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ISSUE 102 - THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SETTING IN SLEEVES AND SEWING FLAT

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THE Q & A SERIES

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SETTING IN SLEEVES AND SEWING FLAT

Hi Emily,

I really enjoy your newsletter. Thank you for answering our questions :)

I was wondering about sewing sleeves. There are 2 methods to set the sleeves in, right? Sewing them in when the side seams are already sewn up and when they are not sewn up yet.

When would you choose one over the other? What are the benefits for one or the other in a finished garment?
(I guess there is a sewing pun for this one as well - what are bene-fits in fitting the sleeves :)

I am looking forward to your answer.

Greetings,
Spela

The Hague | The Netherlands

Hi Spela,

You're right, there are two methods for attaching sleeves to a garment - sewing them "flat" or sewing them "in the round."

SEWING SLEEVES FLAT

Sewing flat means that the shoulder seam on the garment is sewn and then the sleeve is attached to the armhole. These illustrations from the Slouchy cardi pattern instructions are a good example of what I mean by this.

The side seam is then closed all in one go - from the hem of the sleeve all the way down to the hem of body of the garment. 

Sewing sleeves in flat is mainly used for knit garments such as t-shirts. It's also often used for more casual or relaxed fitting woven garments - such as oversized shirts, or shirts with a dropped shoulder. You will often see sleeves sewn in flat for men's shirts (and some women's) so that the whole side seam can be sewn as a flat-felled seam. 

This approach works best for sleeves that don't have a really high sleeve cap or very little ease in the sleeve cap. It is very difficult (or impossible!) to sew a sleeve with a high sleeve cap in flat.

Due to this lack of ease, normally sleeves sewn in this way are flatter from the shoulder line on the finished garment. This can impact how the sleeve hangs - causing the sleeve to stick out, rather than relaxing down.

Another thing to consider is that with sewing a sleeve in flat, the side seam becomes the predominant seam and it will determine the shape of the garment under the arm.

SEWING SLEEVES IN THE ROUND

Sewing in the round means that the shoulder seams and side seams of the garment are joined before the sleeve is attached, with seams pressed in the direction suggested in the pattern.

The sleeve underseam is joined before it is inserted into the armhole of the garment.

Normally when sewing a set-in-sleeve there will be ease in the sleeve cap (more about that below). Basting stitches are sewn along the head of the sleeve to assist with easing the sleeve into the armhole.

The sleeve is then pinned inside the armhole with right sides together.

The notches on the sleeve are used to help position the sleeve correctly. Normally (and on all In the Folds patterns), the single notch indicates the front of a sleeve and the double notch indicates the back of a sleeve. The single notch between the two notches on the sleeve indicates where the sleeve will meet the shoulder seam.

With the help of your basting stitches, you can ease the sleeve so that it fits nicely into the armhole. The seam is then sewn in the round with the required seam allowance.

When sewing sleeves in the round you have more control over which direction to press the seams under the arm. You will get a smoother finish under the arm as it will wrap around the curve of the underarm, rather than sit flat.

Sewing sleeves in the round is required for sleeves that have a high sleeve cap (normally required for a fitted or semi-fitted sleeve) and for most sleeves that include ease in a sleeve cap.

Ease is the difference between the armhole measurement and the sleeve cap measurement. The amount will depend on the design and who drafted the pattern, and could be anywhere from about 6mm - 2cm.

The reason ease is required on a sleeve cap is that the top of the sleeve needs to curve over the shoulder. In womenswear the end of the shoulder seam / top of the sleeve will generally sit slightly back from the shoulder point. This means that the top of the sleeve needs to accommodate the curve over the shoulder before extending along the arm.

Which sleeve sewing method to use?

I only sew sleeves in flat if I am sewing a knit or relaxed fit garment with a dropped shoulder. For all other sleeves (which is the majority of what I sew), I sew in the round.

Sewing in the round will almost always help you achieve a sleeve that fits and hangs properly and sits nicely under the arm.

I know this is not what a lot of you want to hear, as it does seem that most sewists prefer sewing sleeves in flat as it feels easier to do, so I'll show you a method that gives you the best of both worlds! It allows you to sew the majority of the sleeve in flat (which many people find easier), but finish it in the round - which gives you the nice smooth curve under the arm and the ability to press the seam in the round. I still prefer to just sew my sleeves in the round, but for those of you who want to sew them flat, this will be of interest to you!

I hope this post demystifies things for you when it comes to these two different sleeve sewing methods!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Slouchy cardi pattern can be found here.

  • The Sawtell top is a project from a past Issue of Curated by ITF. It is currently only available for purchase to members of the Curated by ITF subscription. Read more about the pattern here.

  • The Sawtell dress is a project from a past Issue of Curated by ITF. It is currently only available for purchase to members of the Curated by ITF subscription. Read more about the pattern here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 101 - COPYRIGHT FOR PDF PATTERNS

THE Q & A SERIES

COPYRIGHT FOR PDF PATTERNS

Hi Emily, 

I've been following your story for a while and have been dying to ask you a couple of questions about your work that have been plaguing my mind. Hope you have a couple of minutes to respond.  

- Aren't you scared of people stealing your PDF patterns and producing them?

- Is In The Folds your full-time gig?

Looking forward to hearing from you!

Cheers, 
Javier

Hi Javier,

Great questions!

I don't really think too much about people taking my PDF patterns and producing them. They obviously easily could and I am sure they have already - but there isn't much I can do about it and worrying about it won't change that.

The sewing community is pretty amazing though and in the past when my patterns have been sold on Etsy or garments made with my patterns to sell, makers have reached out to let me know so that I can contact the seller. Thankfully this hasn't happened too many times over the 6 years I've been in business. It is unfortunate that as patternmakers we need to worry about this, but I guess it's just part of running a business in the digital age!

The other thing is that although it's not ideal that people would take my patterns to produce, this doesn't impact my customer pool. Generally people who sew their own clothes aren't buying that much ready-to-wear, so I'm not likely to lose a customer for a pattern if someone produced that garment from one of my patterns. 

The following copyright statement copyright is included in all In The Folds patterns:

To answer your second question, it was only recently that In the Folds became my full-time gig (since November 2021). Before that I was working 2 days a week outside of my business. I also teach casually at a university in Sydney during semester (one day a week) as I really enjoy it and it feels related to my business and keeping my skills up to date and relevant. 

Happy sewing,

Emily

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 100 - Celebrating 100 issues of the Q&A series!

THE Q & A SERIES

Celebrating 100 issues of the Q&A series!

Today marks a very exciting ITF milestone. 100 issues of the Q&A series!

We have covered a lot of ground with this series (and will continue to do so, of course) over the last 100 issues. We have covered sewing, fitting, patternmaking and small business and a lot of things in between! We have answered the little questions and the very big questions! We have received countless emails of gratitude (thank you to all of you who have taken the time to write) and feel incredibly grateful to have a community so excited to learn from us and hear from us every Sunday evening. At a time when our inboxes are flooded with information, we know what a privilege it is that you choose to open our emails and read what we have to share with you!

Rather than answering a question this week, we wanted to take a moment to celebrate by asking you a question. Can you help us spread the word about what we do? Use the below graphics on Instagram to let people know what you love so much about the Q&A series or what you have learned from us. 

And for those of you who would like to say thank you for the content we share, do you know you can sign-up as a supporter? For $7 a month you gain access to our Curated by ITF online community and contribute to the work we do! Or you can say thanks with a one-off donation. 

Feel like visiting the archive of our last 100 posts? You can do so here.

Looking forward to the next hundred!

Happy sewing,

Emily

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 99 - Top tips for beginners (that we can all learn from)

THE Q & A SERIES

Top tips for beginners
(that we can all learn from)

Hello Emily,

I just recently discovered your site!

I’ve never used a sewing machine in my life but this Christmas I got my first one. I’ve always loved the idea of being able to make all the clothes I've envisioned instead of looking for something so specific online. However, I should have realised it was going to be a lot harder than I thought.

I live on a very small island in Canada so I don’t have many resources to turn to. I’ve been watching lots of YouTube videos trying to learn how to sew my own clothes but I’m so overwhelmed! I’m so grateful I’ve found your blog, however, I’d love to know any advice you could give for a newbie. I’m so uncertain about how to follow a pattern, how to make seams look nice on the inside, what bias tape is used for, and other things. I’ve found reading about sewing a bit difficult considering I literally know nothing about it! If you have any advice or recommendations I’d love to know!

I’ve heard great things about your blog and I can’t wait to try making something from it!

Cheers,
Gabrielle

Hi Gabrielle,

How exciting! Welcome to the sewing club! 

For today's issue of the Q & A Series I thought I would give you my top tips for learning to sew, but I think they will be useful to anyone who sews.

1. Be patient with yourself

Learning to do new things with your hands is hard! Over time your new-found skills will become muscle memory, but until then it will take some getting used to. Be patient with yourself and celebrate the small achievements along the way! Cut something straight? Celebrate! Sewed your first French seam? Celebrate!

