front.  I'm a size 6 US / 10 British so the issue for me is not adding more room.  It's all about the fit!

Thank you and so grateful for this series. 

Best regards,

Mary

Bend, USA

Hi Mary,

What’s great about your question is that you already know what changes you need to make to a pants pattern to achieve a great fit. Often diagnosing the issue is the trickiest part of the pants fitting process. Once you know what you need to do, it’s just a matter of working through the alterations methodically. 

You can definitely alter the crotch length in different ways on the front and the back of pants.

As the alteration is made only to the crotch curve (and not the side seam), it’s fine to remove crotch length from the front and then add crotch length to the back.

WHEN TO ADJUST CROTCH LENGTH

The best way to work out if you need to add or remove length from the front or back crotch seam is to make a toile and assess the fit in front of a full length mirror while it’s being worn.

If the front or back crotch feels like it is sitting lower than it should be, or soft horizontal folds are forming (Image 1) on either the front or the back but not at the side seams, then the crotch length is likely too long for you. 

If the front or back crotch feels like it's pulling towards you, but the side seams fit well, you may need to add length to the crotch. You may also notice drag lines radiating upwards from your crotch (Image 2).

HOW TO LENGTHEN CROTCH LENGTH

The steps are the same for the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] pattern pieces. You may need to alter one or both.

Step 1

Mark a line through the pattern piece perpendicular to the grainline in the section above the crotch curve. We don't want to change the curve, just the length of the CENTRE FRONT / CENTRE BACK seam. 

We will refer to this as line A. If your cut line goes through notches (such as for fly placement), keep a note of their original locations so you can redraw them later.

Step 2

Cut along line A from the CENTRE FRONT.

Slow down as you approach the STITCH LINE on the side seam and stop when you are 1-2mm from the STITCH LINE. Cut in from the side seam on line A towards the point where you stopped cutting. Stop cutting when you are 1-2mm from the STITCH LINE to create a hinge.

Step 3

Determine how much you would like to add to the crotch length.

The best way to find this is by making a toile and cutting into the fabric across the crotch. You can pin some fabric into the opening and reassess the fit.

Take a piece of pattern paper slightly larger than the amount you would like to add and mark a horizontal line. We will refer to this as line B. Mark a line below line B, parallel to line B and equal to the distance you will be adding. We will refer to this as line C.

Step 4

Slide the paper under the pattern. Line up line A (pants section) with line C and tape in place. 

Carefully rotate the top section of the pattern until the CENTRE FRONT STITCH LINE hits line B. Tape or glue in place.

Step 5

Re-draw the side seam and CENTRE FRONT seam with nice smooth curves.

Redraw the grainline following the grainline on the leg of the pants. Cut off excess paper.

HOW TO SHORTEN CROTCH LENGTH

To shorten the crotch length, the steps are the same for the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] pattern pieces. You may need to alter one or both.

Repeat STEPS 1 and 2 above.

Step 3

Consider how much you would like to remove from the crotch. The best way to find this is by making a toile and assessing the amount by pinning out a wedge from the crotch and checking the fit.

Once you know the amount, measure up from line A on the CENTRE FRONT STITCH LINE and mark a point equal to the amount you would like to remove. We will refer to this as point B.

Step 4

Carefully rotate the top section of the pattern so that point B meets with line A.

Tape or glue in place.

Step 5

Re-draw the side seam and CENTRE FRONT seam (CUT and STITCH LINES) with nice smooth curves. Redraw the grainline following the grainline on the leg of the pants.

This month for our Curated by ITF project we are working with our community to make toiles, conduct fittings and determine what alterations to make.

Our latest issue, the Pants Fitting pattern and Fit Kit, guides you through the whole process and then we’re right there in our online sewing community to answer all your questions, assess your toile photos and guide you through the process. If you’re interested to learn more about the pants sewing, fitting and design process, sign up to Curated by ITF now!

Happy fitting,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit is the second part in our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 133 - YOUR PANTS FITTING PROJECT QUESTIONS ANSWERED

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THE Q & A SERIES

YOUR PANTS FITTING PROJECT QUESTIONS ANSWERED

We’ve had lots of new members join our Curated by ITF community this month who are looking to build their skills in the area of sewing, drafting and fitting pants, and we’re excited to be able to help them learn this valuable garment sewing skill.

We know that, for many people, sewing pants is a no-go zone. Many makers learn the hard way that you’re unlikely to get a pair of well-fitted pants by ‘winging it’. Because pants incorporate the waist, hips, crotch curve and thighs, pants require you to have a good grasp of the fundamentals of the fitting process (or be willing to give it a red hot go!).

Understanding the why, what, where, and when of fitting pants means that when you hit a roadblock you know what adjustment to use to rectify it. It also means you have a process to follow that allows you to troubleshoot the issue, trying different approaches separately, or knowing when to use a combination of adjustments.

