Emily ITF

July 11, 2021

Flynn jacket

ISSUE 71 - Moving pockets on the Flynn jacket

Emily ITF

July 11, 2021

Flynn jacket

THE Q & A SERIES

MOVING POCKETS ON THE FLYNN JACKET

Hi there,

I've purchased the Flynn Jacket pattern but being 5' 2" tall I'm concerned that the pockets are going to be too low for me.

Do you have a suggestion as to how I can make them higher?

Would appreciate your help.

Steph

Hi Steph,

Thank you for getting in touch.

I am pleased to hear you will be making the Flynn jacket!

I would suggest shortening the jacket all together - this will bring the pockets up to the position you need them. The jacket was designed for a height of 5'7" - so you might want to take 2" or so out of the length. I'd hold the collar / hem piece up to your body to work out the length you would like the jacket to be.

There are a couple of other reasons why you might also want to do this adjustment to the Flynn jacket:

You might be 170cm (5'7") but have a shorter torso and longer legs than the pattern was designed for
You may prefer more of a cropped style than the original design

THE FIT OF THE FLYNN

The Flynn jacket is designed to finish at the top of the thighs (and just below your bum at the back). Due to the design of the hem band and curved front panel, you can’t just simply cut length off the bottom of the jacket pattern as it will change the proportions of the jacket. Instead, you need to take length out from the middle of the pattern pieces, so that the proportions remain intact, and today that is what I am going to show you how to do!

As is becoming quite common with my patterns, the Flynn jacket has some very unique panel lines. This means that making alterations to the pattern is slightly different to what you would need to do with a straight cut jacket. It’s not difficult at all, and the principle is the same, there is just a few extra steps you have to do.

As the Flynn jacket and Hove jacket have style lines in common, you can use this tutorial for shortening the Hove jacket too.

GETTING STARTED

STEP 1

The pieces you will need for this adjustment are the FRONT HEM FACING [5], FRONT [1] and BACK [2] (or the coordinating pattern pieces for View B). You can use the actual pattern pieces, or trace a copy if you would prefer to keep the original pieces intact.

STEP 2

You will need to work out how much length you would like to remove from the pattern. You can do this by looking at your toile / muslin (for more details on making a toile / muslin look at this post from the Rushcutter sew-along), or holding the pattern pieces up to your body and getting an idea of where they will sit on your body.

If you would like to remove any more than 7.5cm (3in), I’d suggest taking 5cm - 7.5cm (2in - 3in) from the mid-section of the pattern (where the LENGTHEN / SHORTEN lines are) and then removing the remainder from the hem band section so that you don't alter the proportions of the jacket too much.

A Cut through the 'LENGTHEN / SHORTEN' line on the FRONT HEM FACING [5], FRONT [1] and BACK [2].

B Measuring up from the cut line, mark a horizontal line on each pattern piece, the distance of the amount of length you would like to remove. In the example, you can see the red line is 5cm (2in) above the cut line and the shaded section shows the amount of length that will be removed from the pattern piece.

STEP 3
A Move the lower part of each pattern piece up to the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline to ensure that you line the pieces up correctly.

B Glue or tape in place.

STEP 4
A Re-draw the seam lines with smooth lines over the adjustment. You will notice that in some cases you will be needing to add a little bit on to create the line of best fit, while in other cases you will need to shave a bit off. This will even out as you go around the pattern.

B When marking a line over the area that has been altered, there might be a large gap between the two sides of the line. In this case - split the difference by marking a point in the centre of the area and drawing the line across this point. You can choose to trace the pattern on to fresh pattern paper or tape on small pieces of paper / masking tape where you need to fill a small gap to complete the seam line.

Cut off any excess paper that is outside of the new lines.

STEP 5
Check all seams are the correct length by "walking" the pattern pieces, as if you were sewing them together. For more details on how to do this, check out this tutorial.

Transfer / re-draw any notches that have been misplaced. Due to the shape of the pieces, some notches may not line up due to the different points the alteration was made. After checking that the seam is the correct length, transfer one notch to the other piece (and cross out the notch that is no longer in the correct position).

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

The Flynn Jacket pattern - can be found here.

P.S. Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint wrap top made by @sheralcreates

Peppermint jumpsuit made by @briana_sews

Peppermint wide leg pants made by @russhemade

ISSUE 70 - Alternative seam finishes

Emily ITF

July 4, 2021

Hello,

I would like to sew the Ruffle Sleeve top but without french seams.

How many centimetres do I have to consider for side seams and the rest?

Thank you very much,

Monica

Hi Monica,

I am pleased to hear you are planning to make the Ruffle sleeve top!

The seam allowances on the pattern are 1.2cm (1/2in), which means you can leave them as they are and just sew a regular seam with a 1.2cm seam allowance, rather than two seams of 6mm (1/4in) which make up the French seam. You can then finish the seam allowance with overlocking or a zig-zag stitch.

If you were working on a different pattern and wanted to alternate seams that didn't need the same seam allowance, you can add or remove the required amount. For example, if you have a pattern that has 1cm (3/8in) seam allowances and you want to sew it with French seams, you can add 2mm to the edge of each seam. Alternatively, you could sew the French seams with smaller seams (5mm), although keep in mind sewing with this small of a seam allowance can be difficult.

If you would like to see some of our past posts about seam allowance, you can find them here:

Happy sewing,

Emily

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

The Ruffle Sleeve top pattern - can be found here.

P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint wrap top made by @dabbamotodesigns

ISSUE 69 - Reducing volume - The Rushcutter dress

Emily ITF

June 27, 2021

Rushcutter dress

Hello,

I have wanted to make Rushcutter for a long time but hesitate because of my narrow hips. In US sizes I am a 4 - 6, in UK sizes a 10 hips 35" / 88.9 cm. How could I lessen the fullness below the waist especially at the front? Too much fullness below doesn't convey the look of the design.

Thank you,

Mary

- Bend, United States

Hi Mary,

I am so pleased you would like to give the Rushcutter pattern a go!

To get started, take the FRONT [1], BACK [2] and SIDE PANEL [3] pieces. Remember to trace a copy of the pattern if you would like to return to the original. You will also need to alter the SIDE POCKET [6] as this attaches to the SIDE PANEL [3].

REDUCE VOLUME

STEP 1
Mark the hip position on the pattern pieces with a horizontal line (perpendicular to the grainline). This doesn't need to be exact. You can find this point by holding the pattern up to your body and marking it. Start with the SIDE PANEL [3] as that will be the easiest to position on your body. Use this hip line to mark onto the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] pieces.

Consider how much volume you would like to remove from each panel piece. As you said in your question, you may choose to remove more volume from the front than the back. As you can see on the pattern pieces, there is more volume at the hem of the front piece.

When you know how much you would like to remove at the hem point on each seam, mark the amount on the hem. Join this point to the original stitch line. Join with a gentle curve so that you don't end up with a point in your seam. As you can see, this is above the hip line. The pattern has a lot of ease at the waist, so you can afford to lose some fullness above the hip line, and allows for a nice smooth transition from the original stitch line to the new stitch line.

STEP 2
You could just smooth out the lines (more on that below), add seam allowance back on and cut off the excess paper, but I'd suggest using the slash and spread technique so that you don't lose your notches. This is also a handy technique that may help you in the future, if reducing volume is a common alteration for you.

For the example, I have made the alteration to the SIDE PANEL [3], as that's the one we'll need for altering the pocket. The method will be the same for the FRONT [1] and BACK [2].

a Cut up the lines marked in STEP 1, until you reach the stitch line. Stop 1-2mm from the stitch line.

b Cut into the seam allowance towards the points you stopped cutting. Stop 1-2mm from the end of the cut line. This will create a small hinge of paper.

STEP 3
a Reduce the volume in the lower section of the piece by rotating the cut sections to overlap the main part of the pattern. Have a play with how much you would like to remove. I'd suggest not going beyond a straight shape (you don't want the piece to become tapered). If you would like to remove exactly the amount you marked in STEP 1, swing the side pieces until the stitch line meets the cut line underneath. Once you are happy with the shape of the new piece, tape in place.

b You can mark in new smooth lines on the pattern piece, or trace onto a new piece of paper - whichever you prefer. If tracing, remember to transfer all notches and pattern markings. Where the hinge of paper is, mark the line as a nice smooth and gradual curve.

Repeat process for the FRONT [1] and BACK [2]. Check that the notches line up by walking the patterns together (more on that here).

