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ISSUE 143 - HOW TO SEW BIAS BINDING ON A V-NECK

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THE Q & A SERIES

How to sew bias binding on a V-neck

Hi Emily,

Great series on bias binding. I am just starting to master that. Next, I'd like to tackle a V-neck. Could you break down the steps for a V?

Thanks

Sam

Hi Sam,

Great question!

This month’s Curated by ITF pattern, the Stow dress, has a V-neck detail on the neckline. While designing the pattern, we took the time to experiment with a few different techniques to finish it because we wanted to make sure it gave a beautiful finish, and was an achievable approach.

The Stow dress has two Views. View A is a standard V-neck, while View B has a button placket at the front. We’ll show you how to finish a standard V-neck with binding in this tutorial, which is applicable to Stow dress View A.

BEFORE YOU START

We recommend using this technique to finish the neckline after sewing the shoulder seams of the garment. This will allow the garment to lay flat while adding the binding, making it easier to handle. You can then assemble the side seams afterwards.

NOTE: General In the Folds seam allowances have been included for your reference. If you have chosen different seam allowances (or are using another company's pattern), please be mindful of this.

PREPARE BIAS BINDING

Step 1

a Using a tape measure, measure around the neckline of the dress starting from the CENTRE FRONT V-neck on one side and continuing around the neckline until you reach the CENTRE FRONT again.

b  Cut a piece of bias binding about 6cm (2⅜in) longer than your neck measurement. If you are making your own binding, it needs to be 32mm (1¼in) wide. 

c  If you have made your own binding, place it right side down and press one long edge of the binding under by 1cm (⅜in). It will look like the middle image above. Commercial bias binding will look like the bottom image above.

Step 2

Fold the binding in half to find the midway point. Finger press the fold.

Unfold and pin the right side of the binding (at the midway point) to the right side of the garment at the CENTRE BACK of the neckline.

Step 3

a Pin the binding onto the neckline, carefully working your way to the shoulder seam.

Flip the dress to the front. Continue pinning the binding around the neckline until you reach the CENTRE FRONT. When you get to the V-neck point, stop pinning and mark the CENTRE FRONT line onto the binding with chalk or erasable pen and a ruler.

b Going back to the binding at the CENTRE BACK, continue pinning the rest of the binding to the neckline. Again, mark the CENTRE FRONT line on the other side of the binding with chalk or erasable pen and a ruler.

Step 4

a Remove the last couple of pins so that you can lift the binding on either side of the CENTRE FRONT. (These pins were only used so you could ensure the CENTRE FRONT line you marked was precise).

b Place the binding right sides together, matching the two lines marked. The outer long edge of the binding should still be folded up. Pin. Stitch along the marked line.

c Trim back the seam allowance close to the stitch line. Press the seam allowance open.

Step 5

Repin the binding to the neckline, lining up the seam in the binding with the CENTRE FRONT V-neck point of the dress. The binding should sit flat on the garment at this point.

Step 6

a Sew binding in place with a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance. Start at the CENTRE BACK or shoulder seam and work your way around to the CENTRE FRONT or opposite shoulder seam. Walk your stitches as you approach the CENTRE FRONT to ensure your needle lines up with the seam in the binding. Pivot to continue sewing around the neckline.

b Trim, clip and grade the seam allowance. Trim in nice and close to the point of the V at the front to minimise bulk as much as possible. Be careful not to cut through the stitching!

Step 7

Flip the binding to the right side and, using your finger to press the seam allowance towards the binding, understitch.

Start stitching about 1.2cm (½in) back from the points of the V on one side and then repeat on the other side.

Step 8

Turn the dress inside out and roll the binding to the inside. Press well and pin in place. Stitch in place close to the folded edge of the binding.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Stow dress pattern is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of February 2023. More information can be found here.

  • How to make your own bias binding - tutorial here.

  • Attaching single-fold bias binding - tutorial here.

  • Attaching double-fold bias binding - tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 142 - THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PATTERN SIZING AND READY TO WEAR

THE Q & A SERIES

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PATTERN SIZING AND READY TO WEAR

Hi, 

I purchased the Flynn Jacket pattern. I need your sizes in international sizing (XS, S, M, L, XL). Your sizing does not help in cutting these sizes.

Thanks,

A

Hi there,

I am thrilled to hear you will be giving the Flynn jacket a go!

If you have never used one of our patterns, you may have been surprised to see the size charts and realise there is no sign of numbers (apart from the measurements themselves) or international sizing, as you noted. This was a very intentional choice that I made when starting In the Folds.

WHY HAND-MADE IS DIFFERENT TO READY TO WEAR

Sewing your own clothes is very different to buying ready-to-wear clothing.

When it comes to ready-to-wear you have to pick the closest size to your body measurements and hope for the best.

This might mean the garment fits you well through the bust, but pulls a little at the hips. Or that the hips fit well, but the neckline gapes. 

When it comes to sewing your own clothes you don’t have to settle for a garment that only fits certain parts of your body. Just one of the perks of making your own clothes! You can make a garment fit your unique body measurements by grading between pattern sizes. You can then alter the length to suit you, and make other alterations too, such as a full bust adjustment or a narrow shoulder adjustment).

WHY IN THE FOLDS SIZING DOESN’T USE NUMBERS

Here’s two reasons why we don’t use numbers in our garment sizing:

1. The focus should be on YOUR body, not a standard someone else has set.

By steering clear of international sizing and standard numbered sizing, we are encouraging sewists to do the most important thing you can do before starting a project… take accurate measurements of your body!

When it comes to sewing, using your measurements (rather than the numbers next to the measurements) is really important because it will help you make a garment that fits YOU.

It also means that you can acquaint yourself with the size chart for the particular pattern brand you are using, because they are all different.

2. We will not support systems that encourage body shaming.

By using letters instead of numbers in our size chart, we aim to remove the hesitance or shame some makers may feel when looking at traditional sizing numbers on tags in stores.

This is a side to ready-to-wear fashion that we want to leave behind! We believe making garments is about making clothes that fit your unique body, not about the size you wear. And this is one way we can help you (and the fashion world at large!) achieve this.

HOW TO FIGURE OUT YOUR IN THE FOLDS SIZE

We suggest you grab a tape measure, put on some tight clothing (leggings and a tight t-shirt or singlet work well), step in front of a mirror and take your measurements.

If you’ve printed a copy of the pattern, circle the size (or sizes) your measurements align with for each point of your body. In the case of the Flynn jacket, this is your bust, waist and hips.

ALWAYS CHECK THE FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

Before selecting a size it’s always a good idea to understand how closely the garment is supposed to fit and how much ease is in each area of the pattern.

With In the Folds patterns, we always include two measurement charts in our instruction booklets. One for body measurements (which are the same across all In the Folds patterns), and the other for finished measurements chart (which changes between patterns depending on the intended fit of the design).

The finished measurements chart includes the measurements of the finished garment in specific locations, and information about the amount of ease that has been included in the pattern.

UNDERSTANDING PATTERN EASE

How much ease there is in a pattern will determine if you need to make alterations to a pattern.

For example, if your hip measurement is in a larger size than your waist measurement, you might usually need to grade between sizes. But, if you look at the amount of ease in the hips of the Flynn pattern you may choose not to grade because there is a lot of ease provided in the design.

Selecting the correct size before you begin is an important part of the sewing process and we want to support you to feel confident when doing this. We have another post about selecting the correct pattern size that you might be interested to read here.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.

  • Selecting the correct size - tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

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ISSUE 141 - HOW TO TRANSFER PATTERNS ONTO CARD

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THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO TRANSFER PATTERNS ONTO CARD

Hi Emily

Thank you so very much for doing this question and answer series.

I would like to know how to make our own patterns that will be used over and over again, and what kind of paper or other substance.

- Cerisse

Hi Cerisse,

Great question!

This month we’re diving into organising our spaces in our Curated by ITF sewing subscription. We’ve covered a range of topics, including storage options for supplies, fabrics and patterns and how we can best set up our spaces to make them easy to use and inviting.

If you’ve sewn with the more common commercial patterns you’ll know how flimsy and easy-to-break sewing pattern paper can be. It doesn’t take much to tear, and if they’re a much-loved pattern, the constant use will quickly lead to damage.

While In the Folds paper patterns are printed on a heavier paper than commercial patterns (and you have the option to choose your preferred paper weight when printing our digital patterns), how you store your patterns is still key to making them last as long as possible.

Transferring sewing patterns onto card is a great way to achieve this.

TRANSFERRING PATTERNS ONTO CARD

When working with patterns you use time and time again, like pattern blocks, it’s a great idea to transfer the pattern onto card. This way the pattern can act as a "master" pattern that you can refer to over and over.

There are two ways you can do this:

  1. Use weights and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern lines onto the card, and then use a pencil and ruler to join the dots.

  2. Glue the paper pattern onto the cardboard and cut it out.

BENEFITS OF TRACING YOUR PATTERN ONTO CARD

As mentioned above, tracing onto card will increase the longevity of your patterns because card is stronger than paper, but there’s other benefits that you should also consider.

When a pattern has been traced onto card it is very quick and easy to trace a new copy. Simply trace around the outside!

Also, if you do it after you’ve made all your alterations and fitting changes, it becomes very clear which pattern is the final version.

A PATTERN TRACING TIP

Depending on what you plan to use your pattern for, you may choose to remove the seam allowance before transferring the block onto card.

Traditionally, pattern blocks do not include seam allowances. This means you can quickly and easily trace a copy and make changes to the design without worrying about seam allowances getting in the way.

Think about what you plan to use your pattern or block for and then decide if having the seam allowance on your card will be helpful for your workflow.

If you’d prefer to use paper, you can find our article about which paper to use, and how to trace patterns here.

Happy sewing!

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • What is a pattern block? Tutorial can be found here.

  • How to trace patterns - Tutorial can be found here.

  • The Organise Your Space resource is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of January 2023. More information can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

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ISSUE 140 - TIPS FOR CHOOSING A CUTTING TABLE

THE Q & A SERIES

TIPS FOR CHOOSING A CUTTING TABLE

Morning In the Folds,

I was wondering if you can help me decide on a cutting table.

I have just moved home and for the first time I'm lucky enough to have a space that I can dedicate to a sewing table.  I realise in the end it's each to their own and dependant upon the space available but as you must have used a variety of tables over the years I wondered if you could pass on what's great to have and things to avoid. 