We’ve had a few questions come in lately relating to this month’s Pants Fitting Pattern, so this week is a little different to our usual Q&A post. We’re sharing our answers to these questions all at once in the hope that it might also answer any questions you have also had, and get you on the journey to designing, fitting and sewing pants that you love!

Just wondering if this pant pattern is the same as the Wide leg pants, but without the front pocket. I have the Wide leg pants printed out and removed the front pocket to make fitting easier for the first pair. I thought I would save some paper if they are the same draft.

Tracy

Hi Tracy,

The pattern for Issue 14 of Curated is different to the Wide Leg pants pattern, but it is quite similar. The legs are narrower on the new pattern and the back dart is shorter. We also chose not to include pockets in the Pants Fitting pattern, which makes it quicker and easier to toile and make alterations. This also makes it easier to be used as a base pattern that can be used in the future to draft other patterns from (that’s what’s coming for Issue 15 of Curated!)

In saying that though, I think you'd be fine to use the Wide Leg pants pattern you have already printed and started on, as it is very similar and all the resources in the Fit Kit will apply to that pattern. We’re also happy to show you how to remove the pocket, if you’d like to make it more like a block pattern.

You can always make the leg narrower, as we have included a tutorial in the Fit Kit for how to do that.

Happy sewing (and fitting),

Emily

Hello,

I have an existing pant block, but it is from before kids and so my body has changed - mainly bigger and maybe more tummy.

I wonder if I can use this block for my toile and do the fit alterations to it rather than use the pant pattern supplied?

Thanks,
Denise

Hi Denise,

Good question!

We have made the resources so that the techniques apply to other pants patterns and blocks, so you could definitely give it a go.

One thing to note is that when fitting a garment it is much easier to remove fabric, rather than add it in, so I'd be checking that you can make a toile that fits you well enough from the block to conduct a fitting.

If you mainly need more room across the tummy, then you could definitely do a full tummy adjustment to add more room in the tummy area. You could also add a larger seam allowance to the pattern (particularly in the side seams) so that you have more room to play with during the fitting.

It might be worth a go as an experiment. You can see after a fitting how much work is involved in adjusting the block and then decide if you're better off sticking with the block or using our pants fitting pattern.

Happy sewing,

Emily

Hello,

I am interested in joining your community, mainly to learn about pants fitting.

Via Peppermint I got access to you Wide Leg Pants pattern. I really love the style and made already two Wide Leg pants. However, I have the feeling that the fit has room for improvement.

Recently, I bought 3 fabrics for making autumn/winter pants based on this pattern. Would the Pants fitting project of this month work along with the Wide Leg pants pattern or is it compulsory to use the pants pattern that comes with the fitting project?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Kind regards,
Monika

Hi Monika,

You can definitely work along with the fitting content we released this month using the Wide Leg Pants pattern.

The fitting pattern is quite similar to the Wide Leg pants pattern. The main differences are how much width is in the leg and that the fitting pattern doesn't have any pockets (which makes the fitting process easier).

All the resources in the Fit Kit and community group will definitely be helpful to you on your pants fitting journey. Some of our makers (who we like to call ‘Foldies’) are also working on the Wide Leg pants pattern, so you won’t be alone! We created the content to be relevant to a range of different pants patterns so that the resources can be used for different projects.

You will be fine to jump on board and follow the process with this pattern.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit is the second part in our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • The Wide Leg pants pattern can be found here.

  • How to add seam allowance to a pattern - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 132 - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO SEW PANTS THAT FIT

THE Q & A SERIES

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO
SEW PANTS THAT FIT

How do you make a pants pattern fit?  

Thanks,

Nancy
Hampton Georgia, United States

Hi Nancy,

That’s a great question. How to sew pants that fit is a question we have answered in great detail in this month’s Curated by ITF project, the Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit!

We all know that fitting pants can be a little overwhelming. Just like our mantra here at In the Folds,  what we suggest you do is slow down, take the pressure off and take it one step at a time. Keep reading to see what we believe you need to know to sew pants that fit, plus we share a Pants Fitting Checklist that you can use whenever you’re working through the fitting process.

BE WARY OF OVER-FITTING

Before getting started with fitting a pair of pants we suggest you get a clear goal in mind.

It is important to remember that the goal is not to make pants that have no creases. This is called “over-fitting” and indicates that the pants have no ease in them. As you can imagine, this would make them very uncomfortable to wear and to move around in! The goal is to make pants that are comfortable to wear and that you like the look of.

It can be easy to get caught up in fitting a garment perfectly - especially as you're standing in a static pose, in front of a mirror, wearing calico.