2. Don't do too much too soon

I think one of the main things that scares people away from sewing is biting off more than you can chew right at the beginning. Although it is very exciting to imagine a completely me-made wardrobe in the most beautiful fabrics, the reality is that’s going to take time and practice. A lot of time and practice! So start with something simple and work on building up your skills. Starting with something that is forgiving in regard to fit would be my suggestion. This post is a good place to start if you’re looking to sew an In the Folds pattern.

A hand is attaching a zip to a piece of fabric.

3. Don’t shy away from the “tricky” stuff.

I know I just said not to to take on too much too soon, but the opposite is also true. Don’t let new things scare you off! Sewing is supposed to be fun, so give yourself a chance to experiment and try new things. It might not always go to plan, but I promise you, you will learn more from the mistakes you make than from the things you do right.

I hear of so many sewists who tailor their sewing plans around their fear of sewing zips. Just give it a go! Although the first few might not be as invisible as you hope, after a few goes you will get the hang of it. If you’ve been too scared to give an invisible zip a go, check out this post and just give it a try. What's the worst that can happen?

4. Find ways to enjoy unpicking / seam ripping

Let’s be real. When you sew (whether you are a beginner or an experienced maker) you are going to end up spending a lot of time unpicking seams that didn’t go to plan. It’s all part of the process! Find ways to relax as you do this, rather than spending the whole time regretting the mistake.

I love to put something light on Netflix and get comfy on the couch when I have unpicking to do and then relax into it. I almost look forward to it now that I’ve re-framed it!

5. If it’s not working, PUT IT DOWN

My first sewing teacher (back when I was 7 years old) taught me this. Sometimes things just don’t go to plan and sewing while frustrated just leads to more mistakes. You’re best off putting your project down for a few hours (or even better overnight) and coming back with fresh eyes. 

A sewing bust with a toile.

6. Get comfortable making toiles

A toile is a practice version of a garment. I know a lot of people dread making a toile, but for me it makes me enjoy the process more. It means that I can check the fit and any tricky details before cutting into my “real” fabric. This means that when I’m sewing the final garment I can just relax into the process and won’t get any surprises!

7. Use Instagram hashtags to work out what you’d like to sew

Instagram is a great tool for sewists. Most independent pattern companies use hashtags to identify their patterns. You can search the hashtags of a pattern you are thinking about sewing and see it made up in a range of different fabrics and on a lot of different bodies. You can also see if there are any sewing or fitting tips related to the pattern.

8. Get some sewing friends

If you can, find some people in your local area to chat to about sewing. Is there a social sewing group in your area you could connect with? Or some online options?

By connecting with other makers you can get feedback about patterns you are thinking about trying, get fitting tips and just geek out on all things sewing! We do a lot of this in our Curated by ITF online group, so if you’re looking for a fun space to connect with other makers from all over the world, you might like to join us.

9. Download our e-book ‘The Little Book of Seam Finishes’

If you haven’t downloaded it already, you should definitely check out our ebook. It runs you through the most used seam finishes and where you can apply them.

10. Don't forget to take it one step at a time

Sewing a garment is a lot like following a recipe. If you were learning to cook you would start with the basics and then apply what you learned to other recipes as you continue to learn. Do the same for sewing.

Try not to worry about what you don’t know (I have been sewing for 25 years and there are still plenty of things I don’t know how to do) and focus on what you do know.

If you can sew a straight seam and a curved seam then you can probably make a top. And by making a simple top you can then learn how to understitch and apply bias binding. This leads me to my last tip...

11. Don’t worry about new techniques or skills until you actually need them

My approach to learning has always been to learn the skill when I actually need it. When you need a skill it forces you to take the time to learn it and there is also more at stake (as you want the finished outcome of what this skill brings). This approach has kept me going when sewing, as well as running a business! When you get to that project that has a tricky technique, give it a go then, rather than worrying about it now.

Best of luck on your sewing adventures!

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Selecting your next project (for beginners and beyond) - Post can be found here.

  • How to sew an invisible zip - Tutorial can be found here.

  • Join Curated by ITF here.

  • Download the Little Book of Seam Finishes here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

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ISSUE 98 - Adjusting length above the bust

THE Q & A SERIES

Adjusting length above the bust

As a petite person (152 cm tall) I often need to make adjustments to the bodice area of a pattern to shorten it, in addition to adjustments at the usual shorten/lengthen line in a pattern.

 
Usually this might be about 2.5 cm above the bust line and a similar adjustment at the usual length adjustment line.
 
Do you have any recommendations for adjusting the Sawtell dress pattern as there are a few more pieces to take into account?

Hi there,

This is a great question! I think a lot of us assume then when thinking about adding or removing length, we are only talking about the hemline. Adding or removing length from other parts of a pattern can make a huge difference and can ensure you achieve a great fit, so I am glad you have found this technique allows for you to achieve a good fit!

Before getting started on this alteration, I'd suggest making a toile (even just of the top section). The fit of the Sawtell dress is fairly forgiving and you might find you don't need to do this. In saying that though, In the Folds patterns are drafted for a height of 170cm (5'7") so it is likely you will need to alter the length for a height of 152cm.

Mark the position of the alteration

Step 1

Mark a line on the FRONT pattern piece and PLACKET in the position you will be removing length. The position is up to you and having a toile to refer to is handy! As you can see, I have put the line in the same position on the FRONT and the PLACKET (in relation to the notches) so that the alteration is consistent between pieces.

Step 2

Carefully cut through the lines.

Mark the amount you would like to remove

Step 3

On the lower section of the pieces, mark the amount you would like to remove from the pattern. Keep the line parallel to the cut line.

Adding length? Check out this post which shows you how to do the opposite alteration.

Step 4

Slide the top section down to the line marked in the previous step. If making a larger alteration it can be helpful to draw a vertical line across the cut line (or extend the grainline up to the top of the piece) so that you can use it to ensure things are matching up correctly either side of the cut line.

Step 5

Re-draw both the stitch line and cut line on the altered sections, smoothing out the lines over the alteration. More about this technique can be found in the Sawtell dress Fit Kit.

Walk your placket seam into your FRONT dress opening seam to check that the lines match up and the notches are placed correctly.

If you also need to make this alteration to the back, I'd suggest splitting the alteration between the back piece and the yoke piece so that the proportions of the design remain intact.

Step 6

You will also need to alter the sleeve as we have removed length from the armhole. It is helpful to rotate the sleeve of the Sawtell so that it matches the armhole. Place the adjustment line in a similar position as you did on the FRONT (using the notches to guide you). If you have also removed length from the back, you will need to do the same for the back of the sleeve.

The outer single notch on the sleeve indicates the front side of the sleeve, while the double notch indicates the back.

Step 7

Remove length from the sleeve in the same way you removed length from the body of the dress. Walk your altered sleeve into the armhole to check that the pieces match.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Sawtell dress pattern and Fit Kit was released as part of the Curated by ITF subscription and is not currently available as a standalone product. To stay in the loop about new releases, sign up to our newsletter here, or learn more about Curated by ITF here.

  • How to lengthen a pattern above the bust - tutorial can be found here.

  • Checking curved seams - tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 97 - Using your bust measurements to select your size

THE Q & A SERIES

Using your bust measurements to select your size

I have a narrow back and upper chest but with an average bust. I try to adjust my toile to reflect this, as often I have to take in 2cm across the back. I'm a size 12/14. There is often excess fabric at the front and back neck whilst everywhere else fits well. The difficulty I have is in knowing how to get rid of the excess at the neck but not affecting the pattern elsewhere. I would value your advice.

- Iola
 Caernarfon, Wales

Hi Iola,

Although it might feel like you are selecting the correct size due to how your garments fit from the bust down, it sounds like you need to start with a smaller size. Rather than making the neck smaller, what you will do is add more width for your bust, while the neck area and back section of the pattern will remain as they are.

SELECT YOUR SIZE

What I suggest you do is select your size according to your high bust measurement, rather than your full bust measurement. Then you can do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) to alter the bust section to match your measurements.

Your high bust is the area above your breasts, under your arms and your full bust is the fullest part of your chest. Find the difference between the two measurements. 

If the difference is 2.5cm (1") your bust is an A cup, 5cm (2") it's a B cup, 7.5cm (3") is a C cup and so on. 

Go back to your high bust measurement and add 5cm (2"). This is what your bust measurement would be if you were a B cup and therefore the size you should be choosing from the pattern.

For example, let's say your upper bust measures 81cm (32"). Add 5cm (2") to this measurement to find out what size your bust measurement falls into on the In the Folds sizing chart (and what size you would be if you had B cup breasts). 81cm + 5cm = 86cm which corresponds to a size C. 

As a front piece is normally cut on the fold, you need to take the measurement you will be adding and divide it by two. 

MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT

The FBA process will depend on what pattern you are making. We have a number of FBA tutorials you can take a look at and apply to your pattern:

More fit resources

If fit is something you're working on improving, I recommend joining Curated by ITF. As well as receiving early access to the latest In The Folds patterns, we teach you how to fit your own garments by providing a broad and accessible range of sewing resources. You also gain access to our Mighty Networks group, which is a beautiful online sewing community where you can ask questions about your fitting challenges and our team will be right there with you to help problem solve!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • FBA on a princess panel - tutorial can be found here.

  • FBA on a bodice block - tutorial can be found here.

  • FBA on a jumpsuit - tutorial can be found here.

  • FBA on a dartless pattern - tutorial can be found here.

  • More information about Curated by ITF can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 96 - Forward shoulder adjustment on the Collins top

THE Q & A SERIES

Forward shoulder adjustment on the Collins top

Hi Emily,

I found your post last week about doing a forward shoulder adjustment really helpful! Is it possible to make a forward shoulder adjustment on the Collins top pattern? I just finished one and it slips to the back on my shoulders and after reading your last email, I realised this is the alteration I need!

Thanks,

J

Hi J,

You can definitely make a forward shoulder adjustment on the Collins top pattern. The process is just slightly different due to how the seams work on that pattern.

There is no shoulder seam on the Collins top, but we do need to move the seams there are so that it's balanced across the shoulder.

Step 1

Trace a copy of FRONT SLEEVE [10], SLEEVE SHOULDER PANEL [11] AND BACK SLEEVE [12]. As there is no shoulder seam, for a forward shoulder adjustment, the aim is to move the seam lines forward.

Mark slash lines on each pattern piece as illustrated. Start with the FRONT SLEEVE [10] and draw the line from the neckline STITCH LINE, down to the lower notch. Keep each slash line close to the seam line.

Step 2

a Take the FRONT SLEEVE [10]. Cut down the slash line from the neckline. Stop 1-2mm from the STITCH LINE to create a hinge.

b Cut in from the seam allowance on the seam, towards the point where you stopped cutting on the slash line. Again, stop 1-2mm from the end of the cut line.

Step 3

a Mark the amount you would like to move the front seam by on the neckline STITCH LINE. Mark the line towards the front of the sleeve. If you have made a toile, refer to it to get an idea. For the example, we are moving the seam line 1cm forward.

b Use the hinge created in STEP 2, to slide the cut line over to the point marked. The seam has now been moved forward. Smooth out the seam line at the transition point if required.

Step 4

a Cut into the slash line on the front side of the SLEEVE SHOULDER PANEL [11]. The front of the panel is indicated by single notches. Cut in through the seam allowance to create a hinge.

b Use the hinge top open the slash line.

Step 5

a Slide pattern paper under the slash line. Attach the main section of the piece to the paper. Mark the amount you will be adding at the neckline STITCH LINE. This will be the same amount that we removed from the FRONT SLEEVE [10]. This means that the sleeve will still be the same size when we complete the alteration, as what we remove from one panel, we add to another.

b Use the hinge created to slide the cut line over to the point marked. The seam has now been moved forward.

Step 6

a Cut through the slash line on the back side of the SLEEVE SHOULDER PANEL [11]. Mark the amount you need to move the back seam by on the neck STITCH LINE. In the example, we are keeping this move consistent with the original design, so are moving it 1cm forward.

b Use the hinge created to slide the cut line over to the point marked. The seam has now been moved forward. Smooth out the seam line at the transition points if required.

Step 7

Repeat process for BACK SLEEVE [12]. Move the seam forward by the amount removed from the SLEEVE SHOULDER PANEL[11] in STEP 6a.

Step 8

We now need to re-draw the neckline over the altered seams. Line up the STITCH LINE on the FRONT SLEEVE [10] and SLEEVE SHOULDER PANEL [11] at the neckline, as if the two pieces have been joined together. Hold in place with a pattern weight or pins.

Step 9

Line up the STITCH LINE on the BACK SLEEVE [12] and SLEEVE SHOULDER PANEL [11] at the neckline, as if the two pieces have been joined together. Hold in place with a pattern weight or pins.

Step 10

Re-draw the neckline, by drawing a line of best fit through the points of the original STITCH LINE. Use a French curve if you have one.

Step 11

Take a tracing wheel and use it to trace over the new neckline. This will transfer the new line onto the overlapping bits.

Step 12

Separate the pieces and mark in the lines marked by the tracing wheel. Add seam allowance (1cm) on to the new neckline.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Collins top pattern can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 95 - Forward shoulder adjustment

THE Q & A SERIES

FORWARD SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT

Hi Emily,

I have a fit question about the Everyday Dress. I've made two linen versions that are very comfortable (and a hack with a sleeveless format). As I wear them, I've noticed that the neck will creep up and likewise the shoulder seams will go toward the back. Are there fit adjustments to do to garments to counteract this creeping? I didn't know if it was a matter of just keeping better posture!

Thank you!

Hi there,

Sounds like you need to make a forward shoulder adjustment. Rather than worrying about changing your posture, all you need to do is make this simple alteration to your pattern - in this case, the Everyday Dress. The beauty of sewing your own clothes is that you don't need to change your body, you can change the clothes! Basically, what you are doing with this alteration is moving the shoulder seam forward, so that it reflects where your shoulders actually sit.

Check how much to move the shoulder seam by

Since you already have a couple of versions of the Everyday dress, you can use this as a reference to work out how far you need to move the seam.

Put the dress on and let it sit comfortably on your body. Stand side-on in front of a full-length mirror and check where the shoulder seam is sitting. Put a pin in the position that you would like to move the shoulder seam to. Take off the dress and measure between the shoulder seam and the pin. This is how much you need to move the shoulder seam by.

In some cases, you will realise that rather than moving the whole shoulder seam forward, you only need to move the side closest to the neck or the armhole. This will change the slope of the shoulder seam.

TIP: It can be a good idea to check what's happening on both sides of a toile. For example, for this fitting, you could put a pin on both shoulders and measure them both. If there is a difference in the measurements (which is likely), find the average of the two.

Step 1

Mark in the new shoulder seam. For this example, we want the shoulder seam sitting closer to the front, so this means marking the new seam on the front pattern piece. If you needed to move the seam backwards, you would be marking it on the back piece.

Mark in your new shoulder seam, by measuring from the stitch line (this is the grey line on In the Folds patterns).

If you are changing the slope of the shoulder, because only a part of it is sitting incorrectly, your shoulder seam might look something like this.

Step 2

Cut along the new shoulder seam.

Step 3

Take the piece that was cut and line up the shoulder seam line (the red line) with the back shoulder stitch line. Stick in place.

Step 4

Smooth out the neckline.

Step 5

Return to the front piece. Add seam allowance to the new shoulder seam line by taping some paper in place along the shoulder and marking in the seam allowance. For this pattern, the seam allowance along the shoulder is 1.2cm / 1/2in. For more information about adding seam allowance, see this post.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Everyday dress pattern can be found here.

  • How to add seam allowance to a pattern - Tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 94 - How to create a capsule wardrobe

THE Q & A SERIES

CREATING A CAPSULE COLLECTION

I love the idea of creating a spring, summer, autumn and winter collection as the great couture houses do.

Have you ever done this and what would you include?

Thanks 
Georgina
- Baildon, UK

Hi Georgina,

What a great question to kick off the new year! Are you like us and see the new year as a time to feel inspired and plan projects? It was this feeling that inspired us to create the Slow Sewing Planner.

For us, rather than designing a whole new capsule collection and hoping it all works well, we like the idea of taking it more slowly. Taking time to assess what's in our wardrobe already - what's working and what isn't, and then building our wardrobe slowly and intentionally.

With the Slow Sewing Planner, you can go as in-depth as you like through this process, but today we thought we'd guide you through the basics.

Pause & reflect

Before getting started with the planning, it's a good idea to take some time to reflect. This is about reflecting on your handmade wardrobe, the way you feel in it and the skills you have learned and would like to learn in the future.

What are the pieces in your wardrobe that you get the most wear out of? What helps you feel the most like yourself? What are you most proud of and why?

It can be easy to get caught up in the next sewing trend and feel like you need to make what everyone else is making. By taking time from the outset to work out what is important to YOU, you will be able to keep these things in the back of your mind as you assess your wardrobe (that's coming next) and start making plans for the future.

Work out what’s working and what’s not

By knowing what is in your wardrobe, what you wear and how often you wear things, you can begin to get a sense of gaps in your wardrobe and select projects to fill these gaps. Although many of us might dream of sewing a whole new wardrobe, or a capsule wardrobe, the reality is that by sewing pieces that fit into your existing wardrobe, you will have a better chance of getting a lot of wear out of it. You will be amazed how just one perfect piece added to your wardrobe can open up a realm of possibility. It's about being clear about what you hope to get out of your wardrobe and selecting pieces and projects that meet these aims.

Before thinking about what you’d like to sew next, it’s a good idea to get organised. When it comes to sewing your own clothes, there are a few places to keep organised to ensure you are making the things you need, as well as using the things you have. This is your wardrobe, your fabric stash and your pattern library.