I've been wondering, would you avoid a folding table, what height would you go for and what surface would you suggest? Also, what is the minimum size top you wouldn't go below (might that be based around the size of a bolt of fabric)?  I also figured it would be useful to have a table on casters and ideally be able to walk around it rather than it be up against a wall.

Anyway, knowing what others with more experience have found suitable will really help so thank you in advance if you get time to reply (I know you're always busy).

Kind regards,

Sharon, UK 

Hi Sharon,

How exciting that you have space for a cutting table!

This is actually a question I’ve had to consider myself recently. Last year I moved studio spaces and had more space available for a larger cutting table, so I’ve definitely got some thoughts on what to consider.

The focus of this month’s Curated by ITF project, Organise Your Space, also focuses on setting up your sewing space to make it easier to get stuck in and sew, so we’ve been thinking about this a lot!

When designing any space it’s always good to have a clear idea of how you intend to use the space you have, and then come up with a design based on that, so I’ve come up with some questions you might want to consider and answer for your yourself. I’ve included my own thoughts as well.

Will the cutting table be where you put your sewing machine?

Knowing the answer to this before you start out is important because it will impact the height of the table you want to have. It also determines whether or not you can use underneath the table for storage, or if you will need space to slide a stool or chair so you can sit at the table and sew.

You might not be able to answer this question until you’ve answered the question below, so consider these in tandem.

DO you PREFER TO STAND OR SIT when you sew?

With people now focusing on how much they’re moving each day, a lot of creatives are choosing to stand at their machine.

My workbench in my old studio was a comfortable height for standing, but when I used it as a sewing table I used a stool. It worked well, but I know this might not be comfortable for everyone. But, if you think about the time you actually spend sewing when you are making a garment (compared to cutting, pinning and ironing), you might find that you’re sat at your machine a lot less than you think!

Standing to sew might also mean you move between the different stages of garment construction more quickly and efficiently because you don’t have to stand up, move a chair out of the way, relocate to another area, etc.

how high should the cutting table be?

The height your cutting table will really depend on how tall you are.

Choose a height that is comfortable to stand at for long periods of time and doesn’t make you bend down too much. I think somewhere around the top of your hips is normally a good finished height to start with.

HOW WIDE SHOULD THE cutting TABLE BE?

When deciding on the table size you should also consider the patterns and fabric widths you tend to sew with, as it will be much easier to cut larger fabric pieces if you have the support of a table to match.

Off the bolt fabric can go up to 1.5m wide, so start there and work backwards.

If you don’t have the space to accomodate a table that big a 1.2m width would also work as only a small amount of fabric will be hanging off the edge if using larger widths, and most of the time you will be cutting on the fold.

how much sewing space do you have?

How much space you have for your sewing set-up will be a big factor in deciding on what furniture you can use.

If you have the space, I'd suggest having a dedicated cutting table. A large cutting table gives you space to do all the work that requires more room, such as pinning and set-up work, allowing you to have a separate smaller table just for sewing on your machines.

If possible I'd avoid a folding table. They can be great if you don't have the space, but they don't have the stability of a free standing table, which can be frustrating.

A table on casters is a great bonus to have. Being able to move the table out from a wall makes a big difference as you can access all sides which makes cutting a lot easier. It also means that you’re not completely dominating the space with a table and can move it around and out of the way when required. Keep in mind that castors will raise the height of a table.

WHAT TYPE OF SURFACE IS BEST?

I always try to consider longevity and sustainability when I’m setting up a new sewing space. For this reason I like to go with a timber that can take some wear and tear, but a piece can also be easily repaired or replaced later on if need be. A timber surface also means it can be lightly buffed when required.

To help protect your cutting table, large cutting mats are a great addition as they provide a smooth surface that won't catch or snag fabric. I’d highly recommend investing in a cutting mat (or however many you need to cover your table), particularly if you do lots of pattern alterations or use a rotary cutter as they will help prevent damage to the table top and make it last longer.

build or buy?

I love building a cutting table to fit my space because it means I can get the exact size, shape and height I need and want for my space.

There are some great resources online with directions for making one, like this one or this one (which has an interesting approach to the table top surface that I had never seen before!).

What's great about this style of table is that you have a lot of storage room underneath and can even put in a second shelf (depending on the height you go with and what you will be storing underneath).

It can also be handy to put some storage on the side - I have little hanging baskets on the side of mine where I can put a few tools etc. and then a rail where I can hang patternmaking tools.

If building a table is not possible, there are some great IKEA ideas / hacks around - like this one or this one.

I hope that's helpful and gives you some food for thought as you make plans for your new table!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Organise Your Space resource is currently available with a Curated by ITF subscription for the month of January 2023. More information can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 139 - Checking and truing a self-drafted pattern

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THE Q & A SERIES

How to check a self-drafted pattern

Hi Emily,

I’ve been loving the recent pants fitting and designing content and it’s got me feeling confident to give drafting my own pair of pants a go! I have a design in mind and am about to get started on the pattern. I’m still quite nervous though about everything going a bit awry once I alter the pattern. 

Any tips or words of wisdom to give me some confidence would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Susan

Hi Susan,

I’m so pleased you have been enjoying our Pants series! This is a great question.

Firstly, with the release of our three month pants sewing project, (check them out here: Pants Sewing Skills, Pants Fitting Pattern and Fit Kit, and Pants Designing) our aim has been to ensure makers feel as confident as possible to make the pants they want to wear! This means really breaking down the process into manageable chunks so you can face one thing at a time.

We started out by concentrating on sewing skills that particularly relate to pants. Think fly fronts, welt pockets and slash pockets, among others! In the second month we focused on pants fitting with the release of our Pants Fitting pattern and Fit Kit. This month we’re bringing it all together with our Pants Designing Kit.

I understand that it can be daunting making your first pattern and to feel confident to cut into your precious fabric to sew it up. That’s why we thought sharing some tips of things to keep in mind when going from drafting your own pattern to sewing it up would be a good way to round-out the series.

3 STEPS TO FOLLOW AFTER YOU’VE DRAFTED OR ADJUSTED A PATTERN

Step 1 - Check and true the pattern.

I teach first year pattern making at a local university here in Sydney and one of the first things we teach is how to check and true a pattern.

What this means is that you need to “walk” your seams together as if they have been sewn to check they come together correctly. At first this seems like a bit of a chore, but once you realise how much time (and fabric) it can save you in the long run, it will become one of the most important skills in your tool belt!


We have two tutorials that show you how to check patterns - this tutorial focuses on straight seams, and this one is for curved seams.

Step 2 - Make a toile.

If you’ve only made small adjustments (such as altered the length or added a pocket) and have already made a toile then you may be able to skip this step.

For any larger alterations - such as raising or lowering the waist on a pair of pants or changing the shape of the pants considerably, we’d suggest making a toile to check you are happy with the changes you have made.

If you have only made changes to the upper section of the pants, you may consider making a shorts version as a toile to save on fabric.

If you’ve added panel lines, or made an alteration that doesn’t change the fit of the pant, but you’d like to see what the new design is going to look like, you might be fine just to make one pant leg, rather than a full toile.

When it comes to designing your own patterns, you no longer have the instruction booklet to guide you through every step. In this situation, making a toile gives you a chance to experiment with the best order of construction. We suggest taking notes and photos as you go so you have a record to refer to when you sew up your final pair.

Step 3 - Sew samplers.

For Issue 13 of Curated by ITF we practiced pants sewing techniques by sewing samplers.

What is a sampler?

A sampler is a piece of fabric, or small portion of a design, used to practice sewing techniques. They’re a great way to create a personal reference of techniques that can be referred to again in the future.

Due to their size, they are easy to store and refer to. Consider stapling them to the printed instructions for each technique and putting them in a binder. Alternatively, you can staple folded cardboard to the top of each sampler, punch a hole in one corner and hang on a ring in your sewing space. Consider transferring the pattern pieces to card so they are durable and able to be used again and again.

Sewing a sampler is a great way to learn a new technique or build confidence before sewing a garment. Trying out skills on samplers is far less intimidating than sewing on an actual garment and allows you to slow down, relax and enjoy the process of learning something new. Like any new skill or hobby, getting good at it will take time. By sewing just a small part of a design, you can gain confidence and have something to refer to when you make your pants.

I hope this gives you the confidence to go from drafting a pattern to sewing a garment!

A QUICK REMINDER…

This will be our last Q&A email for 2022 as our little team takes a pause for some much needed rest and relaxation and I start maternity leave. New Q&As will be back in your inbox in the new year, but if you’re worried you’re going to miss learning with us too much, remember that our whole Q&A archive is on our website. So why not take a deep dive into learning something new these holidays?

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • How to check and true patterns - tutorials for straight seams and curved seams.

  • How to and why make a toile - tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

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ISSUE 138 - HOW TO LOWER THE WAIST ON A PANTS PATTERN

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THE Q & A SERIES

How to lower the waist on a pants pattern

Hi, 

I love the wide leg Pants pattern but prefer to wear all trousers much lower down, like on my hips, a low rise is it?! 

How can I modify the pattern to sit on my hips? - just below my belly button! ;) 

Really hoping you can help me as I really want to make these!! 

Thanks you so much, 

Janie :)

Hi Janie,

For the last three months of Curated by ITF we have been working on all things pants - sewing, fitting and designing. This includes adapting patterns so they suit your preferences, like lowering the waist.

ALWAYS START WITH A TOILE

If you want to lower where a pair of pants sit on the body, you can use a toile to work out how much to lower the waist by.

We strongly suggest making a toile to check the fit of the original pattern before going ahead and making large-scale pattern alterations. Once you're happy with the fit, you can draw on the toile where you'd like the new waistline and waistband to sit. You may like to refer to a pair of pants in your wardrobe to get an idea of the exact fit.

For your toile, if you’re using the Peppermint Wide Leg pants pattern (or a similar pattern that has pockets), we’d suggest converting the pattern into a block before you get started. This way you don’t have to worry about the pockets. Once you are happy with the fit and have lowered the waist, then you can add the pockets back in. We’ve got a tutorial showing you how to add pockets to a pants pattern in this month’s issue of Curated, but if you’re not a subscriber you can see this tutorial we created about adding pockets to a skirt pattern.

A STEP-BY-STEP TUTORIAL TO LOWER THE WAIST ON PANTS

Step 1

Using your toile as a reference, draw the desired waistline onto the pattern at the point where the pants meet the waistband (not at the top of the waistband). Let's call this line A.

Step 2

Repeat for the back pattern. Let's call this line B. For the example we chose to lower the waist to a point below the dart, eliminating the need for a dart.