ALTER POCKET

STEP 4
a Place the SIDE POCKET [6] on the SIDE PANEL [3]. The pocket is 5mm (1/4in) wider at either end on the original pattern - this gives it some shape at the top of the pocket. Mark two points 5mm (1/4in) from the stitch line at the top of the pocket (not the folded section - that is the hem).

b Draw in the new stitch line on the SIDE POCKET [6] by tracing the stitch line from the pattern underneath and joining to the points marked in part a.

c Add seam allowance to the new pocket seams (1.2cm / 1/2in). Transfer notches from the pattern underneath to the new SIDE POCKET [6].

STEP 5
a Fold down the top hem allowance on the SIDE POCKET [6], as if it has been sewn.

b With the hem allowance still folded back, cut along the new pocket edge on each side. This will create the shaping required on the top hem allowance.

c Unfold hem and mark notches at the fold line

And that's it!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Checking patterns - curved seams - can be found here.

sign-up to receive the weekly q&A in your inbox

What you’ve been making

Peppermint wrap top made by @rose_tinted_living

Peppermint ruffle sleeve top made by @weliketocraft

ISSUE 68 - New things for In the Folds - Part 2

Emily ITF

June 20, 2021

We received a lot of lovely emails in response to our last email about our new offering (that will be coming soon) and a couple of questions. I thought I'd put those questions and answers together in today's email and then get back to regular content next week.

THE Q & A SERIES

FUTURE OF THE Q&A SERIES EMAILS

Hi!
I don't have a specific question, I just want to tell you that your Ask-A-Question e-mails have been a delight and a joy. Since I started working I don't have so much time for... me!

Just reading your e-mails and looking at your beautiful curated photos with clean lines (and perfectly placed contrasting bias bound insides of the garment) makes me happy :)

Thank you so much and I hope you'll keep this e-mails even with your new business scheme of paid content.

Ana
- Osijek, Croatia

Hi Ana,

Thank you for the lovely email. I am so pleased to hear you are able to get some "me time" by sitting down to read these emails each week.

The Q&A series emails will definitely continue, even with the shift of our business model. It has always been important to me to provide free and accessible content and I have found this email series to be the best way to do that. Writing these emails (and receiving your lovely responses) is, and will continue to be, a highlight of my week.

I know that many of you don't have the time or resources to consider signing up to our new content offering, and that is okay. We will continue to serve you with our weekly email content and you can sit down to enjoy it, whenever you can squeeze it in. We still want you to be here to come along for the ride, in whatever capacity suits you.

THE Q & A SERIES

PATTERNS AS STAND-ALONE PRODUCTS

So excited for you for you plans for the subscription, but can I put in a little plea for those of us that just want to buy the patterns to be able to do so?

I really love your patterns but I'm not really in the market for a regular subscription and am skilled enough to mostly just be able to work things out on an ad hoc basis. I often think the market for intermediate level sewing is a little underserved, everything is focused on beginners. I do understand why, there are a lot more beginners than intermediate sewers, and they need more help, but it's frustrating nonetheless.

I wish you all the best with this, but I hope there will be an option for me to support you in future!

Franca
- Edinburgh, UK

Hi Franca,

Sorry I didn't mention this in the email - I probably should have as I think this will be a common question. Patterns will definitely still be available as stand alone products. New patterns will be released in the subscription, but will then be available for purchase individually at a later date. I haven't got the final details on how it will work just yet, but please know I want as many people as possible to sew my patterns and learn from my resources, so that means having them available inside and outside of the subscription model.

Happy sewing,

Emily

P.S. Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

sign-up to receive the weekly q&A in your inbox

ISSUE 68 - New things for In the Folds

Emily ITF

June 13, 2021

Well this is not really a question, I just love your patterns and wish there were more!

Lola
- Buenos Aires, Argentina

Hi Lola,

Thank you for your lovely message, and although it's not really a question, I thought it would be a good opportunity to let you know what we've been working on behind the scenes here at In the Folds.

You may have noticed that it’s been a (long) while since we released a new pattern. That is because we are changing the structure of our business model. This has been a long time in the works and not something I had planned to do, but over time it just became something that made sense for us.⁠
⁠
In October 2019, I started this email newsletter series. I wanted to share my knowledge with others and connect more deeply with the online sewing community. I was tired of communicating with likes and quick comments on Instagram. I wanted to form a deeper connection with those using my patterns. ⁠
⁠
I just went back and re-read the first email in the series. It reads (in part):⁠
⁠
‘Over the last few years of running In the Folds, I have struggled with the idea of sending an email newsletter. At a time when we are constantly bombarded with information from all different directions, I kept wondering what I could create that would be truly valuable to the community that I serve.⁠
⁠
I wanted to create something that you will look forward to receiving, something that will encourage you to sit down with a cup of tea and take it all in, not another piece of content that will interrupt your day, but something that will inspire and encourage you on your handmade journey.⁠
⁠
The format I settled on is the Q & A series, an opportunity to share the questions I often receive in my inbox, with all of you. I realised that my answer to one person's question is a chance for us all to learn something new and an opportunity to continue the conversation about the many different parts of the process of making our own clothes.⁠
⁠
It is my hope that this series will take us to interesting and unexpected places…’⁠

Once I got started, I was surprised by the influx of questions - from the broad, to the very specific. With the ability to Google anything at our very fingertips, I was surprised to see how much uncertainty there was and how many questions had gone unanswered. I have made it my mission to answer as many questions as possible, freely and openly, but it did plant a seed of an idea. What if we started creating content that really focussed on skill building from the ground up? What if we built the answers into the content we were creating, so you could stop wondering and get sewing. What if we focussed on learning more skills, instead of just making more clothes? ⁠
⁠
So that’s what we have been working on... I guess the series did take us to a very unexpected place like I had hoped! ⁠
⁠
Once we launch, we will be providing subscribers with content each month that will empower you to become a more confident maker. This will come in the form of a new pattern, a pattern hack kit, a fit kit or new pattern pieces to supplement an existing pattern. We’re not about encouraging you to make a completely new garment each month, but to focus on learning new skills on an ongoing basis. It is about building your skills, confidence and your wardrobe one piece at a time. ⁠
⁠
We also hope this move will help our business become healthier. I hope that it gives us a structure to adhere to in terms of pattern releases and roll-out, but also helps us to connect more deeply with the people we are serving. We plan to send out surveys and do polls within the community so the things we are making and the content we are creating, is actually what you need - in the same way I started the Q&A series. It will allow us to be flexible and nimble.

⁠I have spent so much time over the last few years creating content for free - as it has always been important to me that my work is accessible for as many as people as possible - but I have realised that a business cannot survive without a good balance between free and paid content. I need to work on balancing things out and that is what I hope this new offering will allow us to do. To keep producing high end free content, as well as offer an option for those who would like to learn more from us.

You may have read in our last email that we will be starting to work on expanding our size range. Unfortunately the first issues of our subscription will be released in our current size range (up to a 139cm / 55in hip). This is for a couple of reasons:⁠
⁠
I started work on this new offering over a year ago (I am a snail when it comes to producing new things) and at that time I didn’t yet have plans to expand the size range. ⁠

Although I am really excited to expand our size range and have a clear goal in mind of what size expansion means to In the Folds, we need the income from the subscription to invest in expanding our size range. I want to put the same thought, love and care into the new size range that I put into the original size range. To make this happen I will be investing in working with experts, a new patternmaker and potentially investing in upskilling - depending on the route we decide to go to create the new patterns. ⁠
⁠
I apologise if this is disappointing to hear. I know it will exclude some of you. Please just know that it is front and centre of our minds as we move forward.

We are so excited to show you what we have been working on and we hope that you'll come along with us on this new chapter!

Happy sewing,

Emily

P.S. Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

sign-up to receive the weekly q&A in your inbox

ISSUE 67 - Extending the In the Folds size offering

Emily ITF

June 6, 2021

Hi Emily!

I’m just so excited to have found you! I love your designs and the simplicity with fantastic, rich details your patterns offer. I didn’t know there was a movement in the direction of our clothing being cared for and intended to be worn for years. I just love that and support it 100%.

Now, to the ask...I want to ask you to please, please consider expanding your size offerings. I am outside of your largest size, but feel like I am close enough to it that I can extrapolate a couple sizes out for myself. All the seam lines will make it easier! I am about a size 5x/32-34 in the US and I don’t like to feel excluded from having the very designs/looks I search the Internet for. Maybe we are a bit chubbier over here in the US? We want to be awesome in your patterns, too! I belong to many curvy sewing groups and know you have a whole lot of large ladies that would love to purchase your patterns.

Maybe to help convince you, I’ll send a picture of my make of your awesome design adorning my beautiful outsized body!

Sincerely,
Phyllis

Hi Phyllis,

Thank you for your lovely email. I am pleased you found my website too and that the mission behind the brand resonates with your values.