Try to remember that as you move and use the real fabrics, the creases that seem to stand out while standing still most likely won't show up as much as they do in calico. 

TAKE ACCURATE MEASUREMENTS

It’s a very good idea to take accurate body measurements with a tape measure before getting started. To do this, we recommend putting on some tight clothes, like leggings or just your underwear.

Take your waist and hip measurements first. Be sure to measure at the fullest part of your hips. Do this in front of a full length mirror and check from the side that the tape measure is not dipping up or down. It’s also a good idea to take your waist and hip measurements while sitting down, to ensure you will have enough ease while sitting.

If your measurements are between sizes, use the finished garment measurements from the pattern to help you decide if you should select the smaller or larger size. This measurement shows the amount of ease in the pattern. If a pattern is somewhat fitted, we recommend selecting the larger size for your toile, as it is easier to remove fabric from the toile than add fabric in.

ALWAYS MAKE A TOILE

We all know what it’s like... You purchase (or draft) a new pattern and you just want to get into it and make it so you can wear it!

While this approach may work for some garments, when it comes to sewing pants, we strongly recommend you make a toile first. A toile is a test version of a garment, made from a similar, but often cheaper, fabric. You can read more about making a toile here. By making a toile you can check the fit of the garment, and make any adjustments before cutting into your 'real' fabric.

Consider increasing the stitch length on your machine. This makes sewing your toile faster, but also means it's a lot easier to open up seams if you want to make an adjustment during the fitting process. We suggest that you trace a copy of the pattern before making any adjustments. This way you always have a copy of the original pattern to refer to.

FITTING YOUR TOILE

Once you have selected your size and made your toile, you can do a fitting to check if you need to make any alterations.

This is a good time to mention that most of us will require some alterations. This is not to deter you, but to let you know that it’s completely normal to need to make alterations!

Patterns are designed to a standard shape, but most of us are not the standard. By reminding yourself of this you can see pattern alterations as another skill to add to your repertoire and see it as just another part of the sewing process instead of a chore.

When fitting your toile, try to be methodical. It can be easy to be overwhelmed by the process, but just remind yourself that one effective alteration can make a world of difference and will often resolve multiple issues.

Because of this, it’s also good to remember not to make too many changes once. Just make one alteration to your toile and then re-fit before doing anything else you think you need.

PANTS FITTING CHECKLIST

Our current issue of Curated by ITF includes an extensive Pants Fitting Checklist. We thought we’d share a few of the main things with you so you know where to get started:

  1. Check that your CENTRE FRONT and CENTRE BACK seam lines are sitting in the right place. They should be in the centre of your body on the front and back.

  2. Check that the pants are sitting on your waist (or where they are supposed to be sitting).

  3. Check where the crotch of the pants is sitting on your body. Where this sits will depend on the pattern and how it has been designed.

  4. Check that the opening is a comfortable length and you can get in and out of the pants easily. For example, with our pants fitting pattern it has a front opening for a zip fly front.

  5. Check for drag lines on your toile. Drag lines are lines in the fabric that form when fabric is being pulled across a part of the body. It may indicate that there is not enough length or width in a certain part of the garment. Sometimes it can be easier to spot drag lines by taking a photo of your toile. Ask a friend or family member to take the photos or use a tripod or balance your phone on something and use a self-timer to take photos of yourself. Be sure to take photos from all angles. 

  6. Check that you have enough room in the thigh area of the pant legs. It’s a good idea to check while sitting too.

  7. Check that you have enough room in the tummy area. If the waist and hips fit well, but you’re experiencing pulling across the front, you may need some extra room in that area. 

  8. Check that your side seams appear straight and are perpendicular to the floor. If your side seam is pulling towards the front or the back, this normally means that you need more width in the area where it's pulling.

  9. Check the hem length. Have a play with the length until you get a pant length that feels comfortable for you.

  10. Check that you can move and sit comfortably in the pants. Move around. If a seam feels tight, let out the seam with your seam ripper and re-pin the seam with a smaller seam allowance to see if this helps.

We hope this helps you get started on your pants fitting journey. If you feel like you still need a bit of extra support and encouragement, be sure to sign-up to Curated by ITF this month and work alongside our community!

Happy fitting,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit is the second part in our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • How to (and why) make a toile - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 131 - MAKING PANTS USING A PATTERN BLOCK

THE Q & A SERIES

Learning patternmaking using pattern blocks

I would love to make my own patterns but I get so confused. Do you have a basic pants block that is easy to follow?

Lucille
Chatsworth, South Africa

Hi Lucille,

Making your own patterns can be a little bit confusing when you’re getting started, but you’ve got the right idea - using a block helps a lot!

WHAT IS A PATTERN BLOCK

A pattern block is a foundation pattern that patternmakers use as a base or foundation when drafting patterns.