Step 3
Line up the side seam STITCH LINES of the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] as if they have been sewn together (one on top of the other).

Check that the new waistline flows smoothly between the front and back. Adjust if necessary.

Step 4
You will need to create a new waistband for the altered pattern. Draw lines parallel to lines A and B, at the desired height of the new waistband. We recommend a 3-4cm (1¼-1½in) waistband.

STEP 5

a Trace the front waistband shape. Add a grainline to the pattern parallel to the CENTRE FRONT.

b Trace another copy on the reverse side (with the waistband flipped). The reason we trace both sides is because the left and right waistband are not identical (we will add a fly front extension to the left waistband only).

c For the left waistband, add an extension for the FLY SHIELD. The extension needs to be the width of the FLY SHIELD (in this case 4.5cm (1¾in)) and the edge needs to be parallel to the CENTRE FRONT.

Step 6

Add 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance to the top and bottom edges of the waistband pieces. Add 1.2cm (½in) seam allowance to the CENTRE FRONT and side seam.

You can change the amount of seam allowance to your preferred width, but remember that the lower edge of the waistband should have the same amount as the top of the pants.

Make sure your patterns are labelled "CUT 1 PAIR + BLOCK FUSE" for both the right and left front Waistband.

Step 7
Trace the back waistband piece in the same way.

Trace the dart and we will show you how to remove it in the following steps.

Add a grainline to the pattern parallel to the CENTRE BACK.

Step 8

a Cut down one of the dart legs.

b Close the dart by moving the cut dart arm so that it meets the uncut dart arm. Tape / glue pattern in place.

Step 9
Fold a piece of pattern paper and line up the CENTRE BACK of the new BACK WAISTBAND with the fold.

Trace a copy of the piece, smoothing out the top and bottom edge where the dart was removed. Label the piece "CUT 1 PAIR + BLOCK FUSE".

Add seam allowance in the same way that you did on the front waistband pieces. Mark a notch at the CENTRE BACK on the top and bottom edge.

Step 10

Take the pants pattern and add 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to lines A and B. You can choose whether to trace a copy to keep as a draft or cut off the excess.

Alter the fly pieces by lining up the piece on the pattern and shortening to reflect the new rise height. You will also need a shorter zip to fit the new lowered waist.

Happy drafting,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • The Wide Leg Pants pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

  • How to convert a pants pattern into a block - read the tutorial here.

  • How to draft side pockets - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

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ISSUE 137 - ADDING PLEATS TO PANTS

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THE Q & A SERIES

How to add pleats to pants

Hello,

I recently tried adding pleats to your Peppermint Wide Leg pants pattern and although I am happy with my results I think that I should have also added a little more width to the back panels. Is there a particular method that you would recommend for this type of pant pattern alteration?

Thank you.

Sincerely, 

Jess

Hi Jess,

Learning how to hack patterns we already have is a wonderful skill to be able to add to your sewing toolbelt, and it’s something we focus on in our sewing subscription, Curated by ITF. This month we’ve been showing our members how to design pants using the pants block we made previously.

Apart from making sewing more economical, knowing how to hack patterns means that we can make clothes that we want to wear, regardless of what fashion trends are in at the moment. It also means our clothes will be unique and we’re not going to walk around a corner and see someone wearing the exact same outfit!

What are pleats?

Pleats are made when fabric is folded over on itself. They are a fantastic way to add volume and shaping to a garment - in this case a pair of pants - without the need for darts.

Pleats in pants

There are a range of different pleats you can use when wanting to add fullness to pants. Forward pleats, reverse pleats, double pleats…

A single pleat on each side of the front waist is the most common approach in pants.

If you want to increase the volume at the back of pants, you can add a pleat there as well, but it is important to consider how much volume you want in the pants overall.

My suggestion is to add pleats in the front, and then use the cut and spread technique to add the extra volume you’d like in the back.

WHAT TO keep in mind when adding pleats to pants

Depending on the pattern you’re hacking, adding more fabric into a design may impact areas of the pattern differently. Here’s two things you should keep in mind when adding pleats to pants:

  • If it is too close to the CENTRE FRONT this could add excess volume in the crotch area.

  • If it is too close to the side seam, there may not be room for the volume of the pleat when it is folded in place and could add too much bulk if you choose to include a pocket.

DETERMINING PLEAT WIDTH & DIRECTION

You will need to have a think about the size of the pleat you want to add to your pattern. This is totally up to you, and depends on the look you are wanting to achieve.

If you are struggling to work out the width you would like your pleat to be, have a play around with some fabric (or even a piece of paper). Fold different sized pleats into the fabric to get an idea of how it will look and how much fabric it will use.

Keep in mind where you intend the pleat to be placed in the garment and how much room there is. This will help you determine the best size for the pleat.

It’s up to you which direction you'd like to fold your pleat - it's just a design decision. If you're unsure, have a look at your pleat sample! We like to fold ours towards the side seam as this avoids excess volume flaring into the crotch area.

How to add volume to pants using pleats

In this example, we only want to add volume in the upper section of the pattern, so we will separate the pattern at the knee.

This allows us to add volume for the pleat, yet keep the hem width the same. You can skip this and add volume through the whole piece, if you prefer.

In the case of our Pants block, the knee line should be around the same area as the LENGTHEN/SHORTEN LINES. Hold the pattern up to your body to check.

Take care to draw the slash line perpendicular to the grainline.

Step 1

Consider where you would like to add a pleat/s. We recommend it be in the middle of waistline so you don’t add too much volume to the crotch or bulk to the pocket area. For this example we will create one pleat, but you can add multiple if you like.

Draw a slash line through the pattern where you plan to place your pleat (or pleats).

Step 2

Slide a large piece of pattern paper under your pattern.

Cut along the line from the waist, stopping 1-2mm from the knee line. This should create a hinge in the paper.

Make sure you check that there is room for a pleat this width in relation to the CENTRE FRONT / BACK and side seams (depending on where you have placed your pleat/s).

Step 3

Using the hinge, open the pattern by the amount you'd like to add for the pleat, measuring at the waist STITCH LINE. Remember that the amount needs to be double the width of your finished pleat.

Tape / glue pattern in place.

Step 4

Fold the pleat in the direction you'd like it to be sewn. Press down at the waist area to form creases.

Step 5

When you fold a pleat on a curved edge, you need to adjust the edge of the pleat so that it sits flush with the waistline.

Using a tracing wheel, transfer the waist shaping onto the pleat edge at the waist STITCH LINE. Add seam allowance to the pleat.

Step 6

Add FOLD LINES either side of the pleat. Add notches where the FOLD LINES meet the CUT LINE at the waist.

Mark an arrow to indicate which direction the pleat needs to be folded.

Step 7

Take the lower section of the pattern which you cut off before you started. Place it back on the top pattern by lining up the side seams at the STITCH LINE.

You will have an excess triangle on your pattern where the two meet - don't worry about this! The inseam and side seam are still the same length and the excess will blend into the pleat once folded.

If you've opened up your pattern a large amount, you can smooth the inseam and side seam at the knee area if necessary.

Step 8

Redraw the grainline in the centre of the pleat.

Step 9

Measuring down from the waistline on the FOLD LINES of the pleat, mark drill holes the distance down you would like to stitch your pleat.

In industry, these markings would normally be offset from the fold line by 5mm (¼in) so that the holes would be hidden inside the pleat. In the home sewing world we don't mark drill holes with actual holes in the fabric (we use chalk or a tailor's tack) so we are fine to have these markings on the FOLD LINE.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • The Wide Leg Pants pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

  • Adding volume to a pattern - tutorial for the cut and spread technique can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 136 - HOW TO CONVERT A PANTS PATTERN INTO A BLOCK

THE Q & A SERIES

How to convert a pants pattern into a block

Hi Emily,

I’ve made the Peppermint Wide Leg pants pattern before and decided to use that pattern to work on fit for last month’s issue of Curated. I’m excited to be working on pants designing this month with you and the community, but I’m wondering if there is anything I need to do to the pattern before I get started?

Thanks,

Rachel

Hi Rachel,

This is a great question!

With our Pants Fitting Issue of Curated by ITF, many of our ‘Foldies’ (what we like to call our Curated by ITF community members) decided to use the Wide Leg Pants pattern as they already had it in their stash.

But if you’re going to use the Wide Leg Pants pattern to design other pants, you should convert it into a pattern block before you start. If you’re not sure what a pattern block is, read this post.

The Wide Leg Pants pattern is a sewing pattern for a finished pair of pants, and the design includes elements that a pants block may not, such as pockets. To convert it into a pattern block we need to remove these elements.

Fitting a pattern without pockets is much easier because you remove the need to alter several pieces when making fitting adjustments.

A pocket opening can also change the way pants fit. For example, it might make you feel like you have more room than you do, so we recommend getting the pants to fit right first and then add the pocket in later.

HOW TO REMOVE POCKETS FROM A PANTS PATTERN TO CREATE A PATTERN BLOCK

Step 1

Place the POCKET FACING [3] piece onto the FRONT LEG [1], lining up the waist seam, pocket opening and side seam. You can tape or pin in place. I like to use masking tape or magic tape as it's easy to peel off and won't damage the pattern.

Step 2

Place the POCKET BAG [4] onto the POCKET FACING [3], lining up the side seam, crotch seam, waist seam and bottom edge of the pocket. Tape or pin in place.

Step 3

Trace a copy of the pattern onto a piece of pattern paper. To trace a pattern you can either use transparent paper and place it on top of the pieces you are tracing, or use opaque paper under your pattern and use a tracing wheel to trace the lines.

When tracing a pattern, be sure to transfer the STITCH LINE and the CUT LINE, as well as the grainline, notches and any other pattern markings (in this case that means the drill hole on the front crotch).

If you like, you can transfer the pattern onto card for safe-keeping.

Update the pattern markings to reflect the new piece. In the example I have updated the pattern piece name to Wide Leg Pants block.

In the case of the Peppermint Wide Leg Pants pattern, there's nothing else we need to do. The back piece has limited details - just darts - so you can use the back piece as it is with the updated front piece.

Happy drafting,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • The Wide Leg Pants pattern is a free pattern and can be found here.

  • What is a pattern block? - post can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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REVERSE-WRAP-TOP.png
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ISSUE 135 - HOW TO AVOID HUNGRY BUM IN PANTS

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THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO AVOID HUNGRY BUM IN PANTS

Hi Emily,

How can I avoid the “hungry bum” on trousers ?