At this point, things can get overwhelming. Remember, you don't have to do it all at once! If you struggle to say goodbye to clothes (especially the ones you have made yourself), we have some resources in the Slow Sewing Planner that will help you with the letting go process. We know that there is not a one-size fits all approach to organising your wardrobe, so we have given you 4 different exercises so you can decide what works for you. From nice and simple to delving in and tackling it all!

You then need to get really honest with yourself and work out what's working, what's not working and why. We have some worksheets in the planner that guide you through this process.

Organise your stash

While you're in an organising frame of mind, we'd suggest organising your pattern library and fabric stash too! We love the approach detailed by Helen's Closet in this post. Well worth a look if you are looking for a way to comprehensively organise your fabric and patterns!

Make a plan

Now that you've had a good look at what you have, what you're enjoying wearing (and not enjoying wearing), we hope you are feeling inspired and ready to plan for the future!

There are many ways you can plan your makes. You can plan for the year, the season, or just as you go. Whatever works for you! 

This is the point where you need to get clear about what you want from your wardrobe and start filling those gaps! Do you need more clothes for work? More clothes for working from home? How can you select projects so they work in multiple areas of your life?

We suggest you make a mood board and refine it a number of times so you have a very clear idea of what you'd like to make. We have some resources to guide you through this process in the Slow Sewing Planner. At this point it's also a good idea to start thinking about your ideal colour palette and how your plans for your wardrobe fit within this palette. 

As you think about what you'd like to make, think about how it's going to fit within your wardrobe and adjustments you can make to ensure it fits in. For example, do you want to make a dress longer or shorter so it works with a particular jacket? Would you get more wear out of a pair of pants if you substituted an elastic waistband for a flat-front waistband. Ask yourself what you'll wear each new piece with and what skills you would like to learn from the project.

We've loved seeing our community gain more pattern hacking skills with Curated by ITF and grow in confidence to get exactly what they want out of each pattern.

This email just gives you a simple run-through of the steps we suggest you take when planning  new pieces to add to your wardrobe. If this is a process you're interested in diving into, we suggest purchasing the Slow Sewing Planner, as it guides you through this process (and lots more) with worksheets, exercises and additional resources. We'll also be working together through the process in our Mighty Networks group, so if a bit of external accountability is just what you need to get that wardrobe sorted, we'll be right there with you!

We hope your wardrobe dreams come true in 2022!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Curated by ITF. More details can be found here.

  • How to organise your patterns using Trello. Post can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 93 - Add to or remove fullness from a skirt pattern

The Q&A Series

Add or remove fullness from a skirt pattern

I was thinking of making View A of the Acton dress, with capped sleeves and a slimmer skirt. Don't know how to do either of those things, so expect questions 😬

- KS


KM - I was thinking a more voluminous skirt! 😂  but also was going to have questions.

- KM

Add fullness to a skirt

If you would like to make the A-line of the skirt more full, follow the steps below. If you would like to make the skirt straighter, scroll down to the next section.

An In The Folds skirt pattern in grey with red lines running down its length.

Step 1

To start, trace a copy of the front skirt pattern piece with seam allowance - be sure to also trace the stitch line (the grey line on the pattern) and transfer the notches, grainline and drill hole. Cut out the pattern piece.

We will be using the 'Cut and Spread' method to add the extra fullness to the skirt. For more info on this technique, see this post from our blog.

Mark in your slash lines. You can mark in as many as you like. The more you do the more gradual the transition will be. 2-3 is a good number for a pattern of this scale. Distribute them evenly though the piece and gradually fan them out to follow the angle of the side seam (if the pattern was a straight skirt, these lines would be straight).

A grey In The Folds skirt pattern with red lines with arrows.

Step 2

Starting at the hem of the skirt, carefully cut up each of the lines. Cut up to the stitch line, but do not cut through the stitch line.

Cut the remainder of each line from the top edge (cutting down towards the stitch line). Don't cut all the way through though, stop a few millimetres from the stitch line, leaving a 1-2mm "hinge" to keep the pieces together (if they do accidentally come apart, just tape back in place).

Step 3

Slide a piece of pattern paper under the piece. Hold the centre front in place (you can tape it in place if you like) and slowly open up the hemline by the desired amount. We will be opening up each section by the same amount, so make sure to consider this when adding volume.

If you would like to add 60cm (for example) to the total circumference, you need to split this between the 4 parts of the body (left front, right front, left back, right back). This means that we will be adding 15cm to the hemline of each piece (60cm / 4 = 15cm). As we have 3 slash lines, we need to divide the 15cm by 3 (i.e. 5cm).

If you're not sure how much volume to add, don't worry! Have a play with the piece by sliding the slash lines open and get a feel for the amount of volume you'd like to remove.

Tape the opening in place - leaving the rest loose so you can continue altering the pattern.

Step 4

Repeat for each slash line. Tape in place.

Step 5

Re-draw the hemline with a gentle curve. You need to make sure you are meeting the centre front at a right angle.

Smooth out the top edge stitch line over the alteration.

Step 6

Add seam allowance back onto the altered lines.

Repeat for the back skirt.

Would you like to add more volume?

To add more volume, check out this tutorial from the Acton sew-along here.

Remove fullness from a skirt

You may want to make a straighter skirt than the original A-line shape. In this case we do the opposite with our slash lines. Instead of opening them up to add volume, we close them to remove volume.

Step 1

To start, trace a copy of the front skirt pattern piece with seam allowance - be sure to also trace the stitch line (the grey line on the pattern) and transfer the notches, grainline and drill hole. Cut out the pattern piece.

Mark in your slash lines. You can mark in as many as you like. The more you do the more gradual the transition will be. 2-3 is a good number for a pattern of this scale. Distribute them evenly though the piece and gradually fan them out to follow the angle of the side seam (if the pattern was a straight skirt, these lines would be straight).

Step 2

Starting at the hem of the skirt, carefully cut up each of the lines. Cut up to the stitch line, but do not cut through the stitch line.

Cut the remainder of each line from the top edge (cutting down towards the stitch line). Don't cut all the way through though, stop a few millimetres from the stitch line, leaving a 1-2mm "hinge" to keep the pieces together (if they do accidentally come apart, just tape back in place).

Step 3

Consider how much you would like to remove from the circumference of the skirt. To remove 20cm (for example) from the total circumference, you need to split this between the 4 parts of the body (left front, right front, left back, right back). This means that we will be removing 5cm from hemline of each piece (20cm / 4 = 5cm). As we have 3 slash lines, we need to divide the 5cm by 3 (i.e. about 1.7cm).

If you're not sure how much to remove, don't worry! Have a play with the piece by sliding the slash lines closed and get a feel for the amount of volume you'd like to remove.

Slide the cut section over to centre front section - closing out the hem by the desired amount. Tape in place.

Step 4

Repeat for each slash line. Tape in place.

Step 5

Re-draw the hemline with a gentle curve. You need to make sure you are meeting the centre front at a right angle.

Smooth out the top edge stitch line over the alteration.

Add seam allowance back onto the altered lines.

Repeat for the back.

I hope you enjoy changing up your skirt patterns with this tutorial!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Curated by ITF. More details can be found here.

  • Acton dress sleeve expansion can be found here (subscription) and here (stand-alone product).

  • Original Acton dress pattern can be found here.

  • Adding volume to a pattern. Tutorial can be found here.

  • How to add a full skirt to the Acton dress. Tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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ISSUE 92 - Give the gift of sewing

,

The Q&A Series

Give the gift of sewing


Hi Emily,

My 16 year-old niece recently started sewing. It's her birthday coming up and I'd like to give her one of your patterns but I don't know which one to choose. I'm wondering if you have gift cards available so she can pick the right one for her?

Thanks,

Dave

Hi Dave,

What a great hobby for your niece! It's such a fantastic time to learn to sew as there are so many fantastic patterns and resources available. I love the idea of gifting patterns as they not only get the pattern itself, but the making experience that goes along with it!

I have been meaning to add gift cards to my website for a long time. Thank you for your question as it prompted me to finally get around to it! You can purchase a gift card here. You will be sent an email that you can forward to your niece or you can use the digital gift card template that will be sent to you too so you can add a gift message.

I hope your niece enjoys using our patterns!

Kind regards,

Emily

Hi Emily,

I am a member of Curated by ITF (which I love by the way) and would love to gift a subscription to my daughter-in-law for Christmas as she is also a maker. I think it would be fun to sew the projects together! How would I go about this?

Thanks,

Sue

A pattern sits on a table with various sewing tools.

Hi Sue,

What a fantastic gift idea! I am sure your daughter-in-law will be thrilled! There are two options - you can sign-up for here with a regular membership and pay the recurring charge, or you can purchase a 3 month, 6 month or 12 month Curated by ITF membership here. It's a prepaid membership, so you don't need to worry about a recurring charge each month.

With a Curated by ITF membership she will receive first access to new projects each month. This includes new patterns, fitting resources or hack kits - resources that will empower makers on their sewing, pattern making and fitting journey.