Let me start out by aplogising. I am sorry that my current size offering excludes you from being able to use my patterns. This is not okay and is definitely something I am actively rectifying behind the scenes.

I would love to see a photo of you in one of my patterns, but it's definitely not required to convince me to expand my size chart. I already know it's the right thing for In the Folds to do and something that I am excited about working on. I hope to encourage as many makers as possible to make clothes they will wear, love and cherish, and to do that means we need to add to our size offerings. I am sorry that for the time being this means you having to go to the trouble of grading up one of my patterns yourself to make it work. This is a lot of work that you shouldn't have to do yourself.

I don't have a set timeline in place just yet, or the specifics of the new size chart, but I will announce this info in my newsletter as soon as I have a better idea of the plan.

In the meantime, while I get my act together, I'd strongly suggest checking out Muna and Broad patterns, if you haven't already. They have a gorgeous aesthetic and make patterns from a 41.5" - 71.5" hip (105cm - 182cm).

Thanks again for reaching out and letting me know what you'd like to see from In the Folds. I feel very lucky to be a part of this incredible community.

I can't wait for you (and many others) to be able to enjoy my patterns.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Muna and Broad patterns can be found here.

P.S. Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

sign-up to receive the weekly q&A in your inbox

What you’ve been making

Peppermint wrap top made by @elliethewelli

Acton dress made by @hasbeens.and.handmade

ISSUE 66 - Seam allowances - A follow-up

Emily ITF

May 30, 2021

Hello,

I read your article about seam allowances and have a follow up question. Since there are so many new indie pattern designers there is the need to pay special attention to the main part of the garment seam allowance. They are all over the place! Some patterns stick to the standard 5/8'' and I have some that are as small as 1cm.

How do you determine that measurement and why such a drastic difference in so many companies?

Thanks!
Lorie

Hi Lorie,

Thank you for getting in touch and your follow-up to the post we wrote about seam allowances.

WHY YOU HAVE DIFFERENT SEAM ALLOWANCES

1. The location of the seam. For example, larger seam allowances are normally required for the centre back and side seams of a garment. This provides strength as well as space for closures, such as zips.

Smaller seam allowances are required for curved seams such as armholes and necklines, as sewing a curve with a large seam allowance can lead to inaccuracies and the fabric puckering.

2. The other thing we consider when selecting seam allowances is the recommended fabric for a garment, and how we suggest sewists finish the seams in the particular pattern. For example, if you are making a silk chiffon top, it is best to use a narrow seam allowance, so you are not left with bulky seams that show through the fabric on the right side. A silk chiffon top is a delicate piece of clothing, that is not worn everyday and is normally hand washed, so it can afford to have smaller seam allowances. If you are making a pair of pants or a coat, you need seams that are stronger (particularly in places where tension is put on the seams - such as the crotch of pants) and therefore need a seam allowance that is wider than what you would use for a chiffon top.

IN THE FOLDS SEAM ALLOWANCES

In saying that, we have specific seam allowances we use here at In the Folds so that there is consistency between our patterns. They are:

Main seams (shoulder seams, side seams etc.) - 1.2cm (1/2in)
Armholes and sleeve caps - 1.2cm (1/2in)
Necklines and armholes finished with facings / binding, pocket bag edges - 1cm (3/8in)
Centre back seam with a zip - 2cm (3/4in)
Hem allowance will range and will depend on the pattern

As you can see, when using one of our patterns, the majority of seams will be 1.2cm (1/2in) and when you get to finishing armholes and necklines, our seam allowances reduce to 1cm (3/8in).

DIFFERING SEAM ALLOWANCE BETWEEN DESIGNERS

For the second part of your question, I'd say the range of differing seam allowances between designers comes down to factors such as the location of designers and personal preferences. What is preferred and taught can also change over time, so this may also lead to the differences. There is not consistency in fashion education between countries, so many patternmakers are likely just using the seam allowances they were taught. Other designers, who may not have studied fashion, may have chosen the seam allowances they like to use in their own projects.

I finished my fashion and textiles degree 10 years ago and recently started teaching first year patternmaking at the same university I went to. I was surprised to see that some of the preferred seam allowances had changed in that time. When I was taught, we used a range of seam allowances and their use depended on the seam. Now, we are teaching students to use 1.2cm (1/2in) for all seams, except for armholes / necklines that will be faced or bagged out, and then it reduces to 6mm (1/4in). Neither method is incorrect, it is just a different approach. This is the same when you compare seam allowances between companies. Some companies favour the more industrial seam allowances - such as Style Arc or Tessuti. Other companies will be more generous with their seam allowances as they may think it's more beginner friendly.

When I started In the Folds I planned to use 6mm (1/4in) seam allowance for necklines and armholes that would be faced / bound, like I had been taught at university. The pattern testers did not like this! So I decided to increase it to 1cm (3/8in) as I thought it would be less daunting for makers, and for those that want it to be 6mm (1/4in), they can always trim it back.

WHEN SEAM ALLOWANCE VARIES

If you are worried about mixing up seam allowances between patterns, I'd suggest looking at the pattern or instructions to see if you can work out the way seam allowances have been added. Write it on a post-it and stick it to your machine while you sew the garment. This way you can just relax into it, without feeling like you need to check the seam allowance on every step. For example, if using one of our patterns, I'd suggest writing - 'Main seams 1.2cm (1/2in), bagged out areas 1cm (3/8in).' I'd also suggest only writing the measurement format you use - for example, I work in centimetres, so I would not write the inches measurement on my post-it. When you're done, you can stick it to the pattern so that you have it ready to go the next time you use the pattern.

I hope that helps!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

The Q&A series - Sewing seam allowance - can be found here.

sign-up to receive the weekly q&A in your inbox

What you’ve been making

Peppermint Ruffle sleeve top made by @claireelainehandmade

ISSUE 65 - Fitting the Darlow pants

Emily ITF

May 23, 2021

darlow pants

Hello there!

I bought the Darlow pants pattern a few months ago, because I love how the panels look. And I have really enjoyed making a toile. Your instructions are so good and I appreciate the thoughtfulness that went into the design and all the details.

For these reasons, I really want them to fit! However, I seem to be in between sizes G and H. Size G fits fairly well around my hips but I can’t quite get the waist to close, it’s just a bit too tight, where as size H is just a little too big around the waist, hips, crotch. I’ve made both sizes out of muslin. I’m not sure where to go from here. Would you have any advise? My sewing skills are a little beyond for beginner, but not much more!

Many thanks in advance for any feedback!

All the best from Toronto, Canada!

Florencia

Hi Florencia,

I am so pleased you are making the Darlow pants and have enjoyed working with the pattern so far!

You're right, the Darlow pants are not a regular pattern, so need to be altered in a slightly different way.

STEP 1
If your hip measurement is one size larger than your waist, you can choose to only make alterations to the front leg piece - as illustrated.

Take the FRONT LEG [5] pattern piece that corresponds with your hip measurement.

Mark two lines that cut through the 'yoke' section of the FRONT LEG, being careful to avoid notches.

STEP 2
Use the 'cut and spread' technique* to alter the FRONT LEG [5] piece. To do this, cut in from the top of each line marked in STEP 1 and stop when you get to the seam allowance line. Cut in to the seam allowance from the other side of the line, leaving a small "hinge" that you can use to spread the pattern.

*For more detail on the cut and spread technique, see this tutorial.

STEP 3
In this case of the example, we are adding 5cm (2in) total from the top edge of the FRONT LEG [5] which we refer to as the 'yoke' of the pants. This equates to 2.5cm (1in) added to each piece (as the piece is cut as a pair). The alteration will be distributed through 2 points (the two lines marked in STEP 1) - so 1.2cm (½in) will be added at each point. Tape some paper on one side of each cut line. Mark the amount you will be adding on the piece of paper and rotate the cut piece until the edge lines up with the piece marked. Tape or glue in place.

Re-draw the seam lines with a nice smooth curve.

Mark the amount you will be removing from each point, on one side of the cut line.

You will now need to use the waistband pieces from the pattern size that is one size larger than the leg pieces. Walk the waistband pieces into the top of the FRONT LEG [5] to relocate the notches.

If you would like more info on this particular technique, or any adjustments for the Darlow pants pattern, take a look at the Darlow pants Fit Kit.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

The Darlow pants pattern can be found here.
Adding volume to a pattern - tutorial can be found here.
Darlow pants Fit Kit can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

ISSUE 64 - Finishing transparent fabrics

Emily ITF

May 16, 2021

Hi there,

I’m making your Ruffle Sleeve top and have chosen a more transparent fabric. Instead of sewing it with the facing, is there a better method?