Sandie

Hi Sandie,

Thanks for asking this question. It’s something that nobody likes to think happens to them, but I’m sure we’ve all fallen foul of it at some point in our lives!

WHAT IS HUNGRY BUM WHEN REFERRING TO PANTS?

For those who’ve never heard the term ‘hungry bum’ you might be more familiar with the term ‘wedgie’. Basically, both terms refer to when your pants creep up in between the thighs and buttocks, and stay there.

SIGNS OF HUNGRY BUM

When we think of ‘hungry bum’ we immediately conjure up worst case scenario images in our head. In reality, the affect of a ‘hungry bum’ can be measured on a scale. For a bit of laugh, let’s say the scale goes from the lower end of ‘feeling peckish’ to ‘absolutely famished’ at the higher end ;)

In all seriousness, if you’ve noticed that you’ve got fabric pulling towards the front or back crotch of your pants, or the fabric is bunching up between your legs, then you’ve probably got a ‘hungry bum’. The fabric around the thighs may also feel tight.

But what causes it, specifically?

the causes of hungry bum

Although it is difficult to say what is causing the ‘hungry bum’ without seeing photos of a toile being worn, it’s commonly a result of a garment not fitting the wearer’s thighs properly. If this is the case, the alteration that needs to be made is a Full Thigh Adjustment. This is just one of the pants fitting adjustments we cover in our Pants Fitting issue of Curated by ITF.

when to do a full thigh adjustment

You’ll know you need to make this adjustment if your toile is too tight in the thigh area or you struggle to pull your toile up beyond your thighs. You may also notice that your range of movement is limited in the thigh area. If you cannot pull your toile up over your thighs you definitely need to include a Full Thigh Adjustment in your pants fitting process.

If a Full Thigh Adjustment is common for you, we suggest measuring the thigh on the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] pieces and comparing that to your body measurements before making a toile.

Keep in mind that you require ease in the thigh of the pattern so that you can comfortably sit and stand.

PREPARATIONS FOR A FULL THIGH ADJUSTMENT

Unpick the inner leg seams of your toile from the crotch to a point approximately 25-30cm (10-12in) down the seam. Open up the seam and pin a strip of fabric in the opening at the width you think you need to add.

Try on the toile. Add or remove width in the opening depending on the result.

Continue the process until you are happy with the amount of width added to the toile.

HOW TO DO A FULL THIGH ADJUSTMENT ON PANTS

Step 1

On the FRONT [1], extend the inner leg seam from a point midway between the notches up through the crotch seam. The line needs to be parallel to the grainline. We will call this line A.

At the bottom of line A, draw a perpendicular line through the seam allowance to the CUT LINE.

Step 2

Cut down line A from the crotch seam. Stop 1-2mm from the end of the line at the STITCH LINE. Cut into the seam allowance towards the end of the line, creating a small hinge of paper at the end of line A.

Step 3

Refer to your toile to work out how much width needs to be added to the thigh of the pattern. We will add half the amount to the FRONT [1] and the other half to the BACK [1].

Slide a piece of pattern paper under the cut section. Swing out the inner leg seam. Mark a point out from the STITCH LINE of the crotch at the width you would like to add. We will call this point B.

Step 4

Swing the inner leg section so that the STITCH LINE meets point B. Tape in place. Redraw crotch seam STITCH LINE and CUT LINE, joining the two sections with a smooth curve that merges into the original crotch seam.

Step 5

Straighten out the top section of the inner leg seam. This will help you retain the nice smooth scoop of the crotch seam when this seam is sewn. Smooth out the inner leg seam where the alteration was made, if required.

Step 6

Repeat STEPS 1 - 5 for the BACK [2]. Add the same amount to the BACK [2] as you did to the FRONT [1].

If you notice on your toile that the fabric is only pulling at the front or back then you can choose to make this adjustment to only one section.

Step 7

Check that the crotch seam is a nice smooth curve by lining up the STITCH LINES of the inner leg seams. For more details on checking curved seams, see this tutorial.

There’s a lot to consider when you’re sewing pants and if you’re just starting out on your pants sewing journey we highly recommend our Pants Sewing series, which is part of our Curated by ITF subscription.

Across three Issues we cover everything you need to know to be able to sew, fit and design yourself a pair of pants you love to wear! As well as the resources we provide in each Issue, you also have access to our online sewing community, where you can ask all your sewing questions and get the support you need to help you on your way!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing Skills Kit, Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit and the Pants Design Kit are the first, second and third parts of our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • Checking patterns: curved seams - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 134 - HOW TO ALTER THE CROTCH LENGTH ON PANTS

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO ALTER THE CROTCH LENGTH ON PANTS

My biggest challenge is how to alter to crotch/rise in pants.  I need to lengthen the crotch in back without adding width and shorten rise in front.  I'm a size 6 US / 10 British so the issue for me is not adding more room.  It's all about the fit!

Thank you and so grateful for this series. 

Best regards,

Mary

Bend, USA

Hi Mary,

What’s great about your question is that you already know what changes you need to make to a pants pattern to achieve a great fit. Often diagnosing the issue is the trickiest part of the pants fitting process. Once you know what you need to do, it’s just a matter of working through the alterations methodically. 

You can definitely alter the crotch length in different ways on the front and the back of pants.

As the alteration is made only to the crotch curve (and not the side seam), it’s fine to remove crotch length from the front and then add crotch length to the back.

WHEN TO ADJUST CROTCH LENGTH

The best way to work out if you need to add or remove length from the front or back crotch seam is to make a toile and assess the fit in front of a full length mirror while it’s being worn.

If the front or back crotch feels like it is sitting lower than it should be, or soft horizontal folds are forming (Image 1) on either the front or the back but not at the side seams, then the crotch length is likely too long for you. 

If the front or back crotch feels like it's pulling towards you, but the side seams fit well, you may need to add length to the crotch. You may also notice drag lines radiating upwards from your crotch (Image 2).

HOW TO LENGTHEN CROTCH LENGTH

The steps are the same for the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] pattern pieces. You may need to alter one or both.

Step 1

Mark a line through the pattern piece perpendicular to the grainline in the section above the crotch curve. We don't want to change the curve, just the length of the CENTRE FRONT / CENTRE BACK seam. 

We will refer to this as line A. If your cut line goes through notches (such as for fly placement), keep a note of their original locations so you can redraw them later.

Step 2

Cut along line A from the CENTRE FRONT.

Slow down as you approach the STITCH LINE on the side seam and stop when you are 1-2mm from the STITCH LINE. Cut in from the side seam on line A towards the point where you stopped cutting. Stop cutting when you are 1-2mm from the STITCH LINE to create a hinge.

Step 3

Determine how much you would like to add to the crotch length.

The best way to find this is by making a toile and cutting into the fabric across the crotch. You can pin some fabric into the opening and reassess the fit.

Take a piece of pattern paper slightly larger than the amount you would like to add and mark a horizontal line. We will refer to this as line B. Mark a line below line B, parallel to line B and equal to the distance you will be adding. We will refer to this as line C.

Step 4

Slide the paper under the pattern. Line up line A (pants section) with line C and tape in place. 

Carefully rotate the top section of the pattern until the CENTRE FRONT STITCH LINE hits line B. Tape or glue in place.

Step 5

Re-draw the side seam and CENTRE FRONT seam with nice smooth curves.

Redraw the grainline following the grainline on the leg of the pants. Cut off excess paper.

HOW TO SHORTEN CROTCH LENGTH

To shorten the crotch length, the steps are the same for the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] pattern pieces. You may need to alter one or both.

Repeat STEPS 1 and 2 above.

Step 3

Consider how much you would like to remove from the crotch. The best way to find this is by making a toile and assessing the amount by pinning out a wedge from the crotch and checking the fit.

Once you know the amount, measure up from line A on the CENTRE FRONT STITCH LINE and mark a point equal to the amount you would like to remove. We will refer to this as point B.

Step 4

Carefully rotate the top section of the pattern so that point B meets with line A.

Tape or glue in place.

Step 5

Re-draw the side seam and CENTRE FRONT seam (CUT and STITCH LINES) with nice smooth curves. Redraw the grainline following the grainline on the leg of the pants.

This month for our Curated by ITF project we are working with our community to make toiles, conduct fittings and determine what alterations to make.

Our latest issue, the Pants Fitting pattern and Fit Kit, guides you through the whole process and then we’re right there in our online sewing community to answer all your questions, assess your toile photos and guide you through the process. If you’re interested to learn more about the pants sewing, fitting and design process, sign up to Curated by ITF now!

Happy fitting,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit is the second part in our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

Q & A series
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Q&A blog header-5.png
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ISSUE 133 - YOUR PANTS FITTING PROJECT QUESTIONS ANSWERED

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THE Q & A SERIES

YOUR PANTS FITTING PROJECT QUESTIONS ANSWERED

We’ve had lots of new members join our Curated by ITF community this month who are looking to build their skills in the area of sewing, drafting and fitting pants, and we’re excited to be able to help them learn this valuable garment sewing skill.

We know that, for many people, sewing pants is a no-go zone. Many makers learn the hard way that you’re unlikely to get a pair of well-fitted pants by ‘winging it’. Because pants incorporate the waist, hips, crotch curve and thighs, pants require you to have a good grasp of the fundamentals of the fitting process (or be willing to give it a red hot go!).

Understanding the why, what, where, and when of fitting pants means that when you hit a roadblock you know what adjustment to use to rectify it. It also means you have a process to follow that allows you to troubleshoot the issue, trying different approaches separately, or knowing when to use a combination of adjustments.

We’ve had a few questions come in lately relating to this month’s Pants Fitting Pattern, so this week is a little different to our usual Q&A post. We’re sharing our answers to these questions all at once in the hope that it might also answer any questions you have also had, and get you on the journey to designing, fitting and sewing pants that you love!

Just wondering if this pant pattern is the same as the Wide leg pants, but without the front pocket. I have the Wide leg pants printed out and removed the front pocket to make fitting easier for the first pair. I thought I would save some paper if they are the same draft.

Tracy

Hi Tracy,

The pattern for Issue 14 of Curated is different to the Wide Leg pants pattern, but it is quite similar. The legs are narrower on the new pattern and the back dart is shorter. We also chose not to include pockets in the Pants Fitting pattern, which makes it quicker and easier to toile and make alterations. This also makes it easier to be used as a base pattern that can be used in the future to draft other patterns from (that’s what’s coming for Issue 15 of Curated!)