Subscribers will gain access to:

  • New monthly projects: Gift recipient will receive their first project right away and then a new project on the first of every month, straight to their inbox. Each project will teach new skills and build on what the community has been learning each month. New projects will be sent straight to the gift recipient for either 3, 6 or 12 months - depending on the gift selection. Would you like to see what we're making this month? You can see the current project here.

  • Access to our ITF community platform: Gift recipient will be able to connect with other makers by gaining access to our online community platform. A place to share ideas, inspiration and questions. Makers will feel supported as they can work on the same project as other makers.

  • Community-centred content: Sew-alongs, tutorials and sneak peeks of upcoming patterns and projects that we’re working on for you.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • In the Folds gift cards can be found here.

  • Curated by ITF Gifted membership can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

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ISSUE 91 - Selecting a size for the Acton dress

THE Q & A SERIES

Selecting a size for the Acton dress

Hello,

I am about to get started on the Acton dress, but am feeling a little bit confused.

My measurements are as follows:

Bust 84cm
High Bust 80.5cm
Waist 72cm
Hips 89cm

I have no idea how to select the right size based on my measurements.

I'm hoping that you can help.

Thank you

Hi there,

I am excited to hear you will be working on an Acton dress! This is a timely question as I have Actons on my mind, as we just released a new sleeve expansion for this pattern!

Getting started

It might be helpful to print the size chart so you can circle / highlight the size according to your measurements, as you work through this process. Alternatively, jot down your measurements and write the corresponding size / sizes next to each one as you work down the list.

1. Start with your high bust measurement

When selecting your size based on your measurements it will depend on the style of the garment. For the Acton dress, you need to select your size based on your high bust measurement. This is due to the fitted nature of the bodice. Generally, when selecting your size for fitted styles that involve the upper half of your body, you are best off selecting a size based on your high bust measurement. 

With a high bust measurement of 80.5cm, this puts your measurements in a size C.

You then work your way down the column for that size and check if your other measurements sit within the same size bracket. For most of us, they won't, and that's not a problem! This is the joy of making your own clothes. You can make them to fit your body!

2. Work out if you need to do a bust adjustment

Your bust measurement is 84cm, but the pattern is drafted for an 86cm bust for size C. This means that your bust is 2cm smaller than the pattern. Due to this, you may choose to do a 2cm Small Bust Adjustment. We have tutorials about how to do both a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) and a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on our website, if you'd like to take a look.

3. Look at waist measurements

We then continue to work our way down the column. Your waist measurement, at 72cm, is 1cm larger than the size C, but with the amount of ease in the waist of the Acton dress, this will not be a problem.

Ease is the difference between the body measurements a pattern is designed for and the finished garment measurements. To work out the ease in a pattern, you need to take the body measurements and subtract them from the finished garment measurements.

For woven garments, ease is required to make a garment comfortable to move in. More ease is added to change the silhouette of a design. For example, in the Acton dress, the amount of ease in the hip area is more than you need to sit, stand, move etc. but it is this amount of ease that gives the pattern its A-line shape.

In the case of the waist for a size C, we subtract 71cm from 81.5cm. The result is 9.5cm. This means there is 9.5cm extra fabric at the waist.

4. Look at hip measurements

The last measurement to check is your hips. Your hip measurement is 89cm. This is smaller than the size C and would you put you in a size B. If you were making View A (the A-line skirt), you could grade down a size if you wanted. If it was me, I wouldn't worry about grading to a smaller size due to the design of the pattern. For a larger hip size, I would grade up a size. 

5. Bring it all together

You can now look at your circled / highlighted size chart and see that you should be selecting a size C and doing a small bust adjustment of 2cm. Please keep in mind that this process has not considered length, and sometimes to achieve a great fit, you will need to add or remove length in different parts of a pattern. For how to do this on the Acton dress, you can see this post.

This will give you a really good start when it comes to printing the correct size. We would still suggest making a toile though so that you can check you are happy with the fit before cutting into your real fabric.

Although I have linked to a number of tutorials in this email, we have a whole lot more available in the Acton dress sew-along. You can check it out here.

If you're making another one of our patterns and not sure where to start when taking tour measurements, you might find this post from the Q&A series archive helpful. You may also like this post, which also talks about fit and things to consider when adding and removing length.

I hope this helps and you now feel confident to get started!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • Acton dress pattern can be found here.

  • Acton dress sleeve expansion can be found here.

  • Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) on princess panels. Tutorial can be found here.

  • Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on princess panels. Tutorial can be found here.

  • How to grade between sizes on the Acton dress. Tutorial can be found here.

  • How to add length to the Acton bodice. Tutorial can be found here.

  • How to make a toile of the Acton dress. Tutorial can be found here.

  • The Acton dress sew-along can be found here.

  • Selecting the correct size. Tutorial can be found here.

  • Getting a good fit. Tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

More posts in the series

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ISSUE 90 - How to adjust the rise on the Darlow pants pattern

THE Q & A SERIES

How to adjust the rise on the Darlow pants pattern

Hi Emily, 

Firstly I want to say I love your ethos and thank you for designing such an interesting pattern that is the Darlow Pants. I've made two muslins now (one is wearable!) But I wanted to ask if you had any suggestions as to how to best adjust the overall rise on the pants. The issue I'm having is, they are sitting approx 1.5 inches below my natural waist. I am tall (5"10) and carry a lot of my height in my lower torso so it is not unusual to lengthen the rise of pants patterns up to 2.5 inches for me. I tried with my second muslin to lengthen the front and back crotch both by 2" thinking that if it was too much it will be easy to see how much, rather than going under and having to make yet another muslin. However, it really distorted the pattern piece for the upper part of the front leg, and makes me think it needs to have length added to the sides as well as the crotch. I've only ever lengthened the rise on pants with a side seam before. So I'm feeling a little lost as to how to adjust it. 

I do really love the pattern, and think that if I can just work this out it'll make me feel so good seeing them up in my beautiful heavyweight linen ❤️  It's taken me a couple of months to get to this point, and I have really enjoyed your instructions and design. 

Thanks for your time.

A

Hi there,

I am so pleased to hear you are enjoying the Darlow pants pattern and are working on making the fit just right for you.

You're right, the panel lines on the Darlow pants means that you have to go about things in a slightly different way. I'm happy to say though that it's not too hard at all, just a different approach to what you're used to!

Step 1
Take the pieces from the style you are making (this will work on either style) and mark a horizontal line across each piece in the position you would like to add the length. It’s best to position this line above the curve of the crotch on the FRONT [5]. Use the notches to help you line up the pieces so that you can put the horizontal line in the same position on all the pieces.

Extend the grainline on each piece to that it is on both sides of the line marked. Move the grainline if required (just make sure it’s parallel to the original grainline).

Step 2
Cut through the horizontal lines.

Step 3
Tape pieces of pattern paper on the lower section of each pattern piece (top edge of each piece). Extend the grainline onto the paper.

Step 4
Mark a horizontal line on each piece to indicate how much height you would like to add. This needs to be the same amount for each piece as we are adding length the whole way around the pants.

Step 5
Attach the top section of each pattern piece onto the pattern paper, lining up the bottom edge with the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline markings to help you keep things lined up correctly.

Step 6
Re-draw the seam lines with gentle curves across the alteration.

Finalise the pattern

Once you have made the alteration, just make sure to check the seams. This is really important when making any alterations to a pattern. You can see this post for an example of how to do that.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • Darlow pattern can be found here.

  • How to cut fabric without cutting your pattern (much) - Tilly and the Buttons. Tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

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ISSUE 89 - How to trace patterns

THE Q & A SERIES

How to trace patterns

Hi Emily

I purchased the Collins Top pattern at the end of last year and I’m so excited to get stuck into making it now the kids have gone back to school! I am a beginner trying to branch out a bit further than just sewing Boomerang Bags so I thought I’d give your pattern a go.

However, I get so nervous cutting up the original pattern, because, what if it is not the right size for me? What’s the best way to do this... should I trace it on another piece of paper? Or do I lay it onto the material and use a marker pencil to draw the outline? Or do I just cut it up and hope for the best!!
Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Suse

Hi Suse,

I am so pleased to hear that you will be sewing a Collins top!

I never cut the original pattern, because like you, I am worried it will be the wrong size or I will want to use the other sizes in the future! Here are some tips for tracing patterns.

Why it's good to trace patterns

The main reason to trace patterns is so that you will always have the original pattern to refer back to. It’s great to reference this in case something goes wrong but also so you can see how the pattern has changed as you’ve worked on it. This might be helpful when you're sewing other patterns, as often we have to make the same adjustments to each. (This means fitting gets a lot easier over time!)

Other reasons why it is a good idea to trace a pattern are:

• You can transfer the pattern onto a paper / card that you prefer working with. For example, if you don't like how delicate tissue paper is, you can transfer the pattern onto something sturdier.

• It means you keep the original pattern with all the sizes so you can use a different size in the future.

• It means that you can trace just the size/s you need, if you have printed all the sizes in the pattern. This can save confusion when there are intersecting lines.