Thank you!
Juliet

Hi Juliet,

Thanks for your question! I think this is a problem a lot of people come across. It's great to start thinking about finishing options before you start cutting and sewing your fabric!

There are a few options you could use for the Ruffle sleeve top instead of a facing:

BINDING THE NECKLINE

You may like to finish it with blind binding - a binding that is stitched on the inside. Have a look at our how to sew binding tutorial on the blog. It is likely the fabric will appear darker in this area if you're using a transparent fabric, but it should look like a neat small line along the neckline, rather than being able to see the facing line through the top.

LINING THE TOP

Another option is to cut two of the front and back pieces so that you can line the body pieces of the top. This would make it less transparent and give an even finish of transparency on the front and back. For the lining pieces - cut 2cm from the hem so that it is shorter than the outer layer of fabric. Remember with this option, the sleeve would still be transparent.

For sewing:

STEP 1
Sew the shoulders and side seams on both the outer and the lining pieces.

STEP 2
At the neckline, place the right sides together of the lining and the outer layer and pin - using the shoulder seams as a guide. Stitch with the neckline 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance.

STEP 3
Grade the seam allowance - particularly focusing on the point at the centre front. Clip into the seam allowance around the curve of the back neck.

STEP 4
Use your fingers to press the seam allowance towards the lining and understitch around the neckline (this will help the lining remain on the inside of the top).

Turn the lining to the inside of the top and give it a good press.

STEP 5
At the armholes, baste (sew using a long stitch) the two layers together so you can treat them as one when attaching to the sleeve. Attach the sleeve following the instructions from the pattern, remember to treat the outer (long pieces) as the right side when attaching the sleeve.

STEP 6
Finish the hem of the outer top and lining separately. The lining will sit 2cm (¾in) shorter than the outer layer.

I hope this has given you some food for thought and you are now ready to get started on your Ruffle sleeve top.

Happy sewing!

Alys

resources mentioned in this issue

The Ruffle sleeve top pattern - can be found here.
How to sew binding - tutorial can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Hacked Peppermint wrap top made by @carnivalandcrown

Peppermint wide leg pants made by @latelierdalil

Peppermint jumpsuit made by @_handmaking_a

ISSUE 63 - Changing the Rushcutter zip to patterns

Emily ITF

May 9, 2021

Rushcutter dress

Hi Emily

A question about the Rushcutter dress pattern: I like the idea of long sleeves, button-up yoke and in-seam pockets, which is essentially a mash-up of views A and B. I haven't yet purchased the pattern and, before I do, would like to know whether these adjustments are achievable. I am comfortable at level 4 degrees of difficulty.

Many thanks,

Denise

Hi Denise,

Thank you very much for getting in touch.

I love the idea of a pattern mash up between the two versions of The Rushcutter.

A LITTLE BIT ABOUT IN THE FOLDS PATTERNS

If you have used the Rushcutter pattern, you will know that both stitching line and cutting lines are marked on the pattern.

WHY IS THE STITCHING LINE MARKED?

When I first decided to start creating sewing patterns for home sewers, one of the first decisions I made, before I even started sketching, was that I wanted to create patterns that would help sewers develop their skills, in both sewing and pattern making.

By including the stitching lines on each pattern piece, it makes it much easier to understand how the pattern was originally made, but also allows for easy adjustments and 'hacking' to the pattern (as all pattern alterations should be done without seam allowance added to the pattern).

In the image you can see that the stitching line is marked with a red line, while the cutting line (outside edge of the pattern) is marked with a thick black line. If you wanted to make changes to this particular pattern piece, you could simply cut along the stitch line to remove the seam allowance, and the piece would be ready to be altered.

UNDERSTAND YOUR PATTERN

Before making any adjustments to a pattern, I always suggest having a good idea of how the pattern works and fits in its original design.

For this example, have a look at how the button placket works on View B, before adding it to View A. This is a photo of how it looks when it is finished, and below you can see how the pattern piece works.

THE BUTTON PLACKET

As you can see, the button placket is made up of three sections that fold to create the button placket. The first (closest to the centre back) is 1cm (⅜in) from the centre back. This is the first fold line. The next line is 2cm (¾in) from the first fold line and is the second fold line (the buttons and buttonholes will be placed between these two lines). The third line is 1cm (⅜in) from the second fold line and is the edge of the pattern piece.

When the piece is cut, the first fold line is folded and pressed towards the centre back.

The second fold line is folded and pressed, enclosing the raw edge inside, creating a button placket.

To finish, the buttons and button holes are placed on the centre back line.

MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT

To make the change on your pattern:

STEP 1
Take the 'UPPER BODICE' pattern piece from View B, and cut along the centre back line, removing the placket from the pattern.

If you would like to keep the pattern intact, simply trace a copy of the placket section onto a seperate piece of paper.

STEP 2
Now that you have removed the placket, you can get your sleeve pattern (from View A) ready.

ATTACH PLACKET TO SLEEVE

You will be placing the right edge of the placket onto the centre back of the sleeve pattern (the stitch line).

STEP 3
Line the placket up with the centre back of the sleeve pattern and tape or glue in place.

You will cut the seam allowance off the back piece so that you can cut the lower back piece on the fold (you no longer need the seam allowance required for the zip).

And that's it... Your Rushcutter is ready for buttons instead of a zip!

IF YOU DON’T HAVE THE PLACKET PIECE FROM VIEW B

If you have already printed your pattern, and then decided to change from zip to buttons, and don't have the pattern pieces from View B, do not worry! It is super simple to create the placket piece, with the help of a pencil and a ruler.

REMOVE THE SEAM ALLOWANCE

STEP 1
Take your sleeve pattern and remove the seam allowance from the centre back seam (by cutting along the stitch line marked on the pattern).

STEP 2
Take a small piece of pattern paper, and tape it to the centre back of the pattern, creating space for your placket.

CREATE THE PLACKET

STEP 3
a Draw a line 1cm (⅜in) from the centre back, running parallel to the centre back.

b Drawing a second line, 2cm (¾in) from the first.

c The final line will be drawn 1cm (⅜in) from the second line.

COMPLETE THE PLACKET SHAPE

STEP 4
Extend the top and bottom edges of the sleeve pattern to complete the placket shape.

Cut off any excess paper.

ADD PATTERN MARKINGS

Complete the placket by adding button / buttonhole placement markings.

And you are ready to sew!

Happy sewing!

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

The Rushcutter dress pattern - can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint button up dress made by @capedpenguin

Hacked Peppermint peplum top made by @freya_alderson

Peppermint everyday dress made by @i.hope.sew

ISSUE 62 - Sewing seam allowance

Emily ITF

May 2, 2021

Hello!

I’m wondering if you could answer a question for me? I’m currently making the Peppermint Ruffle Sleeve top (beginner sewer!) and am not sure if I need to mark the seam allowances on my fabric before removing the pattern pieces?! I’m not quite sure how to do that through the paper? Or know if it’s necessary?! Any advice would be much appreciated!

Many thanks,
Sophie

Some exciting news

Before I get started answering this week's question, I just wanted to know that we have some exciting news here at In the Folds. I now have a very talented and amazing assistant that works with me one day a week.

Alys is a patternmaker with a tonne of experience and is also a sewing teacher (check out her business here if you are in Sydney and interested in sewing or patternmaking classes). So basically the most perfect person for the job! She has been assisting me with all aspects of the business since she got started and will now be helping me tackle some of the questions that have been submitted by the community. Over to you Alys!

Hi Sophie,

Great question!

You don’t need to draw the seam allowance onto each pattern, however it is important to know what the seam allowance should be and a method to keep your stitching at the right distance from the edge!

HOW TO USE A SEWING MACHINE AS A GUIDE FOR SEAM ALLOWANCE

One of the quickest ways to make sure you're sewing the right seam allowance is to use your machine as a guide to know how wide you are stitching.

Have a look on your machine, underneath the needle. Machines are often marked with engraved or drawn lines, these can be used as a guide to stitch a certain seam allowance. Align the edge of the fabric to the appropriate line on the machine. If you are unsure of the distance, use a tape measure and measure the distance from your needle to the line.

Make sure to keep checking the edge of the fabric against the guide parallel to where the needle is stitching.

If you have an old sewing machine, you can stick on some masking tape and mark guidelines on the tape.

SEAM ALLOWANCE ON PATTERNS

In the folds patterns always have the seam allowance marked onto each pattern in a light grey. We also explain at each section, in the sewing instructions, the amount of seam allowance to sew. Other patterns companies may write on the pattern and instructions what the general seam allowance is and won’t mark the seam allowance on the pattern.