In saying that though, I think you'd be fine to use the Wide Leg pants pattern you have already printed and started on, as it is very similar and all the resources in the Fit Kit will apply to that pattern. We’re also happy to show you how to remove the pocket, if you’d like to make it more like a block pattern.

You can always make the leg narrower, as we have included a tutorial in the Fit Kit for how to do that.

Happy sewing (and fitting),

Emily

Hello,

I have an existing pant block, but it is from before kids and so my body has changed - mainly bigger and maybe more tummy.

I wonder if I can use this block for my toile and do the fit alterations to it rather than use the pant pattern supplied?

Thanks,
Denise

Hi Denise,

Good question!

We have made the resources so that the techniques apply to other pants patterns and blocks, so you could definitely give it a go.

One thing to note is that when fitting a garment it is much easier to remove fabric, rather than add it in, so I'd be checking that you can make a toile that fits you well enough from the block to conduct a fitting.

If you mainly need more room across the tummy, then you could definitely do a full tummy adjustment to add more room in the tummy area. You could also add a larger seam allowance to the pattern (particularly in the side seams) so that you have more room to play with during the fitting.

It might be worth a go as an experiment. You can see after a fitting how much work is involved in adjusting the block and then decide if you're better off sticking with the block or using our pants fitting pattern.

Happy sewing,

Emily

Hello,

I am interested in joining your community, mainly to learn about pants fitting.

Via Peppermint I got access to you Wide Leg Pants pattern. I really love the style and made already two Wide Leg pants. However, I have the feeling that the fit has room for improvement.

Recently, I bought 3 fabrics for making autumn/winter pants based on this pattern. Would the Pants fitting project of this month work along with the Wide Leg pants pattern or is it compulsory to use the pants pattern that comes with the fitting project?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Kind regards,
Monika

Hi Monika,

You can definitely work along with the fitting content we released this month using the Wide Leg Pants pattern.

The fitting pattern is quite similar to the Wide Leg pants pattern. The main differences are how much width is in the leg and that the fitting pattern doesn't have any pockets (which makes the fitting process easier).

All the resources in the Fit Kit and community group will definitely be helpful to you on your pants fitting journey. Some of our makers (who we like to call ‘Foldies’) are also working on the Wide Leg pants pattern, so you won’t be alone! We created the content to be relevant to a range of different pants patterns so that the resources can be used for different projects.

You will be fine to jump on board and follow the process with this pattern.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit is the second part in our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • The Wide Leg pants pattern can be found here.

  • How to add seam allowance to a pattern - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

Q & A series
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Q&A blog header-5.png
full-bicep-adjustment-dolman-sleeves.png

ISSUE 132 - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO SEW PANTS THAT FIT

THE Q & A SERIES

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO
SEW PANTS THAT FIT

How do you make a pants pattern fit?  

Thanks,

Nancy
Hampton Georgia, United States

Hi Nancy,

That’s a great question. How to sew pants that fit is a question we have answered in great detail in this month’s Curated by ITF project, the Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit!

We all know that fitting pants can be a little overwhelming. Just like our mantra here at In the Folds,  what we suggest you do is slow down, take the pressure off and take it one step at a time. Keep reading to see what we believe you need to know to sew pants that fit, plus we share a Pants Fitting Checklist that you can use whenever you’re working through the fitting process.

BE WARY OF OVER-FITTING

Before getting started with fitting a pair of pants we suggest you get a clear goal in mind.

It is important to remember that the goal is not to make pants that have no creases. This is called “over-fitting” and indicates that the pants have no ease in them. As you can imagine, this would make them very uncomfortable to wear and to move around in! The goal is to make pants that are comfortable to wear and that you like the look of.

It can be easy to get caught up in fitting a garment perfectly - especially as you're standing in a static pose, in front of a mirror, wearing calico.

Try to remember that as you move and use the real fabrics, the creases that seem to stand out while standing still most likely won't show up as much as they do in calico. 

TAKE ACCURATE MEASUREMENTS

It’s a very good idea to take accurate body measurements with a tape measure before getting started. To do this, we recommend putting on some tight clothes, like leggings or just your underwear.

Take your waist and hip measurements first. Be sure to measure at the fullest part of your hips. Do this in front of a full length mirror and check from the side that the tape measure is not dipping up or down. It’s also a good idea to take your waist and hip measurements while sitting down, to ensure you will have enough ease while sitting.

If your measurements are between sizes, use the finished garment measurements from the pattern to help you decide if you should select the smaller or larger size. This measurement shows the amount of ease in the pattern. If a pattern is somewhat fitted, we recommend selecting the larger size for your toile, as it is easier to remove fabric from the toile than add fabric in.

ALWAYS MAKE A TOILE

We all know what it’s like... You purchase (or draft) a new pattern and you just want to get into it and make it so you can wear it!

While this approach may work for some garments, when it comes to sewing pants, we strongly recommend you make a toile first. A toile is a test version of a garment, made from a similar, but often cheaper, fabric. You can read more about making a toile here. By making a toile you can check the fit of the garment, and make any adjustments before cutting into your 'real' fabric.

Consider increasing the stitch length on your machine. This makes sewing your toile faster, but also means it's a lot easier to open up seams if you want to make an adjustment during the fitting process. We suggest that you trace a copy of the pattern before making any adjustments. This way you always have a copy of the original pattern to refer to.

FITTING YOUR TOILE

Once you have selected your size and made your toile, you can do a fitting to check if you need to make any alterations.

This is a good time to mention that most of us will require some alterations. This is not to deter you, but to let you know that it’s completely normal to need to make alterations!

Patterns are designed to a standard shape, but most of us are not the standard. By reminding yourself of this you can see pattern alterations as another skill to add to your repertoire and see it as just another part of the sewing process instead of a chore.

When fitting your toile, try to be methodical. It can be easy to be overwhelmed by the process, but just remind yourself that one effective alteration can make a world of difference and will often resolve multiple issues.

Because of this, it’s also good to remember not to make too many changes once. Just make one alteration to your toile and then re-fit before doing anything else you think you need.

PANTS FITTING CHECKLIST

Our current issue of Curated by ITF includes an extensive Pants Fitting Checklist. We thought we’d share a few of the main things with you so you know where to get started:

  1. Check that your CENTRE FRONT and CENTRE BACK seam lines are sitting in the right place. They should be in the centre of your body on the front and back.

  2. Check that the pants are sitting on your waist (or where they are supposed to be sitting).

  3. Check where the crotch of the pants is sitting on your body. Where this sits will depend on the pattern and how it has been designed.

  4. Check that the opening is a comfortable length and you can get in and out of the pants easily. For example, with our pants fitting pattern it has a front opening for a zip fly front.

  5. Check for drag lines on your toile. Drag lines are lines in the fabric that form when fabric is being pulled across a part of the body. It may indicate that there is not enough length or width in a certain part of the garment. Sometimes it can be easier to spot drag lines by taking a photo of your toile. Ask a friend or family member to take the photos or use a tripod or balance your phone on something and use a self-timer to take photos of yourself. Be sure to take photos from all angles. 

  6. Check that you have enough room in the thigh area of the pant legs. It’s a good idea to check while sitting too.

  7. Check that you have enough room in the tummy area. If the waist and hips fit well, but you’re experiencing pulling across the front, you may need some extra room in that area. 

  8. Check that your side seams appear straight and are perpendicular to the floor. If your side seam is pulling towards the front or the back, this normally means that you need more width in the area where it's pulling.

  9. Check the hem length. Have a play with the length until you get a pant length that feels comfortable for you.

  10. Check that you can move and sit comfortably in the pants. Move around. If a seam feels tight, let out the seam with your seam ripper and re-pin the seam with a smaller seam allowance to see if this helps.

We hope this helps you get started on your pants fitting journey. If you feel like you still need a bit of extra support and encouragement, be sure to sign-up to Curated by ITF this month and work alongside our community!

Happy fitting,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Fitting pattern & Fit Kit is the second part in our Pants Sewing project series, which is available through our Curated by ITF subscription. Past issues are also now available for purchase by subscribers. More information can be found here.

  • How to (and why) make a toile - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

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ISSUE 131 - MAKING PANTS USING A PATTERN BLOCK

THE Q & A SERIES

Learning patternmaking using pattern blocks

I would love to make my own patterns but I get so confused. Do you have a basic pants block that is easy to follow?

Lucille
Chatsworth, South Africa

Hi Lucille,

Making your own patterns can be a little bit confusing when you’re getting started, but you’ve got the right idea - using a block helps a lot!

WHAT IS A PATTERN BLOCK

A pattern block is a foundation pattern that patternmakers use as a base or foundation when drafting patterns.

In the US, a block is referred to as a ‘sloper’ so you may see these terms used interchangeably in books and blocks, depending on where the author is from. We have a whole article about pattern blocks and how you use them that you can read here.

THE IN THE FOLDS PANTS BLOCK

Over the years we have had A LOT of requests for a pants block, so we are excited to say that we’ve just released one as part of our Pants Making Project Series.

This project has been in the works for a very long time. We really wanted to create a pattern that would assist makers to make a pair of pants that fit well, but also one that gave them a base to springboard off when drafting new designs. 

The problem with pattern blocks is that they are often drafted to be quite fitted, with minimal ease. Although this can be great as an exercise in fitting, makers often find it difficult to then know what to do with the block and how to use it to make the style of clothes they want to wear.

For this reason we designed our Pants Fitting pattern with a comfortable amount of ease in the waist, hip and through the leg. Once you’ve mastered the fit (with the Fit Kit that we released along with the pattern) you will have a solid starting point to design from, without having to think about adding ease… unless of course you want a pant with more volume, and we will show you how to do that too!

Although the shape of our pants pattern isn’t a conventional pant block shape (for the reasons mentioned above), we made sure we stuck with all the other things that make a block handy to use.

The pant has minimal design details - just a back dart for shaping and a shaped waistband. We left out the pockets so that you can quickly and easily do a fitting and then draft the style of pockets you like. We included the fly pieces in case you want them in the future, but when making toiles we suggest you skip the fly so that you can quickly and easily make adjustments.

WHAT DO YOU USE A PATTERN BLOCK FOR?

Once you have altered the pattern to fit your body, you will then be able to use it as a block. It’s a good idea to transfer your pattern onto cardboard for safe-keeping. This will keep it nice and strong and mean you can use it over and over. It also makes it quick and easy to trace a copy onto paper when you’re ready to use it.