What paper to use

There are countless pattern paper options and it will depend on your preferences and what you have access to.

Consider:

• Dot and cross paper (this is our preference)

• Swedish tracing paper

• Plain pattern paper

• Tracing paper

• Some people use mid-weight interfacing (the type that doesn't have glue on it)

How to trace a pattern

1. Lay the pattern out on a large flat surface.

2. Place the pattern paper on top of the pattern piece. Hold paper in place with pattern weights (if you don't have pattern weights - canned food works well).

3. Take a pacer pencil and a ruler and trace around the outline of each pattern piece. Go slowly and trace carefully. Be sure to transfer the grainline and all pattern markings, such as notches, darts and drill holes. It is up to you whether or not you want to trace the stitch line as well as the cutting line. In the Folds patterns include both so that it is easier to make adjustments to the patterns - but it is up to you if you want to trace both lines.

4. Add the name of the pattern, the size/s you traced, the pattern piece name and cutting instructions, such as 'cut on the fold'. We also suggest adding the date you traced the pattern. This helps if you make adjustments to the pattern and would like to refer back to it in future.

5. You are ready to cut out your pattern or you may want to leave this uncut to leave space to make adjustments.

Other methods for tracing patterns

Another option is to use a tracing wheel, to trace the pattern onto sheets of pattern card. You then just need to take a ruler and mark lines using the dots left on the card. This is a great option if you would like a more hard-wearing pattern. You can also use a tracing wheel and dressmakers carbon paper to transfer the pattern directly to the fabric. I have never used this method as I like having my patterns on paper / card ready to go straight onto the fabric, but if you would like to give it a go, you can find a tutorial from Tilly and the Buttons here.

I hope this helps!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • Collins top pattern can be found here

  • How to cut fabric without cutting your pattern (much) - Tilly and the Buttons. Tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

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ISSUE 88 - How to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on the Rushcutter dress

THE Q & A SERIES

How to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on the Rushcutter dress

Hi Emily. 

I would like to make the Rushcutter dress, but I'm fairly sure I'll need a full bust adjustment (I have a 3.5" difference between high and full bust).

I'm not sure how I'd do it on the Rushcutter, and I couldn't find a tutorial on your site. Is there a tutorial available?

Thanks!
Cindy
- Port Townsend, WA | USA

Hi Cindy,

I am happy to hear you would like to make the Rushcutter dress!

It's up to you about the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). I think you may be able to get away with not doing it as there is a fair amount of ease at the bust (14cm / 5 1/2in). If you would like to make the alteration though, I have created a tutorial on how to do it. 

This same method could be used for doing a SBA (small bust adjustment) - you would just be taking out volume rather than adding it in.

Getting started

When it comes to the Rushcutter dress, the thing that makes it a little bit different when it comes to doing a FBA is that it doesn't have a dart, armhole or side seams on the FRONT PANEL [1]. The first thing we need to do is find a few reference points that will help us make the alteration.

Step 1
Take the FRONT PANEL [1] and SIDE PANEL [3] and line up STITCH LINE on STITCH LINE as if the two panels have been sewn together. Tape / pin in place.

Step 2
Mark in the side seam by extending the grainline on the SIDE PANEL [3] to the top and bottom of the piece.

Step 3
Take the YOKE [11]* and line it up as if it has been sewn. Use the side seam line as a guide and the side seam notch on the yoke. As you can see, there is shaping in this seam so you won’t be able to match it all the way along. You can also add the CENTRE FRONT PANEL [4] if it helps you visualise, but it isn’t required for the alteration. Tape / pin in place.

*This tutorial will also work for the sleeve version. If making the sleeve version, still use the YOKE to create the modification lines. This is just helping you get all the points of reference in place for the alteration.

Step 4
Extend the side seam line up to the YOKE. We have marked our armhole, shoulder, neckline and centre front in red so that the shape of the piece becomes clear. As you can see, the pattern now looks like a more regular dress shape and in a moment you will be able to a FBA as you normally would on a pattern without a dart.

Step 5
Mark in the regular SBA / FBA modification lines as illustrated (find your apex point by holding the pattern up to your body or referring to your toile if you have made one).

If making the sleeve version, remove the YOKE piece so that the armhole modification line only goes to the corner of the piece (point marked in illustration).

Step 6
Once you have the alteration lines marked on the pattern, you can then use our FBA tutorial for the Collins top for the rest of the process. You can find that tutorial here. 

In this tutorial you can see that you have the option to add a dart to the dress or you can add the dart and then remove it by relocating the fullness.

I hope this tutorial helps you make a dress that you will wear and love!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • Rushcutter dress pattern can be found here.

  • Full Bust Adjustment for a dartless bodice - tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

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ISSUE 87 - Tips for working with delicate fabrics

THE Q & A SERIES

Tips for working with delicate fabrics

Hi Emily,
Wow, I just love the new Whitlow robe pattern! The raglan sleeve really sets it apart from other robe patterns I have seen.

I'd love to make one as a gift for my mother-in-law and am thinking about using a midweight silk so it can be lovely and luxurious.

I have never worked with silk before, so I'm wondering if you might have some tips to get me started?

Thanks​!

Gabby
- Melbourne | Australia

Hi Gabby,

I am so happy to hear you are as excited as we are about the Whitlow robe.

This sounds like a lovely gift idea!

The idea of silk feels intimidating to work with, but with a few tips up your sleeve, I think you'll be just fine!

I wrote a post a few years ago about this in relation to the Acton dress, so will use some of those tips today as they apply to the Whitlow robe.

1. Cut between layers of paper

If you've ever tried to cut a delicate fabric, you will know that it can be difficult! It can be hard to keep it on grain and it likes to shift around, which makes accurate cutting almost impossible. The solution to this is to cut between layers of paper.

This means that you lay out some paper (something fine like patternmaking paper) and then lay your fabric on top. Line up the selvedges with the straight edge of the paper to ensure everything is on grain. Gently use the tips of your fingers (or a ruler works too) to smooth out any bubbles in the fabric.

If your fabric is really prone to moving, you can lay another piece of paper on top of the fabric and then place your pattern pieces on top and pin through all layers.

Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric through the layer of paper. This will ensure that the fabric is stable and remains on grain. When you cut, you will cut through the fabric and the paper. You will notice a huge difference in how accurately you can cut when you cut like this.

I know a lot of you might be afraid to cut through paper with your fabric scissors, but there is nothing to worry about. This is standard practice in the industry and you can always get your scissors sharpened if you need to! It will be worth it to have accurately cut fabrics. 

If your fabric is prone to stretching, leave your pieces pinned on the pattern paper until you are ready to use the piece.

For more information on this and some photos, checkout this post from Threads Magazine.

2. Use a new machine needle

Put a new sewing machine needle in your machine so you know it's nice and sharp. It's also good to use a fine needle such as 60/8 or 70/10. For more info on selecting the correct machine needle, check out this post from Made to Sew. 

2. If in doubt, hand baste

Hand basting can help things stay where they should be. For example, when sewing the Whitlow robe, you may hand baste the collar in place before stitching in the ditch. This will give you peace of mind and ensure everything stays where it should.

4. Use Tearaway

Tearaway is not that common in the sewing world, but is commonly used in the industry to prevent garments from stretching during the making process. It's normally used on seams such as the neckline and armholes. 

In the case of the Whitlow robe, the front opening is cut on the bias and therefore prone to stretching. Tearaway shields is a good way to make sure you are not stretching the fabric as you sew. For more info on how to create Tearaway shields, see this post from Tessuti.

5. Don't skip staystitching

It's really important to staystitch fabrics in the areas that are prone to stretching. This normally includes necklines and armholes. Be sure to do this as soon as you pick up the piece for the first time so that it doesn't stretch as you work on your garment. In the case of the Whitlow robe, the area that is most likely to stretch is the front opening as it's cut on the bias.

If you're still worried your fabric is stretching, you can use stay tape. Measure the length of the centre front opening and then cut the tape to the same length. You then need to press it onto the seam allowance of the opening. Having it cut to the correct length will help you see if the fabric has stretched. If it has, use steam to shrink it back to size before applying the stay tape.

You can find a video from Lauren Guthrie here on how to use stay tape.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • 6 tips for sewing with silk (or other delicate fabrics). Post can be found here.

  • Tips to Lay Out a Pattern and Cut Fabric Accurately - Threads Magazine. Post can be found here.

  • What Size Machine Needle? - Made to Sew. Post can be found here.

  • Sewing tip: Tear-away vilene shields - Tessuti. Post can be found here.

  • Form tape interfacing and how to use it - Lauren Guthrie. You can watch the video here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

Collins top (with added elastic on sleeves) made by @birdy_sew_obsessed

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ISSUE 86 - Tips for cutting pockets

THE Q & A SERIES

Tips for cutting pockets

Hi there,
I'm just in the process of laying out the Barkly Skirt pattern (View A) onto my lovely woollen fabric and find that I'm a bit short. Is there a way I can make the pocket pouch (piece 5) out of some of the main fabric say a third, and the rest out of a lighter fabric the same as I am using for piece 4?