It is always a good idea to check that the pattern you are using has seam allowance included and to know what the seam allowance is for each seam.

WHY THERE ARE DIFFERENT SEAM ALLOWANCES

Sometimes you’ll come across - ‘Xcm seam allowance unless indicated / marked otherwise.’ In these situations, it will usually be explained in the sewing instructions when the seam allowance varies. Depending on the area of the pattern you are sewing, it is often useful to have a smaller or larger seam allowance.

For curves there is often a smaller seam allowance, to allow for the seam allowance to sit flatter and therefore create a smoother appearance once it is sewn.
When you are turning pieces inside out, a small seam allowance may be used to avoid bulk and again create a smoother finish.
Different seams require different seam allowances to help you sew them. For example flat fell and french seam require you to do 2 steps whilst sewing and the seam allowance determines how wide the finished seam or topstitching is.
Different fabrics may require a variation - if a fabric is likely to fray you may want to allow more seam allowance.
For alterations - often in tailored pieces they allow extra seam allowance for future alterations.

WAYS TO MARK SEAM ALLOWANCE

If you do want to mark the seam allowance there are a few techniques you can use -

Cut notches (this is a small snip into the edge of the fabric) on your stitch line. Make sure your snips are less than 5mm long so they are not visible from the outside.
Use chalk and a ruler to draw on the stitch line. You can also use a pattern master which has a guide for varying widths.
Erasable pens - pens such as Frixion allow you to draw onto the fabric and then the marks disappear with steam. Again using a ruler or pattern master will help with this method.

If you’d like to hear more about different methods - Love to Sew podcast have recently released a great episode about all things marking tools - check it out here!

I hope this helps, enjoy the start of your sewing journey!

Happy sewing,

Alys

resources mentioned in this issue

Love to Sew podcast on marking tools - listen to it here.

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What you’ve been making

Rushcutter dress made by @sewdiypatterns

Peppermint peplum top made by @newcrafthouse

ISSUE 61 - Alternate seam finishes for the wrap top

Emily ITF

April 25, 2021

Hello!

I am working on my muslin for the Wrap top and am in need of some advice. I am on Step 16 and am attempting to finish the side seam with the opening for the wrap but do not own a serger. My seam of choice is a French Seam, but it looks like I will need to use a seam method that has the sides pressed open. How do I finish this seam and not seam together the opening?

Thank you,

Lilly

Hi Lilly,

I am pleased to hear you are giving the Wrap top pattern a go!

You're right - due to the need for an opening in the side seam of the Wrap top (it's where the tie is inserted so you can wrap it around and secure the top), you will need a seam finish that allows you to press the seam open.

The seam I'd suggest is the one I call 'turn and straight stitch' - it may have a better name, but I don't know it!

One of the simplest ways to finish a seam is to turn back the raw edge of the seam allowance and stitch. This is a good finish for you to try if you don't own a serger / overlocker and don't have a zig-zag stitch on your regular sewing machine (or would like something a little cleaner).

WHAT’S THIS FINISH FOR?

This finish is suitable for almost all fabrics, although will work better on straight seams, rather than curves. This finish will work best for seams that will be pressed open. Be careful applying this finish to heavyweight fabrics as it will add bulk to the seams.

HOW TO SEW THE SEAM

Pin the pieces you are joining together with right sides together. Stitch with a 1.2cm (½in) seam allowance (or the seam allowance that your pattern specifies).

Press seam allowance open. Carefully turn under the raw edge of the seam allowance on both sides and press. Stitch close to the edge to finish (pin before stitching if you feel the need).

You could also consider trimming the seam edge with pinking shears before turning the seam back. This will prevent fraying.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Wrap top can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint ruffle sleeve top made by @netti_handmade

Peppermint vintage style skirt made by @hasbeens.and.handmade

Acton dress made by @ericajulissa_ — A cton dress made by @ericajulissa_

ISSUE 60 - Printed fabric + The Rushcutter dress

Emily ITF

April 18, 2021

Rushcutter dress

Hi Emily,

I ordered some fabric for the Rushcutter dress - a pepita jacquard. Do you think it is feasible to match the pattern ('the squares') in this fabric nicely when making this dress? If so, do you have any advice how to do that?

Thank you very much in advance!

Kind regards,

Marjon

Hi Marjon,

I'm excited to hear you are planning to make a Rushcutter dress! Unfortunately it's difficult / not possible to match prints like this on A-line dresses, due to the diagonal panel lines in the side section of the dress.

I had a play in Illustrator with a print like the one you would like to use, to see how it would look with the various grainlines, and I quite like the look of what it does, due to the nature of the print and the different directions of the pieces.

Above is an example of what the pieces might look like when sewn together. I played with the grain on the centre front panel to add a bit of interest - but if your fabric is likely to stretch due to this (it's almost on the bias), I'd suggest interfacing that piece to give it more stability.

In saying this, I would say that if you have your heart set on matching this print, I'd suggest choosing a pattern that has straight side seams / is more boxy in shape.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Rushcutter dress pattern can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint pleated summer dress made by @riksusewing

Peppermint everyday dress made by @yoursara_k

Rushcutter dress made by @julieturjomandesign

Peppermint wrap skirt made by @dirtymirrorclub

ISSUE 59 - Making your own bias binding

Emily ITF

April 11, 2021

Hi Emily,

I would love some suggestions for making my own (successful) bias tapes for binding necklines, seams, etc.

Thank you!

Ellen
Shelburne, Vermont, United States

Hi Ellen,

Bias binding is one of those things that you can do in countless different ways, so I will show you the method I use for making my own bias binding.

BIAS BINDING - AN INTRO

Bias binding is a strip of fabric cut on the bias (diagonal to the grainline / selvedge) that can be used in a variety of applications. By cutting the fabric on the bias, it gives the fabric a small amount of stretch, which makes it ideal for finishing curves and wrapping around seams (in the case of bias bound seams).

You can make your own bias binding or purchase it by the metre / yard from a store. If purchasing, you will need to buy 25mm (1in) single fold bias binding for the following applications.

If you are making it yourself (for the application method I am showing you), you will need to cut 3.5cm (1½in) strips from a square of fabric and then fold the bias binding with a bias tape maker (18mm (¾in) size) or fold and press by hand - more details on this below. The reason for the difference in width is that when buying pre-made bias binding, the width on the label refers to the width of the exposed part of the binding, rather than the width of the binding when it's pressed flat.

GETTING STARTED

Here at In the Folds, we recommend using a lightweight cotton fabric for binding, such as cotton lawn or cotton shirting. Consider using a contrasting colour or print to add a fun pop of colour to the inside of your garment. You can use the same fabric that your garment is being made from, just be careful with heavyweight or bulky fabrics.

The bias grain of the fabric runs at a 45 degree angle to the selvedges. Before cutting binding strips from a piece of fabric, ensure the fabric is square. This will ensure you cut the fabric on the true bias.

Bias binding is a great way to use up small bits of fabric leftover from other projects. Consider cutting binding when you are cutting your project and setting it aside so you have it ready to go the next time you need binding.

CUTTING BIAS BINDING

Take your square of fabric and fold along the diagonal. Press and then carefully cut along the crease.

Take one of the triangles of fabric and fold in half again and press (you can use the other one if you need more binding - otherwise set aside for next time). The cut edge of the fabric should be running along the bottom of the triangle.

Flip back one corner and line up bottom edges. Press.

Repeat on the other side.

Check that all layers are lined up neatly along the bottom edge. Mark binding width 3.5cm (1½in) with a clear ruler and chalk. Pin through all layers before cutting with scissors or rotary cutter.

Alternatively, you can just use a long ruler and rotary cutter and skip the pinning. It depends how confident you are and if your fabric will remain in place.

*If you would like narrower binding, calculate by thinking about the seam allowance on the seam you will be attaching the binding to, the amount you would like exposed on the inside of the garment, plus the amount required to fold the raw edge under. You will also need require a little wiggle room to account for the folds in the fabric. This is the reason we cut ours at 3.5cm:

1cm seam allowance to attach to the seam
1cm exposed binding on the inside
1cm seam allowance to fold back the raw edge
0.5cm "wiggle room" to account for the folds (it is always better to need to trim binding down, rather than not have enough to achieve a nice finish).

Remove pins and square off each end of the strips by cutting the binding at a right angle.

CUTTING BIAS BINDING FROM DELICATE OR SLIPPERY FABRICS

If you fabric is flimsy or prone to stretching (e.g silk chiffon / organza, viscose, rayon or a knit) I take an extra precaution, by sandwiching the fabric between two layers of paper. I use this same method for cutting garments from these types of fabrics too.