 There are two main things you would use a block for as a home sewist:

  1. To check what adjustments you need to make on new patterns. For example, you might be really happy with the crotch shape on your block. When you use another pants pattern you can lay the block onto the crotch to see if you need to make alterations to the other pattern.

  2. To design your own patterns. This is the thing we are really excited about! Once you have a base pattern, there are countless things you can do. Add volume, remove volume, change the leg shape, lower the waist, raise the waist, add panel lines, change the closure type, add any pocket shape you can think of… just to name a few! The options really are endless.

    For this month’s issue of Curated by ITF we’re working on pants fitting with the new pants pattern so that next month we can get you patternmaking, because it’s always a good idea to ensure the base pattern fits you well before making design adjustments.

Happy sewing!

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Pants Sewing project series is available as part of our Curated by ITF subscription. More information can be found here.

  • What is a pattern block? - read the tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 130 - How to shorten the Hove jacket

THE Q & A SERIES

How to shorten the Hove jacket

Hi Emily 

I am really enjoying improving my skills each month with Curated and I’m about to start the Hove Jacket (View A).

I am short and I would like to shorten the overall jacket length . This pattern has a couple of beautiful curves in its feature panels that are intersected by the shorten/lengthen lines - could you please provide some tips on grading a curve when shortening 80-100mm.

Jen
Adelaide

Hi Jen,

Great to hear you are enjoying Curated by ITF and would like to give the Hove jacket a go!

Here at In the Folds we love a curved seam. They make fun and interesting shapes to wear and sew. Some of our favourite curved seams can be found in the Hove jacket, Flynn jacket and the Darlow pants.

You’re right though, when it comes to shortening or lengthening a pattern with curves, it does change the process a little bit, in comparison to altering straight seams. 

The Hove jacket and the Flynn jacket are actually sibling patterns and share the same curves. We have a tutorial here that shows you how to shorten the Flynn, which you can use on the Hove jacket as well.

CHECK AND TRUING A PATTERN

Once you have made the adjustment to the length, the most important part of the process is to check that your seams fit together. This is called “checking and truing” a pattern.

This means that you walk the seams together as if they have been sewn and check that all the seams are the correct length and that the notches line up. We have a tutorial on that process here.

I’d suggest you get into the habit of checking and truing your patterns after making any pattern alterations. It only takes a few minutes once you get the hang of it. Believe me, it will save you a lot of frustration in the long run because you’ll be able to catch a rogue notch or a seam that you didn’t quite adjust properly before it affects the garment’s construction.

I hope these tutorials give you the confidence to shorten the pattern!

Happy sewing,
Emily

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.

  • The Hove jacket pattern can be found here.

  • The Darlow pants pattern can be found here.

  • More information about our Curated by ITF sewing subscription can be found here.

  • Shortening the Flynn jacket - tutorial can be found here.

  • Checking and truing - tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 129 - THREE WAYS TO ADD A CLOSURE TO THE FLYNN JACKET

THE Q & A SERIES

Three ways to add a closure to the Flynn jacket

Hi Emily,

I got a Flynn jacket pattern and am wondering if there are any ways to add buttons or a zip. Is that possible?

I love the jacket as is but at the same time I would love to close the front when it is cold.

Thank you :)

Manami

Hi Manami,

Great to hear you’d like to give the Flynn jacket a go.

We’re celebrating 12 months of Curated by ITF this month and are celebrating all things skill-building. Being able to alter and adapt patterns (check out all our sewing tutorials to help you do this here!) to better suit your needs is a fantastic skill to have and is something we love supporting our community to do in our Curated community.


You’ve got a few options for adding a closure to the Flynn jacket. You could add an open-ended zip (similar to the Hove jacket), buttons or a hook and eye.

The first thing that’s helpful is to understand the construction of the Flynn jacket. The front panel wraps around to connect at the centre back neck and creates the collar and the front panel opening. I’ve highlighted it in the photo above so you can see the shape. The front opening meets, but doesn’t overlap.

Before hacking a pattern (read our top tips here!) we suggest making the pattern in its original form. You may make it as a completed garment or just a toile - a test version of a garment. This blog post talks about why you should make toiles.

Having the garment in its original form is a great way to make design decisions, as you will have the garment to refer to and can try it on and use pins to mark points of interest. For example, in this case you could try on the jacket and decide how high up you would like the zip to go. This is more difficult to estimate on the flat pattern than a garment. 

HOW TO ADD A ZIP CLOSURE TO THE FLYNN JACKET

You can use an open-ended zip to create a closure. 

A First, mark the centre front opening on the pattern. You will want to place the zip in the straight section of the opening - which is roughly about the position of the centre notch on the pattern. From this point you can see that the seam starts changing shape, so you won't want a zip going too high up as it would distort the way the centre front hangs.

Measure from the stitch line at the hem up to the point where you’d like the zip to stop. Then look to see if you can get a zip this length. You may need to tweak the measurement (and notch position) a little to get it to line up with a standard zip measurement (unless you’d like to shorten a zip). Here in Australia, 35cm and 40cm open-ended zips are easy enough to come by and both could work well.

B The pattern has a 1.2cm (1/2in) seam allowance along the centre front edge. This is adequate for sewing a zip although it doesn't give you much room to play with. If you would prefer a little bit more room for installing the zip, we suggest extending the seam allowance in the area you will be adding the zip to 2cm (3/4in).

HOW TO ADD A BUTTON CLOSURE TO THE FLYNN JACKET

As mentioned at the beginning of this tutorial, the Flynn jacket front pieces meet at the centre front, but do not overlap. We have demonstrated this above (the overlap is just the seam allowance that won’t be there when the garment is sewn).

To create a button closure you will first need to create an overlap, as buttons and buttonholes need to be placed on the centre front of the garment.

Step 1

A Take a piece of pattern paper and tape it behind the centre front opening so you have some room to add the button extension.

Mark in your centre front line (the stitch line on the pattern piece) and extend it up.

Have a think about the size and position of the buttons you would like to use. This is when having the garment in its original form would be helpful as you can lay the buttons on the garment to get an idea of the scale. Alternatively, lay the buttons on the pattern piece. You’ll want to determine where your first button will go and the width of the buttons you plan to use.

B Mark a second line - measuring from the centre front, half the width of your buttons plus 1cm (3/8in). This will allow room for the button, and a little bit of space between the edge of the button and the edge of the opening.

Step 2

A Add seam allowance to the edge. We suggest 1cm (3/8in). We have a tutorial on adding seam allowance here.

B Join the bottom and top of the line back to the original pattern. You want the transition between the new section and the original pattern to be nice and smooth.

Step 3

A Consider what shape you would like the top of the opening to be. You may have it come to an angle as demonstrated in Step 2, or you may prefer a curve which is more in line with the original design.

B Once you have determined the shape, cut off any excess paper and mark button position on your pattern.

When sewing the garment we suggest adding a strip of fusing down the centre front opening to support the buttons and buttonholes.

HOW TO ADD A HOOK & EYE CLOSURE TO THE FLYNN JACKET

The other option is to sew a hook and eye on each side of the opening. This is what I've done on one of my Flynn jackets and it works really well because the jacket can be worn open without the hook and eye being seen, and when it’s closed it doesn’t change the design much. The only thing is that a bit more wind can get in compared to using a zip or buttons! So this is something to keep in mind.

Happy pattern hacking,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.

  • The Hove jacket pattern can be found here.

  • More information about our Curated by ITF sewing subscription can be found here.

  • Our sewing tutorials archive can be found here.

  • We talk about why you should make toiles in this blog post.

  • How to add seam allowance to a pattern - tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 128 - ALTERING A SLEEVE FOR A FORWARD SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT

ALTERING A SLEEVE FOR A FORWARD SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT

THE Q & A SERIES

ALTERING A SLEEVE FOR A FORWARD SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT

Hi there!

I just made a forward shoulder adjustment to the Rennie dress, but I’m not sure what to do with the sleeve. I know the front and back sleeve is symmetrical, but with the alteration I now need the sleeve head to move forward to line up with the shoulder seam. How do I adjust the sleeve to match with the altered pattern?

Hi Amy,

I’m so glad to hear you’re learning new sewing skills using our Rennie dress pattern!

Sometimes it can be difficult to know what the next step is when making pattern adjustments - which is exactly why we came up with our Curated by ITF subscription - what’s better than having professional garment designers you can go to to ask all your sewing questions, after all!?

But knowing that when you make one change to a pattern it usually means there will be other changes to make is definitely half the battle, and the fact that you knew to ask the question is a big indicator that you have a good understanding of the pattern making process. Well done!

And I’m very happy to be able to help you with a solution to your question.

If you aren’t sure what a Forward Shoulder Adjustment is and whether you need one, check out this tutorial first!

HOW TO ALTER A SLEEVE WHEN DOING A FSA

Technical drawing of Rennie sleeve pattern piece.

Step 1

Extend the grainline so it runs through the whole pattern piece.

Technical drawing of Rennie sleeve pattern piece.

Step 2

Draw slash lines from about 1/3 of the way down the front and back sleeve cap (measuring from the grainline), down to a point on the grainline about halfway down.

Technical drawing of Rennie sleeve pattern piece.

Step 3

Cut through the slash lines, creating a hinge where the lines intersect at the grainline.

Refer back to your pattern to see how far forward you moved the shoulder. Mark this point on the front of the sleeve cap - measuring from the slash line towards the underseam (the seam that joins the two sides of the sleeve). As the Rennie dress (in the size A - J size range) is the same sleeve cap for front and back, you will need to mark one of them as the front.

Technical drawing of Rennie sleeve pattern piece.

Step 4

Use the hinge to move the sleeve cap forward until the stitching line meets the line marked in the previous. Tape in place.

Technical drawing of Rennie sleeve pattern piece.

Step 5

Use a scrap of paper to fill the opening at the back sleeve cap.

Technical drawing of Rennie sleeve pattern piece.

Step 6

True the sleeve cap by drawing a smooth curve over the alterations on both the stitch line and the edge of the pattern. You can now see that the centre of the sleeve cap (along with the shoulder notch) is tilted towards the front to match the altered pattern.

Technical drawing of Rennie sleeve pattern piece.

Step 7

Cut off excess paper and re-draw the grainline by extending the original grainline from the lower section of the sleeve up towards the sleeve cap.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Rennie dress pattern - this pattern was released in Issue 12 of our Curated by ITF subscription. It will be available as a standalone pattern in 2023.