Thanks​!

- Keri,
Williamstown, Australia

Hi Keri,

I am pleased to hear you are making the Barkly skirt! A woollen Barkly sounds like a perfect winter staple.

You can definitely do what you're suggesting to reduce the amount of fabric you need. 

Cut pocket facings in an alternate fabric

To get started, I'd suggest cutting the POCKET FACING [4] from an alternate fabric. This piece will not be seen on the outside of the garment, so is a great one to substitute if you've got limited fabric. In the illustration above I have shown you the piece I am referring to and where it goes in the finished skirt. I have made the front panels transparent so you can see it.

Even if you did enough enough fabric, I often cut pocket facings from an alternate fabric. It's a good way to minimise bulk. I suggest using a fabric that is a similar colour to the main fabric, so it doesn't draw attention when you have your hand in the pocket (unless you want to draw attention with a fun pop of colour!)

Create a pocket shield

As for piece number 5 (the pocket bag), what I suggest you do is sew the pocket in the way that jeans pockets are often done. This creates a "shield" - a piece that can be cut from the main fabric (in this case, wool) that can be attached to an alternate (often lighter weight) fabric. In jeans you will see a pocket shield made from denim attached to a lightweight pocket bag. This minimises bulk in the pocket and gives the illusion that the pocket is cut completely from denim.

Step 1
Place POCKET BAG [5] pattern piece on POCKET FACING [4] - lining up the edges and notches.

Draw in the shape of the shield piece (this will be cut from the main fabric). You want the pocket shield to extend down further than the pocket opening so that when it's sewn in place, you don't see the seam. If you can't see the pocket opening line from the POCKET FACING [4], try putting the pieces up to a window so that you can see through to the piece underneath.

For the Barkly skirt, I'd suggest that the POCKET SHIELD edge be about 4cm (1 1/2in) from the slanted edge of POCKET FACING [4] - as this will allow for the pocket shield to extend 3cm (1 1/4in) past the pocket opening when the pocket is assembled.

You could make the line parallel to the edge on the POCKET FACING [4], but I prefer the curve so that there is more length in the top section of the shield. This is because the top section of the pocket is more likely to open and show the POCKET FACING [4] rather than the lower part. This is up to you though as I know your fabric is limited.

Step 2
Trace the POCKET SHIELD onto some pattern paper. This means tracing the top edge and the sides of the POCKET BAG [5] down to the POCKET SHIELD edge marked in Step 1. When tracing a pattern piece, remember to always transfer the grainline and notches. Cut POCKET SHIELD piece from your main fabric (in this case, the wool). Cut the POCKET BAG [5] from the fabric you are using for the POCKET FACING [4].

Step 3
Overlock / serge bottom edge of the POCKET SHIELD piece. If your fabric isn't too thick or bulky, you could consider adding seam allowance to this edge on the pattern piece (before cutting from fabric) and turning the raw edge under and top stitching, if you don't have an overlocker / serger.

Step 4
Pin POCKET SHIELD to POCKET BAG [5] (wrong side of POCKET SHIELD to right side of POCKET BAG [5]) and stitch close to the edge to keep the two pieces together. This line of stitching will be hidden in the seam once you assemble the pocket. You can now treat this as if it just one piece of fabric.

When the pocket is assembled, you won't be able to see the overlapping fabric. As you can see in the illustration, I have made the POCKET FACING [4] transparent so you can see how the pieces work together.

I hope this cuts down the amount of fabric you need! If you are still coming up short, you could consider cutting one set of waistband pieces in an alternate fabric, as well as the hem facing pieces.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • Barkly skirt pattern can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

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ISSUE 85 - Tools for patternmaking

THE Q & A SERIES

Tools for patternmaking

I’ve sewn clothes off and on with store-bought patterns. I am now just beginning to learn to draft my own patterns! In the Folds has been a wonderful resource — thank you for your generosity in sharing your wealth of knowledge!

My question is about French curves. I’m assuming it would be a good tool to purchase. But there are so many different types and sets out there. What would be good to start with as I begin learning pattern drafting?


Thank you!

- Laura, Taylors USA

Hi Laura,

It is great to hear that you have been learning how to draft your own patterns!

This is a great question. There are so many tools out there for sewing and patternmaking, that it can get overwhelming. It's easy to think we need all the tools to get started, but I am a big fan of making it work with just a few.

A French curve is a great one to have in your patternmaking kit although there are ways to mark beautiful curves with a regular patternmaking ruler - so I will show you my pick of French curves and then tell you about how you can make it work with a regular grading ruler, if that is your preference.

French curve

A French curve is a handy tool for drawing necklines, armholes, side seams, waist lines and sleeve caps (and any curve a pattern has for that matter). If you find it tricky to draw smooth curves, this might just be the tool you need in your patternmaking toolbox! I like this style of French curve as it has all the shapes you could ever need for patternmaking in the one tool - straight edge for marking straight lines and adding seam allowance - soft curve for things like hip curves and waist lines and the more extreme curve for armholes and necklines. It is also flexible, which makes it nice and easy to use.

Another option for curves is a Patternmaster. I use my French curve a lot more than my Patternmaster, but I know there are many patternmakers who use a Patternmaster for everything.

Grading ruler

My grading ruler is my most used patternmaking tool. To get started with patternmaking, you can use any ruler you already have, but a grading ruler will make your life a lot easier. A grading ruler is long (so you can draw nice long lines in one go), transparent (great for adding seam allowance) and flexible (perfect for measuring and marking curves).

Although I do use my French curve sometimes, in general, I use my grading ruler for everything - including marking curves. You can see how do this in this video here that I made recently for our Curated by ITF community.

I hope this post helps you on your patternmaking journey!

Happy drafting,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • Marking curves with a straight ruler. Video can be found here.

  • Curated by In the Folds - monthly project and supportive community group. Details can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

Details of the Flynn jacket made by @oh.sew.renee

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ISSUE 84 - Using finished garment measurements to select your size

THE Q & A SERIES

Using finished garment measurements to select your size

Hello,

I recently downloaded your wide leg pants from the Peppermint Magazine. Firstly, thank you for the free pattern. I think they are just perfect and I am looking forward to making them up.

I'm in the initial checking to see if I need to alter anything stage before I cut the fabric out and have a question about the designer ease you may have included in your pattern. I am a lovely pear shaped woman with large front and inner thighs so would love to make sure the pattern will have enough ease. I really hope you don't mind me asking. Are you able to tell me what designer ease you have drafted the pattern to have in the thigh and hip area? And also how far down the hip curve is the hip line in your pattern?

I apologise in advance if it's a question that I shouldn't ask you as the designer.

Thank you for any advice you can give.

Hi there,

I am pleased you are planning to make the Peppermint Wide leg pants pattern!

This is definitely something I can help with, and with the tips in this email, you should be able to know what to look for when selecting your size when working with new patterns.

What is ease?

To start, it's a good idea to understand what 'ease' means. In general, ease is the difference between the finished garment measurements and your actual body measurements. For woven garments, there will always be a certain amount of ease between the body measurements and the garment measurements. This is what allows us to move in woven clothes - to feel comfortable to sit, stand and move our arms and legs.

For fitted knit garments, there may be no difference between the body measurements and the garment measurements, or even negative ease. This is offset by the stretch in the fabric.

There are two types of ease when it comes to garment sewing. There is "wearing ease" which is the amount of ease needed to wear a garment comfortably. Even in very fitted garments, you need enough ease in the garment to move, sit down, lift your arms etc. This amount is different depending on the garment type, but later in this email I will show you how to find it.

The other type of ease to consider is "design ease." This is the ease that is used in the design to make the style, or look of the garment, but isn't necessarily required for the garment to fit correctly. For example, if you look at the photos of the wide leg pants above, the legs have been widened to make the shape of the pants. There is a certain amount of ease at the ankle / calf section. Only a small amount of that is required to get the pants on (fitting ease) while the rest is design ease to give it the wide leg shape.

How much ease is included in a pattern?

With In the Folds patterns, we always include two measurement charts in our instruction booklets. One gives you the body measurements (this is the same across all In the Folds patterns) and can be found here,  while the other is the finished measurement chart, and changes between patterns.

The finished measurement chart is the measurements of the finished pattern pieces themselves, in specific locations, and can provide information about the amount of ease that has been included in the pattern.

Above, you can see the measurement charts included in the Peppermint Wide Leg pants pattern. To find the amount of ease in the pattern, you need to subtract the body measurements from the finished garment measurements.

For example, to find out how much ease is in the hip for a size D (highlighted), we subtract 99cm (39") from 104.5cm (41 1/8"), giving us a difference of 5.5cm (2 1/4"). We now know that the pattern has been designed to have 5.5cm (2 1/4") ease at the hip.

Remember, when selecting your size from a sizing chart, you don't need to select just one size. It is very common to have measurements that span across several sizes, and you can grade between pattern sizes to ensure you are getting the correct fit for your body.