To start, take a large sheet of paper. I love dot and cross paper, and use it for everything I do, but if all you have is blank paper, that will work fine too!

Draw a line at a 45 degree angle across the page. If you are using dot and cross paper, you just need to follow the dots or the crosses diagonally to create a straight line.

If you are using a blank sheet of paper, you can either use a set square to get the correct angle, or you can draw a large square / rectangle and match the diagonals. Either diagonal will work, so take your pick.

Now you need to consider the width of the binding you would like to make.

Using your first diagonal line as a guide, draw a second line the width of your binding away from the first line. Continue drawing lines until you have enough binding (I like to cut more than I need so that I always have a bit on stand-by).

Lay your fabric on top of another sheet of paper, matching the selvedge up with the edge of the paper. If your fabric is really prone to moving (or rolling - in the case of some knits) you can pin the selvedge to the edge of the paper. Next, place your bias guidelines on top of the fabric. Again, line up the straight edge of the paper with the selvedge of the fabric.

Use weights (or whatever you have lying around) to hold the paper in position. Pin in place, along each individual bias strip.

Cut along the diagonal lines, cutting through all three layers, and when they're all done, remove the pins. This can be down with a rotary cutter to speed up the process.

Alternatively, you can use a rotary cutter if you like.

CREATING LONGER STRIPS

For longer seams you may need to join pieces of binding together.

With right sides together, align two bias pieces together at a 90-degree angle. Mark a diagonal line, joining the "corners" of the square that has been created by the overlapping binding pieces. Pin along line.

Stitch along line.

Trim seam allowance down to 6mm (¼in).

Press seam allowances open.

You can use the same method to form a loop of bias binding, if you are attaching to an armhole or neckline.

I know that some people prefer the continuous loop method of making long lengths of binding. If you are curious to see what that method is about, look here.

PRESSING BINDING

You can use your binding as is, although it does make it more manageable and much easier to sew, if you fold it before sewing.

You can do this by feeding the binding through an 18mm (¾in) size bias maker and press, or press by hand - pressing each long edge in by 1cm (⅜in). You could also try this clever way of folding binding that I saw on the By Hand London blog that involves using a pin on an ironing board that you can feed the binding through.

SEWING BINDING

If you're now feeling ready to give using your own binding a try, you can use the below tutorials for some tips on sewing bias binding to your garments.

Attaching single fold bias binding
Attaching double fold bias binding
Or if, you'd like to try out bias bound seams (pictured above), check out the Flynn jacket or Hove jacket pattern.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Nerdy sewing tips: How to make & store bias binding (without fancy gadgets) - By Hand London can be found here.
Q&A Series - Attaching single fold bias binding. Tutorial can be found here.
Q&A Series - Attaching double fold bias binding. Tutorial can be found here.
Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.
Hove jacket pattern can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Acton dress made by @denise.does — A cton dress made by @denise.does

Peppermint wrap top made by @2ducks_swimming

Peppermint wrap top made by @choicesbydan

ISSUE 58 - Getting a good fit

Emily ITF

April 4, 2021

Hi Emily,

I am several inches shorter than the average "petite" size range, but also curvy. My whole life I've had multiple issues fitting clothes that I buy off the rack, so I've finally decided to make them instead. Given my significant size range and deviations from "average", how would I go about grading a pattern to fit me? Some persistent fit problems are: the shoulder slips off just about every top I own and my trousers go WAY up my belly and land just below my bust. These issues only happen with ready to wear clothing. I just don't know where to start with grading patterns to eliminate the problems.

Shari

Hi Shari,

It sounds like sewing your own clothes is a great solution to the problems you are having with ready to wear! I am sure it will be very liberating for you to be able to make your own clothes and not deal with those frustrating issues anymore.

GETTING STARTED

What I suggest you do is just start with one pattern and work on getting a really good fit, before moving onto anything else. The reason for this is that it is common to do the same alterations on all sewing patterns. Especially if you are working with the same brand of pattern. So once you know your go-to alterations, it will be much easier to start on new patterns.

If you're new to sewing, I'd suggest starting with a top, as pants can be a little trickier to fit. I'd also suggest starting with something that is not too fitted. This will give you a chance to familiarise yourself with the fitting process, before moving onto more challenging projects. If you were to try an In the Folds pattern to start with, I'd suggest the Ruffle sleeve top. It ticks the boxes for a beginner friendly project, as it's not fitted, but will give you a chance to try out a few things. It also has sleeves - another good thing to learn how to fit.

BUST ADJUSTMENT

The first thing you will need to consider when making tops is your high bust adjustment. It sounds like you may have a large bust in comparison to your shoulders (I'd say this is what is causing your shoulder straps to slip off. It sounds like you are needing to go up a size so that a top will fit your bust, but the upper section of the top no longer fits).

By choosing a size in relation to your high bust measurement, you will be getting the fit you need at the neckline and shoulders, and then can add the bust width you need by doing a full bust adjustment. This is a good post that will familiarise you with the concept and give you a range of examples: four essential bust adjustments.

CHECKING LENGTH

Before going ahead and cutting your pattern (after making the full bust adjustment), I'd suggest you then look at the length, as that sounds like it is something else that is causing issues for you with ready to wear.

You need to mark the bust line and waist line on the pattern (more info on that here: How to Find the Bust, Waist and Hip on a Sewing Pattern) and then compare this to your own body. What I suggest you do, is just wearing underwear (or tight jersey clothing), tie a thin piece of elastic around these points on your body, then take measurements between them. Record the measurements and then compare these to the pattern.

Be sure to also check the shoulder to bust measurement (to get this one, it can be handy to put on a tight t-shirt, so that you have a seam line on your shoulder to measure from). Then you are going to need to shorten the pattern in relation to your findings. If you find that your shoulder to bust is 1cm (3/8in) shorter than the pattern, then you are going to need to remove 1cm (3/8in) length from this section. You can find guidance on shortening a pattern here. Keep in mind that if you need to shorten the area above the bust on a top with a sleeve, this will also impact the sleeve and you will need to remove this same amount of length from the sleeve cap.

SELECTING THE CORRECT SIZE

For more information about sizing, I'd suggest you have a look at this post on my website: Selecting the correct size.

I hope I haven't overwhelmed you! The key to this will be just focusing on one project at a time and focusing on one fit adjustment at a time. I'd also say that making lots of toiles (rather than finished garments) will help you start to learn what you need to look for.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Ruffle sleeve top can be found here.
Four essential bust adjustments. Tutorial can be found here.
How to Find the Bust, Waist and Hip on a Sewing Pattern. Article can be found here.
How to shorten a pattern. Tutorial can be found here.
Selecting the correct size. Post can be found here.
How to (and why) make a toile. Post can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint wrap top made by @melissa.rose.creations

Peppermint jumpsuit made by @melt.stitches

Peppermint jumpsuit made by @intenselydistracted

ISSUE 57 - How to finish necklines and armholes

Emily ITF

March 28, 2021

Hi Emily,

Hello, I have just started learning how to sew and your blog has helped me tremendously. Before beginning working with patterns I have made the bodice block (which I must add is absolutely fantastic and very easy to follow). However, I have decided I wanted to try and attempt to make a top with the bodice block but am slightly confused as to how you would finish the neck of the bodice without leaving a raw edge.

Naveen

Hi Naveen,

Thank you for reaching out. I'm glad you are going to give drafting a top a go!

This is a question that highlights the difference between a pattern block and a pattern. For a pattern block, you are looking at getting a nice close fit, while a pattern is more about the design and will include wearing ease.

GOING FROM BLOCK TO PATTERN

If you'd like to know more about the difference between patterns and blocks and how to use a block to draft a pattern, I've linked some useful resources below:

For a pattern you also need to think about how you will finish the seams. Have you downloaded my e-book, The Little Book of Seam Finishes? This is a great place to start if you're trying to familiarise yourself with finishing options.

FINISHING NECKLINES AND ARMHOLES

For finishing the neckline and armhole of a top, my go-to finishes would be bias binding or creating a neck and armhole facing or an all-in one facing.

I think getting familiar with the block is a great idea, but I do think it might be worth sewing a pattern before trying to draft your own. This will allow you to familiarise yourself with the terminology and things to think about when drafting your own patterns.

If you'd like guidance on how to sew either neckline option I suggested above, the Collins top might be a good option for you, as one of these views has an all-in-one facing and the other has a bias bound neckline.