  • How to do a forward shoulder adjustment - tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 126 - Removing dress volume to make a slimmer fit

THE Q & A SERIES

Removing dress volume for a slimmer fit

Hi Emily,

I just finished sewing the everyday dress as a toile (old doona) hacked into a tunic with a French seam. I’ve made other patterns of yours (Darlow pants, Collins top and Rushcutter dress), which I’ve really enjoyed.

I have some beautiful hand printed linen with a large scale print and am searching for a pattern. I like the look of the Rennie dress but I need a slimmer fit (no belt), can you comment on fit? 

Margaret

Hi Margaret,

I’m so happy to hear you have been enjoying using our patterns.

You can definitely slim down the shape of the Rennie dress so that you don’t need to wear a belt. The fit of the dress is slightly A-line, so it sounds like a straighter fit is more what you’re looking for. 

What you can do is use the slash and spread technique to reduce volume in the pattern. This technique is often used to add volume to a pattern, but you can also use the same approach to reduce volume from a pattern!

How to use the slash & spread technique on the rennie dress

Pattern illustration of step 1.

Step 1

First, you need to think about where you would like to reduce the volume. Looking at the FRONT pattern piece you can see that the pattern becomes A line in shape from around the waist down. We don’t want to change the fit of the bust, so will draw our slash line from the hem up to the waist on the side seam.

Illustration of step 2.

Step 2

Cut along the slash line from the hem up to the stitch line at the waist. Cut into the seam allowance on the side towards the point you stopped cutting, stopping 1-2mm from the slash line. This will create a small hinge of paper.

Illustration of step 3.

Step 3

Gently slide the cut section across the pattern, removing the desired amount of volume. This is up to you. Remember, this alteration will reduce the finished garment measurement at the hip, so it’s a good idea to work out how much volume you can afford to lose.

Remember, you don’t want the pattern being tight at the hips. You also need ease so you can get the dress on and off, move around and sit. Once you are happy with the amount removed, tape or glue in place.

Illustration of step 4.

Step 4

Re-draw the hem with a smooth line over the alteration. Cut off any excess paper. Repeat process on the back, removing the same amount of volume.

I hope this gives you the confidence to try out the Rennie dress!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • The Rennie dress pattern is currently only available as part of our Curated by ITF sewing subscription. It will be released as a standalone pattern in 2023. More information about Curated by ITF can be found here.

  • How to add volume to a pattern tutorial.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

Q & A series
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REVERSE-WRAP-TOP.png
how-to-draft-lining-pleated-skirt.png

ISSUE 125 - HOW TO DO A FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT

THE Q & A SERIES

HOW TO DO A FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT

Hi there,

I really love the new Rennie dress pattern and I'm considering signing up for your Curated by ITF sewing subscription, but I have a full bust and I don't know if the pattern will fit me. Can you please help me figure this out?

Thanks for your time,

Deb

Hi Deb,

I'm so glad to hear that you love our latest Curated by ITF project, the Rennie dress! We're in love with it ourselves. In fact, I just finished making another one for myself, and can confirm that the beautiful finishes make it such an empowering sew! There's really nothing like the feeling you get after finishing a garment that looks as beautiful on the inside as on the outside. 

When it comes to sewing your own clothes it's really important to understand that a pattern is really just a starting point. As I'm sure you can appreciate, it is impossible to make one pattern fit the myriad of wonderful body shapes and sizes in the world. So we're really proud at In the Folds to be able to provide extra resources to our customers to help you fit our patterns to YOUR particular body. And we can definitely help you figure out what you need to do if you have a full bust.

What is a full bust adjustment?

In sewing terms, an adjustment made to a pattern to accomodate a full or larger bust is called a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA).

HOW DO I KNOW IF I NEED A FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT?

You should always use the pattern fit measurements as your starting point when determining what pattern adjustments need to be made, and the same goes for a Full Bust Adustment. This will give you an understanding of how your body aligns with the sizes the pattern provides. 

In The Folds patterns are drafted for a B cup bust for sizes A-J, and a D-cup bust for sizes G-P. If your bust cup size is larger than the pattern’s intended cup size you may need to do a Full Bust Adjustment or FBA.

You also need to consider the style of the pattern you're making, and how you would like the finished garment to fit. If a pattern has a lot of ease (ie. a loose or generous fit), you may choose not to adjust the pattern. If a pattern is designed to be fitted in the bust, it is more likely that you will need to make an FBA.

If you have already made a toile and everything fits nicely, but feels or looks tight across the bust you may need to make a FBA. This will also apply if there are diagonal lines radiating from the centre front or side seams towards your bust apex point.

Keep in mind that there are cases when your measurements may indicate that you need to do a FBA, but you actually need to alter another part of the pattern, such as the back width.

WORK OUT YOUR SEWING CUP SIZE

Cup sizes in sewing patterns are different to bra sizes and often don't correspond. Figuring out your sewing cup size should be your first step in determining if you need to make a pattern adjustment.

To figure out your sewing cup size, take your HIGH BUST MEASUREMENT (1) and BUST MEASUREMENT (2) and record them in the table above.

Work out the difference between your HIGH BUST MEASUREMENT (1) and BUST MEASUREMENT (2) and add it to the table (3).

If the difference between your HIGH BUST MEASUREMENT and your FULL BUST MEASUREMENT is 2.5cm (1") your bust is an A cup, 5cm (2") it's a B cup, 7.5cm (3") is a C cup, 10cm (4in) is a D cup and so on.

You can remove the dart all together by removing the full difference between the high bust and bust measurement of the pattern. 

Record your bust cup size in the chart (4).

If your cup size is smaller than the pattern’s cup size you may need to do a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) - you can find a tutorial here.

If your cup size is the same or similar to the pattern’s cup size, it’s likely you can leave it as it is.

If your cup size is bigger than the pattern’s cup size, you may need to do an FBA.

Many In The Folds patterns include a lot of design ease, so you may choose not to make the alteration for some styles (for example, I have an A cup size bust and don't bother with an SBA for the Collins top or the Rushcutter dress, but I do for the Acton dress, as it is more fitted).

FIGURE OUT HOW MUCH TO ADD

To make a correct adjustment you now need to work out how much you to add to the pattern to fit your bust cup size.

If you have a C cup bust cup size and your pattern is a B cup, then you will need to add 1 cup size (i.e. 2.5cm / 1in). If you have a D cup bust cup size, you will need to add 2 cup sizes (i.e. 5cm / 2in) and so on. Record the amount you need to add in the table above (5).

This number is the total amount you need to add to the pattern.

The FRONT [1] piece of a pattern is usually cut on the fold or as a pair so you will need to add half of your measurement at (5) to each side of the pattern. Divide (5) from the table by 2 and record it in the table above (6). This is the amount you will be adding to the pattern.

HOW TO DO A FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT

We will use the example of changing a pattern from a B cup to a D cup.

This means we will be adding 5cm (2in) or 2 cup sizes in total. Therefore, half of this - 2.5cm (1in) should be added to the FRONT [1] pattern piece, so that when the piece is cut as a pair or on the fold, the full amount required will be added.

To begin, trace a copy of the FRONT [1] pattern piece. (We suggest you use a copy so that if you make a mistake you always have the original to go back to.) Be sure to include all pattern markings, including grainline, notches and drill hole. It is also important trace off the stitching line (the grey line on the pattern).

Note: If your pattern is a jumpsuit or has design panels/features below the waistline then you may have to cut through the waist section of the pattern.

In the example of a jumpsuit, you will have the bodice and pant sections as two independent pieces. In this case, we would alter the bodice section and then join the other pieces back together.

Step 1

Take a ruler and draw a line through the centre of the dart. Extend the line beyond the tip of the dart. 

This line will be referred to as line A.

Step 2

Mark the apex point on the line. (The BUST APEX POINT is the peak of your bust). On In The Folds B-cup patterns this is normally 2.5cm (1in) beyond the tip of the dart point. On In The Folds D-cup patterns this is normally 5cm (2in) beyond the tip of the dart point.

If you have already found your actual BUST APEX POINT in relation to the pattern, mark this point, rather than the point indicated.

Step 3

Draw a line straight down from the BUST APEX POINT, parallel to the grainline. Extend to the WAIST LINE.

This line will be referred to as line B.

Step 4

Draw a line from the BUST APEX POINT through to the notch on the armhole. 

This line will be referred to as line C.

Step 5

From the LENGTHEN/SHORTEN LINE, cut up line B. When you get to the BUST APEX POINT, turn and cut along line C. 

Slow down as you approach the STITCH LINE. Stop about 1mm from the STITCH LINE. 

Cut in from the seam allowance on the armhole towards the point you stopped cutting on line C. Don’t cut through to the point - leave a small 1-2mm ‘hinge’ of paper that keeps the two parts of the pattern piece intact.

Step 6

Cut along line A from the side seam. Leave a small paper hinge at the BUST APEX POINT.

Step 7

The alteration so far is preparing the pattern to add width to the bust line. You will also need to add some length to the bust. This is because we need more fabric across the bust horizontally, as well as vertically. 

Mark a line 5cm (2in) from the bottom (parallel to the LENGTHEN/SHORTEN LINE) from line B to the CENTRE FRONT. 

We will refer to this as line D.

Step 8

Cut along line D. Mark the top of the piece that you remove so that you don't get confused when you put the pieces back together.

Step 9

Take a piece of pattern paper that is larger than the bodice section. Draw a vertical line in roughly the centre of the paper. We will refer to this as line E. 

By this stage you should know how much width you need to add to the bust (if you don't, refer to the measurements you recorded in the table above). Draw a second line, parallel to the first, the distance you need to add away from the first line. For example, if you need to add a total of 5cm (2in) to the bust, you will draw the line 2.5cm (1in) away from the first line.

This will be line F.

Step 10

Now that you have cut through the lines on the pattern, you will be able to manoeuvre the pattern to add the extra width you need at the bust. 

Carefully place the pattern onto the guidelines you drew in the previous step. To start, align line B on the pattern (the side of line B that is on the dart side) with line F. 

Tape or glue in place (this section of the pattern only).

Step 11

Carefully move the other side of the pattern piece until the other side of line B (closest to the CENTRE FRONT) lines up with line E. When everything is lined up, tape this section of the pattern in place.

Step 12

Take a ruler and extend the CENTRE FRONT line (along the CUT LINE) onto the paper underneath. Do the same for the LENGTHEN/SHORTEN line at the waist. The two lines will intersect.