Marking points of interest on the pattern

The next part of the question is regarding locating important guidelines on the pattern itself. This depends on the pattern, but I can help you locate it on the Wide leg pants pattern, and give you some tips that could help you find it on other patterns.

Marking waistline

To get started, we will be finding the waistline on the pattern. From the photos of the garment on a model, you can see that the top of the waistband sits on the waist.

As the garment has a waistband, to mark where our waistline is on the pattern (and then mark the hip line in a moment), I have placed the waistband piece on the pants front, as if the two pieces have been sewn together. This means that we must remove the seam allowance by placing stitch line on stitch line. Hold in place with a pattern weight or pin.

The waistline can now be indicated on the stitch line at the top of the waistband.

Marking hip line

The vertical distance between the waist line and the hip line will depend on the pattern you are using and what height it was drafted for. In general, the hip level is normally 20cm - 22cm (8-9in) below waist level.

On In the Folds patterns this distance is 21cm (8 1/4in). This can be marked by measuring down from the waistline and marking a horizontal line. 

If you don't know how far down the hip line is, you can look for clues on the pattern. For example, some patterns will have the hip line indicated with a notch on the side seam.

Another way to find it is to find where the opening is. Generally, an opening will normally finish at around the hip level, as we need a garment to open up enough that it can fit over our hips, which is often the widest part of our body. In the pants example, you can see that the fly finishes at the drill hole on the centre front crotch and the hip line is just below. 

Transfer hip line to back

Now that we have the hip line marked on the front of the pants, we can transfer it to the back. To do this, you need to line up the pieces at the side seam as if they have been sewn. Again, this means lining up stitch line on stitch line. 

As you can't line up the side seam from the top, due to the pocket opening, the simplest way to do this is to line up the pieces at the hem and walk the seam until you reach the hem line.

Extend the hip line over to the back pattern piece.

If your pattern didn't include finished garment measurements, you could then measure the length of this line to determine the finished hip width. Remember to always disregard the seam allowance when measuring finished garment measurements.

Find thigh measurement

You can then work out where the fullest part of your thigh is in relation to the pattern. I suggest doing this by tying some elastic around your hips and then tying a piece around the fullest part of your thigh. You can then measure the vertical distance between these two points.

On my body, the fullest part of my thigh is 12cm (4 3/4in) below my hip. I marked this on the pattern pieces in the same way I marked the hip line.

I then measured from one side of the line to the other to work out the difference between the pattern measurement and my body measurement. The pattern at this point measures 67cm (26 3/8in), while my actual thigh at this point measures 63cm (24 3/4in). This means there would be 4cm (1 1/2in) ease at this point.

To check if this feels like a comfortable amount of ease for you, you can hold a tape measure around your thigh at this length. Move it up and down, squat, sit and walk. If it doesn't dig in or feel tight, you should not have a problem with this amount of ease. If it does feel tight, you may need to grade up to a larger pattern size through the leg of the pattern to allow more room for your thighs.

Other things to consider

This tutorial hasn't discussed height, so please also keep this in mind. If you are not the height this pattern was originally drafted for (i.e. 170cm (5'7") then you may need to alter the length of the pattern before checking the width of these guidelines. Adding length doesn't always refer to just adding length to the legs, you may need to add or remove length between the waist line and hip line, depending on your body proportions.

Make a toile

I am a strong believer in making a toile (some of you might know it as a muslin). Although taking your measurements gives you a really good idea of where to start with selecting a size / making adjustments, nothing beats what you can learn from making a toile. Even though I have been sewing since I was a child, I never make a garment without first making a toile (yes, even for a sack dress!). It means that by the time I get to cutting the "proper" fabric, I can relax and enjoy the process - knowing that the garment I finish with will (most likely) be something that I will love to wear.

Above you can see my toile for my Neale jumpsuit that I shared in our Mighty Networks group. When it came to sewing the real thing, I was feeling confident that it would turn out how I wanted it to.

For guidance on making a toile, check out this post.

More resources

If fitting is something you would like to know more about, you may be interested in having a read of this Q&A post from our archive.

We also discuss fitting a lot in the Curated by ITF online community. We covered a lot about measuring a pattern and comparing this to your body in Issue 1 of Curated by In the Folds with the Neale jumpsuit pattern and Fit Kit. If you sign-up to Issue 2 of Curated, you will have a chance to purchase Issue 1, if this information sounds appealing to you. In our online group, we help troubleshoot, provide guidance and tutorials to give makers confidence on both the sewing and fitting journey. If you are interested in joining us, you can find more details here.

I hope you feel confident to get started on your Peppermint Wide leg pants, now that you know exactly how to select the right size for your measurements. 

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • The Pattern Wide Leg pants pattern can be found here.

  • In the Folds sizing chart can be found here.

  • Grading between pattern sizes. Tutorial can be found here.

  • Checking seams. Tutorial can be found here.

  • How to (and why) make a toile. Tutorial can be found here.

  • Selecting the correct size. Tutorial can be found here.

  • Curated by In the Folds - monthly project and supportive community group. Details can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

Neale jumpsuit made by @shuaychong

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ISSUE 83 - Tips for sewing French seams

THE Q & A SERIES

Tips for sewing French seams

Hi Emily,

I absolutely love French Seams but sometimes the seam allowance in a pattern doesn’t seem big enough for me to use them. I once made a top that came out too tight because of the French Seams!!

If I know I want to use French Seams for a garment that only has a 1cm seam allowance should I just cut it out a bit bigger? And how much bigger? Also, how do I get a neat finish when using French Seams in tricky places like around an armhole?

Thanks heaps.

- Kat

Hi Emily,

Will French seams work if i have a pattern with overall seam allowance of 5/8"? It seems this might be for a 4/8" seam, but i can't get my head around it!

- Dominique

Hi Kat and Dominique,

French seams are my favourite seam finish and I'm excited you would like to give them a go too!

What is a French seam?

French seams will give you a beautiful and clean finish, without the need for an overlocker / serger - so a great option if you do not have one. 

They are great for light to midweight fabrics, especially those that are prone to fraying. French seams are also the best choice of finish if you are using a sheer fabric. Although French seams are more time consuming than using an overlocker / serger, they are very satisfying and give one of the most beautiful finishes possible.

Seam allowance required for a French seam

To sew a French seam, you will need a seam allowance of at least 1.2cm (1/2"). If you have a pattern with a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance, you will need to add 2mm around the edge of the pattern. You can do this by referring to this post about how to add seam allowance to a pattern. 

If you have already cut out your pattern, you can trace another copy and add the correct seam allowance or add the seam allowance by marking it on the fabric when you have your pattern pinned in place.

Here at In the Folds, we use a 1.2cm (1/2") seam allowance for sewing French seams, as this keeps things consistent across all our patterns (as 1.2cm is a good seam allowance for a stitched and overlocked seam too).

You can also sew a French seam that has a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance though. All you need to do is sew the first seam with a larger seam allowance. I will explain more about this when I show you how to sew a French seam below.

How to sew a French seam

A Pin the pieces you are joining together with wrong sides together. Stitch with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance.

If you are working with a pattern that has a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, sew with a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance. You can now follow the rest of the steps as they are.

B Trim down the seam allowance by about half. Be careful to not leave any threads, as these can end up poking through the finished seam if you are not careful. Press seam allowance to one side.

If sewing a curve, it's very important the you trim down the seam as much as possible, as this will help you get the seam to sit nice and flat when it's finished.

C Turn the pieces so that the fabric now has right sides together and the raw edges are sandwiched in between the two layers of fabric.

Pin another seam, this time enclosing the raw edges inside the seam. Stitch with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance.

Press seam allowance flat to one side. The direction will depend on where the seam is located on the garment, although generally seams are pressed to the back.

French seams on curved seams

You can definitely use French seams on curves, you just need to make sure you have trimmed down the seam well. Press the seam well and work in small sections when pressing and pinning. For example, when going around an armhole, press a section and then pin, rather than trying to press the whole thing at once. A pressing ham can help with this, or a sleeve board if you have one.

When sewing the curve, you will need to go nice and slow and regularly check that you haven't created any puckering. If you do accidentally end up with a pucker or two, it's not the end of the world. Simply unpick the stitches either side of the puckering (about 2-3cm either side) to release the puckers. Give the section a good press to make sure it's all sitting nice and flat and then stitch again.

Would you like to give French seams a go?

You can try this technique by sewing the Rushcutter dress (View B). You can even learn how to do French seams on in-seam pockets as pictured in this email (which has to be one of the most satisfying sewing techniques of all time).

We hope that after today's newsletter you will know exactly what you need to do to incorporate French seams into your next make!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

  • How to add seam allowance to a pattern. Tutorial can be found here.

  • The Rushcutter dress pattern can be found here.

  • How to sew in-seam pockets with French seams. Tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

What you’ve been making

Neale jumpsuit made by @sewingwithkate

More posts in the series

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