Happy sewing,

Emily

P.S. This week an interview aired on ABC RN's radio show 'Life Matters' about the online sewing moment, that I was interviewed for. If you would like to have a listen, you can find it here.

resources mentioned in this issue

What is a pattern block? Article can be found here.
How to draft a simple summer top. Tutorial can be found here.
Little book of seam finishes can be found here.
How to attach bias binding. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft an all in one facing. Tutorial can be found here.
The Collins top pattern can be found here.

P.P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.

Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint playsuit made by @danijelasews

ISSUE 56 - How to draft a straight hemline on the Hove jacket

Emily ITF

March 21, 2021

Hove jacket

Hi Emily,

I am interested in adapting the Hove front to be more like the Flynn, ie even around the hem and not so hi-lo. I can see it would be easy to redraft the hemline but how would this affect pocket length and placement?

Also - how would you line either jacket?

Many thanks,

Krystyna

Hi Krystyna,

This is a great question, and I think this would work really well!

GETTING STARTED

Above you can see the hood pattern piece from the Hove jacket and the front hem facing from the Flynn jacket.

A I have checked the pattern pieces from the Hove and Flynn against each other and as you can see, all you would need to do is extend the centre front seam and hemline with straight lines.

B To do this, attach some paper to the back of the Hove front piece, filling the gap in the hemline. Take a ruler and extend the centre front seam. Extend the side seam at the hem with a straight line, meeting the new centre front line at a right (90 degree) angle.

The only thing you will need to check is the zip length. You could have a zip that goes all the way to the bottom (I think a double ended zip could work really well), but just need to check what zip lengths are available in relation to the length of the seam.

Alter the pocket

As for the pocket, I would just be straightening it out along the bottom, so that it runs parallel to the hemline. You no longer need the shaping, and it will be fine to have it not go all the way to the hemline (in the Flynn jacket it's like this). If you were to extend it to the hem, like it is in the Hove, you'd end up with very deep pockets, so I'd suggest keeping it the same size that it is.

As for lining the jacket, I have this tutorial on my website with a few suggestions that you can find here.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

The Hove jacket pattern can be found here.
The Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.
How to line a jacket. Tutorial can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint everyday dress made by @weft.side.story

Peppermint wrap skirt made by @fabric_scraps

ISSUE 55 - What is a pattern block?

Emily ITF

March 14, 2021

Hello Emily!

Looking through the internet for tutorials about pattern making, to “brush up” my old skills, I found your lovely blog!

I am certainly going to watch your interesting instructions and ideas!

But I have a question:

(I am Dutch, so not a native speaker of your language): what does a Bodice block mean? I cannot find the translation for this term! Is a block a sort of ground pattern?

Maybe you could give me an explanation or description of what you mean by this?

Thank you very much in advance!

Francine

Hi Francine,

I am pleased to hear you came across my website! I hope you enjoy the resources I share.

That's a great question!

PATTERN BLOCKS

A pattern block is a foundation pattern that patternmakers use as a base or foundation when drafting patterns. In the US a block is referred to as a ‘sloper’ so you may see these terms used interchangeably in books and blocks, depending on where the author is from.

Patternmakers will normally have a set of pattern blocks that is likely to include:

A skirt block
A bodice block
A sleeve block
A trouser block

Patternmakers may also have a dress foundation block and a jacket block. You can also have more specialised blocks for making swimwear, underwear etc.

They will then use the blocks as a way to draft a new pattern.

Normally a block will:

Be on cardboard - so it is nice and strong and can be used over and over.
Include only a minimal amount of ease. ‘Ease’ is the difference between your body measurements and the garment measurements. Blocks will normally include enough ease to get the garment on, but not much more.
Have no design details - just darts for fitting purposes.
Not have seam allowance.

HOW TO GET YOUR OWN PATTERN BLOCK

There are a number of ways to get a pattern block / set of pattern blocks. You can:

Draft your own. I have tutorials on how to draft a skirt block and how to draft a bodice block on my website, if you’d like to give it a go.
You could purchase a set of blocks.
You could get a custom made block made.

GOING FROM BLOCK TO PATTERN

A pattern is often made using a block, but the difference is that a pattern is ready to be cut from fabric and sewn. A completed pattern will:

Be on pattern paper or cardboard - depending on your preference. For home sewing, it is most common to have patterns on paper, but if you have a pattern you keep coming back to, it may be worth transferring to cardboard for safe keeping!
Include enough ease to make the garment comfortable to wear, sit and stand in. This will depend on the style / design of the garment and your preferences.
Have design details that deviate from the block. The options here are endless. Some patterns are similar to the block and just feature a few design details such as panel lines, while some patterns drafted blocks do not resemble the block at all.
Have seam allowance.

To design a pattern from a block, there are a number of common techniques you might use. Some examples of these can be found on the In the Folds blog:

Although these tutorials will show you how to go about the techniques required, you may want to learn more about design principles before trying to apply them to patterns. A good place to start would be The Cutting Class, which has a great combination of fashion and technical content.

PATTERN BLOCKS FOR HOME SEWING

You may be wondering what you would want to do with a pattern block as a home sewist… You can use pattern blocks for drafting your own patterns, but I’d strongly suggest getting an understanding of patterns before trying this. To build up knowledge of patterns, start using patterns! There are so many great independent designers out there that are worth checking out, so this is where I suggest you start. This way you can build up your knowledge about fit, pattern markings and design, without having to do all the work of drafting a pattern from scratch (I can tell you from experience, drafting patterns takes some time!). It will also get you in the headspace of thinking about seam finishes and construction techniques, because remember, if you draft your own patterns, you won’t have an instruction booklet to go alongside it.

The other thing you might use blocks for is to check what fitting alterations you might need to do to a purchased pattern. If you have pattern blocks that fit you well, you can then compare aspects of your blocks to patterns you have purchased to see what alterations you need to make to achieve a good fit. For example, you may check the shoulder length on your block up against a pattern to see if you need to do a broad or narrow shoulder adjustment.

I hope that sheds some light on the differences between pattern blocks and sewing patterns for you!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

How to draft a skirt block. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft a bodice block. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft a simple summer top. Tutorial can be found here.
How to create princess panels. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft an A-line skirt. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft a wrap skirt. Tutorial can be found here.
How to draft a fit and flare skirt. Tutorial can be found here.
Learn about design principles - The Cutting Class.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint wide leg pants made by @the.hemline.eclectic

Peppermint wrap skirt made by @naomihinds

ISSUE 54 - Shortening a skirt pattern

Emily ITF

March 7, 2021

Hi Emily,

This may sound like a really dumb question but I’ll ask anyway, to shorten the Peppermint Vintage-style skirt, would you recommend using the “lengthen/shorten line” or would you just take it off the hem?

I’ve made a toile of this and I want the final skirt to be quite a bit shorter (:

Thanks!

Mariana

Hi Mariana,

I am pleased to hear you are making the Vintage-style skirt!

No question is a dumb question, so no need to worry about that. It is normally best to remove lengthen from the LENGTHEN / SHORTEN line on the pattern, as this does keep the pattern in proportion.

In saying that though, if you do want to remove a lot (probably anything more than 10cm or so), I'd suggest removing some from the LENGTHEN / SHORTEN line and then the rest from the hem. The reason for this is that if you remove a lot from the middle of the skirt, you will end up with a shorter skirt with quite a lot of volume in the hem (as it will have the same hem circumference length as the original pattern) - that may or may not be what you want to achieve.

getting started

STEP 1

The pieces you will need for this adjustment are the FRONT and BACK. You can use the actual pattern pieces, or trace a copy if you would prefer to keep the original pieces intact.

using the lengthen / shorten line

STEP 2

If you would like to remove any more than 10cm (4in), I’d suggest taking 10cm from the mid-section of the pattern (where the LENGTHEN / SHORTEN lines are) and then removing the remainder from the hem band (more on this in STEP 9).

A - Cut through the 'LENGTHEN / SHORTEN' line on the FRONT.

B - Measuring up from the cut line, mark a horizontal line on each pattern piece, the distance of the amount of length you would like to remove. In the example, you can see the red line is 10cm (4in) above the cut line and the shaded section shows the amount of length that will be removed from the pattern piece.

STEP 3

A - Move the lower part of each pattern piece up to the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline to ensure that you line the pieces up correctly.

B - Glue or tape in place.

truing the side seam

STEP 4

Place the POCKET FACING pattern on top of the skirt, lining up the shape at the top.

STEP 5

A Place the POCKET BAG on top of the POCKET FACING, lining up the rounded shape of the pocket.

B True the seam - this means redrawing the side seam with a straight line from the top of the side seam to the bottom of the hem. You can tape on a piece of paper where you need to fill the gap to complete the seam line.

STEP 6

Remove the POCKET FACING and POCKET pieces and extend the FRONT pocket line toward the side seam.