Step 13

Take the section of the pattern you cut off in Step 8 and line up the corner with the lines marked in Step 12. When it’s in place, tape or glue in place.

Step 14

Draw in the dart arms by joining the dart notches to the original dart point and extending the lines until they intersect. 

Check that this is the correct dart point positioning for your body. Do this by measuring your body and checking the pattern, or by creating a toile. Here’s a video resource from Made to sew on how to measure your bust apex.

Due to the FBA, you may end up with a very large dart and as a result it can be difficult to achieve the shaping you need for the bust. Consider rotating part of the dart to become a second dart. We would suggest a French dart. See this article for more info on rotating darts. 

Reattach the lower section of the pattern if applicable. You will notice the waist measurement has increased. Adjust the bodice to match the lower section.

Making clothes to fit your own body is another very empowering aspect of learning to sew. I hope this tutorial helps you on your sewing adventures, Deb!

Happy sewing!

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Rennie dress pattern is currently only available as part of our Curated by ITF sewing subscription. It will be released as a standalone pattern in 2023. More information about Curated by ITF can be found here.

  • Small Bust Adjustment - tutorial here.

  • Collins top - pattern here.

  • Rushcutter dress - pattern here.

  • Acton dress - pattern here.

  • How to measure your bust apex - tutorial here.

  • How to rotate darts - tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

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ISSUE 124 - Choosing the right seam finish

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THE Q & A SERIES

Choosing the right seam finish

I am just about to start cutting out the Flynn pattern for the first time. I bought the pattern because I loved the style of the jacket, but was so excited to see the steps on seam bindings when I was looking at the instructions. I am new to sewing and have been wanting to make my mom a quilted vest and jacket, but wasn’t sure how to finish the seams. I am hoping that once I finish the Flynn (in linen) that I will have a better idea of how to do that when I make a quilted pattern :-) 

Thank you!

Julianne

Hi Julianne,

I am pleased to hear you will be making the Flynn jacket!

It is a really fun sew with loads of new skills to learn - especially binding seams. This month we’re working on beautiful finishes with our Curated by ITF community and I thought it would be a great opportunity to talk about seam finishes.

When you’re working with a sewing pattern, you’ll see that a number of finishes are referred to. The application of a seam finish will depend on the garment type, suggested fabric and the seam type. Today I'll run you through the most used seam finishes so you have a little reference the next time you’re trying to decide between two different seam finishes.

Different seam finishes and what they're for...

Zig-zag finish

Zig-zag finish is one of the quickest and simplest ways to finish raw edges as you can do it on your regular sewing machine (as long as it has a zig-zag stitch function).

What's a zig-zag finish for?

This finish is best suited to mid-weight, stable fabrics.

On certain light-weight fabrics you run the risk of the fabric being pulled into the teeth or bobbin opening on your machine. To check this you should always do a test run before trying it on your garment. 

One thing to keep in mind is that fabrics can still fray when finished this way, so after washing the garment a few times you might notice the seams not looking as neat as they did originally (although this will depend on the fabric type and the way the seams have been cut).

Turn and straight stitch

One of the simplest ways to finish a seam is to turn back the raw edges of the seam allowance and stitch.

This is a good finish to try if you don't own a serger/overlocker and don't have a zig-zag stitch on your regular sewing machine. It's also a great alternative if you would like a cleaner finish.

What's this finish for?

This finish is suitable for almost all fabrics, although it works better on straight seams, rather than curves. If working with light-weight or sheer fabrics, it is suggested that you consider French seams before choosing this option.

This finish will work best for seams that will be pressed open. Be careful applying this finish to heavy-weight fabrics as it will add bulk to the seams.

More details on this technique can be found here.

French Seams

French seams are great for light to mid-weight fabrics, especially those that are prone to fraying. French seams are also the best choice of finish if you are using a sheer fabric.

French seams will give you a beautiful, clean finish, without the need for an overlocker/serger. Although French seams can be a little time consuming, they are very satisfying and give one of the most beautiful finishes possible.

What's this finish for?

This finish is suitable for light-weight to mid-weight fabrics or sheer fabrics.

Tips on sewing French seams can be found here.

Did you know you can even sew in-seam pockets with French seams? More info on how to do that can be found here.

Flat felled seams

Flat felled seams are one of the strongest seam finishes. The raw edges are enclosed inside the seam (like French seams), but it's pressed flat and stitched to keep the seam nice and flat.

What's this finish for?

Flat felled seams are suitable for hard wearing items such as jeans and jackets. You may also use this finish for making shirts.

Bias bound seams

Bias bound seams are strong and hard wearing. This finish gives you a beautiful, clean finish on the right and wrong side of the seam, by wrapping binding around a raw edge. Bias bound seams also add visual interest to the inside of garments. 

What's this finish for?

Great for seams that will be exposed (such as in unlined jackets), formal wear and also centre back seams (it can be a really nice finish either side of a zip opening).

Hong Kong bind

A Hong Kong binding is strong and hard wearing. This seam finish gives you a beautiful, clean finish and adds visual interest to the inside of garments.

From the right side, a Hong Kong bind looks the same as a bias bound seam. The difference is that a Hong Kong bind is finished differently on the unexposed side of the seam.

What's this finish for?

Great for seams that will be exposed (such as unlined jackets). A Hong Kong bind is an alternative to bias bound seams and is especially suited to thick or bulky fabrics.

It is an ideal finish to use when the back of the seam will not be exposed and you would like to minimise bulk, such as the edge of facings and waistbands.

More details about sewing bias bound seams and Hong Kong binding can be found here.

We’ve shared quite a few posts about bindings in the past, so if you’d like to know more about making your own binding, finishing armholes or necklines, attaching single fold bias binding or attaching double fold binding click on the links to learn more.

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Flynn jacket pattern can be found here.

  • More information about Curated by ITF can be found here.

  • Alternate finishes for the wrap top - tutorial here.

  • Tips for sewing French seams - tutorial here.

  • How to sew in-seam pockets with French seams - tutorial here.

  • How to sew bias bound seams - tutorial here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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ISSUE 123 - Sewing a hem split and French seams

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THE Q & A SERIES

Sewing a hem split and French seams

Firstly thank you so much for creating such patterns that allow a novice to create their own handmade wardrobe and learn the intricate techniques through your instructions and guidance.

My question regarding the everyday dress is that instead of finishing the edges using zigzag stitch (I do not own a serger) and then just hemming it as usual, can I use the french seam method for the sides like you've shown in the wrap top pattern instruction? This way my dress would not fray in wash and will always be neat from inside. I am not sure if it will take up a lot of seam allowance or if it was at all possible due to the side pockets. Hence I wanted to know from your end regarding this. 

Looking forward to hear from you soon. 

Thanks,

Sharvari

Hi Sharvari,

Great to hear you'll be giving the Everyday dress pattern a go and would like to get those insides looking as beautiful as the outside!

This is the perfect question for us to answer this week as we have just released our latest Curated by ITF pattern - the Rennie dress. This pattern (and all the resources we will be sharing throughout the month in our online sewing community) is all about beautiful finishes to elevate your handmade wardrobe.

The reason the side seams for the Everyday dress pattern are sewn with a regular seam (zig-zag or overlocked to finish) is because of the hem splits.

You could do a french seam along the side seam, it’s just when you get to the split you wouldn't be able to press those seams open. When we were designing the Rennie dress this is something we wanted to find a solution for! We wanted both French seams and a hem split, so we got to work figuring out how we could have both… and we did! So in today’s post we will be showing you how to sew French seams when you also have a hem split.

What is a French seam?

French seams are a technique used to finish seam allowances to prevent fraying. We love them at ITF because they give a beautiful, clean finish without the need for an overlocker (serger).

It's a great option if you do not have one of those machines and want a better finish than you can get with a zig-zag stitch. In fact, I'd even go as far as to say, it's far preferable to a regular overlocked or zig-zagged finish and you should use it wherever you can!

French seams are great for light to mid-weight fabrics, especially those that are prone to fraying. French seams are also the best choice of finish if you are using a sheer fabric because it prevents unsightly overlocking being visible through the fabric.

Although French seams are more time consuming than using an overlocker (serger), they are very satisfying and give one of the most beautiful finishes possible.

How to sew a French seam

I'm not going to go into how to sew French seams right now, but you can find a step-by-step of how to sew a French seam in a past issue of the Q&A series here.

How to sew a French seam and a hem split in the Everyday dress

Step 1

With wrong sides together, pin the FRONT [1] to the BACK [2] on both sides. Pin down from the armhole, around the pocket and down to the upper drill hole. Take a ruler and chalk and mark a point 1.2cm (½in) above the upper drill hole on the side seam edge. From this point, draw a diagonal line to the first upper drill hole.

(For these instructions we already have attached the pocket bags. To see how to attach the pockets with French seams read this past issue of the Q&A series.)

Stitch the side seams with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance. Stop stitching when you get to the diagonal guideline and put your needle down. Lift your machine foot and turn towards the drill hole. Put the foot down and stitch along the guideline towards the drill hole. Stop stitching on the drill hole (you may need to walk your last few stitches in) and then back stitch.

Step 2

Clip into the corners between the IN-SEAM POCKET [3] and the body of the dress, before trimming back the whole seam by half.

Snip into the seam allowance towards the upper drill hole at a right angle. Then cut in again, parallel to the line of stitching, removing a small triangle from the seam allowance.

Step 3

Turn the dress inside out and press the seams with right sides together. Use a corner turner to get a nice sharp corner at the bottom of the seam.

Mark the stitch line from the bottom of the IN-SEAM POCKETS [3] down to the lower drill hole that marks the top of the hem split on each side. Pin the seam from the armhole, around the pocket and down to the lower drill hole.

Stitch the seam with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance, sewing down to the lower drill hole. Press the seams and IN-SEAM POCKETS [3] towards the FRONT [1].

You have now finished the side seam with a French seam, but can press the hem split open.

If you’ve been wanting to up your game when it comes to seam finishes, now would be a great time to join Curated by ITF. You can give these techniques a go (along with many more) along with the support of our incredible online community, and our ITF team are available to answer any questions you might have!

Happy sewing,

Emily

RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE

  • Everyday dress pattern can be found here.

  • More information about Curated by ITF can be found here.

  • Rennie dress pattern can be found here.

  • Tips for sewing French seams - tutorial can be found here.

  • How to sew in-seam pockets with French seams - tutorial can be found here.

For more issues of the Q & A series, you can check out the archive here.

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING

MORE POSTS IN THE SERIES

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