In the US, a block is referred to as a ‘sloper’ so you may see these terms used interchangeably in books and blocks, depending on where the author is from. We have a whole article about pattern blocks and how you use them that you can read here.

THE IN THE FOLDS PANTS BLOCK

Over the years we have had A LOT of requests for a pants block, so we are excited to say that we’ve just released one as part of our Pants Making Project Series.

This project has been in the works for a very long time. We really wanted to create a pattern that would assist makers to make a pair of pants that fit well, but also one that gave them a base to springboard off when drafting new designs. 

The problem with pattern blocks is that they are often drafted to be quite fitted, with minimal ease. Although this can be great as an exercise in fitting, makers often find it difficult to then know what to do with the block and how to use it to make the style of clothes they want to wear.

For this reason we designed our Pants Fitting pattern with a comfortable amount of ease in the waist, hip and through the leg. Once you’ve mastered the fit (with the Fit Kit that we released along with the pattern) you will have a solid starting point to design from, without having to think about adding ease… unless of course you want a pant with more volume, and we will show you how to do that too!

Although the shape of our pants pattern isn’t a conventional pant block shape (for the reasons mentioned above), we made sure we stuck with all the other things that make a block handy to use.

The pant has minimal design details - just a back dart for shaping and a shaped waistband. We left out the pockets so that you can quickly and easily do a fitting and then draft the style of pockets you like. We included the fly pieces in case you want them in the future, but when making toiles we suggest you skip the fly so that you can quickly and easily make adjustments.

WHAT DO YOU USE A PATTERN BLOCK FOR?

Once you have altered the pattern to fit your body, you will then be able to use it as a block. It’s a good idea to transfer your pattern onto cardboard for safe-keeping. This will keep it nice and strong and mean you can use it over and over. It also makes it quick and easy to trace a copy onto paper when you’re ready to use it.

 There are two main things you would use a block for as a home sewist:

  1. To check what adjustments you need to make on new patterns. For example, you might be really happy with the crotch shape on your block. When you use another pants pattern you can lay the block onto the crotch to see if you need to make alterations to the other pattern.

  2. To design your own patterns. This is the thing we are really excited about! Once you have a base pattern, there are countless things you can do. Add volume, remove volume, change the leg shape, lower the waist, raise the waist, add panel lines, change the closure type, add any pocket shape you can think of… just to name a few! The options really are endless.

    For this month’s issue of Curated by ITF we’re working on pants fitting with the new pants pattern so that next month we can get you patternmaking, because it’s always a good idea to ensure the base pattern fits you well before making design adjustments.

Happy sewing!

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing project series is available as part of our Curated by ITF subscription. More information can be found here.

  • What is a pattern block? - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 130 - How to shorten the Hove jacket

THE Q & A SERIES

How to shorten the Hove jacket

Hi Emily 

I am really enjoying improving my skills each month with Curated and I’m about to start the Hove Jacket (View A).

I am short and I would like to shorten the overall jacket length . This pattern has a couple of beautiful curves in its feature panels that are intersected by the shorten/lengthen lines - could you please provide some tips on grading a curve when shortening 80-100mm.

Jen
Adelaide

Hi Jen,

Great to hear you are enjoying Curated by ITF and would like to give the Hove jacket a go!

Here at In the Folds we love a curved seam. They make fun and interesting shapes to wear and sew. Some of our favourite curved seams can be found in the Hove jacket, Flynn jacket and the Darlow pants.

You’re right though, when it comes to shortening or lengthening a pattern with curves, it does change the process a little bit, in comparison to altering straight seams. 

The Hove jacket and the Flynn jacket are actually sibling patterns and share the same curves. We have a tutorial here that shows you how to shorten the Flynn, which you can use on the Hove jacket as well.

CHECK AND TRUING A PATTERN

Once you have made the adjustment to the length, the most important part of the process is to check that your seams fit together. This is called “checking and truing” a pattern.

This means that you walk the seams together as if they have been sewn and check that all the seams are the correct length and that the notches line up. We have a tutorial on that process here.

I’d suggest you get into the habit of checking and truing your patterns after making any pattern alterations. It only takes a few minutes once you get the hang of it. Believe me, it will save you a lot of frustration in the long run because you’ll be able to catch a rogue notch or a seam that you didn’t quite adjust properly before it affects the garment’s construction.

I hope these tutorials give you the confidence to shorten the pattern!

Happy sewing,
Emily

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.

  • The Hove jacket pattern can be found here.

  • The Darlow pants pattern can be found here.

  • More information about our Curated by ITF sewing subscription can be found here.

  • Shortening the Flynn jacket - tutorial can be found here.

  • Checking and truing - tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

Q & A series
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Q&A blog header-5.png
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