Transfer / re-draw any notches that have been misplaced. (Make sure they match the back).

amending the pocket pattern

STEP 7

Lay the POCKET FACING back onto the pattern and add the same amount onto the pattern to match the side seam and new FRONT pocket line.

STEP 8

Lay the POCKET BAG back onto the pattern and add on to the pattern to meet your new side seam line.

removing more length

STEP 9

To remove more length from the skirt, mark the required amount upwards, evenly from the hem and cut away the excess.

If you do choose this option (removing length from both places), remember that you will also need to re-draft the hem facings to match with the new hemline. I have a tutorial on how to do that here.

STEP 10

Repeat for the BACK pattern piece.

finalising the pattern

You can choose to trace the patterns onto fresh pattern paper or keep them as they are. If you trace them, remember to copy all pattern markings across. This includes - grainline, notches, pleat markings and cutting instructions.

Cut off any excess paper that is outside of the new lines.

Check all seams and notches are the correct length by "walking" the pattern pieces, as if you were sewing them together. For more details on how to do this, check out this tutorial.

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

How to redraft a facing. Tutorial can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint peplum top made by @allysondykhuizen

ISSUE 53 - Starting a pattern company (Part three)

Emily ITF

February 28, 2021

Hello!

I’ve really been loving your Q&A series. I am getting ready to start my own pattern company. I would love to know the steps in the process to getting a successful pattern ready for the market. Also I am not a pattern maker and do want to make my own patterns. How do I go about finding someone to help me make sewing patterns?

Thank you,
May

Fairfax, United States

How do you make your gorgeous patterns?

Kate

Camden, UK

Hi May and Kate,

This week is part three of our little mini series of Q&A posts about the process of making an In the Folds pattern from beginning to end. If you missed part one, or two you can find them here and here.

By this stage, we’ve got everything we need to create a digital sewing pattern, so it’s time to pull all the assets together to create the pattern and the instruction booklet.

CREATING THE PATTERN

When the pattern comes back from my grader / illustrator, I format it into A4 / US letter size and A0 and add any notes etc. to the pattern. This always takes a while as I like to try to use as few pages as possible, so it’s the ultimate game of Tetris!

Next up is to start creating the instruction booklet in Adobe Indesign. I have a template I use and just work my way through it - updating it with the new pattern assets. I had a graphic designer design this for me a few years ago and I am very thankful for that, each time I use the template.

Laying out the instruction booklet can be a little overwhelming at the beginning (as my pattern booklets are normally 30+ pages), but I just break it down into chunks and work my way through page by page. To write the instructions themselves, I refer back to the instruction booklet that I sent to the illustrator and insert the illustrations.

I normally get the instructions to about 90% complete and then print a copy to go through with a highlighter and red pen. There is only so long that I can look at a document on a screen before I need to print it and I enjoy this part of the process. I always feel like I’m nearing the end when I have a paper version in my hands!

After having a read through, I go back to the documents and update all the things I found and save all the documents as PDFs so that the pattern is ready for pattern testing.

PATTERN TESTING

Pattern testing time is exciting and a little bit scary. After putting so much work into something, I am always nervous to hear what people think of it, but also relieved to start the process of getting it out into the world. I won’t go into detail about my pattern making process as I have written a post about it in the past, so if this is something that interests you, you can find the post here.

MAKE UPDATES TO THE PATTERN

Once I have received all the pattern testing feedback, it’s time to make updates to the pattern.

Although I go through the pattern with a fine tooth comb before testing, the pattern testers always have some great suggestions of things I can do to improve the pattern. Most of the time the updates are to the instructions, rather than the pattern pieces themselves. I always find it handy to bring a second monitor to my studio when I’m working on these updates, so that I can have the feedback open on one screen and the pattern open on the other and can just work through the document, one point at a time.

PROOFREADING

Once all the updates have been made to the pattern, I send the pattern and instruction booklets to an editor for proofreading.

PATTERN SHOOT

Towards the end of this process, I start thinking about shooting the pattern. I need to think about the model I am going to work with and what fabrics I am going to use for the samples.

Preparing for a shoot involves meeting with the model to take measurements, making samples in their size and then doing a fitting. I then make the final samples for the shoot.

At this point I need to think about shoot location, make-up and hair inspiration and what shoes and accessories the model will wear.

When shooting, we’re always careful to get some nice editorial photos, but to mainly concentrate on getting clear photos of the garment. My photographer and I are quite methodical - front, back, side, detail shots etc. so that I know we will have exactly what we need for the product listing.

PRODUCT LISTING

I have my website built on Shopify, so once I have the photos back from the photographer, I work on creating the product listing. Just like the instructions, I have a template I use for each pattern, so that things remain consistent. I work through the template, updating all details for the new pattern.

I package the pattern into a zip file so that I can attach it to the product listing. In the file I have:

A0 pattern
A4 / US letter size pattern
Instruction booklet
Read me file (an overview of the pattern with print details etc.)

PREPARING FOR THE SEW-ALONG

If there is going to be a sew-along for the pattern, I start thinking about what tutorials will be helpful for makers as they approach this pattern and start drafting all the posts, so that they are ready when the pattern goes live.

PREPARING FOR LAUNCH DAY

To prepare for a pattern launch, I work on Instagram posts, create a new banner for the website, and schedule an email campaign with details of the new pattern. I contact any companies that wholesale In the Folds digital patterns so that they can also get the pattern onto their website for launch day. Again, I have a template I work through that helps with this process and is easy to replicate each time.

LAUNCH DAY

When launch day finally comes around, I am always ready for a long nap! I plan to do as little as possible on launch day, as all the excitement and adrenaline normally renders me brain fried. I have all my content scheduled so I can just go through the motions and be available to answer any questions as they come in.

MORE RESOURCES

If you are considering starting a pattern company, I’d suggest learning as much as you can by listening and reading about other indie pattern designers. There are a couple of interviews you can look at on The Fold Line that might be of interest:

You can also find a number of interviews with pattern designers on the Love to Sew podcast that are well worth a listen. Like anything, it’s good to do your research and get a feel for the market, but then there is a point that you just need to get started and learn what you need to as you go.

I hope you have enjoyed this three part series about what goes into drafting and releasing an In the Folds pattern!

Happy sewing,

Emily

resources mentioned in this issue

Starting a pattern company Part one and two can be found here and here.
How to pattern test. Article can be found here.
In the Folds sew-a-longs can be found here.
Running an indie pattern company interview can be found here.
Love to sew podcast - pattern designer interviews can be found here.

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What you’ve been making

Peppermint everyday dress made by @melts.stitches

Peppermint wide leg pants made by @netty.hayes

THE Q & A SERIES

MOVING POCKETS ON THE FLYNN JACKET

THE FIT OF THE FLYNN

GETTING STARTED

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

REDUCE VOLUME

ALTER POCKET

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

THE Q & A SERIES

FUTURE OF THE Q&A SERIES EMAILS

THE Q & A SERIES

PATTERNS AS STAND-ALONE PRODUCTS

More posts in the series

More posts in the series

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

WHY YOU HAVE DIFFERENT SEAM ALLOWANCES

IN THE FOLDS SEAM ALLOWANCES

DIFFERING SEAM ALLOWANCE BETWEEN DESIGNERS

WHEN SEAM ALLOWANCE VARIES

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

BINDING THE NECKLINE

LINING THE TOP

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

A LITTLE BIT ABOUT IN THE FOLDS PATTERNS

WHY IS THE STITCHING LINE MARKED?

UNDERSTAND YOUR PATTERN

THE BUTTON PLACKET

MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT

ATTACH PLACKET TO SLEEVE

IF YOU DON’T HAVE THE PLACKET PIECE FROM VIEW B

REMOVE THE SEAM ALLOWANCE

CREATE THE PLACKET

COMPLETE THE PLACKET SHAPE

ADD PATTERN MARKINGS

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

HOW TO USE A SEWING MACHINE AS A GUIDE FOR SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAM ALLOWANCE ON PATTERNS

WHY THERE ARE DIFFERENT SEAM ALLOWANCES

WAYS TO MARK SEAM ALLOWANCE

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

WHAT’S THIS FINISH FOR?

HOW TO SEW THE SEAM

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

BIAS BINDING - AN INTRO

GETTING STARTED

CUTTING BIAS BINDING

CUTTING BIAS BINDING FROM DELICATE OR SLIPPERY FABRICS

CREATING LONGER STRIPS

PRESSING BINDING

SEWING BINDING

resources mentioned in this issue

What you’ve been making

More posts in the series

GETTING STARTED

CHECKING LENGTH